PDA

View Full Version : Lower control arm replacement cost


Isla
06-23-2017, 06:20 PM
My driver side lower control arm makes a lot of squawk squeaky noises so I decided about a year ago to replace them. Bought the parts and never got around to it. Tried all kinds of lubing and trying to isolate the sound and never found it. Think it must be coming out of one of the lower bushings. Anyway I took a look at the job and decided that I probably didn't want to do it. Looks rather complicated and involved and I'm not all that excited to get into it. Asked a local Chrysler shop what it would cost for labor and they told me $475. This makes me think again that it's probably a bigger job then I can take on right now, but what do you guys think, is that about right sounding for the labor?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Patrick of M
06-23-2017, 10:26 PM
I haven't done this on a sprinter, but I have on plenty of other cars/vans...looks like 2 hrs max to me, and that's on my back without a lift. But you need the right tools, jacks etc.
To be clear I haven't looked up the procedure, if you then need to reset camber and the "strumphwashkind" or whatever other wacky German engineering is involved, then all bets are off.

deanoshiro
06-25-2017, 05:32 PM
It's a big job without the proper equipment. I bought new control arms and struts. Tried to take the arms off, was a bigger job that expected.. Could not do it. So just replaced the struts. What a big ride difference.

I would replace both and the struts by a non MB shop

BTW I didn't need control arms I was going to replace them since I had everything apart.

Patrick of M
06-25-2017, 07:58 PM
Did you have spring compressors? Honestly I just looked up the procedure and it looks like a regular lower control arm, u need balls joint/tie rod end splitters, and a spring compressor, and I wouldn't be surprised if it can be done without separating the strut from the knuckle. Like I said haven't done a sprinter, but personally would expect 2hrs shop time, before they start breaking things.:clapping:
Other tools needed, jack stand, trolley jack and bottle jack as a convincer, couple of tapered drifts and your bigger socket, wrenches etc.

Aqua Puttana
06-26-2017, 12:40 AM
Many (most?) aftermarket lower control arms come complete with ball joints.

Changing just the front struts on a T1N is not that big of a deal.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40873

vic

CharlesinGA
06-26-2017, 04:14 AM
Did you have spring compressors? Honestly I just looked up the procedure and it looks like a regular lower control arm, u need balls joint/tie rod end splitters, and a spring compressor, and I wouldn't be surprised if it can be done without separating the strut from the knuckle. Like I said haven't done a sprinter, but personally would expect 2hrs shop time, before they start breaking things.:clapping:
Other tools needed, jack stand, trolley jack and bottle jack as a convincer, couple of tapered drifts and your bigger socket, wrenches etc.

The spring is a flat transverse leaf spring, so there are no spring compressors that work on this, You would use a floor jack.

Struts are an after noon job if you have the tools, torque wrench, floor jack, jack stands, breaker bar, etc.

Charles

hyperlogos
12-31-2017, 08:55 PM
I'm in the middle of a ball joint job and I'm about to drop the LCAs and you don't need a floor jack, either. Just two blocks of wood. They go in between the springs and the spring plates (on the bottom of the cross member) before you jack the van. That takes the tension off the LCAs.

SneakyAnarchistVanCamper
01-02-2018, 03:31 PM
My video may help. I got napa control arms for $180 each, they work great and have a grease zerk on the ball joint. Struts are way easy to change, 1 hr job.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zF28nbJam0o&list=PLdJGvN0TF58GgotMjjJDfE0JBfSxszg_L

Patrick of M
01-02-2018, 06:21 PM
Helpful thanks for the clip. One note, if you hit the collar that surrounds the tie rod end shaft, often the distortion of the hit will allow the tie rod to fall out. Works pretty good, and is easier on the tie rod end.