View Full Version : T1N owner buying high mileage NCV#. Questions...

Lizard 1
03-11-2017, 06:12 PM
I have done some searching and unfortunately, a ton of data and nothing really telling me details.

I have a T1N currently and the new owner should be taking her home this weekend. That being said, I have a 2007 2500 I am looking at buying. The issue is miles. It has 400k on the ticker. BUUUUUT... He has replaced almost everything. Turbo, struts, rotors, blah, blah, blah. Runs like it is only around 50k.

So my questions are:

1) EGR delete? Read on here about it all. Owner says he doesn't know anything about it. Any way to tell? Is this something I should do?

2) Will these motors sustain use beyond 400k if it has been maintained and wear/tear items such as he has replaced are newer? I feel like if he has replaced a lot of things due to timing out or replaced under wear/tear, it should last.

3) Anything I need to look at? Obvious issues aside, anything I may not see that if I specifically look for, can tell if something bad looms or something has been done?

Mine has 350k. Been solid. Been trust worthy. Been reliable. But, it was well maintained prior to me and by me. I just feel that if a guy has got the parts when needed, it should be the same. I just want to make sure I am buying the right vehicle. I want to know what to look for.

Thanks in advance.

Rob S
03-11-2017, 06:35 PM
If it runs like a top, and its cheap enough, I might go for it, the question is what is cheap enough??

At that kind of mileage, most anything can go wrong at any time, and you need a reserve to deal with those things.

If and when you have EGR or Swirl Valve problems these can be cured with the GDE tune, read all about it on here and on their website.

DPF might need to be replaced. Transmission could go at any time, or it could lst for another 100 or more, who knows.

On the other hand, if the body is good, tires and brakes and battery and belts are good, then you might be OK for quite a while.

Gotta wonder why they are selling it.

Could always pay for an inspection at an MB dealer, scan for codes, etc.

Lizard 1
03-11-2017, 09:40 PM
Is there anything I need to look at or ask if was done that may pop up? Again, heard EGR mentioned and wanted to see what that entailed...

03-11-2017, 10:56 PM
Sounds much like my Sprinter, '07 with 270K miles. Came with new oversize tires on black powder coated rims, new battery, all fluids changed (except brake fluid which I had done at MB dealer), new turbo, swirl valve, engine and trans oil pan gaskets, new windshield and wiper blades, other plumbing parts on engine. Prior owner had LHM problems, said the last sensor replaced fixed it, said he had gone on to other interests and was tired of spending money on it. As has been said anything may go wrong with high millage. Runs like a Banshee when not on LMH. Still working on that. Cleaned the EGR last weekend, was stuck closed (if stuck open the GDE tune will not fix it) but cleaning the EGR is up is no real problem with the help of this group). Now I'm coding for DPF. I'm returning to the dealer whom I think I have persuaded to continue their $330 analysis that I paid for on my last visit when they didn't fix it. They may try another forced regen. If they say I have to have another DPF I will bid them fairwell and get the darn thing cut out and replaced with straight pipe. A new tune will be required. We do not have tail pipe inspections in our state. Running on LHM puts far more soot in the atmosphere than a well tuned diesel will at 80% or lower LOD (load on engine). Bottom line for me is the body is great, motor seems sound and I will be keeping it and not unhappy that I bought it. It tracks well and handles OK since I put red Koni's on and an anti roll sway bar. Just my :2cents:


Rob S
03-11-2017, 11:41 PM
EGR stuck open is a new one on me, I can see how that would be a major problem trying to run on 100% exhaust fumes.

I think that is a bit of an unusual circumstance, as the spring return tries to close it.

Is there anything I need to look at or ask if was done that may pop up?

Pretty much all of the above-mentioned bits, but its hard to tell if you don't know how and where to look, exactly.

That is why I suggested a Dealer inspection, some will do this for a couple of hundred bucks, well worth it.

03-13-2017, 04:37 AM
(if stuck open the GDE tune will not fix it)

I don't understand it either but that is what I understood Keith to say. The prior owner had bought the tune but said it was not on the van, perhaps removed to have a dealer look at it. I did not install the GDE tune after getting the van because I was working with the MB dealer. I may not have ever gone to them but after picking up the van in Dallas the brakes scared me to death. I had a good trip to Shreveport, Louisiana and stopped by the dealer to have the brakes inspected and the brakes bled as the PO had not mentioned it having been done. When THEY test drove it after doing the work the van went into LHM for the first time since I bought it (350 miles ago). It was closing time so after 30 min. of analysis they asked me to bring it back the next day. Only the brake bleed was charged. Took me a while to get back and in the meantime the exhaust which did not have a tail pipe fell to the pavement on interstate hwy. When I had a tail pipe fabricated and installed the installer pointed out to me that a connection in front of the DEF was missing wires and the two rubber tubes emanating from the DEF were dry rotted and not connected. I made it back to the dealer and hoped that was my LHM problem. The dealer fixed that and did a forced regen. Things looked good and I ran home (about 75 miles) at 75 and 80 mph and the first time I slowed down and took a sharp 90 deg. turn it went back into LHM. &%*$#! Next and most recent trip to dealer I plopped down $330 for an analysis (first time I paid for one), they changed out all the seals in the turbo exhaust system down to the metal pipe on the right side of the engine. Test drove it and said it was fixed. I said to myself, yeah-sure, drove it two miles before it went back into LHM. Drove it back, they stopped what they were doing and started analyzing again. After a while I went back to the shop and asked how it was going - Greg, their top wrench, said it was leaning toward the EGR valve. Knowing I had the GDE tune at home, said to myself, not going there. Told Greg I had the GDE tune at home which would bypass the EGR valve and I wanted to try that. He said OK and I left. Called Keith about installing the tune and that's when Keith told me it doesn't always fix the problem and would not if the valve was open. With Keith's help I installed the tune but didn't cure my LHM problem. I took the EGR valve out. It was stuck in the CLOSED position, I cleaned it thoroughly with Simple Green and reinstalled it. Now the van codes for dirty DPF and I have an appt back at the MB dealer to continue analysis. Ref: previous post.


03-13-2017, 05:03 PM
I have had a 2004 144, 2006 shc, 2007 144. I would at any time take a T1 over the nvc. Unless you need that extra power thier is no reasoning. However read the problems, especially egr emmissions and electrical. They will come and haunt you out of alot of funds and work time. I am at 390k on my 2007, been down for the slow winter hoping all the maintenence will give her a second breath. T1s rule.