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View Full Version : Is it hard changing the transmission fluid?


jim1071
03-10-2017, 09:40 PM
I have unfortunately have a 2013 sprinter 2500

can not find what transmission oil to use or how much or how many litres

DEALER only ,,,,,,,

I have 288,000 km on the van in three years (not raced on a track)

I change the transmission fluid on the chev and ford every 80,000 km

jim

sunnyside
03-11-2017, 01:50 AM
Shell 134. 7.5 quarts, that includes draining the torque converter.

sailquik
03-11-2017, 02:31 AM
+1 on hat sunnyside posted, if you have a USA/CAN specification Sprinter.
You have the 5G-Tronic (5 speed) automatic transmission Model 722.683.
The Options Code is:
G40 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
In addition to the fluid, you will need a transmission oil pan gasket and a special hex bit tool to get the
plug out of the torque converter so it can drain.
Also a good time to change the trans electrical connector as many of them leak if you do not have the
latest version of the "O" Ring seals. The new connector with the latest O'rings is not expensive and it's
easier to change without any loss of fluid when the transmission is fully drained.
If you have some other transmission, let us know.
Hope this helps,
Roger

Aqua Puttana
03-11-2017, 12:17 PM
To my knowledge it is a bit more difficult than my T1N's (some structure is in the way), but is not bad DIY.

I agree that Shell 134 ATFIII MB236.14 spec is a good choice for the OM642 V6 diesel NAG1 transmission service. The price can be very good when purchased in case lots (12 ea.) from industrial suppliers as opposed to pricing at most auto parts stores or dealerships.

There are some Write-ups.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11285

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32881

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31466

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7001

:cheers: vic

CJPJ
03-11-2017, 01:08 PM
In my case a small Allen wrench was used to remove and replace the torque converters drain plug ((lock-tight, I applied heat to loosen)).
The ("some structure in they way") only applies to the 3500;
it's the 3500s crossmember. I attained the need extra 1 inch clearance by removing the transmissions rear bolt and wedged the trans up from the crossmember.
Some choose to remove the crossmember; doing that gives more access to install the filter.

jim1071
03-11-2017, 01:30 PM
+1 on hat sunnyside posted, if you have a USA/CAN specification Sprinter.
You have the 5G-Tronic (5 speed) automatic transmission Model 722.683.
The Options Code is:
G40 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
In addition to the fluid, you will need a transmission oil pan gasket and a special hex bit tool to get the
plug out of the torque converter so it can drain.
Also a good time to change the trans electrical connector as many of them leak if you do not have the
latest version of the "O" Ring seals. The new connector with the latest O'rings is not expensive and it's
easier to change without any loss of fluid when the transmission is fully drained.
If you have some other transmission, let us know.
Hope this helps,
Roger

Shell oil for the 2013

So I have to pull a pan off to drain
New gasket
No drain plug

Where does the oil go in

Is there a dipstick for transmission

Jim

vnvet
03-11-2017, 02:19 PM
Shell oil for the 2013

So I have to pull a pan off to drain
New gasket
No drain plug

Where does the oil go in

Is there a dipstick for transmission

Jim

Just had mine done at a local 5 star tranny shop. Bought my parts wholesale to save a few bucks. Also bought the tranny fluid "check tool" aka dipstick so I can check it periodically if I want between changes, NOT to be left in place of the filler tube cap. Eight quarts Amsoil ATLQT $8.75 Qt. used exactly 7.5

The tranny shop put it on the hoist, dropped the pan, no drain plug messing around (I would have done the plug like most DIY's) then drained the TC. Tech hot steamed cleaned the pan, he also opened up the filter for inspection and to my surprise it was almost perfect with very little material, the magnet was also very clean and the fluid was not bad either again to my surprise. I expected the conditions to be worse since my service records showed a lapse in service with over 100K between changes.

The dealer quoted me 800.00+
An independent shop 760.00 with my own trans fluid.

Total time 2 hours and $97.50. WHAT ?? Yep. He said, standard tranny service is 97.50 labor. There's no way I am going to do my own from that point forward on my Sprinter and will do them every 24k at that cost.

If you have a highly rated tranny shop in your area, you might ask them if they do Sprinters and how much for standard trans service w/TC and if they don't mind installing your parts.

talkinghorse43
03-11-2017, 02:33 PM
The tranny is amazing. Just did my fluid/filter change after 50k miles elapsed (now 366k) and found the same. When I look at the filter after every change, it gets cleaner and cleaner.

Aqua Puttana
03-11-2017, 02:45 PM
The tranny is amazing. Just did my fluid/filter change after 50k miles elapsed (now 366k) and found the same. When I look at the filter after every change, it gets cleaner and cleaner.

... he also opened up the filter for inspection and to my surprise it was almost perfect with very little material, the magnet was also very clean and the fluid was not bad either again to my surprise. I expected the conditions to be worse since my service records showed a lapse in service with over 100K between changes.

...
Using my 50 - 60,000 tranny fluid OCI I don't bother with a new filter every time anymore. TC and pan drain, good to go. I know that a filter change every other OCI is ok and conservative. Coming up I'm leaving the 2004 filter as is for the 2nd no filter fluid cycle. I'm not worried at all.

My 2004 - 2006 transmission filter was sized for the "change once and never again" program. (What were they thinking?) It must have been a bit over-sized with that program in mind. Back when I did drop the pan my donut magnet showed less and less accumulation with each subsequent change. My other brand vehicles had 100,000 mile tranny OCI.

...If you have a highly rated tranny shop in your area, you might ask them if they do Sprinters and how much for standard trans service w/TC and if they don't mind installing your parts.
Great advice. :thumbup:

vic

talkinghorse43
03-11-2017, 02:50 PM
I like to look at the filter every time to get a "heads-up" on tranny condition.

vnvet
03-11-2017, 02:52 PM
The tranny is amazing. Just did my fluid/filter change after 50k miles elapsed (now 366k) and found the same. When I look at the filter after every change, it gets cleaner and cleaner.

That's a good sign of longevity. If I can get another 125k from my 2013 w/o any horror stories like so many seem to have, I'll be pleased with my $ 20k investment.

sailquik
03-11-2017, 02:58 PM
Hi Jim:
"Shell oil for the 2013?"
Yes, the recommended Shell 134 ATFIII MB236.14 spec is about the best easily
available fluid.
Better still, get the genuine MB BEVO 236.14 fluid in the MB white bottles at your
nearest MB Sprinter dealer.
It's very important to the performance and service life of your transmission to use
the correct specification fluid.
Rebuilt trans cost is ~$5,000 with installation.

"So I have to pull a pan off to drain?"
No, there is a drain plug on the LH side of the transmission that you can
use to drain the majority of the fluid and not make a mess trying to drop
the trans oil pan full of fluid.
You have to pull the pan to change the transmission fluid FILTER!

"New gasket?"
For sure....best to get the genuine MB part numbered gasket at your nearest MB
Sprinter dealer. Take your VIN # with you as all Sprinter parts are indexed/classified to the
VIN #.

"No drain plug?"
There is a drain plug, on the trans pan, and another (kind of hard to find/get at) on
the torque convertor outer casing/housing/rotating element.

"Where does the oil go in?"
Use a small dia. trans fluid funnel to pour the new transmission fluid down into the
transmission through the trans dipstick tube.
You will need to break the red locking tab/pin/device to get the top cover off the
dipstick tube. The replacement red lock is available for cheap.

"Is there a dipstick for transmission?"
Absolutely!
Here's a popular link:
http://europarts-sd.com/2002-2009transmissionservicedipstick.asp
You can get the whole "trans fluid change kit":
http://europarts-sd.com/2002-2009automatictransmissionservicekit-fuchs.asp
The genuine MB part numbered dipstick is available for ~$55.00 at your nearest
MB Sprinter dealer.
Hope this helps,
Roger

Aqua Puttana
03-11-2017, 03:11 PM
Actually the rubber pan seal was designed for re-use. I've been re-using mine without problems. That said, a new seal is included with some transmission filters.

vic

vnvet
03-11-2017, 03:57 PM
Using my 50 - 60,000 tranny fluid OCI I don't bother with a new filter every time anymore. TC and pan drain, good to go. I know that a filter change every other OCI is ok and conservative. Coming up I'm leaving the 2004 filter as is for the 2nd no filter fluid cycle. I'm not worried at all.

My 2004 - 2006 transmission filter was sized for the "change once and never again" program. (What were they thinking?) It must have been a bit over-sized with that program in mind. Back when I did drop the pan my donut magnet showed less and less accumulation with each subsequent change. My other brand vehicles had 100,000 mile tranny OCI.


Great advice. :thumbup:

vic

The Amsoil synthetic is designed for extended intervals and I know I can go further and maybe I will after another 25k drain and inspect since it's not a huge cost for preventative maintenance. It's a daily workhorse, 100 miles/day RT normally. I have been told by more than one Sprinter Mech., since mine was previously used as a daily transport rig 280+ daily highway miles RT five days a week with LOTS of service and scheduled 10k maintenance done, all the "bugs, repairs and such" were done by previous owner.

Glad I didn't get a "city driver"..

talkinghorse43
03-11-2017, 08:04 PM
The Amsoil synthetic is designed for extended intervals..

BUT, it isn't tested and approved by Daimler for your transmission (see 236.14 on Bevo). Personally, I don't see the need to take the risk.

smiller
03-11-2017, 08:46 PM
BUT, it isn't tested and approved by Daimler for your transmission (see 236.14 on Bevo). Personally, I don't see the need to take the risk.
Yes, I don't see any reason whatsoever for using a product without a specific 236.14 rating. There's a lot of potential downside to experimenting with fluid and virtually no upside, so... why? There will be no significant difference in service life between alternates and any quality (Shell, Fuchs, MB, etc.) 236.14 product.


.

mataei
01-28-2019, 04:52 AM
I Know im bumping this thread, but where do i put the new oil in?

and when the torque converter is empty, if i pour in the trans fluid through the dipstick and i crank the engine, will it harm the torque converter?

mikeme
01-28-2019, 10:27 AM
I Know im bumping this thread, but where do i put the new oil in?

and when the torque converter is empty, if i pour in the trans fluid through the dipstick and i crank the engine, will it harm the torque converter?

as stated earlier, use a funnel to pour new fluid down the dipstick (aka indicator) tube.

the pan will not hold a full tranny worth of fluid (below the bottom of the indicator tube), so you may want to start the engine for a minute or so to let the pump in the transmission circulate fluid into the torque converter, and other parts of the transmission to make room for the last couple quarts.

if not, you will find the fluid will drain into the pan much slower (if you have a good seal between the funnel and tube top), or drain onto whatever you are parked on, not only making a mess, but complicating the process of insuring you have added the proper amount of fluid.

This will not harm the torque converter. It also will not harm the pump, as long as you keep it short,

4wheeldog
01-28-2019, 05:46 PM
The Amsoil synthetic is designed for extended intervals and I know I can go further and maybe I will after another 25k drain and inspect since it's not a huge cost for preventative maintenance. It's a daily workhorse, 100 miles/day RT normally. I have been told by more than one Sprinter Mech., since mine was previously used as a daily transport rig 280+ daily highway miles RT five days a week with LOTS of service and scheduled 10k maintenance done, all the "bugs, repairs and such" were done by previous owner.

Glad I didn't get a "city driver"..
The fluid wearing out is not the main concern that should prompt changing.
It is the contaminants in the fluid, that are not removed by the filter.
I am not a big believer in extending drain intervals with ATs, regardless of the fluid used.