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View Full Version : Actuator Linkage jams, Rust, delicate Worm Drive Gear, Turbo Vanes, Low Boost & pLHM!


Gwilym
07-24-2017, 11:53 AM
Need some accurate answers to Actuator problems so I can gauge best course of action.

On my year 2000 208CDi Partial LHM was, finally, diagnosed as "jammed shut rusty as hell turbo actuator".

The mechanic has, somehow, moved it so that it is now jammed open.

Reading all of the threads I possibly can about the actuator and the turbo veins it operates I cannot fathom 2 things:

1. Is it always the actuator arm which jams with rust or something in the Actuator itself? in which case why am I being advised I need a new Actuator?
...‘AquaPuttana’ referred to this issue in a 2009 post as “the turbo vane actuator linkage being frozen that sent the ECU to LHM limp home mode”

2. how can my actuator have been safely moved to open, leaving it now jammed open, without having caused damage?

Does my year 2000 T1N have the delicate worm drive to control the turbo vanes? Or was it different with earlier Sprinters? ‘slowgsr’ refers to this as the “worm drive gear in the actuator” in a 2010 post.

This may sound a bit mixed up so please be gentle with me I am not a mechanic!:hugs:

:cheers:Knowledgeable feedback greatly appreciated!

Aqua Puttana
07-24-2017, 01:36 PM
...

On my year 2000 208CDi ...
2. how can my actuator have been safely moved to open, leaving it now jammed open, without having caused damage?

Does my year 2000 T1N have the delicate worm drive to control the turbo vanes? Or was it different with earlier Sprinters? ‘slowgsr’ refers to this as the “worm drive gear in the actuator” in a 2010 post.

...
Until 2004 NAS aka NAFTA Sprinters had vacuum operated turbo vane positioners. Unless someone with specific knowledge tells you otherwise, I would say that you have a vacuum operated assembly.

The vacuum operated assembly could probably be carefully moved without any real damage.

From postings here, most times it is the linkage that corrodes/rusts/sticks. That doesn't mean that corrosion can't take its toll on an entire assembly.

vic

ptheland
07-24-2017, 06:55 PM
in which case why am I being advised I need a new Actuator?

It may boil down to parts availability and keeping a customer from coming back for the same problem.

I don't know if the arm is available as a part separate from the entire actuator assembly. If not, you have to buy a whole actuator to get a new arm. And if you've got that, a mechanic is going to install the whole assembly instead of taking apart a new assembly to get out a single part.

Doing so is probably faster, and that translates into less labor time and cost.

Even if the arm is available separate from the entire actuator assembly, it might make sense for a professional mechanic to replace the whole assembly. The mechanic doesn't want you coming back for the same (or similar) problem. They want you to be fixed and back on the road. That generates goodwill for the mechanic - referrals and repeat business from satisfied customers. If they replace only the arm and then a fortnight later you're back because the actuator isn't working, you're not going to be happy. That's not good for the mechanic.

Lastly, it's a 17 year old part. If it's suspect, replace it. It doesn't owe you anything at this point.

Gwilym
07-24-2017, 09:50 PM
Both replies above excellent advice I've been a member since 2010 and only recently spotted how the 'thanks' button works and have been using it!

I want to be as certain as possible about the need for a new Actuator assembly having been warned they are very expensive and awkward to fit.

Also having just spent £150 on the Vacuum Solenoid Costs are an issue. Money is tight my work has been erratic I am self employed and keeping the van, which is a my second vehicle and a luxury, comes in to question now and again. I often lay it up for long periods especially winter and that's probably why I've got this issue, & thanks to the British climate & I living by the sea!

My thinking is that if the Actuator can be pushed back and forth by the mechanic, although it sticks in position, could it not be lubricated and loosened up for now as many seem to have done on the Merc forums then replaced when I have more spare cash?...Depends how expensive this little assembly is I'm waiting for a quote and if it's too much I will ask the mechanic to try lubricating. If they aren't prepared may even try myself!

Thanks again for all of the advice.:thumbup:

Gwilym
07-26-2017, 04:09 PM
Dealer has just told my mechanic they cant supply Actuator by itself...Just whole new Turbo system!

However:smilewink:my Actuator/Linkage seems to have come back to life with some twiddling and greasing.

I have searched the internet for an Actuator but, yet again, pre-2002 Sprinters seem to be difficult to source parts for.

vanski
07-27-2017, 07:27 AM
Dealer has just told my mechanic they cant supply Actuator by itself...Just whole new Turbo system!

However:smilewink:my Actuator/Linkage seems to have come back to life with some twiddling and greasing.

I have searched the internet for an Actuator but, yet again, pre-2002 Sprinters seem to be difficult to source parts for.

Same here in the US; great turbo which rarely fails itself but the actuators can fail, and dealer wants you to fork over the start of your first borne's university education. Absolutely rediculous considering the part is about 15% of the cost of the entire turbo unit and putting a new/used-good actuator in is simple compared to the entire turbo. Huge money grab if you ask me.

I'd go with your fix for a while and try to find a junkyard with the same sprinter(s) and source one there if you're on a tight budget. I can't speak exactly how your actuator works, but I know on my 2004 sprinter you can tell a properly functioning actuator a few different ways one of which is just plugging it in, starting the vehicle up, and seeing if the arm moves. Read - you don't have to completely install it.. of course a vacuum actuated actuator must be more complicated than that...

Gwilym
01-18-2018, 09:42 AM
Everything working fine now.

The Vacuum Solenoid had gone then because the actuator was not being operated by the solenoid it stiffened up.

After the Solenoid was replaced the actuator still didn't work so I asked the garage to lubricate the actuator arm, following advice on this forum, and that did the trick!:thumbup: