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bumpydog
02-25-2009, 10:37 AM
The turbo on my 2002 311 CDi (2.2) decided to self-destruct last week (great James Bond smoke-screen impression!!). Following replacement, the deposited oil in the exhaust took a long time to clear but the van still has a problem. It appears to be going into 'limp-home' mode and, when it does this, the LOD display on my Scangauge II shows a max of 55%. My local garage put their generic scanner on the car (before my new Scangauge arrived) and got a code P1470, which he thinks is EGR related. I'm not getting any codes showing on the Scangauge now when it goes into limp-home mode.

Anyone have any ideas?

I have always been disappointed with the performance of this van (vs my 312D 2.9) and the lack of power/torque is probably the single biggest cause of my recent clutch demise when towing. I'm now starting to seriously look at finding a replacement. Unfortunately, not many options when it comes to 4x4 17 seaters.

Malcolm

bumpydog
02-25-2009, 10:43 AM
Meant to add...the limp-home mode clears for a while after restarting the engine. Does this point towards the ~100 second timer for EGR activation?

Malcolm

talkinghorse43
02-25-2009, 03:17 PM
Don't know why the LHM, but, since it's a UK model, does it even have an EGR system? The reason I ask is because we've heard from 2 EU owners (mean in green, steinarN) that theirs of similar vintage don't have EGR. Theirs aren't the 4 pot engines (theirs are 5 cylinder 2.7L), but it seems strange the 4 pot would if theirs don't.

BTW, how did the turbo self-destruct? What was the problem? Did any pieces enter the engine?

bumpydog
02-25-2009, 07:09 PM
Hmmm, interesting. I *thought* it had an EGR but maybe not. Just checked the WIS documentation again (closer this time) and it says that the EGR applies to engine 647.981 (2.7?) for Canadian, US and Mexican markets. No mention of my engine (611.981), or European markets.

Back to square one.....

Malcolm

mean_in_green
02-25-2009, 07:53 PM
Evening Malcolm,

Next I would check for a leak in the vacuum circuit, which affects the turbo operation, and also check the wiring to see if it's rubbing somewhere (there are a few prone spots, notably near the battery tray, around the back of the engine and the wire which runs infront of the radiator). Also investigate to see if you've got a crusty connector somewhere.

There are a couple of giveaway clues of a leak in the vac circuit: with engine running get someone to repeatedly press the recirc button on the heater control panel whilst you look down the blower air intake under the bonnet. You should see the flap opening and closing down there (motionless flap = not conclusive but indicative of leak in circuit (assuming flap servo not awol...)). Or, beg / borrow / steal a vacuum gauge to create a vacuum with the engine off and observe for leaks using reading. Piece the clues together.

The most infuriating similar event I have had was a hole in the hard vac line causing by rubbing against the chassis rail. It was almost impossible to locate as the hole had worn through the concealed side. It took five hours to find it...

Also, has it had a vacuum transducer in recent times? I think I'm on my fourth now.

bumpydog
02-27-2009, 08:44 AM
Thanks for the pointers. It's back in with my local tame mechanic, who replaced the turbo and has all the necessary tools. Hopefully, he'll find something. I still wish that I had a 5-cyl 2.7 engine but not sure how easy a swap it is.

Malcolm

mean_in_green
02-27-2009, 09:31 AM
It's doable, but don't underestimate the amount of work. You'd really be looking for a written off donor vehicle, ideally one with side or rear damage etc. (i.e. not the front). Sourcing parts from different suppliers will just make it an almighty headache: it's not just the engine, you'd need to swap the ECU / SKREEM & WSP modules / Dash module / Ignition barrel as these are all different to the four cylinder and uniquely matched to each other. The loom is different, but you'd probably buy a new engine one anyway. Also need a radiator fan, plus a list of other bits.

A like for like engine swap is ten hours. I reckon you'd need forty to fifty hours to convert to five cylinders.

But then if you found a suitable donor vehicle at the right money...