code 2513-001 help

jumpandski

New member
I have a 2007 sprinter with 80K miles on it. It sat this winter for about 3 months while i was gone. Now i have dtc code 2513-001 M72 "intake port shutoff actuator positioner signal fault". I have no other codes or errors. I have taken the air box, tubo hose off and gotten down to the actuator. I unplugged it and plugged it back in while the key was in accessory. I could feel the motor running or at least vibration of it engaging

People mention moving the linkage manually but i cant see the linkage. How do i do this. I have taken off the fuel filter but that did not seem to help. I also see a lot of posts about cleaning the intake using sea foam or other treatments. Most of those posts involve other codes which i am not getting.

I am using a icarsoft mb2 scanner.

Thank everyone.
 

Rob S

2018 Navion 24G IQ on 2016 Sprinter
AFAIK, very few people solve this without replacing the intake manifolds.

On mine a similar code occurred because of an apparent sensor error (per dealer diagnosis), and it ran quite fine for some time after the code first occurred. Sometimes it would clear for a while, and then come back.

Pretty much the only other way to solve it, is to get the GDE tune, which has been well and sufficiently discussed elsewhere.
 
I have a 2007 sprinter with 80K miles on it. It sat this winter for about 3 months while i was gone. Now i have dtc code 2513-001 M72 "intake port shutoff actuator positioner signal fault". I have no other codes or errors. I have taken the air box, tubo hose off and gotten down to the actuator. I unplugged it and plugged it back in while the key was in accessory. I could feel the motor running or at least vibration of it engaging

People mention moving the linkage manually but i cant see the linkage. How do i do this. I have taken off the fuel filter but that did not seem to help. I also see a lot of posts about cleaning the intake using sea foam or other treatments. Most of those posts involve other codes which i am not getting.

I am using a icarsoft mb2 scanner.

Thank everyone.
Did you get this resolved? I just started getting this code and am not sure where to start. Do not want to replace intake manifolds if it can be cleaned and free’d up to function correctly again. The only video I see online that indicates where this sensor is isn’t on a sprinter, but another Mercedes is it under the turbo on the sprinter?
 

turbo911

Well-known member
the only other way is to replace intake manifolds. the cannot be reused in most cases. the actuator motor is underneath and oil dribbles on it and shorts it out or the sensor on the passenger side goes fongu. the resistor tricks the ecm into thinking the actuator is working. the actual linkage will stay in the open position when you disconnect the sensor
 
Just tried this and sprinter is running worse than before. The code went away, but idle is all over the place and power comes and goes. Any ideas?
 

220817a

Independent & Self Reliant - From Chattanooga TN
Just tried this and sprinter is running worse than before. The code went away, but idle is all over the place and power comes and goes. Any ideas?
The resistor solution does not work... Don't waste your time. On your CDI4 Sprinter, you need to deactivate 7 codes from the DTC table of the control engine and after that physically unplug the EKAS actuator motor, and you will be set. A programmer is required in order to do the job.
 
Well, I hate to get in the middle of a good mechanic argument, but I went back out to put everything back together and noticed that the resistor had a lot of movement inside the sensor plug. I doubled the leads up and tried it again. Low and behold, it is working, just like the YouTube guy said it would. I’m definitely not seeing this as a long term solution, but if it lasts until I can wrap my head around replacing the intake manifolds (probably around Christmas when I have time off), do I risk doing damage to the van?
 
Well, I hate to get in the middle of a good mechanic argument, but I went back out to put everything back together and noticed that the resistor had a lot of movement inside the sensor plug. I doubled the leads up and tried it again. Low and behold, it is working, just like the YouTube guy said it would. I’m definitely not seeing this as a long term solution, but if it lasts until I can wrap my head around replacing the intake manifolds (probably around Christmas when I have time off), do I risk doing damage to the van?
Update: van IS running well, but now I’m throwing codes (2953,2952) for the left and right EKAS position sensors. I’m thinking this is a result of unplugging the sensor which the YouTube guy didn’t mention, but that Dima 74 is referring to.
 

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