nutterbutter
2004 LTV Free Spirit T1N
Having rear axle and brake issues, and need some diagnostic assistance.
Went on a trip to Yellowstone (~4k miles) and everything operated fine. Pre-trip I rotated the tires, and noticed some wetness on the driver side rear axle. Some of the dirt in the area was damp looking, but not enough to fall off or drip. Did some research and found that some weeping can be normal.
At about 80 miles from home on the return trip, heard a bang from under the van behind me. Then some flopping noises, almost like I drove over a set of ratchet straps or pair of pants with a belt, and it got stuck underneath. I hit the brakes gently, and felt the ABS pulsing in the pedal. Noises stopped as I pulled over. I looked under the van, and noticed the driver side axle weep was dripping, but otherwise everything was fine. Put a hand on each wheel, and all seemed same temperature.
Got going again, and noticed ABS, ESP, and ASR/Brake Assist lights (the skidding tire icon) were all light. Drove at 60 mph for a few minutes, everything felt fine. Then a softer bang, and flopping noises again from around the passenger side rear wheel. I think I felt the antilock brake pedal feel again. Get off highway and inspect. All wheels seem about same temperature. Use a q-tip as a rear differential dipstick, and level is maybe 0.5” below the fill hole--good. Nothing under the van. Brake fluid levels fine, and no brake leaks. I do notice a little bit of dampness around where the driveshaft enters the differential, but I don’t think it is related.
Hooked up the little terminal I got with the GDE tune to check codes. No codes! Very odd, although maybe I did something wrong. I have seen glow plug codes and cleared with the GDE device in the past though.
Get going again and drive a couple minutes. More intermittent flopping noises, and then a sound like a bad wheel bearing or bent rotor. Whirring sound in the passenger rear wheel that changes with speed. No more flopping sounds. The whirring sound is consistent and I pull off the highway to a Les Schwab tire place. I drive slowly back and forth for a young guy, and trying to reverse the van feels like driving up a small curb. Something is locked up. Guy removes the wheel and notices a lot of heat. Passenger side rear pads are very worn, and he says the noise is just an indicator of worn pads.
Put wheel back on. I spray some water on the wheel to cool. Watch it steam but not sizzle. Driving around parking lot I feel a lot of resistance. Try forward, back. Turn off and on, and then it is fine again. I drive all the way home trying not to use brakes and have zero noise or problems. Feels perfect.
Get home and stop before going into driveway. After stopping, wheel is very tight again and hard to move.
My original diagnosis: Driver side drip caused some type of sensor error, and the ASR/BAS repeatedly tried to actuate passenger side brake to compensate. The Triangle light never came on, so I think that isn’t it.
My second diagnosis: stuck caliper, but that doesn’t explain why the noise just started without hitting brakes.
Questions:
1. What do you think the problem is? Is it related to the weeping driver side wheel?
2. Next step diagnosis?
I don’t think they are Mercedes brake pads based upon the service records I received when I purchased van. There was a rear wheel overheat issue that was diagnosed as a sticking emergency brake, and pads/sensor was replaced about 4 years ago by previous owner. I don’t use the e-brake, and it is NOT sticking.
At minimum, I am planning on new driver side rear seal+bearing+pads, but that doesn’t fix the hot problem side.
Help!
Went on a trip to Yellowstone (~4k miles) and everything operated fine. Pre-trip I rotated the tires, and noticed some wetness on the driver side rear axle. Some of the dirt in the area was damp looking, but not enough to fall off or drip. Did some research and found that some weeping can be normal.
At about 80 miles from home on the return trip, heard a bang from under the van behind me. Then some flopping noises, almost like I drove over a set of ratchet straps or pair of pants with a belt, and it got stuck underneath. I hit the brakes gently, and felt the ABS pulsing in the pedal. Noises stopped as I pulled over. I looked under the van, and noticed the driver side axle weep was dripping, but otherwise everything was fine. Put a hand on each wheel, and all seemed same temperature.
Got going again, and noticed ABS, ESP, and ASR/Brake Assist lights (the skidding tire icon) were all light. Drove at 60 mph for a few minutes, everything felt fine. Then a softer bang, and flopping noises again from around the passenger side rear wheel. I think I felt the antilock brake pedal feel again. Get off highway and inspect. All wheels seem about same temperature. Use a q-tip as a rear differential dipstick, and level is maybe 0.5” below the fill hole--good. Nothing under the van. Brake fluid levels fine, and no brake leaks. I do notice a little bit of dampness around where the driveshaft enters the differential, but I don’t think it is related.
Hooked up the little terminal I got with the GDE tune to check codes. No codes! Very odd, although maybe I did something wrong. I have seen glow plug codes and cleared with the GDE device in the past though.
Get going again and drive a couple minutes. More intermittent flopping noises, and then a sound like a bad wheel bearing or bent rotor. Whirring sound in the passenger rear wheel that changes with speed. No more flopping sounds. The whirring sound is consistent and I pull off the highway to a Les Schwab tire place. I drive slowly back and forth for a young guy, and trying to reverse the van feels like driving up a small curb. Something is locked up. Guy removes the wheel and notices a lot of heat. Passenger side rear pads are very worn, and he says the noise is just an indicator of worn pads.
Put wheel back on. I spray some water on the wheel to cool. Watch it steam but not sizzle. Driving around parking lot I feel a lot of resistance. Try forward, back. Turn off and on, and then it is fine again. I drive all the way home trying not to use brakes and have zero noise or problems. Feels perfect.
Get home and stop before going into driveway. After stopping, wheel is very tight again and hard to move.
My original diagnosis: Driver side drip caused some type of sensor error, and the ASR/BAS repeatedly tried to actuate passenger side brake to compensate. The Triangle light never came on, so I think that isn’t it.
My second diagnosis: stuck caliper, but that doesn’t explain why the noise just started without hitting brakes.
Questions:
1. What do you think the problem is? Is it related to the weeping driver side wheel?
2. Next step diagnosis?
I don’t think they are Mercedes brake pads based upon the service records I received when I purchased van. There was a rear wheel overheat issue that was diagnosed as a sticking emergency brake, and pads/sensor was replaced about 4 years ago by previous owner. I don’t use the e-brake, and it is NOT sticking.
At minimum, I am planning on new driver side rear seal+bearing+pads, but that doesn’t fix the hot problem side.
Help!