Add Daytime Running Lights DRL - ideas

Check what Sikwan outlines in his thread.
Head Lights wired to Ignition Switch (DRL)
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4245

Because my 2004 has OEM DRL I didn't need/remember Sikwan's light switch modification. Now that I have my 2006 without DRL's I have reason to explore the idea.

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This DRL thread originally starts here. I will leave the thread intact for the general information it may provide. I would not do the trailer light module mod. Skip down to post #17 for what I consider a good solution.

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I haven't tried this yet. I would like to add DRL's to my 2006. I definitely want to have the tail lights and headlights included in my design. Otherwise it is too easy to drive at night with DRL headlamps on, but no tail lamps. All the DRL specific modules that I've found only address power to the headlamps.

My idea is to use a powered trailer light module. One issue has been the amp rating of the typical powered trailer light modules. My headlamps are 55 watt. Some Sprinters have even higher wattage lamps installed. This Hopkins unit looks very promising with 8 amp (approx. 96 watts) capability for each of the three outputs.

Hopkins Plug-N-Tow (R) Short Proof Powered Taillight Converter - Heavy Duty
Item # 46365
https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Hop...MIm-uZhp-J1gIVj7XACh0WmwRwEAQYAiABEgIDZPD_BwE

The installation would have the powered trailer light module mounted under the hood. A fused supply (25 amp?) from the battery is needed. 2 each outputs would be connected directly to the left and right low beam headlamp wires. The low beam wires are available under the hood near the headlamp pods.

The trigger signal wires would all be connected to an engine running Terminal D+ wire. That should be available under the hood. If not, it is definitely available under the dash or the driver seat.

The above activates DRL, but only the headlamps.

If DRL tail lights aren't wanted, this module should work for the above low beam headlamps only circuit.
Truck-Lite 97300 Standard Daytime Running Light DRL Module CD1-A
http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/truck-lite-97300-standard-daytime-running-light-drl-module-cd1-a/

Adding the 3rd output to the circuit should work to power the running/tail lamps.

The 3rd output would be connected to a tail lamp fuse on the powered side using this adapter in FB #1 and only the one fuse (OEM) installed. (FB #1 fuse position #1 and #11 look like possible candidates each need an adapter.)
Added:
2 each fuse taps and 2 each blocking diodes are needed. See post #2.

PIXNOR
Pixnor 12V ATO ATC Add A Circuit Fuse Tap Piggy Back Standard Blade Fuse Holder with 20A Blade Fuse - Size M
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011I9QZX2



The running/park/tail lamps are fused separately, but I believe all running lamps will be fed through their respective fuses using the adapter in the appropriate position/orientation.
Added:
The fuse adapter seemed the easiest way to tap the circuit that is internal to the FB #1. There are no wires for that section of the circuit. It is all bus bars or internals in the multi-function switch.
An alternative method would be to remove and dis-assemble the FB #1 to solder and bring out a tap wires from the proper bus bars which feed fuse positions #1 and #11.

I did some basic research using the somewhat confusing lighting schematics. It doesn't seem like there will be any problems with backfeeds even when the stalk switch is activated. The OEM fuses will essentially be by-passed for the low beams by the module feed, but the trailer module short proof design should make that less of a problem. Backfeeds or other problems may surface that I've not considered so use my idea at your own risk.

Please feel free to add information, alternative methods, or to point out any flaws in my outlined installation.

vic

I discovered a bug already.

I ass-u-me'd that the FB #1 Fuse position #1 and Fuse position #11 for running lights were fed from a common supply. The supply is common, but it is switched.

The Sprinter has a somewhat unique parking lamp feature. When the stalk switch is set to Parking Lights the turn signal lever can be set to left or right to select Parking Lights on one side only. I presume that is to help save battery while parked at night.

That feature means that the feeds to fuse #1 (right) and #11 (left) are not commoned, but are separate.

Using Dick's Diagram.



Some additional general notes are on this copy.



This 8w version has a bit more details as to included OEM components.




I added 2 each blocking diodes to the trailer module DRL circuit. That allows the Hopkins Trailer Light Module output to supply the individual fuses without making them common. There will be a bit of voltage drop across the diodes, but I don't believe it will be noticed in the brightness of the lights.

It's getting a bit more complex, but still not bad for overall installation.

Added:
Some total wattage approximations.

My 55 watt headlamp bulbs are well under the rated 8 amps (96 watts) per output.

Running Lamps Estimate
Assume 2057 or 1157 brake lamps/front turn signal so 8.25 watts per running light filament.
1 each corner = 4 x 8.25 = 33 watts
2 ea. top tail light running lamps = 16.5 watts
2 ea. 140 WB side marker lamps = 16.5 watts (probably less)
Misc. (missed, low est. for watts) = 15 watts

Approx Total = 81 watts.
Feeding the combined right side Fuse #1 and left side Fuse #11 running lights with one 8 amp (96 watt) output should be within the rated load.

The license plate lamps and a few others are on Fuse #10. Those loads will not be on my Hopkins DRL module.

vic

Added:

As an aside, without DRL there is no headlamp or other running light relays. Similar to the Espar Heater "Except" notes, the "Except DRL" needs to be noticed. One problem with the OEM DRL relays is that they don't label them DRL or Except DRL in many of the schematics. You are left to somehow figure out that they are DRL related. Eg. - 8w-10-26 below.





vic

Aqua Puttana said:

I haven't tried this yet. I would like to add DRL's to my 2006. I definitely want to have the tail lights and headlights included in my design. Otherwise it is too easy to drive at night with DRL headlamps on, but no tail lamps.

Click to expand...

Cant you just turn on the light switch to achieve the same end?

Tooth Fairy said:

Cant you just turn on the light switch to achieve the same end?

Click to expand...

Of course, but I forget and others driving my Sprinter won't think of it. I think that automatic DRL's do help with safety. It may save me a ticket in Canada, but I think that USA plated vehicles aren't required to have automatic DRL's or by Canadian traffic laws even required for headlights on during daylight hours.

Some claim DRL cause more headlamps to burn out. After an initial flurry of 2004 lamp replacements I haven't found that to be the case when using 55 watt lamps.

A minor advantage is that Sprinter OEM style DRL's allow all driving/running lights on without the dash back lighting being on. My 2004 with OEM DRL and 319,000 miles still has all original back lights working. My 2006 without DRL and 153,000 miles needed all ATC and many other back lights replaced.

That said, I drive my 2004 with DRL's only and no dash back lighting all the time. Why did it bother me that the 2006 back lighting didn't work? Maybe obsessive compulsive helps to explain why I put the effort into repairing those lights?

I haven't moved forward with the above DRL circuits. Time will tell whether I actually spend the money and install the DRL circuit that I outline. Creating DRL's with full running lights similar to OEM was basically more of a "how to" challenge.

A tangible benefit so far is that I've learned a bit more about the lighting electrics on my Sprinters. Adding some explanation notes to the sketchy MB schematics is another real benefit. I find the diagrams to be a bit tedious at times.

vic

There's a note in my 2005's owner's manual:
On vehicles with automatic switching-off of high
beam, with the key in 0 position and the lamp switch
position (headlights) on low and high beam, parking lamps
are automatically switched on. When the driver’s or
passenger’s door is opened, a warning buzzer also
sounds.
-------
So some Sprinters may have that extra bit of (il)Logic that kills the high beams at position zero.
(i haven't tested mine for that...)

If i were installing an after-the-fact DRL system, i'd also try to add a manual "kill" switch for those rare instances that i want the engine running (or vehicle moving) and No headlights (needed for telescope star parties). Perhaps derived from Vic's "Run" position on the MFS.

--dick (who does try to remember to always turn on his headlights, and who puts PostIt notes on his rental cars to remind himself to turn them Off, too)

autostaretx said:

...

If i were installing an after-the-fact DRL system, i'd also try to add a manual "kill" switch for those rare instances that i want the engine running (or vehicle moving) and No headlights (needed for telescope star parties). Perhaps derived from Vic's "Run" position on the MFS.

...

Click to expand...

I had the same thought. That is especially true being that some new wires will need to be routed through the firewall to the dash/FB #1. While running even one wire it takes little to add others for features like the "kill" switch. For the trailer module idea that just means interrupting the D+ trigger circuit.

There have been times when I wish my 2004 OEM DRL system had a defeat switch/method. As an example, I don't like disturbing others with headlights when leaving a campground in the wee hours.

vic

How about this...

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4245

It's does everything what you ask and it even uses the headlight switch to kill the functioning lights by turning it to the off position. To enable DRL's, you leave the headlight switch to the on position.

Caveats:

1. You will not have functioning lights without the key.
2. You need to modify the fuse box. If you need to replace fuse box when something else fails, you lose your DRL function (unless you mod again).
3. Doesn't prevent unknowing users to return the headlight switch to off.

The mod has been running fine since I made the write-up. The only thing I would change is my half-ass job (could've been neater, professionally done). Funny how I can have DRL's without even thinking, but I wanted DRL's on my high beams.

On the topic of halogen bulbs, I read somewhere a long ago that the bulbs last longer when you use them. I can't seem to find that idea now on the interweb.

sikwan said:

How about this...

Click to expand...

sikwan said:

Caveats:

1. You will not have functioning lights without the key.

Click to expand...

That is a deal breaker for me. I'm pretty certain that my NYS annual safety inspection requires key off parking lights.

sikwan said:

2. You need to modify the fuse box. If you need to replace fuse box when something else fails, you lose your DRL function (unless you mod again).

Click to expand...

No big deal.

sikwan said:

3. Doesn't prevent unknowing users to return the headlight switch to off.

Click to expand...

I can live with that.

My thought for the NYS key off Parking Light issue is to cut the Running/Headlamp power trace as you did. Once that is isolated I will use a SPDT selector switch for switching between OEM always powered and your Auto/DRL mode. That should give me both worlds.

More news to follow.
Added:
A quick calculation shows around 200 watts total with 240 watts a possibility. So a 20 amp circuit/switch is needed for the total running/headlight feed.

A couple center off possibilities.
https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Toggle-Switch-Rubber-Center/dp/B006YWKALW

https://www.amazon.com/Generic-610267-Center-Rocker-Switch/dp/B00HF8TWR2

Now I need to find a good D+ source. That may end up a relay controlled by the D+ wire.

vic

Aqua Puttana said:

That is a deal breaker for me. I'm pretty certain that my NYS annual safety inspection requires key off parking lights.

Click to expand...

You can have the key off (or out) function except you will only have parking lights on one side of the van, not both.

I rarely use it, but when I do, I place my turn signal to the side that I want the lights to be on and turn the switch clockwise (looking towards the stalk). Your stalk should have the P position below the off, like in this picture...




Or better yet, use the hazards. I'm surprise NYC has such a rule. Now I know why my 2004 Subaru Forester has such a switch on the column specifically for this. Made no sense to me before.

sikwan said:

You can have the key off (or out) function except you will only have parking lights on one side of the van, not both.

...

Click to expand...

That likely solves it enough.

I believe that it still leaves me with a headlamps on during start situation (unless I manually switch them off). For our winter starts with occasional -15F ambient, both the headlights and the glow plugs drawing power during cranking is less than optimal. I'm leaning to an 87 relay supplied by B+ aka Ter 30 - maybe the existing feed? - and controlled by the D+ for feeding the one leg of the selector switch. That's a bit more complex, but worth it for my winter starting.

vic

Or, you can wire a D+ straight to where the red jumper is soldered to the cutoff trace.

The way I have it, the red jumper is connected to the key switch. I don't know if there is already a D+ in the fuse box, but it's worth a look.

sikwan said:

Or, you can wire a D+ straight to where the red jumper is soldered to the cutoff trace.

The way I have it, the red jumper is connected to the key switch. I don't know if there is already a D+ in the fuse box, but it's worth a look.

Click to expand...

That is worth exploring for certain.

I'm a bit reluctant to tag the running/headlamp load directly on the D+.

The Body Manufacturer Terminals are:
Ter 30 (B+) = 25 amp
Ter 15 (Key on) = 15 amp
Ter D+ (engine running) = 10 amp

I don't know how beefy the D+ circuit is overall. It may be easy to overload it.

More investigation is needed... eventually.

vic

The missing theoretical line wasn't the only problem. I've thought that the schematic showing the switch commons being fed from the Right Side Turn Signal line just didn't seem right.

I'm convinced that the schematic is wrong.

Here's the "As Found" 8w-50-4 schematic.







Here's the 8w-50-5 showing the feeds from the turn signal lines up to the 8w-50-4 Run light switch. The feeds from the turn signal supplies will address the Park Light Side Select Feature, but they don't provide a B+ for the switch common as outlined by Sikwan.







Here is what I believe the 8w-50-4 should look like. The "Triangle B" feed just feeds the right side park select contact. It doesn't feed the switch common.







The cryptic schematics are tedious enough. They really don't need to add errors on top of that.

vic

Yes the schematics have errors. PITA sometimes.

sikwan said:

Yes the schematics have errors. PITA sometimes.

Click to expand...

Where's a "swooned on floor" icon when i need one?



... will have to do.

--dick

I know the world isn't perfect. It is interesting that this set of schematics has so many errors.

The missing "theoretical" line. The missing B+ switch common with an incorrect node shown for the right turn signal line. (Not small mistakes.) The S227/226 splice error. And I noticed another splice error similar to Dick's S227/226. Two individual splices side by side with the same number on one schematic, but correct elsewhere. S351/351 8w-50-2, S351/352 8w-50-5.

Maybe I just haven't referenced the general diagrams enough to realize how poorly they represent the actual circuits.

Anyway. Back to topic.

vic

By using Sikwan's cut bus idea

I believe that I have a workable solution for Auto DRL Headlights complete with running lights.

Parts:
SPDT Center off 20 amp switch
87 Relay
87 Relay Socket
Scraps of wire
Cable ties

The FB #1 OEM brass bus bar needs to be cut per Sikwan's Write-up.

Head Lights wired to Ignition Switch
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4245

Wires need to be soldered to the bus dead ends that were created, and then brought out for the SPDT Switch and 87 Relay. Mounting needs to be selected for the switch and relay. A source of Terminal D+ needs to be found for the relay coil.

Here's the circuit.



A couple center off 20 amp switch possibilities.

https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Toggle-Switch-Rubber-Center/dp/B006YWKALW

https://www.amazon.com/Generic-610267-Center-Rocker-Switch/dp/B00HF8TWR2


vic

sikwan said:

Or, you can wire a D+ straight to where the red jumper is soldered to the cutoff trace.
...
I don't know if there is already a D+ in the fuse box, but it's worth a look.

Click to expand...

I paged through most of the schematics.

I didn't find a D+ engine running wire anywhere on the FB #1. I decided to check the ATC for a D+. The schematics revealed a D+ wire on both the ATC Automatic Temperature Control and/or the IC Instrument Cluster.

There are somewhat obscure possible variations... what a surprise.

It appears that the IC has a 20 ga. BL/VT wire that is the control signal to the D+ #1 Relay under the driver seat. One Sprinter variation has that BL/VT wire also going to the ATC.

Another variation appears to have a fused D+ from the D+ #1 Relay RD/YL/WT wire to ATC Connector C1 Pin #8.

Either way it appears that an appropriate low amperage D+ signal for a relay coil can be found near, but not within, the FB #1 proper.





vic

Added:
If the BL/VT wire is tapped for the 87 relay coil it probably would be best to fuse it down at 1/2 amp or so. Otherwise any issues/faults with the 87 relay tapped coil circuit may cause problems with the IC circuit which supplies that D+ signal.

While I was messing with the idea of adding DRL's to my 2006 it occurred to me that I never verified that my 2004 license plate lamps are on with OEM DRL. While connecting my trailer the other night I discovered that they are indeed on with the DRL.

That helps to explain the number of relays needed for the OEM DRL function. It is interesting that the dash lights remain off, but the license plate lights are lit with OEM DRL. I know that when the license plate lamp circuit blows a fuse it takes the dash backlights with it (not the instrument inset lamps).

My added DRL will need license plate lamps included as automatic. Police officers often notice when your plate isn't lit.

vic

I have two vehicles that came with DRL's from the factory and both do NOT have their plate lights on. The Chevy S10 has a green light in the cluster, while the Forester doesn't, to indicate DRL's being on.

I think the Sprinter's OEM DRL's were an after-thought, imho. I don't think US regulations dictate that you have to have plate lights running with DRL's. I don't even think there is a mandate for DRL's in the US.