Check what Sikwan outlines in his thread.
Head Lights wired to Ignition Switch (DRL)
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4245
Because my 2004 has OEM DRL I didn't need/remember Sikwan's light switch modification. Now that I have my 2006 without DRL's I have reason to explore the idea.
*****************
This DRL thread originally starts here. I will leave the thread intact for the general information it may provide. I would not do the trailer light module mod. Skip down to post #17 for what I consider a good solution.
*****************
I haven't tried this yet. I would like to add DRL's to my 2006. I definitely want to have the tail lights and headlights included in my design. Otherwise it is too easy to drive at night with DRL headlamps on, but no tail lamps. All the DRL specific modules that I've found only address power to the headlamps.
My idea is to use a powered trailer light module. One issue has been the amp rating of the typical powered trailer light modules. My headlamps are 55 watt. Some Sprinters have even higher wattage lamps installed. This Hopkins unit looks very promising with 8 amp (approx. 96 watts) capability for each of the three outputs.
Hopkins Plug-N-Tow (R) Short Proof Powered Taillight Converter - Heavy Duty
Item # 46365
https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Hop...MIm-uZhp-J1gIVj7XACh0WmwRwEAQYAiABEgIDZPD_BwE
The installation would have the powered trailer light module mounted under the hood. A fused supply (25 amp?) from the battery is needed. 2 each outputs would be connected directly to the left and right low beam headlamp wires. The low beam wires are available under the hood near the headlamp pods.
The trigger signal wires would all be connected to an engine running Terminal D+ wire. That should be available under the hood. If not, it is definitely available under the dash or the driver seat.
The above activates DRL, but only the headlamps.
If DRL tail lights aren't wanted, this module should work for the above low beam headlamps only circuit.
Truck-Lite 97300 Standard Daytime Running Light DRL Module CD1-A
http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/truck-lite-97300-standard-daytime-running-light-drl-module-cd1-a/
Adding the 3rd output to the circuit should work to power the running/tail lamps.
The 3rd output would be connected to a tail lamp fuse on the powered side using this adapter in FB #1 and only the one fuse (OEM) installed. (FB #1 fuse position #1 and #11look like possible candidates each need an adapter.)
Added:
2 each fuse taps and 2 each blocking diodes are needed. See post #2.
PIXNOR
Pixnor 12V ATO ATC Add A Circuit Fuse Tap Piggy Back Standard Blade Fuse Holder with 20A Blade Fuse - Size M
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011I9QZX2
The running/park/tail lamps are fused separately, but I believe all running lamps will be fed through their respective fuses using the adapter in the appropriate position/orientation.
Added:
The fuse adapter seemed the easiest way to tap the circuit that is internal to the FB #1. There are no wires for that section of the circuit. It is all bus bars or internals in the multi-function switch.
An alternative method would be to remove and dis-assemble the FB #1 to solder and bring out a tap wires from the proper bus bars which feed fuse positions #1 and #11.
I did some basic research using the somewhat confusing lighting schematics. It doesn't seem like there will be any problems with backfeeds even when the stalk switch is activated. The OEM fuses will essentially be by-passed for the low beams by the module feed, but the trailer module short proof design should make that less of a problem. Backfeeds or other problems may surface that I've not considered so use my idea at your own risk.
Please feel free to add information, alternative methods, or to point out any flaws in my outlined installation.
vic
Head Lights wired to Ignition Switch (DRL)
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4245
Because my 2004 has OEM DRL I didn't need/remember Sikwan's light switch modification. Now that I have my 2006 without DRL's I have reason to explore the idea.
*****************
This DRL thread originally starts here. I will leave the thread intact for the general information it may provide. I would not do the trailer light module mod. Skip down to post #17 for what I consider a good solution.
*****************
I haven't tried this yet. I would like to add DRL's to my 2006. I definitely want to have the tail lights and headlights included in my design. Otherwise it is too easy to drive at night with DRL headlamps on, but no tail lamps. All the DRL specific modules that I've found only address power to the headlamps.
My idea is to use a powered trailer light module. One issue has been the amp rating of the typical powered trailer light modules. My headlamps are 55 watt. Some Sprinters have even higher wattage lamps installed. This Hopkins unit looks very promising with 8 amp (approx. 96 watts) capability for each of the three outputs.
Hopkins Plug-N-Tow (R) Short Proof Powered Taillight Converter - Heavy Duty
Item # 46365
https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Hop...MIm-uZhp-J1gIVj7XACh0WmwRwEAQYAiABEgIDZPD_BwE
The installation would have the powered trailer light module mounted under the hood. A fused supply (25 amp?) from the battery is needed. 2 each outputs would be connected directly to the left and right low beam headlamp wires. The low beam wires are available under the hood near the headlamp pods.
The trigger signal wires would all be connected to an engine running Terminal D+ wire. That should be available under the hood. If not, it is definitely available under the dash or the driver seat.
The above activates DRL, but only the headlamps.
If DRL tail lights aren't wanted, this module should work for the above low beam headlamps only circuit.
Truck-Lite 97300 Standard Daytime Running Light DRL Module CD1-A
http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/truck-lite-97300-standard-daytime-running-light-drl-module-cd1-a/
Adding the 3rd output to the circuit should work to power the running/tail lamps.
The 3rd output would be connected to a tail lamp fuse on the powered side using this adapter in FB #1 and only the one fuse (OEM) installed. (FB #1 fuse position #1 and #11
Added:
2 each fuse taps and 2 each blocking diodes are needed. See post #2.
PIXNOR
Pixnor 12V ATO ATC Add A Circuit Fuse Tap Piggy Back Standard Blade Fuse Holder with 20A Blade Fuse - Size M
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011I9QZX2
The running/park/tail lamps are fused separately, but I believe all running lamps will be fed through their respective fuses using the adapter in the appropriate position/orientation.
Added:
The fuse adapter seemed the easiest way to tap the circuit that is internal to the FB #1. There are no wires for that section of the circuit. It is all bus bars or internals in the multi-function switch.
An alternative method would be to remove and dis-assemble the FB #1 to solder and bring out a tap wires from the proper bus bars which feed fuse positions #1 and #11.
I did some basic research using the somewhat confusing lighting schematics. It doesn't seem like there will be any problems with backfeeds even when the stalk switch is activated. The OEM fuses will essentially be by-passed for the low beams by the module feed, but the trailer module short proof design should make that less of a problem. Backfeeds or other problems may surface that I've not considered so use my idea at your own risk.
Please feel free to add information, alternative methods, or to point out any flaws in my outlined installation.
vic
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