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MikeP
12-04-2016, 09:53 PM
Have Glow Plug Issues thinking about Oil Pan Heater.
Did "Search" feature saw magnitic ones will not work on Sprinter Oil pan.
Saw some recommend a Wolverine Oil Pan Heater. Checked on it online and see it's uses ahesive to secure to oil pan?
One member said need Model 38, I went to Wolverine website and can't locate a Model 38.
Anyone know right model or do need Special Order?
Also, I can't install, so can this be done by a neighbor or do need mechanic?
This bring back problem we don't get Glow Plugs replaced, long drive with no accessible loaners and accesible van rentals are big bucks and if problem happens with GP replacement could turn into just accessible rental nightmare.
Anyone have link to one being installed so if neighbor could do have idea what needs done and where power cord needs secured and routed to outside?
"Thank you!"

ktm 300
12-05-2016, 01:04 AM
Hi Mike. I installed a pan stick-on htr from NAPA. Love it. Warm not hot engine pan by running. Simply scour bottom of pan and then clean with brake cleaner spray. Stick on pad and seal edges with provided sealant. easyjob

icarus
12-05-2016, 03:31 AM
Call wolverine. Don't be scared off by the stick on. I have had one on for years.

Icarus

MikeP
12-05-2016, 07:36 AM
"Thanks" to ya'll. Hope that help us make through winter. Last winter only few times with below freezing and hope same this year. Suppose get arictic blast this week. Guess figure out if Sprinter cranks in cold weather in next day or so.
Looked but didn't find any marked for Sprinter. Closest place in store is a Kat's 150 watts at O'Reilly's here in town.It just says Universal.
Will that is enough wattage?
Or if ya'll have idea of what watts we need, I'd appreciate info.
"Thanks"

f5hunter
12-05-2016, 01:45 PM
I installed a 250 Watt Kat's heater on my oil pan in 2013 and it has worked quite well.

I also have a 800 Ma trickle charger on my battery and a 80 watt, 36 inch Kat's battery thermal blanket wrapped around it. I have all 3 plugged into a heavy duty extension cord that goes to a timer in my garage to start warming things up a few hours before I leave on cold mornings. I never have cold start issues with this setup.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000I8XDFS/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Brian.
12-05-2016, 02:39 PM
FWIW, I've bee running a Zerostart coolant circulation heater on my 2001 Jetta TDI for about 13 years now. For the 8 years we lived in the Rockies (N.AZ, WY, CO and trips to my folks place in MT), so long as the car was plugged in for an hour it would start right up and give instant heat, even at -40 temps. I did have the plug rot/rust out on me thus requiring a replacement, but that was a couple bucks and a few minutes of time.

I'm looking at doing the same for the Sprinter. First, because my @#$@@ing booster heater is non-op and I'm against a wall trying to get someone to read codes (seriously, I've called 6 different businesses plus Dr A and have not gotten a positive response yet), second is so I can run it off a timer, and third is so I can run it off shore power when camping and utilize the REST function for cabin heat.

Growing up in Wyoming I've experienced every kind of engine heater (lol, right up to, and including, taking coals from the inside fireplace and setting them under the engine block at my folks off-the-grid cabin), I'll take a coolant circulation heater over the rest everytime.

Aqua Puttana
12-05-2016, 03:36 PM
Even if it doesn't have a thermostat given the watt density of those heaters it is not going to over heat the sump. The aluminum oil pan is great heat sink and the oil is a good heat transfer medium. Overheating of the oil in the ambient temperatures you be will using the heater will never be a problem.

I think the pad heaters are great idea.

Relatively inexpensive.

Easy to install.

No holes or parts to add on the engine as such.

Plug it in when while the engine is still warm to maintain residual heat if it gets really cold.

The only real drawback I see is that you need 120 volts available.

If you do a search from the blue bar above the various engine heating methods have been discussed before. Have fun. vic


This info is not very scientific, but I'll throw it out FWIW.

2004 OM-647 engine. Last year I tested and found 2 each bad glow plugs. I had no start problems until about -5F.

Recently I modified my glow plug module to external fuses and was unhappy to find I am now down to #1 and #4 glow plug working. I ordered a full set of 5 GP, but by the time they arrived the temperatures had dropped. Between wanting to get the engine hot and not wanting to freeze to death while changing them in single digit temps (quiet there shanemac :tongue::hugs:) I'm waiting until this Friday to attempt the GP change.

Yesterday I discovered that with only 2 functioning glow plugs it took three attempts to start with the ambient around 9F. Basically all other things are equal to last year as I'm still using Power Service anti-gel. Apparently the difference between 3 working GP's and only 2 is noticeable.

Drove to the airport last night. Around 10F ambient. Engine temp got up to almost 180F. After properly visiting with my friends the travelers, I parked the van at about 3:00 a.m. and plugged in my oil sump pad heater. Went out to the van about 2:00 p.m. (ambient around 16F and windy). Unplugged the heater, opened the hood and was surprised to find the top of the engine feeling warmish, certainly not stone cold. Started right up.

I have an under-sized sump heater (120 or 140 watts?) from the 250 watt recommended by Wolverine and it still kept my engine warm. Based upon this, some very little unscientific data, I think unless you live up north in Ft. McMurray the 250 watt heater recommended should be fine in the lower 48 states. Why waste the energy if it's not needed? With an uninsulated engine all you're doing is blowing more heat to the atmosphere.

As I said at the beginning of this tome, FWIW. vic

(I did replace all five glow plugs after posting the above.)


My experience...

I use Power Service Diesel Kleen in the white jug beginning in mid December through February. I once carefully measured the addition, but now I glug it in so my addition is less than precise. I think using that in lower temperatures helps... or I wouldn't buy it. :tongue: YMMV.

4 glow plugs should not be a problem even down to -5F (that said, my experience was when using PS with anti-gel).

I installed an engine oil pan pad heater. It needs to plug into 120 volts AC power, but it does a great job of making my 2004 easier to start. It requires no disassembly of any OEM engine parts.

My memory just sucks anymore so I won't try to write anything new. Some of my glow plug related history is here.


http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=117395#post117395

Another thread in case anyone might be interested.

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=112522#post112522


Good luck. vic



...
Anyone have link to one being installed so if neighbor could do have idea what needs done and where power cord needs secured and routed to outside?
"Thank you!"
I just routed the power cord out and put it through the Dodge grill slots. ("Through the slots" probably won't work on a Freightliner grill.) It just needs to out somewhere to be accessible.

I use Vaseline on my 120 volt plug prongs and then installed a 3 prong to 2 prong cheater. My thought for that method is that the original plug stays protected and basically unused. If the cheater prongs go bad I'll just replace that.

Coolant circulation heaters are very effective. There have been some issues with disassembly prior to installing the OEM style heaters.


Damn block heater installation
http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8875

An NCV3 In line heater (universal mount)
Inline heater...block heater 320-0003
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7840

As always, the original post/thread can be accessed by clicking the blue arrow icon within any quote box.

vic

P.S. - For NCV3 models. If an oil pan pad heater is used it has been reported that the monitors may notice a difference of temperatures within the engine and set a DTC to illuminate the MIL aka CEL. It is an inconvenience, not a real issue. in my experience T1N's have no problems.

MikeP
12-06-2016, 12:00 AM
"Thank you!" It was in mid 40'sF here today. Went out and she cranked right up with no problems.
Picked up Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement +Cetane Boost winterizer/antigel and calualted with great guessing precision the correct amount for 3/4 tank of fuel that was in tank.Then drove around for awhile to help mix it up and build battery up, she been sitting for about a week. It suppose get down to mid teens later this week with small change of snow. Doubt we wil be getting out anyway til warms up a bit.
The Adhesive oil pan heater they having to order, guess alot folks buying them cause earlier website show they had in stock.
Suppose be back up in 50's next week and see about getting heater put on.
Again, "Thank you!" all for information/advice and taking time to assist and ease my worries over this.
"Thanks!"

ktm 300
12-06-2016, 01:16 AM
FWIW, I've bee running a Zerostart coolant circulation heater on my 2001 Jetta TDI for about 13 years now. For the 8 years we lived in the Rockies (N.AZ, WY, CO and trips to my folks place in MT), so long as the car was plugged in for an hour it would start right up and give instant heat, even at -40 temps. I did have the plug rot/rust out on me thus requiring a replacement, but that was a couple bucks and a few minutes of time.

I'm looking at doing the same for the Sprinter. First, because my @#$@@ing booster heater is non-op and I'm against a wall trying to get someone to read codes (seriously, I've called 6 different businesses plus Dr A and have not gotten a positive response yet), second is so I can run it off a timer, and third is so I can run it off shore power when camping and utilize the REST function for cabin heat.

Growing up in Wyoming I've experienced every kind of engine heater (lol, right up to, and including, taking coals from the inside fireplace and setting them under the engine block at my folks off-the-grid cabin), I'll take a coolant circulation heater over the rest everytime.Does theZero start unit provide enough wattage/heat to get good warmth from the rest function???????????? How do you keep the REST from off cycling every 15 min or so?

Brian.
12-06-2016, 01:40 AM
Does theZero start unit provide enough wattage/heat to get good warmth from the rest function???????????? How do you keep the REST from off cycling every 15 min or so?

I have it on my Jetta.... just Thinking/Planning on doing it to the Sprinter so I have no firm answers.

But, depending on the heater you buy, some have a 190* shutoff point so the coolant will be just as hot as if you were running the engine. Others are lower (110~120*), so it's worth paying attention to that. No clue on the REST timeout/function (though I thought it was 30-min?)

ktm 300
12-06-2016, 04:26 AM
I purchased an inline heater for my lower hose. It provided enough heat to the engine so that it would blow somewhat warmish air at start-up on cold mornings. It burned out and I havent replaced it, but should.The pan heater makes the oil pan nice and toasty. I would speculate based on the feel of the pan that the oil temp was in the 100f range.My REST function only ran for 15 or 20 minutes and it was blowing pretty cool air by the end of that period.

Aqua Puttana
12-06-2016, 02:07 PM
I'm quite certain that the design time down on REST is 30 minutes. My 2004 Espar runs for 30 minutes using my DPDT switch mod.

vic