PDA

View Full Version : Recurring P0715


hoppyk1
06-27-2017, 10:23 PM
2006 T1N 2500 cargo, 140WB, 220K

I had a P0715 and LHM within 200 miles of purchase in NJ on the way back to Rochester. I have been lurking on this forum so was not surprised and was planning on ATF/Filter and 13 Pin connector replacement when I got home.

There were no ECU or TCU codes read with Blue Driver when purchased. BlueDriver could read but not reset TCU codes on Sprinter, only ECU P0715 code.

Replaced 13 pin Connector and full fluid/filter replacement with Shell 134. Checked and cleaned harness plug with CRC contact cleaner. Reset tranny Code 220 speed sensor mismatch and ECU code with Autel MD802.

Old ATF was dark, but not black. Gummy grey residue in bottom of pan but no metal chips. Fix was temporary. P0715 and LHM returned several times but would clear with Autel MD802.

BTW Autel MD802 allows you to read tranny fluid temp in live data as well as many other parameters as well as reset codes on 15 modules, even reset radio if battery disconnected and you don't have the code.

Replaced Conductor Plate. Checked and cleaned TCM with CRC contact cleaner; minor fluid accumulation on outside of TCM at connector. Inside of TCM was clean.

Missing parts:
Found no white plastic solenoid covers. Are they needed? Also there is no heat shroud protecting 13 Pin connector but exhaust is more than a foot away.

Results are the same. P0715 sets as pending then permanent and LHM 2nd & R only.

The 13 Pin Connector is Dodge/MB but the Amazon Conductor plate is likely China aftermarket.

I have looked for harness/wire abrasions and not found any but I have not stripped the black corrugated wiremold off, just looked a it. The harness was not secured but hanging 1" below cross member. I wire tied it above cross member.

The Torque Converter drain plug sheared when reinstalling. My Ebay Snap-On flex head inch-pounds torque wrench may be miss-calibrated. So I have a fluid drip, about 3 ounces a week. Tried to easyout the remaining part of drain plug but have not been successful. I just check and top off fluid until I can get it on a lift to try again.

Symptoms/Clues:
1. About 15-20% of the time I try to read Tranny codes with Autel MD802 it fails to connect to TCU. ECU and other modules fail to connect less than 5% of the time.
2. Sometimes it will go several days before P0715, but if I make a tight turn particularly before engine is up to temperature, it will set code P0715 and LHM.
3. Have always been able to reset with Autel MD802, normal operation will resume even when driving when tranny code is cleared, even before ECU is cleared. I check to see of sport-a-matic will shift into 4th or 3rd.
4. Once, when in a hurry to get to a inspection appointment, I was driving in heavy rain and the P0715 and LHM popped up several times in 7 miles but eventually stayed off for inspection. I had not seen the tight turn phenoma yet so that may have been the cause and not wet wires.

The dodgeforum said that there was a 722.6 troubleshooting PDF but the moderator has not responded to my PM. Anybody here have that PDF?

I see 2 possibilities:
1. I have not found the bare wire/intermittent connection in harness.
2. Sloshing of ATF is affecting conductor plate speed sensor.

Should I replace Conductor Plate with real MB part? From where?

Anybody else been down the same path?

Anybody with Autel MD802 know what paramater(s) I should check and plot?
hoppyk1 is online now Report Post Reply With Quote Multi-Quote This Message Quick reply to this message

hoppyk1
06-27-2017, 10:26 PM
As soon as you type the words the Sprinter makes a liar out of you.

Five minutes after I posted it the Sprinter threw a P0715 when moderately accelerating in a straight line. Then the Autel MD802 had multiple failures to connect to TCU to kill code. Sure is acting like an intermittent connection. But I am not sore where to look.

Arnie_Oli
06-27-2017, 10:38 PM
I would suggest it is a wiring problem like you said. If it was happening to me I would look at the wiring diagram. Then weigh up if I should replace the loom or not.

If I was testing it I would disconnect both ends and set my multimeter to continuity beep with a test probe on either end of the cable and start to move it around to test for faults.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro which means I am probably lying under the van wishing I had a crawler and a large warm workshop I could park in.