My reliability problems continue. Now I need access to the front of the engine. From other posts there is mention and one picture of swinging the cooling package out to gain access. So here are my observations.
Why the radiator swing-out? If you have AC and need access to the OM612 fuel lines, high pressure pump, water pump, harmonic balancer – this is an approach to get to these items without disconnecting the AC condenser and all the problems and costs associated with that action.
This task takes time – it took me about 3.5 hours – it can be faster if you have done it before and know what you are doing, and don't have to escape mosquitoes. Below are my experiences with an OM612, but other than some minor differences with the radiator hoses and intercooler hoses, I don’t think there are any important differences.
Tools:
After reassembly, check the top radiator hose - the swing-out can cause it to slip back partially off the radiator mounting flange, resulting in the hose blowing off once the system is pressurized.
More pictures and cautions here: https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67416
Why the radiator swing-out? If you have AC and need access to the OM612 fuel lines, high pressure pump, water pump, harmonic balancer – this is an approach to get to these items without disconnecting the AC condenser and all the problems and costs associated with that action.
This task takes time – it took me about 3.5 hours – it can be faster if you have done it before and know what you are doing, and don't have to escape mosquitoes. Below are my experiences with an OM612, but other than some minor differences with the radiator hoses and intercooler hoses, I don’t think there are any important differences.
Tools:
- Standard Sprinter tools including male and female star sockets and metric Allen sockets. For the fan, if you have one of the special tools to lock the hub while removing the bolt holding on the fan – otherwise a well-placed large channel lock piers will do. There is no need to jack-up the van – there is plenty of working room for the stuff you need to access from underneath.
- Fluid collectors/buckets/Plastic drop cloth – all the dropping fluids are going to create a mess.
- Lots of rags and plastic bags
- Parts: For the swing-out itself, other than if you cannot salvage the 2 bumper plugs located in the step wells, no replacement hardware. But you will need:
- Coolant
- Transmission fluid
- Power steering fluid
- Tensioner, related idler pulleys and serpentine belt
- Fuel lines (OM612)
- High Pressure pump (especially OM612 due to the clear lines routed under the pump)
- Fan
- Water pump
- Radiator hoses
- Intercooler hoses
- It is also a good time to clean out the radiator fins.
- Transmission cooler lines – Why start here? This is the key piece – if you cannot get the transmission cooler lines disconnected, the whole radiator swing project is dead before it even starts. Be careful. Most older T1N transmission cooler lines are rusted. Try to go after the lines transitioning from the engine block area to the radiator (17mm and 19mm nuts) – not the set that enters into the radiator. There are many stories how people have buggered their radiator trying to remove the transmission cooler lines at that interface. Each of the lower lines has 2 locations to disconnect. The chances are that at least one of the connectors will disconnect. If not – you are in big trouble if you damage them and cannot reconnect later on the reinstallation. Quite a bit of ATF will flow out – so be prepared. Cover the ends of the lines with plastic bags or something to keep clean.
- Remove grill and both headlights
- Remove the cross member and fold off to your right with the hood latch cable still connected
- Remove plastic bumper. The instructions below basically correct – but the picture is of a European Sprinter bumper. Remove the temp sensor. The 2 plugs are located in the step wells and can be salvaged with careful drilling in a drywall screw and pulling it out. The plastic bumper now comes off by thumping the bumper from the wheel wells forward.
- Drain the coolant
- Remove intercooler hoses - top as it enters the intake manifold and the 2 bottom at the intercooler. Plug holes with rags
- Remove radiator hoses – favoring the engine side. Note that the bottom right hose does not need to be removed as it simply connects with a heater line at the bottom of the radiator.
- Remove the electric fan. Be careful to note the shims at the top mount as they are a major factor in keeping the electric fan from chewing up the AC condenser. Don’t remove the 4 bolts on the fan’s casing. Rather, you need to remove the bottom 2 bolts holding fan bracket. They are special bolts that look like a normal nut on the top. But in fact they are supposed to be Locktite onto the bolt. Remove with a 13mm, and the whole nut, bolt and rubber bumper will come off. Prying the radiator package up a bit will help get the bolts off. Pull the fan unit up and out. Protect the electric connectors from dirt.
- Remove the top steering fluid line from the steering fluid cooler. But hold up if you want to reduce the mess. The top line goes to the bottom of the power steering pump reservoir. If you simply take off the line, there will be a mess as the fluid from the reservoir empties all over everything on that side of the engine bay. Rather, look down the line and undo the clip holding the two power steering cooling lines together. then have handy something to plug the cooler side - like a 1/2 hose that is plugged or you can push into a higher position. Then unhitch the line. For the hose from the pump, rotate it up and entangle in the lines around the ABS lines so that you don't lose any fluid. The oil from the cooler doesn't pour out immediately, so you have a few seconds to put the 1/2 hose on the end and limit the fluid loss from that side. I did not remove the lower hose as it has enough play in it to rotate when the radiator swings out.
- Lift the whole radiator package up about an inch and swing out. Note that there are 2 rubber bumpers between the lower cross beam and the radiator that studs from the radiator fit into. Don't lose them, as the may be stuck to the bottom of the radiator or fallen off during the moving of the radiator package. I have not been aggressive – so I don’t know how much it can swing. I have it at about 60 degrees. The package rests on the lower cross-member without problem. But while I was working, I put something under the radiator package to hold it up and keep the tension off the AC lines.
- My fan was so dirty that I had to clean out the hole on the bolt to figure out that it is a metric Allen bolt (8mm I think). Standard lefty-loosey bolt. Because of the viscous clutch, remember to store the fan VERTICALLY.
After reassembly, check the top radiator hose - the swing-out can cause it to slip back partially off the radiator mounting flange, resulting in the hose blowing off once the system is pressurized.
More pictures and cautions here: https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67416
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