universal joints

Eric Experience

Well-known member
With the off road driving I do in my 2 4x4's the drive shafts get wet leading to universal jiont failure.I am being forced to tool up to replace the jionts in house. My question is, who manufactures the original jionts and do we have a part number? Any help will be welcome. Eric
 

sikwan

06 Tin Can
At least in the US, the u-joints are not replaceable. The entire assembly, driveshaft & u-joints, need to be replaced.

Maybe they're different in Australia and on the 4x4's?
 

Eric Experience

Well-known member
sikwan.
The shafts are the same here in that the cups are staked into place rather than using circlips. That is why I have to make some tooling for the job, getting the joints is the only problem. Eric.
 

amauri

Member
The local driveshaft shop has the correct u-joints, designed for staking in place w/no c-clips. www.driveshaft.com

I asked about rebuilding w/serviceable joints but they said no.
I asked to see one of the u-joints they use and he pulled from the shelf one that looks just like the original.

edit:
Just called and spoke to them again, they said that they are working on making serviceable driveshafts with Spicer parts that can easily be replaced and sourced. He said the u-joints will also be slightly larger.

They are estimating availability in 30-60 days.
 
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sikwan

06 Tin Can

amauri

Member
I've replaced dozens of u-joints over the years but not the staked types.

I would imagine they have to be pressed out with special fixtures.
Assembling them would be difficult without some way to center them perfectly before staking.
Clip types are easy.
 

sikwan

06 Tin Can
I've replaced dozens of u-joints over the years but not the staked types.

I would imagine they have to be pressed out with special fixtures.
Assembling them would be difficult without some way to center them perfectly before staking.
Clip types are easy.
I got some reading done and apparently the stakes are removed by a cutting tool and ground smooth. In place of it is a c-clip type u-joint with the necessary end caps.

It looks like it's doable for this type of conversion.


Much better than cutting off the yokes for new ones.
 

Eric Experience

Well-known member
Sikwan.
The average dimension from the top of the cup to the face of the yoke is 2.8mm, if you tried to use a 2mm circlip it would be very weak. The inside face of the yoke is angled at about 30 degrees so it is not possible to use an inside circlip. The process I am working on is to mill of the 2.8 mm in one spot and then use a 4mm button head screw to hold and adjust the cup. When I have done one and tested it to distruction I will post the result. Almost all new cars available in Australia now use staked shafts so this will be just part of the evolution process of vehicle maintanence. Eric
 

220629

Well-known member
Seek,
If there are links that used for your reading about this do you mind posting them? I'm curious, but wouldn't know what search. Thanks, vic
I got some reading done and apparently the stakes are removed by a cutting tool and ground smooth. In place of it is a c-clip type u-joint with the necessary end caps.

It looks like it's doable for this type of conversion.
//snip//

Much better than cutting off the yokes for new ones.
 

sikwan

06 Tin Can
Vic...the PDF below is for an F150, but I'm sure the same principle can be applied to the Sprinter...

View attachment 2004_f-150_ujoints.pdf

...while different than what's shown in the PDF...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/ujoint_install/

...the same principle with the c-clips and end-caps can also be applied to the Sprinter.

There's a patent to this process...

http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/7115037/description.html

...I haven't read the entire details of it, but it looked similar to the F150 replacement.


I've also read that some local shop, for a Volvo owner, remove the stakes, installed new u-joints, capped the ends with spacers, and welded the spacers to the yoke. I don't think I would let a shop do that to mine, but just mentioning it as something being done. Welding would certainly do wonders to the grease that's in there. :thumbdown:

An interesting read about the stakes on the F150...

http://www.blueovalforums.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10711&st=0&p=143610&#entry143610
 

sikwan

06 Tin Can
The inside face of the yoke is angled at about 30 degrees so it is not possible to use an inside circlip.
You're right Eric.

A good picture of the angle can be seen here...


There's a copper colored ring on the u-joint just inside the yoke that looked to me to be flat or parallel to the inside surface of the yoke. This is pure conjecture on my part and am just throwing things out there for discussion.
 

220629

Well-known member
Sikwan,
Thanks for the links. Am I correct in assuming the staked Sprinter replacement U-joints have the angled cups?

I don't think welding the cups in place would hurt the grease or rubber seals. It would only take tack welds. As there are so many tacks to make the welder could move around and not really heat up any one unit. That said, they are precision bearing cups that may distort. The welds would be more difficult to remove than the stakes. That may effect a future replacement.

Proper center of the replacements might be a challenge. The taper should take care of that so all they would need is to be clamped into place while tacked? Just some ideas for discussion. vic
 

Eric Experience

Well-known member
Gentlemen.
The links to the Ford repairs are interesting reading but of no relevence to a Sprinter because the ford has the grooves for snap rings left over from early models. The Sprinter does not have any grooves or room for them. The Sprinter uses a very high capacity bearing made using very thin metal known in the bearing trade as a Torinton bearing. They are hardened right through so to weld them would be very foolish. The yoke is 81 mm overall and the original joint is 75 mm overall leaving 2.5-3 mm per side for staking. After being unsuccesful in obtaining the original joints despite the promising link posted on this thread, I am looking at alternative units, one interesting posibility is a Toyota unit that is the same diameter but 81mm over all. If this was used it would bring the cups out flush with the outside of the yoke and remove the need to mill the yokes as mentioned in my earlier post. In trucks the cups are held by a piece of sheet metal with 2 screws in it, this method could be used here and once the screw threads were taped the joint would be servicable very easily, The evolution continues. Eric.
 

220629

Well-known member
Eric,
Here we were merrily creating a solution in the absence of knowledge and you come along to confuse us with the facts.

I hope you're successful in finding a replacement solution. On top of the cost it just seems wasteful to throw away an entire driveshaft which just has a couple bad U-joints. I know they claim staking is better for centering (and probably cheaper for manufacturing), but they know it's a wear part that eventually will need replacement. Should the need arise I will check on the exchange driveshaft with conventional yokes which I believe is presently available.

Thanks for the input and setting me straight. vic
 

mobileoilchange

New member
we build custom cars (show-race-etc) and we alway have custom drive shafts built because you cant buy an off the shelf driveshaft for say a 1967 nova with a 2008 LS3 v8 with a 4l80e transmission with a ford 9" rear end.
We use dennys driveshaft http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/
in my personal drag car (1992 mustang) i run 8.0's in the 1/4 mile and never had a single problem once. he guarantees them and the price is right. its worth a shot to call them. plus hes fast with delivery. just my :2cents:
 

220629

Well-known member
M_O_C,
Holy crap! They're in Kenmore, NY. Literally 15 minutes from where I live. I'll stop by next time I'm in their area just to see the shop.

Not Sprinter related, but here's a couple other really good shops in our area.
http://www.competitiontransmission.com/
http://www.northeastmachine.com/

It's a small world. Thanks for the heads up. vic
we build custom cars (show-race-etc) and we alway have custom drive shafts built because you cant buy an off the shelf driveshaft for say a 1967 nova with a 2008 LS3 v8 with a 4l80e transmission with a ford 9" rear end.
We use dennys driveshaft http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/
in my personal drag car (1992 mustang) i run 8.0's in the 1/4 mile and never had a single problem once. he guarantees them and the price is right. its worth a shot to call them. plus hes fast with delivery. just my :2cents:
 
In a former life selling automotive parts, I found several machine shops made driveshafts using parts from Spicer. The last I knew, Spicer was part of Dana Corporation. You might check with them.
 

Eric Experience

Well-known member
Amauri
Drive line dot com. where happy to sell me a unit that was similar but not the original. The genuine unit has about double the strengh of the standard design units they offer. Eric.
 

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