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rcbruba
02-18-2017, 04:19 PM
I have a 2015 Sprinter 3500. I hear the clicking noise when driving at low speeds with the window open. The click corresponds with each revolution and there is nothing stuck in the tire tread. The vehicle mileage is ~10k. Appreciate and thoughts on the cause.

Thanks in advance!
Rcbruba

sailquik
02-18-2017, 06:50 PM
Rcbruba,
Is your 2015 Sprinter 3500 (USA) (actually it either a 516 series with the OM-651 4 cylinder and 7 speed trans or a 519 Series if you have the OM-642 V6 and the 5 speed trans) an RV or RV conversion?
If so, do you have the chrome or Stainless steel "simulator" hub caps?
If so, remove the "simulator" on the left front wheel and I'll bet $$ that the noise goes away!
If you have the stock steel wheels (5.5J x16) and the black plastic disc hub caps (prevents you from any sort of encounter with the sharp threads on the end of the lug studs) then try to manipulate the black disc and see if the plastic part will move at all.
If it moves, go to your nearest authorized Mercedes Benz Sprinter dealer and have them get you a new hub cap under your new vehicle warranty.
Also, have them remove the left front wheel and insure that there are no small rocks
pebbles or other debris rattling around in the black disc hub cap.
If you can move the black plastic disc, but see the SS washers (3) that retain the black disc on on the lug studs also move, then you need to visit your authorized Mercedes Benz Sprinter dealer and have them get out their calibrated torque wrench and check the torque on all of your lug nus (both sides....front and rear) as someone may have not tightened them correctly and you could lose a wheel.
The tightening torque is listed on page 313 of your Operator's manual:

"Tighten the wheel nuts to a tightening torque of 133lb-ft (180Nm)."

Note: Only 516/519 Series (3500 USA) Sprinters have LUG NUTS and LUG Studs in the hubs.

If you have a 316/319 Series (2500 USA) Sprinter you will have LUG BOLTS:
"Tighten the wheel bolts to the following tightening torques:"
"Steel wheel 177lb-ft (240Nm)" USE THE SHORT LUG BOLTS ONLY WITH THESE WHEELS!
"Alloy wheel 133lb-ft (180Nm)" USE THE LONG LUG BOLTS ONLY WITH THE ALLOY WHEELS!

Also note that if you have the SuSi (Super Single Rear tires on 8.5J16 rims) option there are specific torque recommendations for mounting the spare tire adapter on the rear axle and putting your spare tire (215/85R16 on a 5.5J16 rim) on the adapter.
There are also speed limitations and distance that can be driven limitations with the smaller spare tire and wheel on the rear axle with the adapter.
"Vehicles with Super Single tires:
"If you install the spare wheel, do not exceed the maximums peed of 40mph (60km/h) and do not drive further than 65miles (100km).
The transmission could otherwise be damaged by the difference in wheel rotation speeds."
This is new information that I did not have, so thanks for asking your question so I would learn a lot more about the SuSi option.
Hope this helps,
Roger

NelsonSprinter
02-18-2017, 06:54 PM
There may be something (such as a straw, twig) stuck between the wheel and the rotor, hitting a caliper, brake hose, speed sensor or brake shield etc, and may need to remove the wheel to see it.

rcbruba
02-18-2017, 06:59 PM
Thanks Roger, yes, it's a V6 RV chassis with Winnebago simulators. We'll be hitting the road tomorrow, so I'll remove the simulator and see if the noise goes away.

sailquik
02-18-2017, 07:38 PM
rcbruba,
Simulators are notorious for having minor structural failures that make the loose
parts "click" or sometimes even "groan".
Can you tell that I really don't like them?
If you want the look, spend the $$ for a set of Alcoa Forged aluminum wheels.
I actually kinda like the look of the 18 hole OEM wheels in silver.
Might get some powered coated in a chrome look.
Having them chromed doesn't work so well as the chroming process results in
"embrittlement" at the welds in the rim and can cause an otherwise sound wheel
to fail in the weld area.
MB did this many years back and quickly replaced all the chrome wheels.
Could also be as Nelson suggests...something inside the simulator (rock/pebble etc)
or trapped in the brake rotor.
Roger
P.S. You can get the OEM MB Hub Caps (Black Plastic Disc with MB Star in center
that mount on 3 Lug studs for ~$60.00 each.
http://sprinterpartsdepot.com/shop/wheels-hubcaps/sprinter-3500-wheel-covers
I think I paid considerably less at my Mercedes Benz Sprinter Commercial dealer.
They really are a safety feature and prevent shin dings, clothing snags and anything
that gets near the ends of the lug studs.

smiller
02-18-2017, 07:43 PM
Thanks Roger, yes, it's a V6 RV chassis with Winnebago simulators. We'll be hitting the road tomorrow, so I'll remove the simulator and see if the noise goes away.

It will ;)

MeRob
02-19-2017, 03:55 PM
The left front wheel on my 2011 3500 RV Chassis 'ticked' for a month after I first bought it. Agh! My local MB Dealer checked the wheels out, including the wheel nuts torque...and diagnosed the noise as being caused by loose wheel covers...Wrong!

It was the Forum that suggested that I try gently blowing the 'dust' out of the rotors. That worked ! And so far, doing so when necessary has always worked.
Maybe it's worth trying... AFTER checking out the wheels. Rob

WestyToSMB
02-20-2017, 01:18 AM
I have a 2015 Sprinter 3500. I hear the clicking noise when driving at low speeds with the window open. The click corresponds with each revolution and there is nothing stuck in the tire tread. The vehicle mileage is ~10k. Appreciate and thoughts on the cause.

Thanks in advance!
Rcbruba

I have the same issue. My van is a 2015 4x4 2500 with stock steel wheels and OEM black hubcaps. The van has about 17,000 miles and has done this for at least the last 10k. The sound comes from front left wheel between about 15 and 30mph, and sounds like "tika tika tika tika" with a frequency that roughly matches the rpm of the wheel.

I thought it might be pebbles in the hubcap, so I popped it off but found nothing. Still makes the noise. I'll check the torque, but have a hard time imagining that is the trouble.

MobileCC
02-20-2017, 02:14 AM
You sure it's not coming from the rear ..does the parking brake work correctly ..?could be something rolling around in the rear drum parking brake area


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

sailquik
02-20-2017, 04:18 AM
WestyToSMB,
Your 319 Series 4x4 (2500 USA) uses a very different "hub cap" (than a 516/519/3500) which I believe is "retained by some spring clips around the periphery of the hub cap.
I've heard they are kind of hard to get off to get at the lug bolts, but I've never had to change
a tire on a 2500 so I have no first hand experience.
Might be good to remove the hub cap and see if the noise goes away.
If it does, have a look at the hub cap to make sure every thing is solid inside.
Since your tika-tika-tika occurs between 15 mph and 30 mph I would expect the
noise has some other cause than the hub cap, but check the torque on the LUG
BOLTS just to be sure.
Might have to go buy a 3/4" drive torque wrench and a deep socket as the 177 ft. lbs.
is beyond the useable range of nearly all 1/2" drive torque wrenches.
Hope this helps,
Roger

sailquik
02-20-2017, 01:55 PM
Just a little update.
I have a spare 516/519 Series (3500 USA with Dual Rear Wheel (DRW)) front hub cap
that I purchased a while back.
The Part # is A 906 400 02 25.
Looking at the way it was manufactured, the 3 washers (they go under 3 of the 6 front lug
nuts) are molded into the plastic and are not "floating" in any way.
This being the case, there is no way that the front hub cap could be causing a "clicking"
noise unless it was damaged or broken.
A small rock/pebble or other debris could get inside but the way the hub cap seals against
the wheel this is a very remote possibility.
So, pushing on the black front plastic OEM hub cap will only show that the lug nuts are
loose if it moves.
Roger

WestyToSMB
02-22-2017, 01:16 AM
I just realized that the "tika tika tika" sound I hear in the front left was occurring both before and after I had the tires rotated by a Mercedes dealer. I'm still mad that I forgot to mention the sound to the dealer! But, this clue probably eliminates wheel and torque related causes??

sailquik
02-22-2017, 03:50 AM
rcbruba,
So, did removing the left front "simulator" eliminate the "clicking"?
I know you said you were setting off on a trip, but if you get the chance let the
group know if that was indeed the cause of the noise.
Roger