Start Battery Replacement Information

220629

Well-known member
Search: Dead replace chassis install battery.

This is less a real Write-up than it is a collection of Group 49 battery information.

Both the T1N and NCV3 (when lead acid OEM) models use a Group 49 battery. The T1N chassis (start) battery is mounted under the hood. The T1N optional OEM aux aka house battery is located under the passenger seat. The NCV3 chassis battery is mounted under the driver footwell with the NCV3 optional OEM aux aka house battery being located under the hood.

49 49x 93 H8 are often associated with Group 49 battery designations.

The T1N battery is held in place by 2 ea. low mounted clamps using 8mm studs/10 mm nuts. I used a long extension with a 10 mm socket to access the fasteners. You might be able to use a box/open end wrench, but it would be tough. A 10 mm box/open end wrench works fine on the battery terminals.

The battery pulls up and straight out, but needs a steep angle. My Varta OEM battery weighed 53# (scrap weight) so be ready.

Even though I had greased the stud, the aft clamp nut on my 2004 rusted fast in the 6 years since changing my battery. The stud mount broke loose to just spin. I ultimately used a giant screwdriver with hammer to destroy the stud mount. I explored using a marine battery strap as replacement, but ultimately decided that the intact single front mount was good enough. I strongly suggest applying generous amounts of wheel bearing grease or other rust preventative on the mount studs as a maintenance pre-emptive strike against problems.

Added:
The 2004 had 2 each battery hold down clamps. My 2006 has only 1 each clamp OEM. So that kinda verifies that one 2004 clamp remaining is fine.

The information.
As always clicking on the blue arrow icon within any quote box will take you to the original post/thread.

Doktor A warns against delaying battery replacement.
The SKREEM module is a component especially sensitive to electrical system abuse. I have observed that vehicles with a history of battery/alternator issues leading to frequent jump starts, booster starts, etc. suffer from higher rates of SKREEM failure.

There are 2 versions of SKREEM modules, one used in vehicles with remote door lock feature and one version in manual door lock versions. Remote Key Entry (RKE) is part of SKREEM function if vehicle is so optioned.
[Added Note/vic: The two systems have different SKREEM key chip security response. The door lock Fob RKE will allow crank/start, but quickly dies to display Start Error. The manual lock version disables cranking completely and displays Start Error immediately. I suspect that the design difference relates to OEM remote start capability.]

Replacement SKREEM modules must be ordered from the dealer and are designated as a restricted part number.

The modules are overnight processed and programmed (to your VIN) in a MBenz facility in Texas but only if your Sprinter has the remote door lock version.

Manual door lock versions utilize a dedicated programming device MBenz located in Germany and must be processed and shipped from the fatherland.

There is good news/bad news. Manual door lock version replacement SKREEM modules are 1/2 price of the remote lock version but wait time for processing in Germany can approach 1 month in spite of dealer's priority service request.

Take care of your SKREEM (and all other modules) by acting quickly if any weak battery symptoms arise and throw away those jumper cables and quick starting aides. Doktor A
My Battery 5 Year Replacement Schedule Logic

I wouldn't argue with Dick at all from a technical perspective regarding his post. I include the inconvenience factor in my battery replacement decisions. With a company vehicle that inconvenience can quickly translate into dollars. I dug this up with a search.

... I always applied a "replace the battery every 5 years" personal rule. My logic is that you may very well get 6 (7??) years out of the battery, but if you miss that milestone it is extremely likely it will fail when you're trying to make an important meeting, it is -10 degrees F, or you're going for your "never in your wildest dreams" movie date somewhere in that 5 to 6 (7??)year range. If you keep the vehicle for 15 years and replace the battery every 6 (7??) years you will have purchased 2 batteries. If you keep the vehicle 15 years and replace the battery every 5 years you will have purchased 2 batteries. The decision seems simple to me to avoid the potential aggravation.
...
Good luck. vic
My recent experience. (Surprisingly the voltage on my "just let me down battery" was 12.64 volts the next morning 28F ambient.)
:hmmm:

:doh:

:bash:

:lol:

Just yesterday I thought that the 2004 cranked just a touch slower/longer than usual. (Why didn't I take the hint?) :rolleyes:

Today I parked for lunch and hit REST to scavenge some heat for man's best friend.

Came out to an almost start... but, no. :cry:

Fortunately the restaurant owner brought his SUV over for a jump so little inconvenience. (In my opinion, a jump start for a "just bad" battery has less risk factor for module damage as opposed to the possible voltage spikes possible with a completely flat battery.)

Home Depot has a group 49 battery at good price, but they don't list "Group 49" anywhere on the battery rack or on the web search.

Using an old fashioned dog eared paper catalog the Sprinters can use an Exide L5-49x. To add to the confusion the Home Depot Exide battery is labeled L5/49/H8 without any mention of Group 49. L5-49x is in very small letters on the rack label.

So.
L5/49/H8 is fine for Sprinters. 900 CCA. 109 119 bucks.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Exide-Extreme-L5-49-Auto-Battery-L5-49X/204852602
Note: At the time of this post the picture in the link is generic and not representative of the Group 49. (Note: The Exide battery has a built in flip down carry handle which is not easily noticed.)

vic
P.S. - I shoulda gone to my old post.
P.P.S. - Just checked my records. Interstate battery Purchased Jan. 2011. Almost 6 years. I should have stayed with my 5 year replacement program, but I'm nursing the 2004 along. :bash:
Some General Battery Information

I found it interesting that in the Interstate pdf the warrany was 10 months less for the group 49 battery. It seems as though the three batteries below are are basically goup 49 by the (49) included. The 93 battery may be better for colder climates with its higher 850 CCA. FWIW. vic


49 (93) MT-49 750 940 130 75 14-3/8 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top

93 (49) MTP-93 850 1065 155 85 14-3/8 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top

H8 (49) MTP-H8 720 900 176 85 13-15/16 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top

http://www.interstatebatteries.com


Start Battery Replacement Options

The Sprinter starting battery is generally a Group 49 battery designation. There are other choices which may give better service or better price so I include them here. vic

I found it interesting that in the Interstate pdf the warrany was 10 months less for the group 49 battery. It seems as though the three batteries below are are basically goup 49 by the (49) included. The 93 battery may be better for colder climates with its higher 850 CCA. FWIW. vic


49 (93) MT-49 750 940 130 75 14-3/8 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top

93 (49) MTP-93 850 1065 155 85 14-3/8 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top

H8 (49) MTP-H8 720 900 176 85 13-15/16 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top

http://www.interstatebatteries.com
The higher number in the chart to right of the CCA is CA/MCA.

"CA and MCA ratings are at 32 degrees F, while CCA is at zero degree F. Unfortunately, the only positive way to tell with some batteries is to buy one and cut it open - not much of an option."

CCA:
Cold Cranking Amps - The number of amps a battery can deliver for 30 seconds at 00 F and maintain 7.2 volts

RC
Reserve Capacity - The amount of minutes a battery can be discharged to 10.5 volts by 25-amp discharge at 800F. (typo? maybe 80F?)

CA
Cranking Amps - Cranking power for 30 seconds at 32°F are approximations only and should not be confused with CCA.

Be careful that you are comparing like for like on printed ratings.



The original thread is here. Thanks goes to all contributors.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21530

Added:
I noticed that our local Home Depot stocks Exide Batteries.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Exide-Extreme-L5-49-Auto-Battery-L5-49X/204852602

Home Depot has the battery we need.

...

Selection guide.
http://www.showmetheparts.com/n2ebattery/

http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/batbrand.htm said:
To identify the manufacturer, ask the dealer or check the battery's Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS). The manufacturer's code number on the battery will also identify the manufacturer. For differentiating quality, features or warranty periods, battery manufacturers will sometimes have product lines within a trademark or brand, for example, Bronze, Silver, Gold, Platinum, Titanium, Premium, Heavy Duty, Commercial, Standard, Plus, Turbo, Calcium, Classic, Maintenance Free (MF), etc. They will also contract with other manufacturers to build and private label batteries to complete their product lines, for example, specialty batteries, that are not economically feasible to build themselves. Motorcycle batteries are listed in the Powersports starting classification and motive, traction, standby, stationary, solar, and Valve Regulated Lead-Acid (VRLA) AGM and Gel Cell. Sealed Lead-Acid (SLA) batteries are classified as deep cycle batteries.
Manufacturer information
http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/batbrand.htm

A possible OEM style battery.


...

I went to Advance Auto Parts last night and was very surprised to see what looked like an identical battery under the "Autocraft Gold" brand (size 49H8) for $130 [$175 as of Dec. 2016]. The plastics look like they are from the same mold, though I did not do a side-by-side comparison; I examined where the handles connect to the top, the handle shapes, and the max/min markings on the side which appear identical.

The Autocraft battery is labeled "Made in Mexico". The top is black instead of the original's white color, and someone put the stickers over the fill ports :idunno:

This thread is confusing me as to what people are talking about.

An FYI - the starting battery is at Advance Auto Parts for 100-140 bucks, under the Autocraft brand. I see they are offering a Gold and a Titanium. I had an email exchange with Varta at one point. The Titanium battery is made by Johnson Controls, which is Varta, which is the OEM battery. It's the same battery.

Jumping - there is a lot wierd-ass advice out there. Much of it is basically to avoid creating sparks over the battery. If a battery has been sitting dead in a vehicle, gasses may be present around the battery that could explode. So think about that while hooking up your cables - but not too hard.
[Added/vic: I always blow over the battery top before connecting the cables. The idea is to get any possible cloud of hydrogen away from the connection spark.]

...
There is no way to tell if the plates are fabricated the same, but there is no obviously large difference when peering through a fill port.

...
vic
 
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220629

Well-known member
An observation. (Which may have little value.)

Over a time I had noticed that my old style analog voltmeter which I added to my 2004 has been drifting to lower voltages than previously witnessed. Lately it was not unusual to see the voltmeter fairly quickly drift down into the mid-range of 13 volts. That is a bit lower than I recall over the previous few years.

After installing the new Exide battery I noticed the voltmeter is again initially well above the 14 volt mark. Today during a fairly long drive it drifted down a bit below the 14 volts, but not at all down to 13 volt mid-range.

I mention this as something to consider if you are on the fence as to replacing your older battery or not. If your performance monitor voltage display is trending down into the mid-range of 13 volts it may be a prompt to replace your older battery sooner rather than later.

I have no historical data except to mention that a 5 year battery replacement schedule will avoid these decisions.

vic
 

Old Crows

Calypso 2014 View Profile
The downward slide of the volt meter sounds ohhhh soooo familiar. My Chebby truck and Jeep Wrangler did that when the batteries got to EoL.
 

Arnie_Oli

Member
Just ordered my own replacement today. In the U.K. Sprinter batteries are called type 019. This is the longer size found in the Sprinter rated at near 100Ah and 800CCA. There's a slight variation in both Calis across the range. I wanted to get a Varta or Bosch, but plumped for a Lion as it was half the price.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401015209916

Mine was discharging when stood over a few weeks and then didn't have enough to crank.

Not sure how long current battery has been in there as it is the Mercedes branded one and the original part number. If it is the original it has done ten years.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro which means I am probably lying under the van wishing I had a crawler and a large warm workshop I could park in.
 

220629

Well-known member
...

Not sure how long current battery has been in there as it is the Mercedes branded one and the original part number. If it is the original it has done ten years.

...
Some of the OEM white cased Varta batteries have been reported to have very long service life. The Varta I pulled out of my 2004 was noticeably heavier than the Interstate battery which replaced it.

My 2006 Freightliner has a white case Varta battery. Some DIY load testing using headlights and my Aux Espar heater show that the battery maintains voltage ok. I keep hoping that maybe the battery is a dealership replacement so newer than 10 years old. I hope for that... but really I know the reality is likely I'm on borrowed time. Having just purchased a battery for my 2004 I'd rather delay another battery purchase until after the Christmas season.

vic
 

Arnie_Oli

Member
Quite by chance I managed to get two Varta 225Ah heavy duty dual purpose batteries for the leisure side. Both were used before but cost me pennies as I got them via either eBay or gumtree locally. They 'just' fit under the chassis behind the sills. Kinda bummed out that I had to buy a third!


I built a nice frame to house one on one side. I now have to weld up the second...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro which means I am probably lying under the van wishing I had a crawler and a large warm workshop I could park in.
 

220629

Well-known member
Some Battery Weights.

Scrapyard scale.

Varta OEM = 53# = $13.00 scrap (25% heavier than Interstate Group 49)

Interstate = 42# = $11.00 scrap (20% lighter than Varta Group 49)

Exide
I have no scale weight. The Exide felt heavier than the Interstate that I removed from my 2004, but lighter than the OEM Varta that I carried into the scrap yard. (But that isn't what the spec sheet indicates.)

Exide L5/49/H8 Specification
(Assumes equal to the Exide 5L-49x.)

Weight = 25.4 kg / 55.9 lb (Agrees with spec weight on Home Depot site.)

http://www.exide.com/media/partscatalog/documents/Battery Specification Sheet L5-49X.PDF


It has been mentioned here that all basic things being equal a heavier battery is probably better than the light(er) one. My 2004 Varta lasted 7 years. The Interstate lasted 6.

To be fair. The Interstate Energizer Group 49 was purchased from Sams Club. Interstate does offer 2 ea. Group 49 batteries.

24 month
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/...1-2147384879-4294493586-4257241782-2147384906

18 month
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/...1-2147384879-4294493586-4257241782-2147384906

Sams Club likely stocked the lower end battery. (Both above are now listed at 48#?)

All considered, I feel that pound for pound the Exide battery at Home Depot still seems a good value.

FWIW.

vic
 
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220629

Well-known member
Today I replaced my 2006 Freightliner white Varta battery. I have no service records regarding the battery. It is labeled with the Mercedes star. I wouldn't be surprised if it is OEM, but 11 years is a long life for a battery.

Recently I've noticed the battery voltage at around 12.3 volts some mornings. The other day the engine seemed to have a slightly slow crank. There is no reason to repeat my 2004 experience that was within a week of being 1 year ago.
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=509016#post509016

I looked around for battery deals, but ended up back at Home Depot. The Exide H8/Group 49 battery is still 119 bucks.

Some observations.
The Varta orange positive terminal protector transfers directly to the Exide.

There is vent capability at each end of the Exide battery. Both Exide batteries came with a plug in the positive end vent. My 2004 vent tube was at the negative end so that was ok. The 2006 is vented on the positive end. There is a little plug which I levered out with a pocket knife. The plug is then moved to close the negative end. My preference would be for 2006 vent tube positive side location. The 2004 tube is kinda squished where it is. The 2006 passed easily down beside the Espar heater and below.

The Exide seemed as heavy as the removed Varta. No weight on this Varta because I'm putting it into service as my 12 volt test supply to replace an older battery.

The Exide battery is very much a direct replacement for the Sprinter start battery. There may be better pricing for the Exide H8, but I didn't find it from my local suppliers.

:cheers: vic
 
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patineto

New member
Hi, I know nothing about Sprinters besides the fact I want one really bad...

Battery's I have deal with for a long time, not as a Tech, but as a motorcycle rider that require absolute reliability, For my big GS's I used "Odyssey's 680", the battery never ever fail me and last me good 6-7 years of daily riding +/- 35.000-40.000 miles per year) not to mention I dump them many times and no battery fluid was ever spill (You can mount them flat, upside down, it makes absolutely no difference)

Anyway with my land cruiser i just install a Group 31 Optima on the same space as the standard lead acid (30% more capacity they say)


They are not cheap, but I consider them cheap insurance, plus they do last a good time longer, specially when you are prone to bounce around and the lead acid tend to fail..

This is the day I got the battery, before I install the retention strap (the stock strap worked)


I hope it helps to open up more choices..
 

PATECO

Member
I have been using these batteries in my T1N EverStart Maxx Lead Acid Automotive Battery, Group Size H8 $122.76 They come with a three year replacement warrantee, but tend to die at about 2 1/2 years here in S Florida. On my last truck, I got 3 free battery replacements over the life of the truck. On this truck, I am on my first free replacement (last month) after buying the original one 2.5 years ago.

Yes they are not great batteries, but they are cheap, and from my experience you only need to buy one for the life of the vehicle.

PS make sure you keep your receipt. ( I make a lazer/photo copy of the thermal receipt from Walmart, and tape it to the battery in a sealed zip loc bag.)
 

Attachments

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220629

Well-known member
From a recent thread.

When I was in Walmart Automotive buying tires
...

If money is an object you could check with them. Since I plan to travel in the USA and their service and warranty is , I would consider thm.

...
bill in tomahawk
I'm not saying that it isn't a good deal, but copy and keep the receipt safe.

I have been using these batteries in my T1N EverStart Maxx Lead Acid Automotive Battery, Group Size H8 $122.76 They come with a three year replacement warrantee, but tend to die at about 2 1/2 years here in S Florida. On my last truck, I got 3 free battery replacements over the life of the truck. On this truck, I am on my first free replacement (last month) after buying the original one 2.5 years ago.

Yes they are not great batteries, but they are cheap, and from my experience you only need to buy one for the life of the vehicle.

PS make sure you keep your receipt. ( I make a lazer/photo copy of the thermal receipt from Walmart, and tape it to the battery in a sealed zip loc bag.)
vic

Added:

Everstart Maxx H8

Specifications
Battery Type: Lead Acid
Model No.: MAXX-H8
Shipping Weight (in pounds): 59.2
Product in Inches (L x W x H): 13.9 x 6.9 x 7.5

If accurate for actual weight, 59# is at the higher end of Group 49 H8 battery weight. The Everstart Maxx reviews ain't so great. Maybe my "heavier is better" advice isn't worth much?

From a Walmart review:
"Took to Wally world and they tested it as bad, so offered a pro-rated amount towards a new one. Once all was said and done, they said, "Oh, by the way, the new battery you just bought only comes with whatever warranty was left on your old battery, not the 5-years it says on it." At that point, I had them void the sale since I was paying more for a battery with half a warranty, than if I just took the pro-rated refund and bought a new battery with warranty. Too many people I know who have these have had them go all the sudden long before the warranty period was up. I'm not leaving my fate on the side of the road to these batteries again. You'll take your chances here... "
 
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220629

Well-known member
Nothing earth shattering added with this.

When I changed out the 2006 chassis start battery I noticed that MB reduced the battery hold down clamp number to one omly. On the 2004 the battery tray was a bit rotted. It was still intact as a tray, but of the two OEM clamps the one clamp nut twisted the welded stud out of the tray during the attempted nut removal. I just installed the one good clamp. Being that MB has reduced to one clamp since 2004, I feel better about that choice.

As an aside. I changed the 2004 battery today. During the last change about 4 years ago I brushed... see it coming... heavy duty wheel bearing grease on the leftover parts of the somewhat rotted battery tray. I didn't do anything else to remediate the rusted tray. The grease kept the tray basically intact as it was left years ago with that new battery installation. (Needless to say I greased the still looking good 2006 battery tray during the new battery installation.)

The 2004 continues to hang in. (fingers crossed)

vic
 

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