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teamtarkio
04-03-2009, 07:42 PM
Hi, I'm new to the Forum but very excited to find ya'll.
Yes I have a problem with my 04 high roof 140.
It started a few days ago, I'll crank it up it runs fine, even rev it up to 3500rpms, everything is normal. Once I get going for a few, it stops allowing me to get over 2600rpms. No warning lights light up
That makes a slow sprinter. I'm guessing a bad sensor somewhere.
Any ideas??

TimJuhl
04-03-2009, 09:34 PM
Do a search of "power loss" and a lot of info will show up. Most commonly the problem seems to be a failed turbo resonator which causes the vehicle to go into "limp home" mode. If you have a Scangauge or code reader that might point you towards the problem as well.

Tim

Pascal
04-11-2009, 11:17 PM
Hi,

I just got the same thing today (again). Lost of power, boost down to minimum, load to max. I was going up hill and it happened. This happened few times on and off. I did change the resonator and I have the Q5 model. I stopped the engine and everything went back to normal. Wonder if it is a sensor or the little gasket from the resonator popping slightly out and let escape the pressure. Toop a picture of the scan gauge. Oh, and there is no code or engine light on. Once I had a code and the engine light was on, then i reset it and everything was fine.

Aqua Puttana
04-12-2009, 12:19 AM
The turbo resonator is just one component. Clamps can come loose, the hoses can split, but look OK until deformed (crushed down or squashed by hand) to show where the crack is. As Tim said, do a search. Hope this does some good. AP

blower
04-12-2009, 09:38 AM
i had a very similar power loss problem , it turned out the intercooler had split at the seems , not obvious untill removed ,

maxextz
04-12-2009, 02:16 PM
i had that limp home type thing happen to me but it was a dirty fuel filter:rolleyes:

BaywoodBill
04-12-2009, 11:29 PM
Hi teamtarko..... have you found anything wrong?

rvdriverca
04-13-2009, 01:45 AM
Is the intake air temperature on the scangauge near the actual outside temperature.

Pascal
04-13-2009, 07:02 AM
I noticed that the air temp on the intake is never the same has the air temp outside when driving. At idle the outside air temp is the same as the intake air temp but as soon as you drive it changes. The more the load increases and the more the air intake temp increases. This is from the scan gauge reading.

autostaretx
04-13-2009, 04:28 PM
The IAT is reading the air temperature -just- before it goes into the cylinders.
After the Turbocharger (which heats it up by the action of compression),
after the Intercooler (which cools it back down a bit).

So you can expect it to be a few degrees above ambient (outside), with the "few" being affected by the turbo.
But it probably would not exceed (say) 50 F above ambient unless you were fully loaded and racing up Pike's Peak.
It should defintely not be saying 165 F on a 40 F day one minute after starting. (a tale from Real Life(tm)).

--dick

Pascal
04-18-2009, 12:19 AM
I replaced the intake air sensor today and so far it is running well. When I removed the old sensor, it was covered with oil and very very dirty/greasy. Maybe that was the problem.... In the morning I was towing my trailer and I had again a lost of power and this time a code came up (P0299) I did a reset and everything went back to normal. I hope the new sensor took care of this problem.

About the temperature in the intake. I watched it today with the scan gauge and it did go up to 120 degree when under 90% load going up a hill.

autostaretx
04-18-2009, 05:38 AM
up to 120 F
Yes, but what was the "ambient" temp?
(next time, tap the clock button to display ambient, and aim the camera a little higher...)
I -think- that the ECU can also read the ambient temp, and complains if the IAT and the ambient don't correlate properly
(it knows how much boost it's asking for, so if it's not boosting and sees a high IAT compared to ambient, it may take that into account)

good luck
--dick

mean_in_green
04-18-2009, 09:39 AM
Interestingly not everyone has the ambient temp sensor with display feature, just those with aircon.

Pascal
04-18-2009, 02:12 PM
Here is the original picture.

autostaretx
04-18-2009, 03:29 PM
MIG wrote: Interestingly not everyone has the ambient temp sensor with display feature, just those with aircon.

Fascinating.. Since (all?) retail Sprinters in the US have AirCon, the manuals don't mention that the ambient sensor might be an option.
-----

But, back to the question: given a starting point of 74 F, you're only seeing a rise of 35 F, with a doubling of pressure.
I don't think that's excessive ... especially since you're pumping 72 liters per second (80mph, 3200 rpm, 2.7 L, 4-stroke) through the system at the moment the photo was taken (as he's moving down the road at 117 feet per second...:eek:).

--dick

Pascal
04-18-2009, 09:12 PM
I never thought the intake temp would rise that high . Back to the lost of power . Since I changed the intake temp sensor, the truck is really running better. :bounce:

rvdriverca
04-18-2009, 09:30 PM
Pascal, your welcome. do like I do have one spare in the glove box. they are less $30. . http://europarts-sd.com/ plus shipping. I just order 2 more.

Pascal
04-19-2009, 02:18 AM
:clapping: I just did it. I bought them from europarts as well :rad:

Jrmorgan
04-20-2009, 02:13 AM
Are we under attack? There a computer virus in our systems? I asked for help in anther thread that I posted about engine power lose. The first time the engine went into limp mode, 2500 rpm max slow as hell. Posted my problem. Got an answer about maybe starting too fast before the computer was fully up. restarted the truck and all was well.
Today took the truck out shifting was very strange, winding out in the gears. lose of power going up a hill. checked scan gauge, no code. a little time later engine light comes on. Check for a code on Scan got the PO299. Killed the truck at a light, and restarted. RPM went up when I hit gas, no "limp Mode". When into gear and no real power like turbo is gone. Parked in a Home depot did my business, started truck went home. Engine still on laboring up hills, but was able to hit 55 on flats and down hill. So I was playing with scan gauge and cleared the code. Engine light goes out feels like full power is back but shifting seems still off.
Any ideas would be helpful. Seems computer, senor, related? From reading here no one has a full understanding of this Code PO299 deal.
Thanks as always for your great help guys!
- John

Pascal
04-20-2009, 02:50 AM
John

I had the same code P0299. I changed the resonator (Q5) and it did not do anything. The code was different at that time but I still had the same problem and I was losing power. I did not get a code or engine light but once in a while i got the same code as you got. Last time it happened I was pulling my trailer. Then few days ago, I change the intake air sensor and the truck got its full power back. My sensor was extremely dirty and cover with oil, very nasty. Now it is awesome and i get my max speed even going up hills (like before).
Try the intake temp sensor. I keep a spare one now in my glove box. Good luck

Pascal

Jrmorgan
04-20-2009, 03:26 AM
PAscal, thanks for replying. I have a real dumb question, where is this sencor located? you have a pic you can post?

I will let you know how it works out, thanks a million.

John
.

Pascal
04-20-2009, 03:13 PM
John,

Here are few pictures, I hope this can help. First picture is the used sensor. Second picture is to show you the location. Facing the truck, on the battery side. Third picture, The sensor is located on the black hose. It is the one with the "H" shape. Disconnect the wire first, then you can squeeze the "H" part of the sensor and you pull it out. Insert the new one then connect the wire back to it.
Note, the first time I was not careful and the connector was not properly inserted into the sensor. On the scan gauge, I had a "-" sign in front of the temp. i switched the connector the right way and everything was fine.

Jrmorgan
04-20-2009, 08:17 PM
Hey Pascal, I found it!!!! The sensor seemed to have a mist of oil all over it. Cleaned with brake cleaner.
12724

Took it for a test drive, truck lost power again. Same code came up. I will try a new sensor. I took out old one and it was mised with oil again. Maybe oil seal in turbo is gone?

- John

Jrmorgan
04-21-2009, 04:42 AM
OK put new Air intake sensor, old part number 0061532028. There is a new number, this from AMB. A000 542 28 18. Installed it and took truck for a ride. Reading other posts I looked for MAP reading from scan gauge two. When working well at idle 680 rpm MAP was 14.9, at peck shift rpm it hit 25.7, then lost of power. MAP was barely above 14.5. Shut down, wait a few minutes, restart engine ran normal till engine light came on. The noticed lots of smoke out back. as I drove cleared code PO299 engine ran well. Truck just doesn't seem to shift right. Should be shifting around 3,000 seems not to hit that usually going over and shifting.

To add to this I just found out the dealer in Thousand Oaks Dodge, does not service Sprinters anymore. Damn this all can't be happening.

I need help my friends.

John

mean_in_green
04-21-2009, 08:05 AM
John, you're experiencing classic T1Nisms: very likely a trivial fault which is sending you over the edge?!

If this part isn't found to be the cause have a read of this (http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3075) post to start you off on some other likely culprits.

Simon

autostaretx
04-21-2009, 03:05 PM
OK... you've swapped out the IAT .. what does the scangauge -now- say that IAT is reporting, both cold (just after starting, at idle) and hot (under load, like your previous 140 F)?
The 140 F should also drop back down to near-outside-air temperature (within 10 degrees) when you go back to idle.

When i swapped my 3rd IAT (first non-warranty), i went and -measured- what the old and new one were doing.

Even after cleaning, the old one was still way out of range (under 1000 ohms at 70F, where the new one was 6000 ohms).
Hitting it with a heat gun dropped the new one to about 5000 ohms a bit over 100F, and the old one to below 600 ohms.

These devices lower their resistance as they get warmer, so anything under 4000 ohms at 70 F is a faulty part.
Most run-of-the-mill thermistors are rated at 5000 ohms at 20 C (68F). The thermistor in the IAT is rated at 6000 ohms at 20 C.
This makes it difficult to replace it with a "standard electronics part".
The nearest Seimens (the brand of the entire assembly) thermistor i could find is not commonly available in the US.

But given that, you can measure both the old and new IAT with an ohmmeter to get some idea of their ranges.
My old one was also oil-soaked (after a year in service).

good luck
--dick

TimJuhl
04-21-2009, 04:29 PM
This may be way off but others have reported that the symptoms of engine surge, stall, loss of power coupled with bursts of black smoke upon acceleration and going into limp home mode may be caused by a split found in hose connected to turbo resonator (replace hose #5120147AA )

Good luck!
Tim

Jrmorgan
04-21-2009, 09:47 PM
Hey, Tim thanks for the heads up. I checked the hoses. On my 06 /3500 I don't have a long cross over rubber hose as in the diagram. I have three short hoses, one coming off the resonator into the inter cooler and the next coming off the inter cooler to a metal unit that has the Air Temp. then from the metal unit another hose goes into the air intake.
I couldn't see a crack as all the hoses seemed soft, not brittle.
I do however see oil blow by from the base of the resonator. Is this the dreaded cracking I've read about?
Here is a pic of what I see. seems the lower haft is not seated in all the way. the right side is but the left side seems off. Seems like the blow-by is coming from there. If so should I replace this with a new plastic one, or would you all recommend the metal after-market one?
12736

Thanks again for all your help.

TimJuhl
04-21-2009, 10:50 PM
If there appears to be oil along the seam of your turbo resonator then I would suspect that it had failed. About the only way to tell for sure would be to swap it out. There is a lot of opinion on whether to go to the metal or stay with the plastic unit. I've never had one fail but my personal choice would probably be to replace it with an OEM unit (Q5).

For what it is worth, my research has shown that the three most common causes of the symptoms you describe (I've been trying to create a database) are:
1.) Turbo resonator failure - make sure you replace with a Q5 or metal version.
2.) Split hose from the turbo
3.) Faulty Intake Air Sensor

If anyone has any more to add to the list please let me know.

Tim

rlent
04-21-2009, 11:41 PM
2.) Split hose to the turbo
Should this be "split hose from the turbo" ..... rather than "to the turbo" ?

TimJuhl
04-22-2009, 02:43 AM
rlent is of course correct... only the hoses carrying pressurized air to the intake would be an issue. Me not always rite so good.

Looking at the parts drawing is sent in an earlier post I saw something that just didn't look right. I believe that the drawing shows the turbo resonator in the position actually occupied by the "elephant trunk" of the intake manifold. The turbo resonator is actually connected to the turbo with it's output connected to the charge air cooler (follow the red arrow.)

The drawing is taken from the 06 parts manual and otherwise corresponds with my 06 3500.

The yellow hose (5120147AA) has been identified as sometimes being the source of air leaks but all of the hoses and clamps are potential sources.
The blue sensor is the aforementioned Intake Air Sensor.
The green device is the much maligned turbo resonator of course.

Tim Juhl

Pascal
04-22-2009, 03:43 AM
I would swap the resonator for a Q5 and see:thinking:
If you see oil around the resonator and you get only 25 MAP on your scan gauge, then I would think you have a leak somewhere between the turbo and the intake.

Good luck luck John

Pascal

Pascal
04-23-2009, 10:18 PM
Today , I had one power loss on my way to work and one on my way back home. So I am guessing there is something more to it and it's not only the intake air sensor and the resonator. What else could it be :thinking:

Jrmorgan
04-23-2009, 11:16 PM
Pascal, I am waiting for the Resonator eliminator to be delivered. I can't remember is you have a Scan Gauge II. With your helpful comments and others, plus the great abundance of info on this site, I have figured out that the code I got off my Scan which is PO 299 which means Turbo boost lose. That coupled to blow by around the known area of the resonator makes me feel certain that the badly designed resonator failed on my truck. I did complain about the blow by because the intake air sensor has a fine coating of oil. Again looking through this web site there was enough information to tell me that the crank case is vented into down wind side of the turbo that is part of the pollution control system designed into this vehicle. So the oil is normal. Too bad there isn't a way to do a low pressure test of the whole intake to see if there is a air leak. I mean after the turbo and just before the intake to the engine.
Pascal as you may or may not know, every time to kill the engine the computer resets so the engine starts and runs normal. If after a little time your problem comes back, are you driving the engine hard? Causing more turbo boost? I have put together in my mind what I was doing, and I remember kicking the truck hard to get up the Baldwin Hills on La Cienega and that might have caused the Resonator to fail.
Another area to look at plus the fact a few others have stated that the wire bundles specially the one around the battery seems to rub against some metal causing shorts. I learned from personal experience then I insulated the roof and installing an aluminum skin ceiling panel I drilled through a wire that runs on top of the side door frame. This cause the engine light to come on and was not able to start the engine. Seems too me the Computer in these darn trucks are way too controlling of the whole system. In a few posts I've read that some guys have had their computers reconfigured or maybe there is an unofficial firmware update. Hoping others reading this can share their insight. I will up date after I get the new part and install and test drive.

Pascal
04-24-2009, 04:08 AM
John.
This morning, when I lost power, I was just pulling out of my driveway. Then, when I came back from work I was driving with the cruise control at 60 mph. The light engine rarely comes on when this happen. I do have the scan gauge II and if the engine light comes on, Then I can reset it and everything goes back to normal. If the light does not come on, then I have to turn the engine off and restart it. I did replace the resonator with the Q5 model six months ago. I don't think I have an air leak in the system because I get the full boost (about 33.7 max for few seconds, from the scan gauge ). The intake air temp is ok and I watch it too.
It has to be a sensor, a short cut somewhere, software :hmmm: Ohhh, I do get the same code P0299.
I noticed that, if you unplug the intake air temp or you plug it the wrong way, you get the "lost power effect" and no engine light. I checked my previous intake air sensor for the resistance and I get 5800 ohms. Not sure where to look :cry:

Jrmorgan
04-25-2009, 06:03 PM
Pascal,
Friday night I installed the resonator eliminator. Took the truck on a test drive up the Baldwin Hill road then onto the 405, then the 20 back home. As of right now the whole deal is back to "normal" This Morning I took a look at the factory Resonator. even though my truck is registered as an 06. the build date is 11/5. ( I'm guessing my truck is out of warranty) The Resonator is a Q4.
.12816
As you can see it is half way coming apart. With a gentle push wish a screwdriver tip you can open it up half way. As many others have noted, a very very bad design.

I will run the truck again today to confirm that all is well.

I did reinstall the original Temp sensor back in the truck.

Pascal I would take the factory Resonator off your truck and look at it closely. Look closely at the hoses. Might even look at the snap fitting of the the Air Temp sensor. Unless you had a failure of the turbo, it has to be a leak in the intake system.

As far as the test drive went, I did from time ti time hear a little high pitch whine, that I am more than happy to live with. The resonator eliminator is a very thick well made item. If this solves my problem, I ca't say enough about replacing the plastic crap I had.

- John

P.S. I bought the eliminator from the James F. Riordan Company, didn't say I was part of this web site, paid full price, $160.00 plus. Shipping and CA tax. Don't know if the company gives us a price break. Doesn't matter, this works, can't fail, I'd pay more for the Peace of mind....

Pascal
04-25-2009, 06:18 PM
John,

I just ordered the aluminum resonator. I had again two power failures today. When I get the aluminum resonator, then I will test my old one (Q5) with my air compressor. Make a plug on both sides and put it under pressure with compressed air until it fails.

TimJuhl
04-25-2009, 06:51 PM
John,
My 06 has a build date of 11/5 but was first sold in 11/06. In the interim I suppose it made the trip across the Atlantic and was assembled stateside. The warranty began when it was sold, not built.

I believe the resonator is covered under the Emission control system warranty, which doesn't matter if the eliminator does the job.

I suspect my 06 had it's resonator changed at some point inasmuch as it is a Q5.

Tim

SewerRatz
04-27-2009, 03:16 AM
My 2004 2500 high roof just started losing power as well. When I start the truck and first take off I can hear a slightly louder than normal exhaust note I would call it then after a minute of this the sound goes away and I can not get my rpms over 2800, and getting to speed is real slow I eventually can get it up to 60 mph just takes forever. There is no check engine light at all. Upon investigating I notice a slice mark on the hose that is attached to the turbo resonator, I assume it got sliced when the belt broke apart and was whipping around the engine compartment.

Jrmorgan
04-27-2009, 03:55 AM
Pascal
be careful when you pressure test the Turbo resonator. I don't know what the Scan Gauge is telling me in MAP. I don't know if this pressure reading is P.S.I. When my truck is running the high end reading is 31.5, but settles down to 15. I'm sure someone here can tell us what the Map is displaying. So don't pressure test at 100 lbs PSI. to be fair to see if your resonator is the part that is failing. Look closely at the hoses if the Eliminator is installed and you still have the problem. I did install new hose clamps what had the gearing cut though as Resonator people say to do.

talkinghorse43
04-27-2009, 02:35 PM
Pascal
be careful when you pressure test the Turbo resonator. I don't know what the Scan Gauge is telling me in MAP. I don't know if this pressure reading is P.S.I. When my truck is running the high end reading is 31.5, but settles down to 15. I'm sure someone here can tell us what the Map is displaying. So don't pressure test at 100 lbs PSI. to be fair to see if your resonator is the part that is failing. Look closely at the hoses if the Eliminator is installed and you still have the problem. I did install new hose clamps what had the gearing cut though as Resonator people say to do.


It's giving you absolute pressure. Just subtract 15 and you'll get the pressure you would read with a normal pressure gauge.

rlent
04-27-2009, 10:53 PM
Pascal
be careful when you pressure test the Turbo resonator. So don't pressure test at 100 lbs PSI. to be fair to see if your resonator is the part that is failing.

Yeah .... probably no more than 30 psi at most .....

SewerRatz
04-27-2009, 11:29 PM
Well here is the hose that was giving me my troubles.

Jrmorgan
04-28-2009, 02:09 AM
Damn SewerRatz, thats one hell of a cut. Did you figure out how it happened?

Aqua Puttana
04-28-2009, 02:22 AM
Yeah .... probably no more than 30 psi at most .....
rlent,
I believe the manual I saw said 20 psi for the test, but 30 probably isn't going to hurt anything. AP

SewerRatz,
Thanks for the picture. No dash trouble lights at any time? It kinda surprises me that there isn't a LHM light to let us know it has happened, but that sure seems to be the case. AP

SewerRatz
04-28-2009, 02:39 AM
Damn SewerRatz, thats one hell of a cut. Did you figure out how it happened?

I think when my belt let loose it was slapping away at all sorts of stuff under the hood, that is the only thing I can think of that may of weaken the hose. Other than that I have no clue what would of caused that. When I went to the dealer I told him I needed a new resonator hose, he did not even look it up just went in back and handed it to me and told me 18 bucks. I figured with my van reaching 89k Miles I might as well change out the Resonator as well with the Q5, so he grabbed one of them of the shelf right off too. It cost only 40 bucks. So 58 bucks and piece of mind.

rlent,
I believe the manual I saw said 20 psi for the test, but 30 probably isn't going to hurt anything. AP

SewerRatz,
Thanks for the picture. No dash trouble lights at any time? It kinda surprises me that there isn't a LHM light to let us know it has happened, but that sure seems to be the case. AP

No trouble lights at all, just a loss of power. But before the loss of power there was a louder than normal noise coming from the engine compartment.

Pascal
04-28-2009, 10:55 PM
Hi everyone,

well my power lost is fixed :bounce:
Here are few pictures. I had a big gash in the hose. I bought a new hose from the dealer and then I went back home and installed it. I had to remove the grille and the driver side headlight. then I removed the clamps and install the new hose. It was about one hour overall and now I have all the power back. MAP is now 35.2 max for few second.
Thank you for all your help.

Pascal

kalrashidy
04-29-2009, 12:36 AM
hi every one
i have problem
i got the last year its used .2004 2.7 L . the problem is in the winter is ok but in the summer or when the weather is hot its start no problem when the guage goes 180f the idle goes up over 1 rpm like eccelerate by itself
i dont what is the problem please if some body know help me
thanks.

TimJuhl
04-29-2009, 01:05 AM
Referring back to the posts about intake hose failures it looks like a roll of radiator hose repair tape or the like would be a good addition to the emergency tool kit. On my recent trip to the SW US I was seldom near a Sprinter dealer.

Tim

Jrmorgan
04-29-2009, 07:32 PM
Tim I never been a Sprinter dealer lol. Think I will buy some of that Hose tape.

Pascal glad you found the problem. Seems it was right there all the time. Have you figured out how the hose got cut?

I drove my truck hard yesterday, no problems at all. I do hear noise from Turbo without the Turbo Resonator. And that is only cause I don't have the radio on as I'm listening to the engine to make sure all is working well. With the radio cranked, the only engine noise I hear and I think its another Sprinter gremlin is the electric fan comes on when I labor the engine. Funny thing is, I hear it at higher speeds, above 50 MPH, you'd think it would only come on at low speeds as there isn't enough air passing through the radiator.

I can live with that I guess.
That is unless you all think I do have a problem,

- John

talkinghorse43
04-29-2009, 09:48 PM
hi every one
i have problem
i got the last year its used .2004 2.7 L . the problem is in the winter is ok but in the summer or when the weather is hot its start no problem when the guage goes 180f the idle goes up over 1 rpm like eccelerate by itself
i dont what is the problem please if some body know help me
thanks.

ECM will raise idle rpm under certain conditions (temp, altitude). Don't think that 180F is high enough to do that though.

Pascal
04-29-2009, 11:27 PM
John,

I don't know why the hose was cracked. But I am glad it is fixed. I did order the aluminum resonator and I am going to keep it as a spare part for when the plastic one will fail. Today was a hot day and I just found out that the AC is not working :idunno: Well I guess there is always something to work on :laughing:

TimJuhl
04-30-2009, 01:53 AM
John,
On warmer days my fan turns on and off when I'm driving at freeway speeds. When the coolant temp hits a certain point the fan kicks on and drops the temp. I seldom notice it when just driving 55.

Tim

spagthorpe
06-23-2009, 08:51 AM
Chalk up another P0299 victim. Exact same symptoms as Pascal. Sometimes an engine light, mostly not. I did notice that it would always happen when the engine load got maxed out. Thankfully I had my Scangauge in a box in the back, and was able to both reset the engine light when it came on, read the code, and it also was invaluable for getting home.

As long as I drove, keeping the LOD value, I'm assuming a percentage, in the low 70s, I was ok. If I crossed into the 80s, there was a good chance it would then shoot up to 99, and the power loss occured. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to use the cruise control at all in 400 miles, because the CC thinks nothing of putting a max load on the engine in the name of maintaining speed on a grade. Had I not been able to monitor that, and downshift to 4th when the load got too high, I would have had to make very frequent stops over the drive. As it was, I probably only had to reset or restart about eight times total.

At least I have a good selection of things to look for tomorrow. Great thread!

spagthorpe
06-23-2009, 11:13 PM
Luckily had a dealer about 40-miles from here with a resonator. I had pulled the sensor, and though it's possible it could be bad, it was completely clean and looked fine. The Q3 resonator though, did show some seperation like shown in some other photos on here. I guess it was borderline maybe, and rather than a complete failure, only lost pressure under a certain load. I replaced with a Q5, and will test it tonight when there is less traffic on the highway. It'll be cooler too, since I still don't have a working AC system.

irsa76
07-02-2009, 11:25 AM
My Fedex 313 split the hose a couple of weeks ago, I've been on leave so wasn't aware of the problem. Lots of whooshing noise then limphome mode. Found the hose from intercooler to intake manifold split on the inside, traced a heap of oil to the split so I suspect the turbo is gone as well. Taped the the split with a couple of meters of duct tape to get through the week until it goes into the dealer next week.

macsix
08-23-2009, 12:23 AM
Mine split the hose on the bottom side leading into the EGR valve, could not feel it. Put up with the power loss for a few days before I took it off, and was very surprised that I could not feel it. It was making a hissing noise like a restricted exhaust. New hose from dealer, in stock, and all is well.

John the sprinter mech
09-24-2009, 05:43 PM
Hope Im not too late to help with this one.

Turbo Boot Replacement

This is hands down the most frequent repair I perform on T1N sprinters. any time these symptoms show up with a P0299 code its the first place I check. Usually, its the culprit. In fact, only one other time has it been something else. (TURBO) Its such a common problem that I stock several of these "boots".

This procedure is as easy as replacing a radiator hose (without the coolant mess). When you find the "slice" in the hose grab a flat blade screwdriver and a T50 torx. These should be the only tools you will need. Its a dirty job, but if you diy youll save some coin at the dealer.

John

Aqua Puttana
09-24-2009, 10:33 PM
John,
Is there any consistency with mileage or time for this failure? I guess what I'm asking is whether there is a mileage or time period that as with a starting battery, you just know it's gonna fail....... the question is not if, but sooner or later. Thanks. AP/vic
Hope Im not too late to help with this one.

Turbo Boot Replacement

This is hands down the most frequent repair I perform on T1N sprinters. any time these symptoms show up with a P0299 code its the first place I check. Usually, its the culprit. In fact, only one other time has it been something else. (TURBO) Its such a common problem that I stock several of these "boots".

This procedure is as easy as replacing a radiator hose (without the coolant mess). When you find the "slice" in the hose grab a flat blade screwdriver and a T50 torx. These should be the only tools you will need. Its a dirty job, but if you diy youll save some coin at the dealer.

John

sprintguy
09-25-2009, 03:59 AM
Ahh yes, That Charge air hose splitting is so common, we keep 2 on the shelves. I have seen this type of split so small it takes a little bit of regulated air pressure to find.

Note on the replacement side : it really is easier to take the Left front headlamp assembly out to access the 2 Torx head bolts, and the clamp at the charge air cooler :D:

:drink: Carl

John the sprinter mech
09-29-2009, 01:13 PM
John,
Is there any consistency with mileage or time for this failure? I guess what I'm asking is whether there is a mileage or time period that as with a starting battery, you just know it's gonna fail....... the question is not if, but sooner or later. Thanks. AP/vic

I have seen them go out with as little as 50k on and with factory equipment as long as 360k!
No consistency. Just wise to keep them on hand.

John

talkinghorse43
09-29-2009, 03:53 PM
Can't say I really looked before, but at the last EGR cleaning for my '02, I noticed the hose to the EGR seemed to be bulging near the hose clamp. Also seemed unusually flexible at that point. Maybe it's like radiator hoses; maybe they need to be replaced when they begin to show signs of deterioration (unusually hard or soft)?

10Kids
11-02-2009, 01:37 AM
I also had a split charge hose but the symptoms were slightly different:

Symptoms:

1) Power was surging
2) Puffs of smoke while goin up hill
3) Bost pressure would build and then suddenly be lost
4) Hissing sound could be heard in high boost situations
5) No hissing at idle
6) Squeezing the hoses did not expose the problem when charged at moderate pressure
7) Oil deposits on intercooler exit hose and surrounding area

Diagnosis:
Intercooler exit hose had a split at the bottom. This is the hose behind the left headlamp.

2004 with ariginal hose, 231,000 miles. Original resonator replaced at 210,000 miles. Van was an airport shuttle in Atlanta GA for the first 220,000 miles and never saw hills. We live in a hilly part of NY state and the hills split the weak hose.

dpresler
11-03-2009, 02:49 AM
Check all turbo hoses for splits and oil leaks. 2 times i had this problem, Once was a cracked hose just below the temp sensor on the right side of engine and the second time the conditions were the same sounding and it turned out to be a plugged fuel filter. Good luck.

ZED
11-03-2009, 05:53 AM
The manual for the Unimog has you replacing pretty much every rubber part every two years whether it's turned a wheel in that time or not. So, I'm thinking a hose in this sort of service (heat, oil mist, pressure) is probably due for a replacement every few years also. I may just replace mine before the summer trips for good measure.