Wiring LED Cargo Lights

Hey guys,

I have a 2012 170wb and want to add some extra lights to the cargo area. I plan on using 6 of these lights: superbrightleds 3-led-dome-light

Is it possible to tap into the existing lights wiring without any issues? I don't plan on using the oem lights anymore. Also should they be wired in a series or a parallel?

Thanks

Don't do it. The existing lights are CANbus controlled and you run the risk of weird electrical gremlins from modifying the stock electrical system.

Run new wires. Use the "body builder terminal" under the driver seat if you need to draw power from the vehicle battery.

The lights you linked to are 12V so you're going to want to run them in parallel.

Great! Thanks for your help.

I added led lights in my cargo van a year ago with no weird things going on,iv got a 2008,that way they work like the factory lights.

I've got 16 led mr 16 in my van - all used to be on stock light wiring however I ran into some issues. There is no rhyme or reason on how long they would stay on. Sometimes for a few minutes and sometimes a few hours. One thing was certain they never worked when you wanted them. So I now have basic light switches and all but 4 lights are run off heir own solar charged batteries in zones all with their own switch. Even added some - six - mr 16 rgb down lights for mood and easy use of a remote for on / off / function. I've got a few RF remotes with controllers for simple 12v on / off / dimming but have yet to install them

Would one of these work to tap into the fuse box under the seat? MINI ATM Fuse TAP
Then ground it to the body?

I installed LED right to existing wiring on my 2015. No issues. Went to IKEA and got all the LED's I wanted and CHEAP$$$$. Just make sure when you look at the box the light is in the out put is 12VDC. cut the Ballast off and you wire direct in. Truck is LIT BRIGHT!

moto67 said:

Would one of these work to tap into the fuse box under the seat? MINI ATM Fuse TAP
Then ground it to the body?

Click to expand...

No need for a tap. There's a body builder terminal under the seat for you to draw power from. Adding an inline fuse between that and your lights would be best practice.

For connector location, see:
http://www.onceagreenberet.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/01/EK1BBElecConnectors2010.pdf

Ground to body, yes. There are two factory ground studs under the front of the driver seat box that you can tie into.

Hi Moto67,

I ran 3 3W LED lights off the existing light wires and wired 6 more 1 W LEDs on their own circuit off the relay switch under the divers seat (via a fuse box). I like the fact that some lights come on when the slider and rear doors are opened. The lights connected to the existing wires operate just as before turning on and off soon after the doors are closed. I am grounded to the chassis. No problems or weird glitches.

Can you please explain how you accomplished the aftermarket lights to come on when you open the slider? Did you just use the normal (+) and (-) form the OEM cargo light to trigger a relay? Thanks!

imsebastian said:

Can you please explain how you accomplished the aftermarket lights to come on when you open the slider? Did you just use the normal (+) and (-) form the OEM cargo light to trigger a relay? Thanks!

Click to expand...

In the roof mounted wire harness or at the existing lights, you’ll want to use the RED (+) wire and the BROWN/BLUE (-) wire. The thing to understand is that the RED is constant +12VDC while the BROWN/BLUE is the “switched” - negative/ground that is controlled by the Body Control Modual dependent on switch position and door status (this wire actually makes the light turn off and on by completing the circuit). The RED is always ON and sourced by fuse #19 @7.5 amps. You can pull it to de-energize the circuit while splicing, or replace it after you’ve accidentally shorted it to ground...

If you want an independently controlled light, use the RED for + and install your own switch to either chassis/frame ground or solid BROWN wire in the harness.

No need to use a relay if your total lighting load is under 7 amps. If it’s going to be higher, use the above circuit to energize the relay and source your load power from under the drivers seat with independent ground.

I installed 8 LED's, 6 on the ceiling and 2 on the back doors, just adding to the existing wires...unraveled the wires going to the rear light/switch over the rear doors and relocated to a new rocker switch in the cab area.... lights come on when doors open,....it's been 3 years with no problem