Rear axel replacement cost... some things I'm just not going to do myself...

A while ago I started a thread related to an increasingly annoying howling noise coming from the aft side of my driveline. I finally got it diagnosed by some folks with the appropriate equipment and it turns out it's the rear differential. It's bad.

I have the 3.72 ratio...

These guys had about 10 3.72 used diffs on used driveshafts around. In situations like these they send the entire assembly to a specialist they use to have it cleaned, inspected, and if needed and able to be rebuilt, rebuilt..

The cost is $1,200 plus $300 labor so $1,500 out the door. I get a two year warranty on labor and the parts.

Seems pretty fair but I don't have experience in this area and thought I'd put it out to the sprinter collective.

Thanks!

Also... theoretically, if I was to drain the rear diff fluid I should see metal shavings if it is indeed bad, correct?

vanski said:

Also... theoretically, if I was to drain the rear diff fluid I should see metal shavings if it is indeed bad, correct?

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I don't know about the replacement, but draining the rear diff is easier than changing the oil, so it might be worth it just to see what you see/learn. There's one drain bolt on the bottom/side of the diff. I think its a big hex nut. Gear oil smells really bad, so don't be surprised. Just let it drain into a catch pan, and then re-fill from the rubber fill plug at the top. I used Mobil 1 75W-90. You can get that and a long mouth funnel for $10 at most auto shops. Whole job took 20 minutes.

Yes, metal shavings would be a bad sign. You could probably take the ten bolts off the diff and remove the rear half of the housing and inspect the carrier gears. I don't exactly know what to say to look for, but a visual inspection is always informative.


Dan

danpaul000 said:

I don't know about the replacement, but draining the rear diff is easier than changing the oil, so it might be worth it just to see what you see/learn. There's one drain bolt on the bottom/side of the diff. I think its a big hex nut. Gear oil smells really bad, so don't be surprised. Just let it drain into a catch pan, and then re-fill from the rubber fill plug at the top. I used Mobil 1 75W-90. You can get that and a long mouth funnel for $10 at most auto shops. Whole job took 20 minutes.

Yes, metal shavings would be a bad sign. You could probably take the ten bolts off the diff and remove the rear half of the housing and inspect the carrier gears. I don't exactly know what to say to look for, but a visual inspection is always informative.


Dan

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Thanks Dan. Yes, I've done a rear diff fluid change. easy peasy. I just don't know what I'm looking for or various spots which could fail. I do know noise was coming from the rear diff and not the wheel bearings and definitely not the center carrier bearing (drive shaft compared to axle).

Opening the pumpkin isn't a bad idea to get a good view of what's going on in there. I might do that prior to opening my wallet up.

If the oil is fairly clean, you may just need new bearings. The pinion bearing is a common noise maker. The bearings can be changed by any competent shop. The diff and gears generally do not need replaced in this scenario.

Don't condemn the hard parts until you inspect, as bearing noise doesn't mean gears and shafts are damaged.

I had noisy rear end caused by worn 4 bearings and got them changed and noise was no more

I'd definitely take off the differential cover to look inside before spending over $1k (unless the shop did that already). A little tube of RTV to close it back up afterwards. (You'd change the gasket if it was a long-term fix, but to just look inside after draining the oil, you'll be fine.

Midwestdrifter said:

If the oil is fairly clean, you may just need new bearings. The pinion bearing is a common noise maker. The bearings can be changed by any competent shop. The diff and gears generally do not need replaced in this scenario.

Don't condemn the hard parts until you inspect, as bearing noise doesn't mean gears and shafts are damaged.

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MWD: As usual, thank you very much for providing great info to lead me down an alternative path... your contributions here are greatly appreciated. I've been looking for a good thread to help diagnose this area but can't find one. AP put together this thread, but in quickly looking it over this is for the wheel bearings. My wheel bearings are good. I found this thread regarding pinion bearing, but I'm pretty sure it's not the pinion bearing because when I recently removed my drive line my pinion bearing didn't show this kind of play (link is from previous thread).

Pardon me as I'm ramping up.. Just haven't worked in this area yet... So aren't there carrier bearings on the outside of the diff which can fail.. Perhaps as seen in the attached picture.

Gaspiping Sprinter said:

I had noisy rear end caused by worn 4 bearings and got them changed and noise was no more

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Thanks GS.. Which 4 bearings did you replace?

nutterbutter said:

I'd definitely take off the differential cover to look inside before spending over $1k (unless the shop did that already). A little tube of RTV to close it back up afterwards. (You'd change the gasket if it was a long-term fix, but to just look inside after draining the oil, you'll be fine.

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Thanks NB! Yes, a little RTV goes a long way..

2 As shown in the picture with red circles + 2 more between Carrier and Driveshaft

Gaspiping Sprinter said:

2 As shown in the picture with red circles + 2 more between Carrier and Driveshaft

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GS: Very helpful! So in this image (not a sprinter but still very useful) you replaced items 13 (carrier bearings) and 20 (axle bearings)

I'd like to do this myself but wondering if there are special and expensive tools required... I could hoist the van up via the tree that makes my shade

I have not done this on a sprinter. The following is general for semi floating axles. Normally the bearings can be replaced without special tools. It is time consuming though. Both axle half shafts need to be partially withdrawn, and the pinion nut removed. The diff cage/ring gear is rotated or removed, and the bearings replaced. There are usually one bearing for each side of the cage/shaft and two on the pinion shaft.

The pinion offset is critical, and is established by a spacer. A torque wrench must be used.

if you want to shop for a used axle, swapping them isn't all that bad.

I put a whole assembly under my 06 long and tall in about four hours taking my time and plodding along. four nuts at the axle/spring joint, four bolts at the driveshaft, four bolts/nuts at the shocks and swaybar links, two brake lines, take the ebrake balancer off the body, and cut the wiring. install is the opposite of removal.

So I have some strange noises as well and used gear component I check the interference pattern, res raking everything is perfect but I hear the noises, read somewhere it could be a sheared axel?? Going on 2 weeks scratching my head on what to do, neighbor says put it together and let it fail which is what I am think at this point. Please review YouTube short videos I posted and advise if you have the experience to. Thank you

Pasieka said:

So I have some strange noises as well and used gear component I check the interference pattern, res raking everything is perfect but I hear the noises, read somewhere it could be a sheared axel?? Going on 2 weeks scratching my head on what to do, neighbor says put it together and let it fail which is what I am think at this point. Please review YouTube short videos I posted and advise if you have the experience to. Thank you

2002-2006 dodge sprinter differential makes a clicking noise when coast from 15 miles per hour why?

youtube.com

Differential noises on a 2002-2007 dodge Mercedes sprinter are these abnormal?

youtube.com

Is this an acceptable transmission clicking play noise on a 2002-2007 2005 Dodge sprinter?

youtube.com

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First, please don't post in multiple threads about the same issue, we'll all see if you post in one thread. It also may be a good thing to start your own thread.

It is very hard to hear what noise you're talking about with how much is going on in that video, all of the switching microphones, talking, etc. I can't pick out what I'm supposed to be listening to.

Are there any metal shavings in the oil? Does the sound occur always, or is it worse when you turn left or right? Can you describe the noise? Is there a video where it's just driving with one microphone and as little background noise as possible?

Rear axle sounds can also be bad wheel bearings. You may want to just take it to a good rear end shop if you have one, they'll know in seconds.

Zundfolge said:

Rear axle sounds can also be bad wheel bearings. You may want to just take it to a good rear end shop if you have one, they'll know in seconds.

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I second this. They work on rear ends all day and have done thousands of them. They listen to them first, then they rebuild them, so they know what sounds go with what was worn out. There is no substitute for experience in a case like this.

Regards,

Mark

re-did my rear brakes, including parking shoes, and the noises went away

psychoboy said:

if you want to shop for a used axle, swapping them isn't all that bad.

I put a whole assembly under my 06 long and tall in about four hours taking my time and plodding along. four nuts at the axle/spring joint, four bolts at the driveshaft, four bolts/nuts at the shocks and swaybar links, two brake lines, take the ebrake balancer off the body, and cut the wiring. install is the opposite of removal.

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Which wiring did you cut? Did you have a hard time with brake lines or ebrake cables, bleeding brakes?

Can anyone recommend a brake bleeder and tool to replace rear wheel bearings...

I like this pressure bleeder:


A two way scanner can activate the ABS for extreme bleeding. The Thinkdiag claims to do it.

Regards,

Mark