2005 tin alternator

I have to change my alternator. I understand I can replace the OEM 90 AMP (?) with 150 amp as a direct replacement? I tried the blue search bar and came up with nothing. Does anyone have a part number and possibly a link to posts on this subject? thanks 2005 2.7 2500 Sprinter

Some info is here.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18432

vic

According to my parts list, the 150 amp alternator *was* (MB) A0121544602 ...
which has been replaced by A0131541302
...and the Dodge number for that is 05134205AA

--dick
p.s. the new MB number also shows up in the photo on this posting in the thread Vic referenced.

thanks guys. I ordered a 150 amp unit from my friends at Euro parts. I ordered a Bosch. There were el cheapos on flea bay but I only want to do this repair one time.

Attaboy. I did this exact swap a few months ago. Effortless.

Got er done. Great service from Euro Parts SD. Not the most enjoyable job but it could have been worse. It helped having the proper tools. Thanks to all for the tips.

Today I took the old alternator apart. I found a bad diode. I do not know if that took out the regulator or not.

I have a 2004 Sprinter 3500 with 245K miles, alternator is original, just started having "battery" light on and off. Time for a new alternator, right?
How involved is the replacement procedure?
Any special tools needed?

Val

For tools you will need external torx set,17mm socket and 1/2 breaker bar for belt, a few metric wrenches/sockets. Nothing really outrageous, Harbor freight tools will work fine. External torx set in 3/8 drive and 1/4 in drive.

My new alternator is coming on Wednesday, van died today after I started to warm it up.
I jump started it, it ran for a bit and died again.
Everything happened so fast, battery light initially came on just two days ago and I ordered an alternator right away.
Shall I not attempt to drive it until alternator is replaced?

Val

got a 'portable' battery charger?
just recharge the battery.
dont drive at night, no daytime running lights etc and you should be ok for a couple days.

If you *must* drive, then really really try to *fully* recharge the battery first.

That means a 10-amp charger for 14 hours, or a 20-amp for 7 hours

If you keep running the battery flat, you'll need to replace it, too (thus adding another $110 or so to the exercise).

Electricity is needed to operate the Sprinter, and as you've seen, it'll just die when it runs out.

If you can clip on the charger during your stops during the day, that'll help.
Each "start" is probably eating an hour of available "run time" from the (fully charged) battery.

Watching voltages when running is one of those things a ScanGauge or UltraGauge will do for you.
--dick

autostaretx said:

If you *must* drive, then really really try to *fully* recharge the battery first.

...
--dick

Click to expand...

It is best to just let it sit. There are some modules in the Sprinter which have been reported to be sensitive to low(er) voltages. The fact is that as the system voltage decays the regulated power supplies may not be able to ... well, regulate.

Sprinter modules are expensive.

vic

Just went through this. Low voltage causes surging, flickering lights, multiple module errors and the bonus of not knowing where it will simply die and leave you stranded.

New Bosch alternator arrived in the afternoon and I changed the alternator today, did the turbo return oil grommet too, since it would be much easier when alternator is not there, I meant to do it for some time...
When I started at 3pm after work it was 17F, when I finished with it all at almost 11pm, it was -2F.
I don't have a luxury of a garage, had to work outside.
I did have to clear a bunch of codes caused by undervoltage, different sensor codes and immobilizer.

I don't have a charger, so I connected my other vehicle to Sprinter battery after I was done with alternator and let it charge for 15min or so before starting Sprinter. Then went for 30 min drive. All is well so far