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Blownglass
02-27-2017, 11:45 PM
So my 2006 just recently started to run rough this last 2 days . Just got back from the snow park this weekend. It took over an hour for it to warm up to temp. First of all. Then yesterday it started to take a bit longer to start. A couple cranks vs just instantly
I thought it may be the fuel filter. Changed it but no real difference. Got some sea foam in it today not sure if it will fix it . . Just had to replace the intake air temperature sensor. Last week it ran great .
Rough idle at stop light now .
And odd starting behavior.

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Brokecanadian
02-28-2017, 06:04 AM
So my 2006 just recently started to run rough this last 2 days . Just got back from the snow park this weekend. It took over an hour for it to warm up to temp. First of all. Then yesterday it started to take a bit longer to start. A couple cranks vs just instantly
I thought it may be the fuel filter. Changed it but no real difference. Got some sea foam in it today not sure if it will fix it . . Just had to replace the intake air temperature sensor. Last week it ran great .
Rough idle at stop light now .
And odd starting behavior.

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Does it lose power driving?

Extreme shot in the dark, I think this is pretty rare...had a rough idle and lost power on hills...traced it to the #1 cylinder injector wiring by manipulating the harness with the engine cover off

If you've got unexplained engine codes as well as shorted injector codes, that might be it...hard to tell unless you've got another clue, mine drove me crazy and I was convinced an injector was failing

Probably something else, but that was my experience

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SneakyAnarchistVanCamper
02-28-2017, 07:37 AM
Unplug MAF, does this fix it? You should have a scanner onboard, it really could be a bunch of different things.

talkinghorse43
02-28-2017, 02:10 PM
So my 2006 just recently started to run rough this last 2 days . Just got back from the snow park this weekend. It took over an hour for it to warm up to temp. First of all. Then yesterday it started to take a bit longer to start. A couple cranks vs just instantly
I thought it may be the fuel filter. Changed it but no real difference. Got some sea foam in it today not sure if it will fix it . . Just had to replace the intake air temperature sensor. Last week it ran great .
Rough idle at stop light now .
And odd starting behavior.

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Sounds like an injector might be bad. First sign for me for all 4 that have been replaced to-date was surging forward at idle in gear. Also, puffing at the end of the tailpipe at idle (a hand near the end will feel for that). Run the injector leakoff test to pinpoint the probable bad injector. Also, I'd look at the clarity of fuel by draining a little from the water in fuel drain - you might have picked up some cloudy (wet) fuel that's causing problems.

Blownglass
03-01-2017, 08:44 PM
Sounds like an injector might be bad. First sign for me for all 4 that have been replaced to-date was surging forward at idle in gear. Also, puffing at the end of the tailpipe at idle (a hand near the end will feel for that). Run the injector leakoff test to pinpoint the probable bad injector. Also, I'd look at the clarity of fuel by draining a little from the water in fuel drain - you might have picked up some cloudy (wet) fuel that's causing problems.
It does kind of surge at a stop .. doesn't lose power no codes praying for bad fuel.

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Seber
03-02-2017, 01:24 PM
Mine had the same problem when I bought it. I dropped in half a bottle of injector cleaner additive and it smoothed right out. Cheap easy fix if it works.

Aqua Puttana
03-02-2017, 02:54 PM
Mine had the same problem when I bought it. I dropped in half a bottle of injector cleaner additive and it smoothed right out. Cheap easy fix if it works.
I'll say it so others don't need to.

MERCEDES RECOMMENDS AGAINST SECONDARY FUEL ADDITIVES.

I added the BG 244 when my fuel gauge was a bit above 1/2 tank. I figure that to be roughly 13 - 15 gallons of fuel.

After 150 miles of running with the BG 244 it seems like my 2004 is now idling and running a bit smoother. That could be a placebo effect. What is not a placebo effect is that my latest cold weather starts no longer have the initial rough running and smoking. The engine starts normally.





So far it seems that the BG 244 diesel fuel additive has not destroyed my engine and may have actually helped some.

FWIW.

vic

Added: Reading some of the DPF discussions that mentioned high(er) RPM operation reminded me.

After adding the BG 244 to my 2004 I have been doing a bit of higher RPM driving by using lower gears. My thought was to keep the BG 244 conditioned (contaminated?) fuel flow through the injectors at a higher rate. Did it help? Would just driving and giving it the "thrash out" without the BG 244 have produced similar results? :idunno:

Well I suppose I have to confess I am sceptical of "snake oil" fixes!
But in this case the BG line of "fix in a can remedies", seems to work and add up to their claims.

So far as the 244 product is concerned I first used it as an experiement on my Missus' car a 2001 VW Jetta diesel. Now these beast are notorious for plugging up the EGR valve and inlet manifold.

A few 10,000 mile doses of it have kept the inlet tract clear and @ 200,000 Mls recorded of usual urban suburban driving the thing runs very clean and the E test center mentioned it had run very clean when it was last tested.

I was convinced to recommend it which I don't usually do that prefering to take Sailquick's position.

Cheers Dennis

...

Also once you are done add a can of BG's ATC plus transmission additive. Any abnormal burnishing of the lock up internal clutch will be smoothed out by this stuff.
All the best
Dennis

As always clicking on the blue arrow icon within any quote box will take you to the original post/thread.

:cheers: vic

Blownglass
03-05-2017, 09:24 PM
I have tried additives no help . Thought maybe it was choking for air. Put new air filter no change . Drives ok until I stop at light . Then is starts the UK and down idle and sometimes it knocks it is intermittent at times and other times it's every start and every stop light. I'm super confused

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Blownglass
03-05-2017, 09:25 PM
If I give it a little press on the accelerator just the slightest bit at a stop light it seems to smooth out

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Brokecanadian
03-05-2017, 09:28 PM
As was mentioned...if you're going to try and diagnose it yourself...try and borrow or buy a suitable Sprinter code reader...IMHO the sprinter is far too complex to guess

Did you perform the injector test?

While my MIL was not on, there were 42 trouble codes throughout my modules, helped me diagnose a bad engine harness

pacman_34
03-05-2017, 09:34 PM
bad injector most likely. get it checked out asap. a bad injector can damage a cylinder

Blownglass
03-05-2017, 09:52 PM
I have the icar soft Mercedes code reader .. there are no current codes

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Blownglass
03-05-2017, 09:54 PM
Didn't do injectors test.. any link to that procedure would be appreciated.im a few days into a road trip

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talkinghorse43
03-06-2017, 03:39 AM
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17149&highlight=injector

surlyoldbill
03-06-2017, 05:25 PM
Doesn't a failing or bad IAT cause this symptom? Or disconnected ambient air temp sensor (behind front license plate)?

talkinghorse43
03-06-2017, 07:53 PM
Doesn't a failing or bad IAT cause this symptom? Or disconnected ambient air temp sensor (behind front license plate)?

The OP reports no codes.

Blownglass
03-07-2017, 04:38 PM
Did the injectors leak down test. And all the injectors only put out about a 1/4 inch of fuel . 2 of them seemed to have no leak .

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Blownglass
03-10-2017, 06:38 PM
So I. Curious if a bad MAF will cause limp mode no boost

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lindenengineering
03-10-2017, 07:52 PM
Yes!
Disconnect it and drive the van, then determine what to do next based upon the performance.
Dennis

NelsonSprinter
03-11-2017, 04:50 AM
Yes, cleaning the inside with MAF spray cleaner can end LHM, or cleaning connection can end LHM too.

Aqua Puttana
03-11-2017, 01:46 PM
So I. Curious if a bad MAF will cause limp mode no boost

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MAF = Mass Air Flow aka Air Mass is closely monitored by the ECM aka ECU. If anything is amiss the turbo can/will be disabled. Often no MIL aka CEL is triggered.

The calculation/monitoring of the air mass uses many different inputs, not just the MAF sensor located on the air filter box. Off the top of my pointy little head the MAF sensor proper, ambient air temperature sensor, air filter box temperature sensor, air filter box pressure sensor, boost temperature sensor, boost pressure sensor, O2 sensor, EGR module, and some other inputs I'm likely forgetting all can affect the monitoring.

Unplugging the MAF sensor connector causes the ECM aka ECU to apply default values for the inputs. That is why unplugging that one sensor can return "normal" operation. For that reason just because more normal operation it doesn't necessarily pinpoint the MAF sensor as the culprit.

:cheers: vic

lindenengineering
03-11-2017, 01:56 PM
So before you get doing all that check your air filter !
If its Chinese toss it in the bin and buy a genuine filter --BUT HOLD ON --clean out the dust hopper section of the air filter casing first with a vacuum cleaner !

Of course all you blokes do that don't you!:hmmm:
Dennis

Aqua Puttana
03-11-2017, 02:03 PM
...

Of course all you blokes do that don't you!:hmmm:
Dennis
:thumbup::thumbup:

Yep.

vic

Blownglass
03-11-2017, 07:18 PM
Ok so I did get a MAF code. First cleaned it. No fix. Then I bought new one. Didn't fix problem. I still getting circuit A mass air flow code. Runs the same with or without the maf plugged in .... Crappy no boost and rough idle. I did notice in my data stream that I was getting zero voltage it o2 sensor .
My next item to replace is the o2 sensor. But damn this is driving me crazy . Any ideas as to what the hell is going on?

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Blownglass
03-12-2017, 09:15 PM
So I'm still having problems with my van. This forum can be good and bad due to all the possible options to a no boost problem with no code. Fix the cheap stuff first . But for me this is just giving me spare parts.
How can I definitely rule out my turbo as the problem . Without spending a fortune on all the other things that could be bad. I don't trust my Mercedes Benz dealership to give honest info they are kinda shady I think.

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autostaretx
03-12-2017, 09:59 PM
Some scanners (such as the DAD, which is, at heart, an early CarSoft (not iCarsoft) diagnostic unit, plus the dealer-level DRB-III) can exercise the turbo actuator travel range (it sweeps up and down from 5% to 95%).

Things like the DRB-III (and maybe the DAD, i haven't explored its deep nooks and crannies) can perform (or command to the Sprinter) a number of other test sequences. Some of the procedures require additional equipment (like oscilloscopes) to watch what else is happening throughout the system.
This document: https://sprinter-source.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83461&d=1488217562 is the "2004 powertrain diagnostics" manual ... it's keyed to DRB-III messages, but you can read the suggested sequence of operations for lack of boost.
Vic/AquaPuttana has posted dozens of Sprinter Technician Training Manual pages ... (but not much on boost) ... which give an idea of how detailed the technicians should be trained. You have the problem that MB didn't sell T1Ns in this country, so the local dealers don't have (much) "legacy knowledge" for that model line. Some Freightliner dealers do, but it's been over ten years since the last new one (and "keep up to date" training) went through a dealership as "new".

Or: find a service depot you can trust, like Dennis' LinDen shop in Colorado, or Dr Andy's place in South Carolina.

good luck
--dick (in the same boat, really, although some of the local seattle-area MB dealers reportedly have a decent rep for T1Ns)
((or at least have a compensating "fix it RIGHT and eventually make the customer happy" attitude))

Blownglass
03-12-2017, 11:38 PM
I have the icar soft reader . . I'm so frustrated with this .. I'm about to just get the turbo from Euro parts SD.
If it fixes it then awesome. If not then I have a spare. Since we all know they all fail eventually


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Blownglass
03-13-2017, 01:15 AM
Some scanners (such as the DAD, which is, at heart, an early CarSoft (not iCarsoft) diagnostic unit, plus the dealer-level DRB-III) can exercise the turbo actuator travel range (it sweeps up and down from 5% to 95%).

Things like the DRB-III (and maybe the DAD, i haven't explored its deep nooks and crannies) can perform (or command to the Sprinter) a number of other test sequences. Some of the procedures require additional equipment (like oscilloscopes) to watch what else is happening throughout the system.
This document: https://sprinter-source.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=83461&d=1488217562 is the "2004 powertrain diagnostics" manual ... it's keyed to DRB-III messages, but you can read the suggested sequence of operations for lack of boost.
Vic/AquaPuttana has posted dozens of Sprinter Technician Training Manual pages ... (but not much on boost) ... which give an idea of how detailed the technicians should be trained. You have the problem that MB didn't sell T1Ns in this country, so the local dealers don't have (much) "legacy knowledge" for that model line. Some Freightliner dealers do, but it's been over ten years since the last new one (and "keep up to date" training) went through a dealership as "new".

Or: find a service depot you can trust, like Dennis' LinDen shop in Colorado, or Dr Andy's place in South Carolina.

good luck
--dick (in the same boat, really, although some of the local seattle-area MB dealers reportedly have a decent rep for T1Ns)
((or at least have a compensating "fix it RIGHT and eventually make the customer happy" attitude))
What is this Dad ?where do I get one that will test my turbo?

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surlyoldbill
03-13-2017, 02:38 AM
what year van? If an 02-03, it's probably a bad EGR. Didn't you have another thread going?

Also, the cheap MAFs do not work, you have to get an actual Bosch. I tried the $50 aftermarket replacement and it did not work with the ECU (scanned with DAD and the "new" MAF was fried). Got a Bosch for $100-125 and it worked perfectly. In my case, all I had was CEL, the turbo and everything worked fine even with the CEL because of the bad MAF.

99 312D
03-13-2017, 03:37 AM
Check the MAF connector.
I had the same problem, long story short, one of the pins in the connector had slightly dislodged causing no voltage readings to be read on the ECU. Sooo My multimeter and ECU thought it's a faulty MAF, replaced it and still the same.
Make sure all three pins are in full contact, and give a good tug on all six wires to make sure wires are still in good contact with their pins. I was able to pull the sensor wire completely out! Re-crimped, re-seated and all was good. Also check the ECU end too.
Hope this helps.

Cheers.
John

autostaretx
03-13-2017, 03:57 AM
The DAD (Dr Andy Diagnostic (device)) was a limited gray-market import from some fleet maintenance facility in Europe.
There were only a few (100? fewer?) sold circa 2006 and 2007.
Some of us have them...there's a sub-forum on "who has scanners they'll use for you": https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9444

Here's the pointer to a map of members' scanners: https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16982

Hardware-wise the DAD was very very similar to the CarSoft $1500 system. CarSoft fell into disrepute due to lack of support.

Since the turbo-exercising is performed by the ECU, devices which know how to "speak Sprinter" would not have to access the other K-lines on the OBD socket to make it step through its paces. But they would have to know the weirdo codes, and MB charges $50,000 for that information (i'm not kidding)((but that price covers all MB models))
The CarSoft (hence DAD) developers did pony up that price....

--dick
p.s. where are you? If it was in your avatar block or signature, folks with local scanners might speak up.
(i think you mentioned that in another thread, but that was hundreds of messages ago...)

Blownglass
03-13-2017, 02:30 PM
what year van? If an 02-03, it's probably a bad EGR. Didn't you have another thread going?

Also, the cheap MAFs do not work, you have to get an actual Bosch. I tried the $50 aftermarket replacement and it did not work with the ECU (scanned with DAD and the "new" MAF was fried). Got a Bosch for $100-125 and it worked perfectly. In my case, all I had was CEL, the turbo and everything worked fine even with the CEL because of the bad MAF.
I got a Bosch MAF from Euro parts $177

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Aqua Puttana
03-13-2017, 03:47 PM
...
How can I definitely rule out my turbo as the problem .
...

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Visual inspection will verify mechanical spinning parts condition of the turbo.

Remove the Turbo Resonator or inlet hose and visually inspect the turbo blades and scroll cage for signs of wear or scraping. If all looks good button it back up. (Don't even bother with the calibrated finger wiggle test for bearing check. It tells nothing.)

The turbo turns at such high RPM that any bearing problems quickly lead to obvious failure.

The vane positioner is a bit more difficult to verify proper operation. A basic test is to remove the bell crank and check that the vane assembly operates smoothly. Any catch or impediment to smooth operation indicates a problem. Unfortunately smooth operation doesn't verify all the operating components of the positioner/actuator.

The information here about LHM with no DTC's is vague because there is little to use for troubleshooting hints except owner information as it trickles out. Sometimes that turns out to be incomplete or even inaccurate. Not to mention that many of us are just "some guy" on a forum.

There are many, many possible issues that can trigger computer set reduced power aka LHM. Some DIY mechanics can figure things out, but there is no "If this, do this" formula which I'm aware of.

:cheers: vic

Blownglass
03-14-2017, 11:14 PM
Well I'm at the Mercedes dealer and paid for a diagnostic and got basically told that they got a bad MAF code . And had to program the ecu for the new MAF I bought (Bosch OEM MAF) which I thought was a plug and play . Such assholes in my opinion
They have this way of trying to make you feel stupid. But I already was getting a MAF code before taking it to Mercedes .. so I already knew what they knew and wanted to sell me parts and then more parts till they discovered what was wrong.

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Blownglass
03-14-2017, 11:16 PM
Pretty frustrating to still be back at the start of the problem with still no luck

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Blownglass
03-14-2017, 11:17 PM
It's actually running worse after Mercedes had their way with it.

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surlyoldbill
03-14-2017, 11:40 PM
My MAF was plug and play. I've never heard of the ECU needing to be programmed to recognize a new one. Maybe in the OM647?

Blownglass
03-15-2017, 01:47 AM
.. I'm getting a MAF code. So I Replaced the MAF with Bosch OEM MAF from Euro parts SD . Didn't fix problem . Decided to take it to Mercedes Benz dealership to have them diagnose it. They decided that my Bosch MAF was after market and that the ecu needed to have the parameters reset for the new MAF. Well then it would t start now with the MAF plugged in. It at least would start before o tool it in . Now it's worse than before I tool it to Mercedes

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Aqua Puttana
03-15-2017, 01:58 AM
.. I'm getting a MAF code. So I Replaced the MAF with Bosch OEM MAF from Euro parts SD . Didn't fix problem . Decided to take it to Mercedes Benz dealership to have them diagnose it. They decided that my Bosch MAF was after market and that the ecu needed to have the parameters reset for the new MAF. Well then it would t start now with the MAF plugged in. It at least would start before o tool it in . Now it's worse than before I tool it to Mercedes

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STOP CREATING NEW THREADS FOR YOUR ONGOING AIR MASS PROBLEM.

As of the past two days you have 4 threads going about the same problem.

I realize that it is frustrating, but you are just creating repeats/confusion and cluttering the forum.

Pick one of your threads and stay with it.

vic

travelbuds@verizon.net
03-15-2017, 02:36 AM
I found the wires between the MAF and the ECM were not perfect enough to let the signals through clearly. At Dr A's advice I replaced the wires and then it worked. I tested the wires with an ohm meter and they seemed fine but replacing them did the trick. I also got the ECM repaired at SOS but I think it was a waste.

SneakyAnarchistVanCamper
03-15-2017, 03:00 AM
Ok I read all your threads Blownglass and here's what we know: You got an MAF code, circuit a _____. Unplugged it, problem continues. Replaced it with bosch oem maf, problem continues. That's because the ECU is still seeing a too low or too high of voltage; a short or open circuit.

I think your fault is in the wires between the MAF and the ECU. Test resistance from the pin at the ECU to the connector on the MAF. The pin # is that tiny number in the wiring diagram where it goes into a component, ask us if you need help. Better yet, run new wires. Ask the dealership for the electrical crimp on parts like the pin that connects onto the ecu, and then solder your wire onto the spade on the MAF connector you already have. Push the prongs in the connector (at the MAF, not on the ecu!) inwards so they grab onto the pin firmly, inspect for corrosion.

Or, you may have a clogged air intake. Use a cigarette or vape to blow into the gills on the side of the hood to verify it easily comes out through the air filter housing, try it in reverse too. Next Remove the air intake tubing, inspect for any tiny cracks.

Tulisan9k
03-15-2017, 05:44 AM
A crack on the elephant's trunk aka air intake hose can (from personal experience) result in a loss of turbo boost and LHM. mine did not trigger any codes. Happened @ ~40K miles on the clock, so its my guess that that air intake hose was rather poorly designed. Lucky for me the crack was on the topside of the hose and easy to see as I was squeezing/inspecting that hose.

Bobnoxious
03-15-2017, 06:13 AM
So before you get doing all that check your air filter !
If its Chinese toss it in the bin and buy a genuine filter --BUT HOLD ON --clean out the dust hopper section of the air filter casing first with a vacuum cleaner !

Of course all you blokes do that don't you!:hmmm:
Dennis

Every 10k. I don't like screws holding the air box lid. I like clips! Why no clips? Clips better.

Blownglass
03-15-2017, 04:53 PM
STOP CREATING NEW THREADS FOR YOUR ONGOING AIR MASS PROBLEM.

As of the past two days you have 4 threads going about the same problem.

I realize that it is frustrating, but you are just creating repeats/confusion and cluttering the forum.

Pick one of your threads and stay with it.

vic
Wow .....ok thanks for the reprimand.. I will just look somewhere else . Sorry to participate in the forum

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Blownglass
03-15-2017, 04:54 PM
Sorry I will delete all my threads and look for help elsewhere.

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Aqua Puttana
03-15-2017, 05:10 PM
Sorry I will delete all my threads and look for help elsewhere.

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That's a very reasonable response to my post. :dripsarcasm::dripsarcasm:

Leave if you wish, but that wasn't my intention.

Maybe try Yahoo Sprintervan.

Good luck.

vic

Blownglass
03-15-2017, 05:12 PM
So before I leave the forum can someone please verify if I unplug the MAF will or should the turbo start working .. I'd it doesn't does it mean I gave a bad turbo?
Also should there be any up and down movement on the Squirl cage boost side of the turbo.
Once again sorry for all the threads and thanks for all the advice .. you won't hear from me again till I find a solution and fix it . I will post my fix for others in my same situation. Other than that im done

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Blownglass
03-15-2017, 05:26 PM
That's a very reasonable response to my post. :dripsarcasm::dripsarcasm:

Leave if you wish, but that wasn't my intention.

Maybe try Yahoo Sprintervan.

Good luck.

vic
Well how else am I supposed to respond. I'm just trying to get help and participate. I will find the answer eventually and have the answer for others. I didn't know I wasn't allowed to post multiple things .. sorry to annoy you . I Find people in forums can be helpful and not be all crazy about rules . I will stop adding threads but don't plan to leave the forum just participate less.
There seem to be alot of people here who are cool and want to help and seem to be knowledgeable and want to help .
You have also been very helpful that's why I was surprised by your post that I was annoying you . Thanks for the advice

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Aqua Puttana
03-15-2017, 05:39 PM
Well how else am I supposed to respond. I'm just trying to get help and participate. I will find the answer eventually and have the answer for others. I didn't know I wasn't allowed to post multiple things .. sorry to annoy you . I Find people in forums can be helpful and not be all crazy about rules . I will stop adding threads but don't plan to leave the forum just participate less.
There seem to be alot of people here who are cool and want to help and seem to be knowledgeable and want to help .
You have also been very helpful that's why I was surprised by your post that I was annoying you . Thanks for the advice

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As you seem to want to discuss this.

Answers, information, and continuity of thought get mixed up when posts about the very same issue from the very same person are scattered all over.

I suggest that if you want to start over with a new thread (which might not be a bad idea), you should take the time to collect your previous posts and what has been done to date for the opening post.

What you did was to ignore that there was previous advice/testing history, and start a stand alone post with absolutely none of the previous information included. Chasing your tail comes to mind.

Again.
Good luck.

vic

Bobnoxious
03-15-2017, 06:04 PM
Sorry I will delete all my threads and look for help elsewhere.

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Blownglass, I ask you reconsider and not leave as I have been studying this thread (your issue) with great interest and may be of interest and future benefit to others. The moderator is only trying to keep the forum organized, as well as, a knowledgeable and experienced sprinter owner and forum contributor helping, who knows how many, Sprinter owners resolve issues.

Bob

autostaretx
03-15-2017, 06:05 PM
Back on topic: there have also been instances of turbo air leaking out from under the hose clamps... the old rubber of the hoses had taken a "set" which even tightened clamping couldn't seal. (there were photos and/or diagrams along with that post)
I can't remember the exact fix, but i suspect it was new hoses.

A pressurized smoke test (don't exceed 20 psi) reveals stuff like this... and it's what the powertrain diagnostic manual recommends.

Why there's a time delay may be a contributing hint... (if it never happened in less than a minute)... due to either a time-out in the electronics (OK... we're ready to boost for real!) or something (old rubber?) warming up. But a stop/restart would not re-trigger a timeout due to heat.

--dick

Blownglass
03-15-2017, 06:06 PM
As you seem to want to discuss this.

Answers, information, and continuity of thought get mixed up when posts about the very same issue from the very same person are scattered all over.

I suggest that if you want to start over with a new thread (which might not be a bad idea), you should take the time to collect your previous posts and what has been done to date for the opening post.

What you did was to ignore that there was previous advice/testing history, and start a stand alone post with absolutely none of the previous information included. Chasing your tail comes to mind.

Again.
Good luck.

vic
I understand and appreciate your help... If I could delete all my other threads I would and just stick with this one. But can't figure out how to .. feel free to clean up the threads if you can . I will just stick to this one from now on or until I fix it or have a different problem that isn't related to my MAF

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Blownglass
03-15-2017, 06:19 PM
Blownglass, I ask you reconsider and not leave as I have been studying this thread (your issue) with great interest and may be of interest and future benefit to others. The moderator is only trying to keep the forum organized.

Bob
I'm gonna stay . I have a great deal of diesel knowledge . Went to diesel tech school . I'm not a diesel mechanic im a glass blower but have a good understanding of diesel and feel like I can be a good addition to the group.
But I'm easily offended and that's my problem I'm kinda an asshole . Sorry I will just try to keep my post to a minimum . And sorry to Vic I know your just trying to keep order. It didn't cross my mind I was creating clutter till you brought it up .. just so frustrated with this whole Mercedes nightmare.

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Blownglass
03-15-2017, 09:29 PM
Is there a way to reset the ECU to factory settings

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Bobnoxious
03-15-2017, 10:21 PM
...I'm kinda an asshole... Well then, you should fit right in, seems like a lot of serious assholes congregate here. I can say, without forum refutation, I am proudly a "Complete Asshole." If I got a dollar for every time I was called an asshole i'd make Trump look like a pauper.

Aqua Puttana
03-15-2017, 10:23 PM
Is there a way to reset the ECU to factory settings

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Do you have a tune? GED has a method to return to OEM.

I believe that the only real learned settings apply to the transmission operation TCM, not the ECM aka ECU.

There is the coding for the injectors, but that shouldn't have changed unless it was accessed with a scan tool. And that won't affect air mass monitoring.

vic

SneakyAnarchistVanCamper
03-16-2017, 12:46 AM
Sorry I will just try to keep my post to a minimum .

Post all you want in your own thread, that's what it's there for. It only becomes a problem when multiple threads are created without reference to the previous theads, losing previous progress, or if you post on other peoples threads, derailing their thread. No worries dude.

Unplugging the MAF will give default values for the MAF and maybe a few other sensors. It won't make your turbo work unless those sensors were the problem, afaik.

Up and down movement of the turbo shaft often means a worn out turbo, but it's hard to have a "Calibrated finger" because I think a just a smidgeon of play is ok on the sprinters, but if you can move it so much that it touches the body of the turbo you know it's definitely bad. You'd have to ask someone with more experience, but if you think the play there is excessive I'd definitely pay attention to that.

If you haven't already I think it is time to remove, inspect and clean your EGR. It is only three bolts, very easy.

"A sticking EGR valve influences the mass air flow causing implausibility with MAF, which displays one or more DTC's. Don't replace the EGR valve if no DTC's are present. Use the EGR valve Diagnostic Procedure to determine if replacement is required"

Blownglass
03-16-2017, 01:53 AM
Do you have a tune? GED has a method to return to OEM.

I believe that the only real learned settings apply to the transmission operation TCM, not the ECM aka ECU.

There is the coding for the injectors, but that shouldn't have changed unless it was accessed with a scan tool. And that won't affect air mass monitoring.

vic
When I took it to dealer yesterday they made some change to my parameters they said so the computer will recognize the new MAF I installed. Now it won't start with the MAF plugged in. I think they did that on purpose so I had to have them install one . If that's the case then I would like to set it back to the way it was. But no I don't have a tune and was considering buying the green tune in hopes it would reset everything and fix my beast .

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Blownglass
03-16-2017, 01:57 AM
Post all you want in your own thread, that's what it's there for. It only becomes a problem when multiple threads are created without reference to the previous theads, losing previous progress, or if you post on other peoples threads, derailing their thread. No worries dude.

Unplugging the MAF will give default values for the MAF and maybe a few other sensors. It won't make your turbo work unless those sensors were the problem, afaik.

Up and down movement of the turbo shaft often means a worn out turbo, but it's hard to have a "Calibrated finger" because I think a just a smidgeon of play is ok on the sprinters, but if you can move it so much that it touches the body of the turbo you know it's definitely bad. You'd have to ask someone with more experience, but if you think the play there is excessive I'd definitely pay attention to that.

If you haven't already I think it is time to remove, inspect and clean your EGR. It is only three bolts, very easy.

"A sticking EGR valve influences the mass air flow causing implausibility with MAF, which displays one or more DTC's. Don't replace the EGR valve if no DTC's are present. Use the EGR valve Diagnostic Procedure to determine if replacement is required"
I did remove the EGR and clean it . Nothing seemed sticky about it . It did have quite a bit of soot sobi cleaned it up and put it back together .


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Aqua Puttana
03-16-2017, 02:14 AM
... they said so the computer will recognize the new MAF I installed. ...
There have been many, many, many, many... posts/threads here where a different Mass Air Flow sensor has been installed to correct issues. Sometimes that sensor wasn't the problem. I don't recall one time that anyone has ever mentioned needing to introduce a correct part MAF sensor to a Sprinter. Not once. To my knowledge they are a plug and play part.

I have a spare OM647 MAF sensor. I sent it off to another member to use as a substitution. He installed it. It worked fine, but didn't correct his problem so he returned it. It never needed special programming.

Mucking around with an ECM aka ECU to get the wrong part to work would likely somehow violate emissions regulations. As a professional would you take the chance on that?

Not all dealers (dealer employees?) are 100% trustworthy.

Checking mechanical operation/cleaning may not cure the problem if there is a control related issue with an EGR.

Sorry I can't offer more.

vic

Blownglass
03-16-2017, 05:20 PM
There have been many, many, many, many... posts/threads here where a different Mass Air Flow sensor has been installed to correct issues. Sometimes that sensor wasn't the problem. I don't recall one time that anyone has ever mentioned needing to introduce a correct part MAF sensor to a Sprinter. Not once. To my knowledge they are a plug and play part.

I have a spare OM647 MAF sensor. I sent it off to another member to use as a substitution. He installed it. It worked fine, but didn't correct his problem so he returned it. It never needed special programming.

Mucking around with an ECM aka ECU to get the wrong part to work would likely somehow violate emissions regulations. As a professional would you take the chance on that?

Not all dealers (dealer employees?) are 100% trustworthy.

Checking mechanical operation/cleaning may not cure the problem if there is a control related issue with an EGR.

Sorry I can't offer more.

vic
I agree I have never had this type of frustration with a vehicle. The dealer should never have changed my parameters . I'm not sure what to try next .
I did check continuity of the wires back to the ECM they all seemed to be ok .
So there is a 12 volt power a ground a 5 volt power and a data wire coming off the MAF .
The 12 volt wite had 12 volts. But the 5 volt had half a volt . Not sure what that's all about.

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Bobnoxious
03-16-2017, 07:49 PM
:professor:It may or may not help your present issue but it should be part of your routine maintenance regimen anyway. Your vehicle is eleven years old? Most automobile owners are notorious for neglecting battery maintenance. Especially, when the battery is located out of sight out of mind such as the Sprinter. For proper vehicle operation, especially when equipped with modern electronics, It is essential to ensure all battery connections are tight and clean, particularly, the ground cable. Battery maintenance is a simple and inexpensive task and should be the starting point prior to diagnosing electrical issues.


bob :cheers:

SneakyAnarchistVanCamper
03-16-2017, 09:32 PM
So there is a 12 volt power a ground a 5 volt power and a data wire coming off the MAF .
The 12 volt wite had 12 volts. But the 5 volt had half a volt .


Well there's your problem, congratulations. Woulda helped if you posted the full verbatim code. The 5v supply needs 5v. Focus on this wire; trace it back to the ECM, feeling carefully for any nicks in the wire or stiffness. Leave the signal wire alone for now; its pulse width modulated signal will just confuse you. You can either run a new wire or find where the break is and use a waterproof butt splice to repair it. There are tools that will help you find the break, but you can do it without.


Make a complaint, the dealer should have never changed your parameters. They should set it back for free, that is malpractice. If they don't fix it, complain to the supervisors boss.

Very good, but continuity is not a great indicator with very sensitive wires. The voltage could still pass through and indicate continuity, yet have too much resistance to supply adequate voltage. It's better to test resistance (de-energized wires only) or do a voltage drop test.

Put your meters positive lead on pin 61, connector C1 at the ECM, then put the negative lead on your battery terminal clamp. If it doesn't have 5v, at the ECM pin, your fault is within the ECM/wires to the ecm. If it does have 5v at the ECM and .5v at the MAF, you know the problem is in the wire. You can simply take a 20 gauge wire, crimp on an ECM connector pin, use a special ecm connector pin removal tool if needed, then solder the end of the wire to the spade on the MAF connector. Problem solved.

Bobnoxious
03-16-2017, 10:58 PM
Well there's your problem, congratulations. Woulda helped if you posted the full verbatim code. The 5v supply needs 5v. Focus on this wire; trace it back to the ECM, feeling carefully for any nicks in the wire or stiffness. Leave the signal wire alone for now; its pulse width modulated signal will just confuse you. You can either run a new wire or find where the break is and use a waterproof butt splice to repair it. There are tools that will help you find the break, but you can do it without.


Make a complaint, the dealer should have never changed your parameters. They should set it back for free, that is malpractice. If they don't fix it, complain to the supervisors boss

Very good, but continuity is not a great indicator with very sensitive wires. The voltage could still pass through and indicate continuity, yet have too much resistance to supply adequate voltage. It's better to test resistance (de-energized wires only) or do a voltage drop test.

Put your meters positive lead on pin 61, connector C1 at the ECM, then put the negative lead on your battery terminal clamp. If it doesn't have 5v, at the ECM pin, your fault is within the ECM/wires to the ecm. If it does have 5v at the ECM and .5v at the MAF, you know the problem is in the wire. You can simply take a 20 gauge wire, crimp on an ECM connector pin, use a special ecm connector pin removal tool if needed, then solder the end of the wire to the spade on the MAF connector. Problem solved.

"Make a complaint, the dealer should have never changed your parameters. They should set it back for free, that is malpractice. If they don't fix it, complain to the supervisors boss."

Please allow me to add: The above cannot be over emphasized! Don't be shy to continuously elevate your complaint to your satisfaction. Conduct your business at the dealership as you should in a court of law. Calmly and professionally. If the information on this forum resolves your your issue, use it as evidence of dealership malpractice/incompetence. stand your ground, exert /assert your rights!

Bobnoxious
03-16-2017, 11:14 PM
Well there's your problem, congratulations. Woulda helped if you posted the full verbatim code. The 5v supply needs 5v. Focus on this wire; trace it back to the ECM, feeling carefully for any nicks in the wire or stiffness. Leave the signal wire alone for now; its pulse width modulated signal will just confuse you. You can either run a new wire or find where the break is and use a waterproof butt splice to repair it. There are tools that will help you find the break, but you can do it without.


Make a complaint, the dealer should have never changed your parameters. They should set it back for free, that is malpractice. If they don't fix it, complain to the supervisors boss.

Very good, but continuity is not a great indicator with very sensitive wires. The voltage could still pass through and indicate continuity, yet have too much resistance to supply adequate voltage. It's better to test resistance (de-energized wires only) or do a voltage drop test.

Put your meters positive lead on pin 61, connector C1 at the ECM, then put the negative lead on your battery terminal clamp. If it doesn't have 5v, at the ECM pin, your fault is within the ECM/wires to the ecm. If it does have 5v at the ECM and .5v at the MAF, you know the problem is in the wire. You can simply take a 20 gauge wire, crimp on an ECM connector pin, use a special ecm connector pin removal tool if needed, then solder the end of the wire to the spade on the MAF connector. Problem solved.

:popcorn:

Bobnoxious
03-17-2017, 12:27 AM
Are connector terminal cleaning tools available?

SneakyAnarchistVanCamper
03-17-2017, 03:31 AM
Actually you know what you'd have to backprobe the ecm connector with a blunted sewing needle on pin 61 to see voltage running; (not sure if this works with sprinter ecm connectors) it would not be a good idea to put a multimeter clamp on the ecm while it's powered up, it'd short out next to all the pins next to it, sorry bad advice. Normally you make a special wire to connect to the individual pin and use a vehicle break out harness, or at least that's how I learned it.

(With vehicle off) Just test pin 61 on the c1 connector at the ecm (not the ecm pin), to the maf 5v supply spade in the maf connector. The wire is a straight shot and should have very low resistance, .2> ohms. If you find significant resistance you know somewhere along that wire it is not allowing your 5v to get through.

Come to think of it, it's possible the ecm unpowers the 5v supply when the MAF is unplugged (giving you .5v). If you were to backprobe it carefully with sewing needle, you could see actual running voltage on that 5v supply on the maf connector. Hopefully someone else can chime in on that.

Blownglass
03-17-2017, 05:10 PM
The head of the service department is now stating that they only set the MAF within parameters . He wanted to argue that I bought a bad MAF from Euro parts SD. If I could choke a guy through the phone I would. He is the biggest ass I have ever dealt with. Nothing worse than being talked down to by the service advisor who isn't even a mechanic.
Rampage in 3-2-1🙉🙈🙊

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Blownglass
03-17-2017, 05:11 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170317/9d07d3221e01ae102b2bb1e1b0397503.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170317/9241b941172772b8129b516ac6160c08.jpg

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Blownglass
03-17-2017, 05:12 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170317/026bb861e23da90f8909097185e9ac64.jpg

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Blownglass
03-17-2017, 05:13 PM
So yeah this guy at the dealer is a real smug son of a bitch

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Blownglass
03-17-2017, 05:18 PM
Well there's your problem, congratulations. Woulda helped if you posted the full verbatim code. The 5v supply needs 5v. Focus on this wire; trace it back to the ECM, feeling carefully for any nicks in the wire or stiffness. Leave the signal wire alone for now; its pulse width modulated signal will just confuse you. You can either run a new wire or find where the break is and use a waterproof butt splice to repair it. There are tools that will help you find the break, but you can do it without.


Make a complaint, the dealer should have never changed your parameters. They should set it back for free, that is malpractice. If they don't fix it, complain to the supervisors boss.

Very good, but continuity is not a great indicator with very sensitive wires. The voltage could still pass through and indicate continuity, yet have too much resistance to supply adequate voltage. It's better to test resistance (de-energized wires only) or do a voltage drop test.

Put your meters positive lead on pin 61, connector C1 at the ECM, then put the negative lead on your battery terminal clamp. If it doesn't have 5v, at the ECM pin, your fault is within the ECM/wires to the ecm. If it does have 5v at the ECM and .5v at the MAF, you know the problem is in the wire. You can simply take a 20 gauge wire, crimp on an ECM connector pin, use a special ecm connector pin removal tool if needed, then solder the end of the wire to the spade on the MAF connector. Problem solved.
Battery terminal clamp?? Not 100% sure I understand this battery clamp location .. do you mean run it to the battery ground or the battery positive. Or am I just ignorant ..

Thanks for all the advice by the way

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Blownglass
03-17-2017, 05:20 PM
The top service clown is adamant that I have a badass air flow sensor and that if I return it and get a new one that it will fix everything.

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Bobnoxious
03-17-2017, 05:40 PM
The head of the service department is now stating that they only set the MAF within parameters . He wanted to argue that I bought a bad MAF from Euro parts SD. If I could choke a guy through the phone I would. He is the biggest ass I have ever dealt with. Nothing worse than being talked down to by the service advisor who isn't even a mechanic.
Rampage in 3-2-1🙉🙈🙊

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Remain calm and retain the advantage! When dealing with drones at dealerships, I try to remind myself, I am dealing with sheeple of a lesser God who require more of my patients.

Bobnoxious
03-17-2017, 05:47 PM
Blownglass, can you take pictures of your battery? Especially, the battery posts and surrounding terminals, wires and area? Have you inspected and cleaned your battery terminal posts? Also, check every vacuum hose for cracks, splits and leaks.

Blownglass
03-17-2017, 06:28 PM
Blownglass, can you take pictures of your battery? Especially, the battery posts and surrounding terminals, wires and area? Have you inspected and cleaned your battery terminal posts? Also, check every vacuum hose for cracks, splits and leaks.
Will clean and verify good connection. And take pics for you
Steve ____

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Bobnoxious
03-17-2017, 06:34 PM
How old is the battery?

Blownglass
03-17-2017, 07:25 PM
Not sure how old it is. I know it's not the original though . It's AAA battery .

I'm gonna try to reduce 12v to 5v direct to my MAF sensor and see if it makes any difference.

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SneakyAnarchistVanCamper
03-17-2017, 08:09 PM
Battery terminal clamp?? Not 100% sure I understand this battery clamp location .. do you mean run it to the battery ground or the battery positive.

I meant to write negative battery terminal clamp. The metal clamp on your battery negative post. Sorry. When you test voltage, you test from positive to negative. We want to know voltage on the 5v supply wire at the ecm. Carefully put a tiny blunted sewing needle into the back of the C1 connector on the ecm at pin 61, without damaging the insulation or connector, you just want to touch the metal. Connect your positive multimeter lead to the sewing needle. Negative lead to battery negative. You should see 5v. This is how we confirm that there is power at the ecm but it's not getting to the MAF through the wire. AKA, backprobing. Try this with both the MAF plugged in and unplugged.

If you can't backprobe it, just test resistance from the connector to the MAF on the 5v supply wire. With circuit unpowered, put one lead on each side of the 5v supply wire, in ohms mode.

The code says circuit (voltage) low. That means the wire is shorted I'm pretty sure. Look for a nick in the wire touching ground.

Blownglass
03-18-2017, 09:12 PM
I meant to write negative battery terminal clamp. The metal clamp on your battery negative post. Sorry. When you test voltage, you test from positive to negative. We want to know voltage on the 5v supply wire at the ecm. Carefully put a tiny blunted sewing needle into the back of the C1 connector on the ecm at pin 61, without damaging the insulation or connector, you just want to touch the metal. Connect your positive multimeter lead to the sewing needle. Negative lead to battery negative. You should see 5v. This is how we confirm that there is power at the ecm but it's not getting to the MAF through the wire. AKA, backprobing. Try this with both the MAF plugged in and unplugged.

If you can't backprobe it, just test resistance from the connector to the MAF on the 5v supply wire. With circuit unpowered, put one lead on each side of the 5v supply wire, in ohms mode.

The code says circuit (voltage) low. That means the wire is shorted I'm pretty sure. Look for a nick in the wire touching ground.
Well at the back of the ECM I'm getting a fluctuating number . From .9v -1.5 v- 2v
But I'm not seeing the 5 volts needed .
Could be because the ecu is bad or because it was set by the dealer to screw me over ..
Or maybe the ecu has set it self there because of the fault.
I'm wondering if I got the green diesel eco tune if it would reset all the stuff in the ecu so it would work again .
I. Still believing that the dealer changed my computer sobi would have to bring it back to them to get fixed .

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SneakyAnarchistVanCamper
03-18-2017, 11:39 PM
Well at the back of the ECM I'm getting a fluctuating number . From .9v -1.5 v- 2v
But I'm not seeing the 5 volts needed .

As in, you tested the actual ecm pin, or you tested the back of the connector?

I don't know if the ecm will turn off supply power if maf is unplugged. To confirm problem, plug in the C1 connector, plug in your MAF sensor, put key on, and then backprobe with sewing needle to check voltage at pin 61, through the back of the plugged in c1 connector. This is very important to rule out the wire leading to the maf.



__________________

If you don't have proper voltage at the ecm when everything is plugged in, start looking at the power and ground source of the ecm. G200 grounds the ecm I'm pretty sure, that's the big negative connection on the firewall behind the battery. Then the black box in front of the battery, the power distribution module, check voltage on these after the fuse. Power distribution module fuse #6, all the way to the right, powers fuse block #1 under steering column, and then has several routes to power the ECM. But it may vary due to model which fuse # it is. It's easier to check the G200 ground first.

Blownglass
03-20-2017, 05:31 PM
As in, you tested the actual ecm pin, or you tested the back of the connector?

I don't know if the ecm will turn off supply power if maf is unplugged. To confirm problem, plug in the C1 connector, plug in your MAF sensor, put key on, and then backprobe with sewing needle to check voltage at pin 61, through the back of the plugged in c1 connector. This is very important to rule out the wire leading to the maf.



__________________

If you don't have proper voltage at the ecm when everything is plugged in, start looking at the power and ground source of the ecm. G200 grounds the ecm I'm pretty sure, that's the big negative connection on the firewall behind the battery. Then the black box in front of the battery, the power distribution module, check voltage on these after the fuse. Power distribution module fuse #6, all the way to the right, powers fuse block #1 under steering column, and then has several routes to power the ECM. But it may vary due to model which fuse # it is. It's easier to check the G200 ground first.
At the back of the plug

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SneakyAnarchistVanCamper
03-20-2017, 09:58 PM
You did this test with your new oem MAF plugged in, right? I'm not sure if this will affect the 5v supply voltage. If you didn't, repeat 5v supply test with maf plugged in, or unplugged, whichever you didnt do.
When you saw that fluctuating voltage on the back of the C1 connector, did you have your negative multimeter lead connected to a real good ground, like a shiny part of the battery negative terminal? You might want to repeat this test, it's possible that your meter didn't see a good ground or didn't have a solid connection to what you were testing.

Hmm.. Seeing as your other sensors are fine, and you don't have any other codes like "5v reference supply faulty", I would say your shared 5v reference/supply is fine. But why is it not getting to pin 61 at the ecm? That is the question.

One more test, either go to radioshack or somewhere for an ecm pin crimp connector to attach to a wire, or tape up the outside of your multimeter lead so you don't short the adjacent pins, remove the C1 connector and see what the voltage is at pin 61 *on* the ecm with vehicle powered on. Carefully! Don't let that lead touch the other pins, not once. It's possible that there is a bad connection from the ECM to the C1 connector. Edit: You won't see proper voltage there until you disconnect the harness, removing the short from the circuit.

Here's another option. Like you said earlier, run your own 5v supply to it. How about this. Take a wire with a banana clip on either end (jumper wire). Place one lead on a known good 5v supply, like for another sensor. Carefully remove the 5v supply wire from the MAF connector and connect the other banana clip to the spade on the back of the MAF connector at the MAF. Tape it up and take it for a drive and see if it resolves the issue so you can later more professionally run a new 5v supply wire to the MAF.

Is the 5v supply supposed to be 5v at the ecm with the maf unplugged/signal wire shorted/open, or does it switch it on once it senses the MAF is plugged in?


Edit: Overlooked electrical basics. If you have a short to ground in the MAF wire that will drag down the voltage anywhere you test it at, right? Even if you measure voltage at the C1 connector, and the short is in the middle of the MAF wire, the voltage would still be below 5v, until you remove the short to ground from the circuit.

Therefore to properly test it you're gonna have to unplug the C1 connector and test directly on the ECM pin, before we can start blaming the ecm or its power and ground.

Blownglass
03-22-2017, 04:20 PM
I live on a crappy dirt road that is full of pot holes.a nd struts that seem non existent at times. I'm starting to think that maybe I have a bad connection inside my ecu . I have had some pretty hard hits in pot holes. After a few months of traveling this road. I think it may be possible the ecu has been shaken pretty good. Bad solder on that 61 pin maybe?

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SneakyAnarchistVanCamper
03-22-2017, 08:24 PM
Well it could be just as easily a chafing/cut maf wire from the potholes too. We won't know until you ohm out the maf 5v supply wire or disconnect the c1 connector and see voltage on pin 61.

You could test for a short to ground by placing one multimeter lead on the 5v supply wire at the unplugged maf connector, then the other lead on ground. Put it in continuity beep mode and wiggle the maf harness. The 5v supply should not have continuity to ground. Easy test.

Bobnoxious
03-22-2017, 08:52 PM
How long would it take to bypass pin 61?

Blownglass
03-23-2017, 05:48 PM
I have a 12v to 5v regulator I just got to see if I can bypass the pin 61 .
Also just got my replacement MAF from Euro parts SD . They are cool took the one they sold me back and sent me a new one because the dealer said it was bad. But I haven't installed it yet .

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Blownglass
03-24-2017, 03:55 PM
New MAF didn't fix problem.. the 5 volts direct also didn't fix it. And now a new dtc #3 injector open circuit ..

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Brokecanadian
03-24-2017, 06:30 PM
New MAF didn't fix problem.. the 5 volts direct also didn't fix it. And now a new dtc #3 injector open circuit ..

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Just a shot in the dark. Wiring harness? Had shorts in injector wiring and it definitely ran rough...repaired it temporarily and ordered harness...had multiple unexplained trouble codes also

Push on the plastic areas of the harness on the valve cover, if it changes the running you've found one problem at least

I went thru the wringer suspecting injectors and grounds, but pushing the zip tie near my number one injector plug made it run rough or smooth out

On highway it simulated the limp mode but was much worse, slowed down to 40 on steep hills

Bobnoxious
03-24-2017, 06:40 PM
Just a shot in the dark. Wiring harness? Had shorts in injector wiring and it definitely ran rough...repaired it temporarily and ordered harness...had multiple unexplained trouble codes also

Push on the plastic areas of the harness on the valve cover, if it changes the running you've found one problem at least

I would add: unplug and replug associated connectors multiple times in an effort to improve connector connections. And, as mentioned previously, I would make sure the battery is an optimum condition. Just brainstorming ideas.

Bob

SneakyAnarchistVanCamper
03-24-2017, 07:31 PM
New MAF didn't fix problem.. the 5 volts direct also didn't fix it. And now a new dtc #3 injector open circuit ..

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Until you unplug the shorted harness, the ECM will still see undervoltage on pin61. Even if you give it 5v the ECM will still think there is a problem with the MAF 5v supply. Did you get a voltage reading from pin61 unplugged yet?

The injector harness wires lay directly on the bare metal and eventually rubs through. It's easy to label each connector and remove and inspect the harness.