Scampermobile
Member
Searching this forum yields mixed results regarding this and the more I searched the more I found conflicting information and partial write ups without conclusions. Frustrating I know you have all been there.
I attached a PDF of the install directions and posted them here. I didn't include any pictures Even without pictures I think this should be a sticky in the how to thread based on how many threads on this site reference installing trailer hitches (dozens upon dozens)
Successful OEM trailer electrical harness installation!
My 2011 2500 NCV3 Did not come factory with the trailer hitch, as many other
threads point out the most cost effective way to get a factory hitch is to order it…
well I like my rig and I didn’t want to hack in some after market harness so I went
with OEM.
The following part numbers correspond to the requirements for installation.
020-545-40-26 Plug socket List $73.60 Net $54.00
906-440-00-64 Electrical Harness List $264 Net $240.00
169-545-56-32 Trailer control module (I found a used one on ebay $70 shipped)
Unk part number – 80 amp mini ANL fuse installed prefuse block
Unk part number – quantity 2 nuts for prefuse box I had one already existing and I
found the other one on a stud under the drivers seat not doing anything…
906-545-12-40 Bracket (I didn’t purchase or install this but it should be the bracket
that holds the plug socket at the rear of the vehicle)
013-545-76-26 MCP2.8 .5-1.0mm contact spring (directions call for a 014-545-82-26
MCP2.8 1.5-2.5mm but it was to big to fit so I stepped it down to the previous)
***Software update from dealer*** $150 hour labor charge (took them 3 hours to
figure it out, they had to go line by line to find the proper accessory to activate)
According to the author if this thread you can order an entire kit which comes
complete with the OEM hitch as well. I cannot speak to that because it’s not what
I did but you can view his thread and pictures of the process here. There is no
conclusion as to his success.
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49115&highlight=169-545-56-32
If you are attempting this you should have some decent knowledge of tools and workmanship I will try not
to be vague but most of this was very self-explanatory… Start to finish will all parts and several beers on
hand I would say this is at most a 90 minute install
The wiring harness has a female plug socket on one end with a long attachment of wire to the other end, the
wire appears to be long enough for a 170 or a 144, I installed on my 144 and had several loops at both the
front and back of the van. The female plug and the plug socket go together at the back of the van.
Remove the drivers seat and fish the female plug down through the rubber boot in the floor. Route the cable
however you deem appropriate to the back of the van. I left about 24” extra at the back and there is easily
just as much looped under the seat. Secure appropriately.
Now you are left with 5 bundles of wire
1 Wiring harness
2 CAN bus line
3 terminal 54 cable
4 terminal 15 cable
4a plug contact terminal 15
5a cable bridge terminal 30
5b plug contact terminal 30
5c plug contact terminal 30
6 terminal 30 cable
7a cable bridge terminal 30
6b plug contact terminal 30
8 lines for terminal 31
9 trailer brake control unit line.
10 trailer module plugs.
Cable number 6 gets routed to the battery prefuse box. (disconnect the battery) remove the black battery
cover unhook the prefuse block from the positive terminal. Insert the 80amp mini ANL fuse then attach and
tighten using nuts.
Cable number 5 has 3 spade connectors at the end, one bridge and two that look the same. The bridge
connects fuse 14/15 then red/black goes into 15 and red/yellow goes into slot 14. There are red tabs on the
fuse blocks they need to be slid so they are unlocked before jamming them in there don’t forget to relock
them. By looking at the rest of the wires hooked up this should be fairly self-explanatory process.
INSERT 20amp fuse into 14 and 25amp fuse into slot 15
Cable number 4 has only one connection to be made. It plugs into slot 4 which already has power supplied
from the rest of the fuse block and inser 7.5 amp fuse into slot 4
Cable number 7 has two connections. 7a goes into slot 30 it is providing power to 7b, 7b red/yellow also
goes into slot 30 don’t get them mixed one is power supply through the fuse. Use a 30amp fuse in slot 30
Cable number 8 is the ground it should be obvious where to attach this, I had 3 other ground cables on a
stud that I attached it with.
Cable number 9 is the trailer brake controller plug… ignore it unless you are installing a brake controller. If
you are installing a brake controller reference Thread https://sprintersource.
com/forum/showthread.php?t=2088&highlight=Trailer+brake+controler+install
Plug in the sockets to your trailer module, they only go one way.
At this point you should be done under the seat. Route the 2 remaining cables (2 & 3) out the inside of the
seat with the power cable because they will be going up under the dash. Secure everything under the seat
and feel free to reinstall if you are confident with your work.
Route cables 2/3 as appropriate to get up under the dash, cable 2 has two connections to be made to the
CAN bus at the A pillar, cable 3 violet/black is attaching to the SAM.
2-pin brown and brown/red gets pugged in on CAN bus
Detach the multiplug from the SAM from slot C1. Attach plug contact to line for terminal 54 and fit into
contact cavity 15 of multiplug
I attached a PDF of the install directions and posted them here. I didn't include any pictures Even without pictures I think this should be a sticky in the how to thread based on how many threads on this site reference installing trailer hitches (dozens upon dozens)
Successful OEM trailer electrical harness installation!
My 2011 2500 NCV3 Did not come factory with the trailer hitch, as many other
threads point out the most cost effective way to get a factory hitch is to order it…
well I like my rig and I didn’t want to hack in some after market harness so I went
with OEM.
The following part numbers correspond to the requirements for installation.
020-545-40-26 Plug socket List $73.60 Net $54.00
906-440-00-64 Electrical Harness List $264 Net $240.00
169-545-56-32 Trailer control module (I found a used one on ebay $70 shipped)
Unk part number – 80 amp mini ANL fuse installed prefuse block
Unk part number – quantity 2 nuts for prefuse box I had one already existing and I
found the other one on a stud under the drivers seat not doing anything…
906-545-12-40 Bracket (I didn’t purchase or install this but it should be the bracket
that holds the plug socket at the rear of the vehicle)
013-545-76-26 MCP2.8 .5-1.0mm contact spring (directions call for a 014-545-82-26
MCP2.8 1.5-2.5mm but it was to big to fit so I stepped it down to the previous)
***Software update from dealer*** $150 hour labor charge (took them 3 hours to
figure it out, they had to go line by line to find the proper accessory to activate)
According to the author if this thread you can order an entire kit which comes
complete with the OEM hitch as well. I cannot speak to that because it’s not what
I did but you can view his thread and pictures of the process here. There is no
conclusion as to his success.
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49115&highlight=169-545-56-32
If you are attempting this you should have some decent knowledge of tools and workmanship I will try not
to be vague but most of this was very self-explanatory… Start to finish will all parts and several beers on
hand I would say this is at most a 90 minute install
The wiring harness has a female plug socket on one end with a long attachment of wire to the other end, the
wire appears to be long enough for a 170 or a 144, I installed on my 144 and had several loops at both the
front and back of the van. The female plug and the plug socket go together at the back of the van.
Remove the drivers seat and fish the female plug down through the rubber boot in the floor. Route the cable
however you deem appropriate to the back of the van. I left about 24” extra at the back and there is easily
just as much looped under the seat. Secure appropriately.
Now you are left with 5 bundles of wire
1 Wiring harness
2 CAN bus line
3 terminal 54 cable
4 terminal 15 cable
4a plug contact terminal 15
5a cable bridge terminal 30
5b plug contact terminal 30
5c plug contact terminal 30
6 terminal 30 cable
7a cable bridge terminal 30
6b plug contact terminal 30
8 lines for terminal 31
9 trailer brake control unit line.
10 trailer module plugs.
Cable number 6 gets routed to the battery prefuse box. (disconnect the battery) remove the black battery
cover unhook the prefuse block from the positive terminal. Insert the 80amp mini ANL fuse then attach and
tighten using nuts.
Cable number 5 has 3 spade connectors at the end, one bridge and two that look the same. The bridge
connects fuse 14/15 then red/black goes into 15 and red/yellow goes into slot 14. There are red tabs on the
fuse blocks they need to be slid so they are unlocked before jamming them in there don’t forget to relock
them. By looking at the rest of the wires hooked up this should be fairly self-explanatory process.
INSERT 20amp fuse into 14 and 25amp fuse into slot 15
Cable number 4 has only one connection to be made. It plugs into slot 4 which already has power supplied
from the rest of the fuse block and inser 7.5 amp fuse into slot 4
Cable number 7 has two connections. 7a goes into slot 30 it is providing power to 7b, 7b red/yellow also
goes into slot 30 don’t get them mixed one is power supply through the fuse. Use a 30amp fuse in slot 30
Cable number 8 is the ground it should be obvious where to attach this, I had 3 other ground cables on a
stud that I attached it with.
Cable number 9 is the trailer brake controller plug… ignore it unless you are installing a brake controller. If
you are installing a brake controller reference Thread https://sprintersource.
com/forum/showthread.php?t=2088&highlight=Trailer+brake+controler+install
Plug in the sockets to your trailer module, they only go one way.
At this point you should be done under the seat. Route the 2 remaining cables (2 & 3) out the inside of the
seat with the power cable because they will be going up under the dash. Secure everything under the seat
and feel free to reinstall if you are confident with your work.
Route cables 2/3 as appropriate to get up under the dash, cable 2 has two connections to be made to the
CAN bus at the A pillar, cable 3 violet/black is attaching to the SAM.
2-pin brown and brown/red gets pugged in on CAN bus
Detach the multiplug from the SAM from slot C1. Attach plug contact to line for terminal 54 and fit into
contact cavity 15 of multiplug
Attachments
-
479.5 KB Views: 358