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brewfox
12-21-2016, 04:41 PM
I've been having my 3 ABS lights come on after I drive for a mile or so. I had my codes read yesterday, and suspect a similar problem described in this thread:
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38224&highlight=p2208

Is there a way to check the brake switch for proper functionality? Could it be something else on the CAN bus?

I did replace all my tail/brake lights with LEDs. I'm also experiencing the problem every once in awhile where the car "returns to idle" while driving for 2 seconds regardless of what I'm doing with the accelerator. Can this behavior only be controlled by the brake switch, or can anything on the CAN bus do it? I didn't think these problems would be related, but kind of happy that it explains the weird zero power and deactivation of the accelerator pedal. I was worried it was indicative of some major problem.

Here are the codes I got when doing a read:
Active code: p2208 Antilock Brake system brake signal controller area network message implausible. Also the same code with slightly different description: "Brake signal plausibility".

Pending codes:
p2514: Crankcase heater short to ground
P2153: Starter relay circuit open or short
P2153: Starter relay circuit engine control module thermal overload (Maybe I tried to start the engine too cold and cranked it for awhile?)

OEM Pending code - secondary system
P2404 Stop lamp switch traction system

The P2404 makes me think the LEDs are causing it to be angry. I can run by the auto parts store and try swapping the LED bulbs out for regular ones. I'm guessing it doesn't need specialized lamps.

Any other ideas on how to diagnose/fix this?

Also a quick thank you to everyone that contributes on this forum. I've been able to solve SO many problems thanks to all the great informative posts on here. You are all amazing.

brewfox
12-21-2016, 04:45 PM
Also, this may or may not be related, but I'd love to know what this thing is. On the driver's side front brake assembly, there's this sensor looking thing that I *think* attaches to this post thing? The plastic is kind of broken though, and doesn't seem to attach right. Is this where it actually goes? What does it do? It doesn't seem to make much difference when I connect/disconnect it.

https://i.imgur.com/9Vx0sw5.jpg

Midwestdrifter
12-21-2016, 05:43 PM
If the description of the error codes is correct, a CAN bus message would not be related to the brake switch? The ABS module reads the brake switch and reports its status to the other modules I believe.

Sounds like a communication problem? Replacing the brake switch is not very difficult, and its a cheapish part. So it might be worth doing as a troubleshooting test.

brewfox
12-21-2016, 06:56 PM
Forget I mentioned the LED bulbs, I remember this problem happening on the way home from the test drive before I did anything. It was more intermittent then, mostly constant now.

edit: nScratch that. It had a broken taillight wire that I fixed. Seems like it could still be the bulbs?

Of course before I got the codes read, I got gas, and then couldn't get the lights to come back on for 30 min. driving around the block.

brewfox
12-21-2016, 07:00 PM
If the description of the error codes is correct, a CAN bus message would not be related to the brake switch? The ABS module reads the brake switch and reports its status to the other modules I believe.

Sounds like a communication problem? Replacing the brake switch is not very difficult, and its a cheapish part. So it might be worth doing as a troubleshooting test.

Maybe the brake light switch is sending unrecognized values to ABS? Sounds worth a try to replace.

brewfox
12-23-2016, 03:22 AM
Today before the lights went on, I tried pressing both the brake and accelerator. Engine still revved up. Seems more and more like the switch. Will install tomorrow.

autostaretx
12-23-2016, 06:32 PM
Also, this may or may not be related, but I'd love to know what this thing is. On the driver's side front brake assembly, there's this sensor looking thing that I *think* attaches to this post thing? The plastic is kind of broken though, and doesn't seem to attach right. Is this where it actually goes? What does it do? It doesn't seem to make much difference when I connect/disconnect it.

Let's make that a reasonable size for the boys and girls, shall we?

81736

The "post thing" looks like a brake bleeder valve (you use a wrench to grab the "flats", loosen just a bit (1/2 turn? 1 turn?) and brake fluid can then dribble out when you're "bleeding" (removing air from) the brake system.
It has a somewhat pointy tip to ease pushing a length of rubber/plastic tubing on it to catch the dribble and route it to a convenient container.
Whatever: it is NOT an electrical connection point.

What the thing in your hand is ... i don't know. ... Where does the wire (or tube) attached to it go?

From your symptoms i'd suspect the brake pedal switch (or the wires/connector) leading to it.
I would NOT suspect the CAN bus (but i haven't looked up the error yet)

--dick (off-the-cuff analysis)
Question to other folks: is that maybe a wheel-speed sensor connector? (i've never looked at mine)

Aqua Puttana
12-24-2016, 12:42 PM
Let's make that a reasonable size for the boys and girls, shall we?

...
THANK YOU! :clapping:

It looks to me like he is holding an unmounted connector for the brake wear monitor pigtail plug. That connector is normally bolted on to the brake caliper assembly steel.

LED lamps in the tail light assemblies can create some odd responses.

vic

brewfox
12-24-2016, 10:21 PM
Brake bleeder valve makes sense. I have no idea where the electrical thing connects to then. I looked around and didn't see anything obvious, I'll give it another look later.

Replaced the brake switch yesterday and haven't experienced the lights or sudden losses in power in my short 15 min test drive. Things are looking up!

Replacement was easy:
1) Disconnect connector
2) Reach behind where connector was to get a nice grip on the switch and turn it clockwise. Pull towards the front of the car to remove.
3) Put the new one in, hold the little tab to turn counter clockwise into position. I found it a lot easier to grab it from behind to turn.
4) Plug in the connector with some jiggling

15 min replacement, $28 dealership part (cheaper online, but I wanted OEM to be sure).

I put a multimeter on the removed switch, and the pins that should be shorted were intermittent, could def cause the computer to get angry.

I would NEVER have been able to figure this out without hints from previous posts describing such a similar problem. Standing on the shoulders of giants.

Aqua Puttana
12-25-2016, 05:54 PM
... I have no idea where the electrical thing connects to then. I looked around and didn't see anything obvious, I'll give it another look later.

...
The brake wear sensor that the connector is for inserts directly into the brake pad proper. There is a white piggly wiggly tail wire that is then plugged into the connector you were holding.

The brake wear sensor doesn't come with all aftermarket brake pads. Your present pads may not have ever had the brake wear sensor installed. That is likely why you have nothing to plug into.

The ATE type sensor is shown here. Mouse over the pic for a better view.
http://europarts-sd.com/brakepadwearsensor-typea2002-2006.asp

vic

brewfox
12-25-2016, 07:30 PM
The brake wear sensor that the connector is for inserts directly into the brake pad proper. There is a white piggly wiggly tail wire that is then plugged into the connector you were holding.

The brake wear sensor doesn't come with all aftermarket brake pads. Your present pads may not have ever had the brake wear sensor installed. That is likely why you have nothing to plug into.

The ATE type sensor is shown here. Mouse over the pic for a better view.
http://europarts-sd.com/brakepadwearsensor-typea2002-2006.asp

vic

You are the best. Thanks for this, and all your previous help :)

brewfox
12-28-2016, 12:30 AM
I haven't experienced either the "loss of power" or brake system warning lights after driving a fair amount. I'm going to call this a brake switch problem and be very glad such a simple fix knocked out two elusive problems. Thanks everyone!