Search: Dead replace chassis install battery.
This is less a real Write-up than it is a collection of Group 49 battery information.
Both the T1N and NCV3 (when lead acid OEM) models use a Group 49 battery. The T1N chassis (start) battery is mounted under the hood. The T1N optional OEM aux aka house battery is located under the passenger seat. The NCV3 chassis battery is mounted under the driver footwell with the NCV3 optional OEM aux aka house battery being located under the hood.
49 49x 93 H8 are often associated with Group 49 battery designations.
The T1N battery is held in place by 2 ea. low mounted clamps using 8mm studs/10 mm nuts. I used a long extension with a 10 mm socket to access the fasteners. You might be able to use a box/open end wrench, but it would be tough. A 10 mm box/open end wrench works fine on the battery terminals.
The battery pulls up and straight out, but needs a steep angle. My Varta OEM battery weighed 53# (scrap weight) so be ready.
Even though I had greased the stud, the aft clamp nut on my 2004 rusted fast in the 6 years since changing my battery. The stud mount broke loose to just spin. I ultimately used a giant screwdriver with hammer to destroy the stud mount. I explored using a marine battery strap as replacement, but ultimately decided that the intact single front mount was good enough. I strongly suggest applying generous amounts of wheel bearing grease or other rust preventative on the mount studs as a maintenance pre-emptive strike against problems.
Added:
The 2004 had 2 each battery hold down clamps. My 2006 has only 1 each clamp OEM. So that kinda verifies that one 2004 clamp remaining is fine.
The information.
As always clicking on the blue arrow icon within any quote box will take you to the original post/thread.
Doktor A warns against delaying battery replacement.
I found it interesting that in the Interstate pdf the warrany was 10 months less for the group 49 battery. It seems as though the three batteries below are are basically goup 49 by the (49) included. The 93 battery may be better for colder climates with its higher 850 CCA. FWIW. vic
49 (93) MT-49 750 940 130 75 14-3/8 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top
93 (49) MTP-93 850 1065 155 85 14-3/8 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top
H8 (49) MTP-H8 720 900 176 85 13-15/16 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top
http://www.interstatebatteries.com
A possible OEM style battery.
This is less a real Write-up than it is a collection of Group 49 battery information.
Both the T1N and NCV3 (when lead acid OEM) models use a Group 49 battery. The T1N chassis (start) battery is mounted under the hood. The T1N optional OEM aux aka house battery is located under the passenger seat. The NCV3 chassis battery is mounted under the driver footwell with the NCV3 optional OEM aux aka house battery being located under the hood.
49 49x 93 H8 are often associated with Group 49 battery designations.
The T1N battery is held in place by 2 ea. low mounted clamps using 8mm studs/10 mm nuts. I used a long extension with a 10 mm socket to access the fasteners. You might be able to use a box/open end wrench, but it would be tough. A 10 mm box/open end wrench works fine on the battery terminals.
The battery pulls up and straight out, but needs a steep angle. My Varta OEM battery weighed 53# (scrap weight) so be ready.
Even though I had greased the stud, the aft clamp nut on my 2004 rusted fast in the 6 years since changing my battery. The stud mount broke loose to just spin. I ultimately used a giant screwdriver with hammer to destroy the stud mount. I explored using a marine battery strap as replacement, but ultimately decided that the intact single front mount was good enough. I strongly suggest applying generous amounts of wheel bearing grease or other rust preventative on the mount studs as a maintenance pre-emptive strike against problems.
Added:
The 2004 had 2 each battery hold down clamps. My 2006 has only 1 each clamp OEM. So that kinda verifies that one 2004 clamp remaining is fine.
The information.
As always clicking on the blue arrow icon within any quote box will take you to the original post/thread.
Doktor A warns against delaying battery replacement.
My Battery 5 Year Replacement Schedule LogicThe SKREEM module is a component especially sensitive to electrical system abuse. I have observed that vehicles with a history of battery/alternator issues leading to frequent jump starts, booster starts, etc. suffer from higher rates of SKREEM failure.
There are 2 versions of SKREEM modules, one used in vehicles with remote door lock feature and one version in manual door lock versions. Remote Key Entry (RKE) is part of SKREEM function if vehicle is so optioned.
[Added Note/vic: The two systems have different SKREEM key chip security response. The door lock Fob RKE will allow crank/start, but quickly dies to display Start Error. The manual lock version disables cranking completely and displays Start Error immediately. I suspect that the design difference relates to OEM remote start capability.]
Replacement SKREEM modules must be ordered from the dealer and are designated as a restricted part number.
The modules are overnight processed and programmed (to your VIN) in a MBenz facility in Texas but only if your Sprinter has the remote door lock version.
Manual door lock versions utilize a dedicated programming device MBenz located in Germany and must be processed and shipped from the fatherland.
There is good news/bad news. Manual door lock version replacement SKREEM modules are 1/2 price of the remote lock version but wait time for processing in Germany can approach 1 month in spite of dealer's priority service request.
Take care of your SKREEM (and all other modules) by acting quickly if any weak battery symptoms arise and throw away those jumper cables and quick starting aides. Doktor A
My recent experience. (Surprisingly the voltage on my "just let me down battery" was 12.64 volts the next morning 28F ambient.)I wouldn't argue with Dick at all from a technical perspective regarding his post. I include the inconvenience factor in my battery replacement decisions. With a company vehicle that inconvenience can quickly translate into dollars. I dug this up with a search.
Good luck. vic... I always applied a "replace the battery every 5 years" personal rule. My logic is that you may very well get 6 (7??) years out of the battery, but if you miss that milestone it is extremely likely it will fail when you're trying to make an important meeting, it is -10 degrees F, or you're going for your "never in your wildest dreams" movie date somewhere in that 5 to 6 (7??)year range. If you keep the vehicle for 15 years and replace the battery every 6 (7??) years you will have purchased 2 batteries. If you keep the vehicle 15 years and replace the battery every 5 years you will have purchased 2 batteries. The decision seems simple to me to avoid the potential aggravation.
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Some General Battery Information
Just yesterday I thought that the 2004 cranked just a touch slower/longer than usual. (Why didn't I take the hint?)
Today I parked for lunch and hit REST to scavenge some heat for man's best friend.
Came out to an almost start... but, no.
Fortunately the restaurant owner brought his SUV over for a jump so little inconvenience. (In my opinion, a jump start for a "just bad" battery has less risk factor for module damage as opposed to the possible voltage spikes possible with a completely flat battery.)
Home Depot has a group 49 battery at good price, but they don't list "Group 49" anywhere on the battery rack or on the web search.
Using an old fashioned dog eared paper catalog the Sprinters can use an Exide L5-49x. To add to the confusion the Home Depot Exide battery is labeled L5/49/H8 without any mention of Group 49. L5-49x is in very small letters on the rack label.
So.
L5/49/H8 is fine for Sprinters. 900 CCA.109119 bucks.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Exide-Extreme-L5-49-Auto-Battery-L5-49X/204852602
Note: At the time of this post the picture in the link is generic and not representative of the Group 49. (Note: The Exide battery has a built in flip down carry handle which is not easily noticed.)
vic
P.S. - I shoulda gone to my old post.
P.P.S. - Just checked my records. Interstate battery Purchased Jan. 2011. Almost 6 years. I should have stayed with my 5 year replacement program, but I'm nursing the 2004 along.
I found it interesting that in the Interstate pdf the warrany was 10 months less for the group 49 battery. It seems as though the three batteries below are are basically goup 49 by the (49) included. The 93 battery may be better for colder climates with its higher 850 CCA. FWIW. vic
49 (93) MT-49 750 940 130 75 14-3/8 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top
93 (49) MTP-93 850 1065 155 85 14-3/8 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top
H8 (49) MTP-H8 720 900 176 85 13-15/16 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top
http://www.interstatebatteries.com
Start Battery Replacement Options
The Sprinter starting battery is generally a Group 49 battery designation. There are other choices which may give better service or better price so I include them here. vic
The higher number in the chart to right of the CCA is CA/MCA.I found it interesting that in the Interstate pdf the warrany was 10 months less for the group 49 battery. It seems as though the three batteries below are are basically goup 49 by the (49) included. The 93 battery may be better for colder climates with its higher 850 CCA. FWIW. vic
49 (93) MT-49 750 940 130 75 14-3/8 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top
93 (49) MTP-93 850 1065 155 85 14-3/8 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top
H8 (49) MTP-H8 720 900 176 85 13-15/16 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top
http://www.interstatebatteries.com
"CA and MCA ratings are at 32 degrees F, while CCA is at zero degree F. Unfortunately, the only positive way to tell with some batteries is to buy one and cut it open - not much of an option."
CCA:
Cold Cranking Amps - The number of amps a battery can deliver for 30 seconds at 00 F and maintain 7.2 volts
RC
Reserve Capacity - The amount of minutes a battery can be discharged to 10.5 volts by 25-amp discharge at 800F. (typo? maybe 80F?)
CA
Cranking Amps - Cranking power for 30 seconds at 32°F are approximations only and should not be confused with CCA.
Be careful that you are comparing like for like on printed ratings.
The original thread is here. Thanks goes to all contributors.
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21530
Added:
I noticed that our local Home Depot stocks Exide Batteries.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Exide-Extreme-L5-49-Auto-Battery-L5-49X/204852602
Home Depot has the battery we need.
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Selection guide.
http://www.showmetheparts.com/n2ebattery/
Manufacturer informationhttp://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/batbrand.htm said:To identify the manufacturer, ask the dealer or check the battery's Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS). The manufacturer's code number on the battery will also identify the manufacturer. For differentiating quality, features or warranty periods, battery manufacturers will sometimes have product lines within a trademark or brand, for example, Bronze, Silver, Gold, Platinum, Titanium, Premium, Heavy Duty, Commercial, Standard, Plus, Turbo, Calcium, Classic, Maintenance Free (MF), etc. They will also contract with other manufacturers to build and private label batteries to complete their product lines, for example, specialty batteries, that are not economically feasible to build themselves. Motorcycle batteries are listed in the Powersports starting classification and motive, traction, standby, stationary, solar, and Valve Regulated Lead-Acid (VRLA) AGM and Gel Cell. Sealed Lead-Acid (SLA) batteries are classified as deep cycle batteries.
http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/batbrand.htm
A possible OEM style battery.
vic...
I went to Advance Auto Parts last night and was very surprised to see what looked like an identical battery under the "Autocraft Gold" brand (size 49H8) for $130 [$175 as of Dec. 2016]. The plastics look like they are from the same mold, though I did not do a side-by-side comparison; I examined where the handles connect to the top, the handle shapes, and the max/min markings on the side which appear identical.
The Autocraft battery is labeled "Made in Mexico". The top is black instead of the original's white color, and someone put the stickers over the fill ports
There is no way to tell if the plates are fabricated the same, but there is no obviously large difference when peering through a fill port.This thread is confusing me as to what people are talking about.
An FYI - the starting battery is at Advance Auto Parts for 100-140 bucks, under the Autocraft brand. I see they are offering a Gold and a Titanium. I had an email exchange with Varta at one point. The Titanium battery is made by Johnson Controls, which is Varta, which is the OEM battery. It's the same battery.
Jumping - there is a lot wierd-ass advice out there. Much of it is basically to avoid creating sparks over the battery. If a battery has been sitting dead in a vehicle, gasses may be present around the battery that could explode. So think about that while hooking up your cables - but not too hard.
[Added/vic: I always blow over the battery top before connecting the cables. The idea is to get any possible cloud of hydrogen away from the connection spark.]
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