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2011V6
02-22-2017, 05:42 AM
It seems like the problems im having with my 2011 sprinter 11 passenger van v6 200,000km . no one else on this forum is having. even the dealership is stumped on some of my issues.
1. My rear floor heater stopped working after i powerwashed the floor a little. ya i know prob not a good idea to get water in side the van. I do it every 6 months with no issues. but this year was below freezing. so the next morning it did not work. after a few hours of driving it unfroze and dried up and was working again. now it works somedays and not others. like it has a mind of its own. when i take it to the dealer it seems to work again rite as i get there like a little gremlin. not sure where the rear floor heater guts are located?
2. srs light came on cus i use to sit on top of the seat belt instead of wearing it and the side angle pressure broke the censer inside the female side of the buckle. new one was $150 took me 3 min to install with a torx wrench.
3.i power washed the engine (ya i know now these vans hate power washers) and i guess i got to much water on the passenger side and the tire pressure sender module box fried. light came on. dealership was the only one that figured that one out my guess is because its happened before. $500 fix
4.The DEF heater failed. i had it rebuilt but when the indi was reinstalling it he snapped the head of the pump. so i had to super glue it back to save $1500. problem was when pump turned back on the pressure was to much for the glue. so i super glued it again and then took a plastic zip tie and melted drops around it. basically plastic welding it back together. worked drove 60,000km still holding strong no leaks.
5. not so much of a problem as a tip. i bought a set of Michelin LTX MS2 and i got 160,000km out of them. longest tread ware i have seen in my life. they worked amazing in the deep snow and ice. better than some cheep china snow tires where in the snow. and these are my all seasons. i drive in -50 to +100F every year. great for summer and heavy rain and snow ice. i drive fast and hard.
hope these symptoms and solutions are some help to someone.
now to my current gremlins.

1. check engine light is on and i used my scan tool and also had a dealership scan tool and both gave me the same code. P206D
i have searched for weeks and had my indi search no clue to even know where to start. i notice nothing in the way it runs.

2. My brake service warning light wont go off. I have changed all 4 sensors 4 pads and rotors every thing is brand new. iv tried swapping the sensors. iv used brake clean, taking them on and off again. tried scanning etc. i know that its like a open circuit but is there any where else that is doing it.

i like to offer help as well as ask for it. any help would be appreciated.

lindenengineering
02-22-2017, 01:17 PM
It seems like the problems im having with my 2011 sprinter 11 passenger van v6 200,000km . no one else on this forum is having. even the dealership is stumped on some of my issues.
1. My rear floor heater stopped working after i powerwashed the floor a little. ya i know prob not a good idea to get water in side the van. I do it every 6 months with no issues. but this year was below freezing. so the next morning it did not work. after a few hours of driving it unfroze and dried up and was working again. now it works somedays and not others. like it has a mind of its own. when i take it to the dealer it seems to work again rite as i get there like a little gremlin. not sure where the rear floor heater guts are located?
2. srs light came on cus i use to sit on top of the seat belt instead of wearing it and the side angle pressure broke the censer inside the female side of the buckle. new one was $150 took me 3 min to install with a torx wrench.
3.i power washed the engine (ya i know now these vans hate power washers) and i guess i got to much water on the passenger side and the tire pressure sender module box fried. light came on. dealership was the only one that figured that one out my guess is because its happened before. $500 fix
4.The DEF heater failed. i had it rebuilt but when the indi was reinstalling it he snapped the head of the pump. so i had to super glue it back to save $1500. problem was when pump turned back on the pressure was to much for the glue. so i super glued it again and then took a plastic zip tie and melted drops around it. basically plastic welding it back together. worked drove 60,000km still holding strong no leaks.
5. not so much of a problem as a tip. i bought a set of Michelin LTX MS2 and i got 160,000km out of them. longest tread ware i have seen in my life. they worked amazing in the deep snow and ice. better than some cheep china snow tires where in the snow. and these are my all seasons. i drive in -50 to +100F every year. great for summer and heavy rain and snow ice. i drive fast and hard.
hope these symptoms and solutions are some help to someone.
now to my current gremlins.

1. check engine light is on and i used my scan tool and also had a dealership scan tool and both gave me the same code. P206D
i have searched for weeks and had my indi search no clue to even know where to start. i notice nothing in the way it runs.

2. My brake service warning light wont go off. I have changed all 4 sensors 4 pads and rotors every thing is brand new. iv tried swapping the sensors. iv used brake clean, taking them on and off again. tried scanning etc. i know that its like a open circuit but is there any where else that is doing it.

i like to offer help as well as ask for it. any help would be appreciated.

I have come across these problems you have mentioned.!!
A few time over!

Power washing the floor!
If you get copious amounts water in the heater box you will short out the relays and connectors that dwell in there!
The connections and relays with have to be exposed, cleaned and tested to ensure good conductivity.
That is a heater box out & repair remedy I am afraid !

Be careful about going mad with power washer--as you have discovered.! Viz a Viz the TPMS control!
I suspect the Dealer figured it out because they like me use an MB scanner & compatible equivalents to interrogate the whole car!!

Curious on the def heater insert/bucket assy!
How did you rebuild it?
Did you buy a new heater level assy and install it or what??:thinking:

Braking the tip off the pump is a common occurance by those that are not careful enough with the DEF tank upon removal or re-install.
The pump and tubing catches up on the frame flitch bracketing.
As you have experienced the pump cannot be successfully repaired with super glue.
In fact the pressure will blow it off after every repair even using Belzona!!

(And that is used in emergency well head repairs in oil fields!!)

Brake wear sensors ,
The methodology to isolate the problem from a general system communication problem on YOUR 906 van is to do the following.
Get a spare sensor cut the wear tip off and joint the two wire stubs together so that there is continuity through the loop wiring you have now made.
We usually do this with the wheels removed and the vehicle up on stands, but whichever way you go about it, simply substitute the sensor by removing the original sensor in turn from the socket then plug in your test loop.
You will need to cycle the ignition switch to see if the light will go out as you go around the vehicle doing the substitution gig!
This will quickly determine if the issue is at each wheel station or further up the harnesses .

Now your check engine light and your searching for weeks--Sorry but I can't help thinking this sounds like a Sir Lancelot tale of looking for the Holy Grail! :thumbup:
But using that analogy for moment you need to be more like Sir Percival and follow the MB (aka King Arthur repair rules) if you know them!:laughing:

I suppose I must ask what type of scanner do you have or what are you using ?
The scanner you mentioned !
Does it have live data to "see" the DEF system operation?
If so what do you see in info on the screen?

If the scanner has bi directional capabilities was the DEF heater reprogrammed after DEF heater repair either by yourself or the Independent shop you presented the vehicle to?
This problem is a bit tough to pinpoint without knowing what you are using as a scanner and whether that repair you did was really successful on the DEF pump so far as flow of fluid is concerned etc etc.(incl reprog etc ).
With the right scanner as some training /knowledge its not a difficult problems pinpoint .
Hope this is helpful.
Dennis
Mechanic

dustinwor
02-23-2017, 03:54 AM
Sounds like all issues that could be avoided and caused by neglect

lindenengineering
02-23-2017, 05:07 AM
Sounds like all issues that could be avoided and caused by neglect

Dustin
Well possibly!
As I see it many owners want to be proactive in maintenance of vehicles.

The base issue today not only on Sprinters but with most vehicles, is the need to avoid having to present a vehicle to a repair shop to get a vehicle either serviced or repaired.

If we take this post it fairly obvious to me that the writer has either a scanner or a code reader of sorts which he hopes will allow him to do DIY repairs and avoid paying someone to do what he perceives he can do as an enthusiastic DIY'r .

Nothing wrong with that and if we go back before 1990 a fairly understandable posture to take! Today however boiled down, as with most newer vehicles its impossible to fix some parts/systems of the vehicle without adequate scan tools with sophisticated bi directional programming features.
This means of course technical support and training on the product in question which on some makes and platforms the manufacturer is unwilling to share unless you pay for it or you are a dealer tech.
Of course the other factor is trying DIY botch fixes like the DEF pump fix outlined !
However cost expedient which in some cases are bona fide fixes, however on modern cars they usually form a short term solution when the only long term reliable way is to replace it!
This often comes with cost penalties!

Its interesting to see how the factory level trade responds to aftermarket forces from trade perspective !

Citing used take off part substitution from wrecking yard has often be a well used method for repair diagnosis or actual repair. Been around since the Model T !
The insurance companies of course have always been swift to mandate good used parts for collision related repairs.
A few years ago a nationwide company called LKQ got most of the wrecking companies nationwide to form a buy and sell cartel to aid shops like mine locate used parts.
Thus obviously has the potential to reduce new parts sales by manufacturers & their dealers !
To counter that you will often find nowadays that most modules and major units are Vin specific and won't easily transfer over to an identical vehicle under repair in a shop!
Essentially it needs to be brainwashed and given a new identity to work properly on the donor vehicle.
That is the manufacturers responding to junk yard parts !
What does all this mean you might ask?
Well it means that you Mr Owner are being slowly but surely taken out of DIY service repair scenarios which were commonplace on your granddad's Oldsmobile!
Dennis

Bobnoxious
02-23-2017, 08:11 PM
Corporate greed at its best.

MobileCC
02-23-2017, 08:56 PM
I appreciate breathing clean air ..We are lucky to have an agency like the California air resource board that demand this clean air which is expensive ..but better than breathing smog


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Bobnoxious
02-23-2017, 10:12 PM
I appreciate breathing clean air ..We are lucky to have an agency like the California air resource board that demand this clean air which is expensive ..but better than breathing smog


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yep, I myself am kinda partial to breathing clean air as I am drinking clean water. Unfortunately, tap water here is non-potable, at least to my standards. For 40-years regardless of my residence, I install double reverse osmosis filtration system.

MobileCC
02-23-2017, 10:16 PM
https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2017-02-14/beijing-warns-kids-elderly-to-stay-indoors-as-smog-drapes-city


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

lindenengineering
02-24-2017, 12:08 AM
Corporate greed at its best.

Well of course because they (manufacturers) now have the technology to factory program major items to be Vin specific!
Whether thwarting junk yard repair operations and Independent shops or otherwise who cannot or won't invest in THEIR tools & programs you have to make up in your own mind the motive behind it all!

What I do find funny (Not ha ha!):rolleyes: is on one had you have the insurance companies wanting more theft proof cars and potentially salvageable (read valuable harvested items) items to preventive loss; and chop shops selling parted out stolen cars, but then they get frustrated because as a repair/collision body shop most cannot buy the very parts they want Vin protected!
Crazy "Whirled"
Dennis

Aqua Puttana
02-24-2017, 12:33 AM
Throw away your power washer.

Relax a bit.

Try:

Beer...


Wine...


Jack Daniels...


If none of the above work...


Medical marijuana.


A truck doesn't need regular power washing.

vic

P.S. - You may have enough water down in the fan housing that it freezes, traps the fan cage, and after a time when the coolant heats the assembly the ice releases the fan. Once the water is inside the rear heater housing it will not easily leave/evaporate away.

Aqua Puttana
02-24-2017, 12:44 AM
...Unfortunately, tap water here is non-potable, at least to my standards. For 40-years regardless of my residence, I install double reverse osmosis filtration system.
For over 65+ years I have been drinking tap water.

The infamous Love Canal is upstream to our municipal water intakes. That comment is just for dramatics. The real truth is that I am drinking effluent passed down from Detroit, Toledo, Cleveland, Erie, Buffalo, North Tonawanda, and many other industrial/municipal sources.

Water recycles all the time in nature. What doesn't kill you makes you stronger.

Start another thread if you wish to pursue that one.

Back to topic.

vic

eeazye
02-25-2017, 08:26 PM
Throw away your power washer.

Relax a bit.

Try:

Beer...


Wine...


Jack Daniels...


If none of the above work...


Medical marijuana.


A truck doesn't need regular power washing.

vic

P.S. - You may have enough water down in the fan housing that it freezes, traps the fan cage, and after a time when the coolant heats the assembly the ice releases the fan. Once the water is inside the rear heater housing it will not easily leave/evaporate away.

I fully agree with this. Except for certain industrial uses like heavy equip or washing buildings, pressure washers seem like overkill.

As an avid dirtbike rider, I have a lot of experience with mud and pond scum cleaning. I simply use my garden hose, a good biodegradable cleaner, elbow grease, and patience. A lot of my riding buddies use pressure washers, yet always comment on my bike looking like new at the start of the day.

They also go through more suspension bearings, wheel bearings, fork seals, etc. That high pressure water blasts the crud past the lips seals!

Pressure washers are convenient, but do more harm than good in the long run.

Bobnoxious
02-25-2017, 10:12 PM
Experience and common sense are the secrets to successful pressure washer operation. 22-years ago, I purchased a Harbo Harbor freight, 11-horse, Honda powered, 4000 PSI washer to pressure wash a mud splattered, moss covered hovel I purchased in Northern California. It provided almost effortless means of dramatically improving "Curb appeal." Anyways, one has to be prudent on how close apply the spray nozzle.

2011V6
03-05-2017, 09:40 PM
Not sure where all this clean air and water stuff is all about. And I don't abuse or neglect my vehicles. I just need to save money and not just change parts when somthing can be fixed. It's better for the environment if you wanna talk about that.
I have to power wash my spirometers as they are 11 passenger buses and have 50 tourists a day at times jumping in and out with salty feet. I drive in Whister BC where the salt on the roads is very thick and gets over everything. My first sprinter rusted away to nothing because I only power washed it monthly instead of daily.
I normally never have a problem with the power washer except one time when I used it a little to heavy and he out side temp was below freezing.
So I think your rite about the rear floor heater getting to much water around it. But I'm not sure if it's from the power washer. I discovered a big whole outside underneath the heater unit. I'm not sure if it was caused by some debri or from freezing. It's the housing for the whole unit and not the fan or anything else. So I'm not sure if the issue is electrical or not yet. I can hear the fan humming electrically and the element pipe gets hot. But nothing blows.

I used your method and found the break sensor issue. A new one the dealer sold me was faulty.

Now to my check engine light and that code p206d. I took it to a Indi shop that had the same scanner as the dealer and there print out said it was my auxiliary heater unit made by Webasto. Now I can't find any info on where this is located. I'm hoping it's something that I can fix myself.

While iv been to figure all this out I came across some bad news. My oil cooler is leaking. I understand it's around a $2000 job. So ya that sucks.

2011V6
03-05-2017, 09:59 PM
FYI my DEF heater sensor rebuild works great. And the damage I did reinstalling the tank and busting the jet nosel that can't be superglued or gorilla glued etc. I fixed with a combo of super glue first to set it in place. Then I melted a plastic zip tie with a lighter and dropped plastic beads and moles them as they cooled around the broken joint till it was hard and fixed. Strong enough to withstand the psi. Been 6 months and going strong. A cheeper fix than replacing the whole def heater

Daystar
03-06-2017, 02:51 AM
As far as the brake warning light. I had the light go on and checked all four wheels and sensors. No help. Then I topped up the brake fluid and the light went off. The fluid was just below the Max line so I thought that it was ok, but I guess it wants it right up to the line.

2011V6
03-06-2017, 11:27 PM
Good tip. I checked my fluid level it was ok. Turned out to be a faulty sensor. I changed it again. Brake service light is off now. All good

nugget
01-05-2018, 01:17 PM
I have to replace the DEF heater but am nervous of breaking the jet nozzle. When I lower the tank is there a process to avoid breakage. Is the tubing going to the tank real short not allowing one to lower the tank far enough to gain access to the fitting or what? I have not been able to find a video or directions on removing the DEF tank. Can you give me directions or a link for support? Thanks for your time.

Graphite Dave
01-05-2018, 02:00 PM
This means of course technical support and training on the product in question which on some makes and platforms the manufacturer is unwilling to share unless you pay for it or you are a dealer tech.
Its interesting to see how the factory level trade responds to aftermarket forces from trade perspective !
To counter that you will often find nowadays that most modules and major units are Vin specific and won't easily transfer over to an identical vehicle under repair in a shop!
Essentially it needs to be brainwashed and given a new identity to work properly on the donor vehicle.


Now the trend is to prevent independent shops from working on the vehicle in addition to the DIY owner. I use an independent because I like the ability of talking to the tech who does the work instead of a "service adviser". Our 2002 BMW 330ci just had a ABS brake module failure. Took it to a quality independent BMW specialist shop for repair. Part was $1300 and labor quoted at $275. New part purchased from BMW could not be coded to the vehicle computer. BMW will not provide the software so independent uses a subscription support service. Nothing worked to introduce the new part to the vehicle. The independent BMW specialist has a friend who lives 1 1/2 hours from the shop who does have access to the BMW software but that also would not code the part to the vehicle. Now it is believed the new part is defective. BMW used to accept the part and replace it. Now they require their tech to confirm that the part is defective. They also offered to code the part to the car for $275 at the dealer. Bottom line is the car has been out of service for two weeks. BS. Today the independent will take the car to the dealer so they can confirm the bad part. At least the hope is the part is bad. Not my father's Oldsmobile (He actually owned one).

Car was bought new and properly maintained. Now at 120,000 miles it appears to be getting past its design life. Too bad because it has been a great car with little maintenance required. Did have a dead battery problem a couple of months back. Replaced battery because it was 5 years old and did not test as being good. Few days later again a dead battery. Service shop replaced another part they knew could be the problem. Next I drove the car in the morning and walked past the car 3 hours later and heard the electric cooling fan running with a cold engine. Quality German engineering designed the fan to run when it failed.

I will not buy another BMW. Dennis: You may be correct on BMW.

The new 718 Porsche I bought a year ago has so many nanny assists that you have to remember a sequence of events just to drive it. Take a huge "key" that does not fit well in your pocket to start it. Next you have to have your foot on the brake before the electric parking brake will release and next you have to push a button to disable the automatic engine start/stop game. BS I just want a real car that I decide what I want to do.

I will not even comment about the sold 2008 Sprinter and its engineering. This forum is not a good place to comment.

Beginning to look like the only solution is to buy an old car and restore it to get reliability with the driver in control. It would not be a late model German vehicle.

Bobnoxious
01-05-2018, 07:32 PM
Now the trend is to prevent independent shops from working on the vehicle in addition to the DIY owner. I use an independent because I like the ability of talking to the tech who does the work instead of a "service adviser". Our 2002 BMW 330ci just had a ABS brake module failure. Took it to a quality independent BMW specialist shop for repair. Part was $1300 and labor quoted at $275. New part purchased from BMW could not be coded to the vehicle computer. BMW will not provide the software so independent uses a subscription support service. Nothing worked to introduce the new part to the vehicle. The independent BMW specialist has a friend who lives 1 1/2 hours from the shop who does have access to the BMW software but that also would not code the part to the vehicle. Now it is believed the new part is defective. BMW used to accept the part and replace it. Now they require their tech to confirm that the part is defective. They also offered to code the part to the car for $275 at the dealer. Bottom line is the car has been out of service for two weeks. BS. Today the independent will take the car to the dealer so they can confirm the bad part. At least the hope is the part is bad. Not my father's Oldsmobile (He actually owned one).

Car was bought new and properly maintained. Now at 120,000 miles it appears to be getting past its design life. Too bad because it has been a great car with little maintenance required. Did have a dead battery problem a couple of months back. Replaced battery because it was 5 years old and did not test as being good. Few days later again a dead battery. Service shop replaced another part they knew could be the problem. Next I drove the car in the morning and walked past the car 3 hours later and heard the electric cooling fan running with a cold engine. Quality German engineering designed the fan to run when it failed.

I will not buy another BMW. Dennis: You may be correct on BMW.

The new 718 Porsche I bought a year ago has so many nanny assists that you have to remember a sequence of events just to drive it. Take a huge "key" that does not fit well in your pocket to start it. Next you have to have your foot on the brake before the electric parking brake will release and next you have to push a button to disable the automatic engine start/stop game. BS I just want a real car that I decide what I want to do.

I will not even comment about the sold 2008 Sprinter and its engineering. This forum is not a good place to comment.

Beginning to look like the only solution is to buy an old car and restore it to get reliability with the driver in control. It would not be a late model German vehicle.

Crying shame and I feel the same way Dave. 120 grand is nothing for an Asian vehicle. Take my wife's 2008 Prius 120 k, burns no oil and has never left us stranded except for when I left the lights on. Things have failed like the tv thingy in the dash, the steering wheel buttons no longer work but I ain't wasting time or money fixing unnecessary trinkets because she commutes only two-miles one way. Also, it's the car we haul the dog around and the the back seats are trashed.

The Snappy man calls European vehicles "Eurotrash."

I have been looking for a 60's vehicle to restore.