Hi all, I'm a new to this forum but really needed in help fighting with limp mode in my '12 sprinter 170" ext, that have 203k miles on it. Everything started about two month ago with bad oil cooler. I was far away from home and took it to the best shop in area (how I was think) and tell them to check what kind of oil in my coolant, whom after few hours said that I have a bad radiator and there is a trans fluid in coolant so they flush a tranny and put the new radiator for almost 3k, that of course didn't solve a problem( I was new to this car so I didn't know that it was an oil cooler bad yet). So I get back on the road, and because of a new radiator that has a small thin tube at the top of it engine pressure was so high ( oil cooler was still bad) so it just blow that rubber and overheat the engine until I realize that I'm loosing speed and pulled of the freeway. I made it back home, filling it from time to time with oil and coolant ( I fixed a hole in radiator myself) and start to work on the cooler. In procces I saw two bad glow plugs and a little of oil where the turbo intake is so I decided to change plugs and a cartridge in turbo so I'll not be going back to repairs in I while, thermostat was bad too because of the rubber that was eaten by hot oil with coolant mix, so I replaced it too. All the gaskets was new and a job was did not in rush so it seems to me that there will be no problems soon. After that I flushed the coolant system for a whole day, change oil, put new air and fuel filters in it and go back on the road. Car was driving fine, no codes, nothing for first 600 miles. And then limp mode. First it was from time to time, made 10k miles from that, but now its gone really bad, first uphill gives you limp mode. Checked all of possible things, replaced all of the sensors for boost, air, exhaust, cleaned exhaust, did boost leak test, replace turbo actuator, got 08' sprinter with same engine that was running good( for parts) to check parts (switched all the parts from there). Was chasing that under boost condition ( limp mode) for a month and a half now, any suggestions about that?
Limp mode p0299
- Thread starter Neoni
- Start date
lindenengineering
Well-known member
Well Neoni
It must first have a scanner put on it to read codes and live date with KOEO amd KOER to see that is going on!
Yes you have an under boost condition base up your P code quote .
Sounds like you have thrown a lot of parts at it which might or might not be right!
Due to the magnitude of the problems, have you contemplated taking the rig to an expert for a full diagnostic analysis ?
Cost will be about $150 for a full run down of the issues you face?
Dennis
Mechanic
It must first have a scanner put on it to read codes and live date with KOEO amd KOER to see that is going on!
Yes you have an under boost condition base up your P code quote .
Sounds like you have thrown a lot of parts at it which might or might not be right!
Due to the magnitude of the problems, have you contemplated taking the rig to an expert for a full diagnostic analysis ?
Cost will be about $150 for a full run down of the issues you face?
Dennis
Mechanic
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You probably get me wrong, I've already visited 3 god repair shops that works on sprinter and
, scanning, testing, nothing there: low boost, high boost, turbo actuator faulty (I replace it)lindenengineering
Well-known member
OKYou probably get me wrong, I've already visited 3 god repair shops that works on sprinter and
But do you have a copies of the work orders with the print outs of the fault diagnosis in each case .
Frankly without a detailed overview, or a fresh scan of current live data it is very hard to pick the fault out by guessing. This type of guessing activity leads to shotgunning the repair activity & replacing parts that don't need to be replaced in the vain hope that you get it right!
What shops did you take it to?
Who were they?
What scan tool did they have to locate the fault(s).
Where theses scan tools adequate to fully interrogate the van?
If you want forums members like myself to help you there has to be some additional information as I have spelled out to lead you in the right direction.
All the best
Dennis
Thanks for reply again
Car was in repair shop for week or so where a guy put it to a computer with all Mercedes diagnostics, don't know what was that bug through that we check all the systems by testing, drive it with that checking live data, all the adaptations was done, check every system for failure.
That shop do a lot of sprinters, they have all the scan tools that required for those vehicles, and it's not the first sprinter that they work to, but still limp mode after some driving.
The funny thing is that you can drive it whole day and it's fine but sometimes he can shut off even when you accelerating from stop sign.
Sorry I don't have all the prints from diagnostics but I'm sure that tools was Mercedes, specifically for them with all the prints and pictures.
It was auto logic tablet, another one software on PC
Car was in repair shop for week or so where a guy put it to a computer with all Mercedes diagnostics, don't know what was that bug through that we check all the systems by testing, drive it with that checking live data, all the adaptations was done, check every system for failure.
That shop do a lot of sprinters, they have all the scan tools that required for those vehicles, and it's not the first sprinter that they work to, but still limp mode after some driving.
The funny thing is that you can drive it whole day and it's fine but sometimes he can shut off even when you accelerating from stop sign.
Sorry I don't have all the prints from diagnostics but I'm sure that tools was Mercedes, specifically for them with all the prints and pictures.
It was auto logic tablet, another one software on PC
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lindenengineering
Well-known member
Well it sounds on face face of it like boost pressure leak or a badly fitting hose adapter on the turbo suction pipe.
My suggestion would be to have someone either smoke the intake, better still do a pressure tests on the intake system and not exceed 30 psi
Or do a stall tests with an assistant looking and listening for charge leaks.
Dennis
My suggestion would be to have someone either smoke the intake, better still do a pressure tests on the intake system and not exceed 30 psi
Or do a stall tests with an assistant looking and listening for charge leaks.
Dennis
Waiting for a guy to do smoke test and boost test again right now
I was doing a simple boost test before but wanna make sure there is no leaks at all
I'm still thinking that I did something wrong reapplying all back together after oil cooler repair, if there will be no leaks I'll go back to oil cooler again (take all the parts out and build up again)
I was thinking about worn rings on cylinders after overheating that brings too much air into that breather hose on top of the engine and make an "elephant mode" to it this morning and he was running fine for now (just did 25 miles). What you think?
I was doing a simple boost test before but wanna make sure there is no leaks at all
I'm still thinking that I did something wrong reapplying all back together after oil cooler repair, if there will be no leaks I'll go back to oil cooler again (take all the parts out and build up again)
I was thinking about worn rings on cylinders after overheating that brings too much air into that breather hose on top of the engine and make an "elephant mode" to it this morning and he was running fine for now (just did 25 miles). What you think?
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lindenengineering
Well-known member
If you have someone available with a scanner have them first check the four main sensors in data mode KOEO
They should all be within 25 HPa of each other and the ambient temp senor reading more or less what is the outside air temp today.
Dennis
They should all be within 25 HPa of each other and the ambient temp senor reading more or less what is the outside air temp today.
Dennis
So...
New turbo solve the problem. Ordered brand new turbo by part number and when it comes I realized that it has a BIG difference with old one
Where the exhaust outlet
old and new
So here is a difference
Both fit but on the old turbo exhaust gases was half passing the turbo and new one all the exhaust goes thru turbo?
Am I right?
Another question is: on the om642 (v6 3.0l) engine fuel!pressure solenoid is the same as on the older model 2.7l or is there any difference? Because mine stuck so I just pull the part from 2.7l engine and put in mine( fits OK), but got a code p0191 that mean - Fuel pressure sensor circuit range/performance.
Car runs OK, to compare with old turbo feels like more power but I still thinking about that fuel pressure solenoid.
Any advice on this?
New turbo solve the problem. Ordered brand new turbo by part number and when it comes I realized that it has a BIG difference with old one
Where the exhaust outlet
So here is a difference
Both fit but on the old turbo exhaust gases was half passing the turbo and new one all the exhaust goes thru turbo?
Am I right?
Another question is: on the om642 (v6 3.0l) engine fuel!pressure solenoid is the same as on the older model 2.7l or is there any difference? Because mine stuck so I just pull the part from 2.7l engine and put in mine( fits OK), but got a code p0191 that mean - Fuel pressure sensor circuit range/performance.
Car runs OK, to compare with old turbo feels like more power but I still thinking about that fuel pressure solenoid.
Any advice on this?
Cheyenne
UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Your link didn't show up any images...So...
New turbo solve the problem. Ordered brand new turbo by part number and when it comes I realized that it has a BIG difference with old one
Where the exhaust outlet
old and new
So here is a difference
Both fit but on the old turbo exhaust gases was half passing the turbo and new one all the exhaust goes thru turbo?
http://imgur.com/a/iLOkZ
Keith.
Was trying to find some info but unfortunately, so will try to post here my question:
So recently my steering become a little loose on speeds over 50+ mph
It’s not always loose but feels very unsafe. So the rack and pinion doesn’t have any play in it, but when you drive on freeway steering should be harder, like you feel that steering wheel is hard to turn, and mine is getting loose from time to time, it’s like you can drive hour straight and everything ok, and sometimes you just want to change line and your steering gets you way over line, like you can’t catch the van on the road
Alignment was done, pressure in tires checking every day, tires good and suspension all good and tight
Having a thought on stuck pressure valve in power steering pump, but want to hear from people maybe somebody had same problem or know anything about that
So recently my steering become a little loose on speeds over 50+ mph
It’s not always loose but feels very unsafe. So the rack and pinion doesn’t have any play in it, but when you drive on freeway steering should be harder, like you feel that steering wheel is hard to turn, and mine is getting loose from time to time, it’s like you can drive hour straight and everything ok, and sometimes you just want to change line and your steering gets you way over line, like you can’t catch the van on the road
Alignment was done, pressure in tires checking every day, tires good and suspension all good and tight
Having a thought on stuck pressure valve in power steering pump, but want to hear from people maybe somebody had same problem or know anything about that