ABS, ESP ASR/BAS lights on, rear wheel drag and hot

Having rear axle and brake issues, and need some diagnostic assistance.

Went on a trip to Yellowstone (~4k miles) and everything operated fine. Pre-trip I rotated the tires, and noticed some wetness on the driver side rear axle. Some of the dirt in the area was damp looking, but not enough to fall off or drip. Did some research and found that some weeping can be normal.

At about 80 miles from home on the return trip, heard a bang from under the van behind me. Then some flopping noises, almost like I drove over a set of ratchet straps or pair of pants with a belt, and it got stuck underneath. I hit the brakes gently, and felt the ABS pulsing in the pedal. Noises stopped as I pulled over. I looked under the van, and noticed the driver side axle weep was dripping, but otherwise everything was fine. Put a hand on each wheel, and all seemed same temperature.

Got going again, and noticed ABS, ESP, and ASR/Brake Assist lights (the skidding tire icon) were all light. Drove at 60 mph for a few minutes, everything felt fine. Then a softer bang, and flopping noises again from around the passenger side rear wheel. I think I felt the antilock brake pedal feel again. Get off highway and inspect. All wheels seem about same temperature. Use a q-tip as a rear differential dipstick, and level is maybe 0.5” below the fill hole--good. Nothing under the van. Brake fluid levels fine, and no brake leaks. I do notice a little bit of dampness around where the driveshaft enters the differential, but I don’t think it is related.

Hooked up the little terminal I got with the GDE tune to check codes. No codes! Very odd, although maybe I did something wrong. I have seen glow plug codes and cleared with the GDE device in the past though.

Get going again and drive a couple minutes. More intermittent flopping noises, and then a sound like a bad wheel bearing or bent rotor. Whirring sound in the passenger rear wheel that changes with speed. No more flopping sounds. The whirring sound is consistent and I pull off the highway to a Les Schwab tire place. I drive slowly back and forth for a young guy, and trying to reverse the van feels like driving up a small curb. Something is locked up. Guy removes the wheel and notices a lot of heat. Passenger side rear pads are very worn, and he says the noise is just an indicator of worn pads.

Put wheel back on. I spray some water on the wheel to cool. Watch it steam but not sizzle. Driving around parking lot I feel a lot of resistance. Try forward, back. Turn off and on, and then it is fine again. I drive all the way home trying not to use brakes and have zero noise or problems. Feels perfect.

Get home and stop before going into driveway. After stopping, wheel is very tight again and hard to move.

My original diagnosis: Driver side drip caused some type of sensor error, and the ASR/BAS repeatedly tried to actuate passenger side brake to compensate. The Triangle light never came on, so I think that isn’t it.

My second diagnosis: stuck caliper, but that doesn’t explain why the noise just started without hitting brakes.


Questions:
1. What do you think the problem is? Is it related to the weeping driver side wheel?
2. Next step diagnosis?

I don’t think they are Mercedes brake pads based upon the service records I received when I purchased van. There was a rear wheel overheat issue that was diagnosed as a sticking emergency brake, and pads/sensor was replaced about 4 years ago by previous owner. I don’t use the e-brake, and it is NOT sticking.

At minimum, I am planning on new driver side rear seal+bearing+pads, but that doesn’t fix the hot problem side.

Help!

How can you be so sure that the parking brake isn't causing an issue? If the shoe delaminated it could be the source of heat and also explain why it might jam in one direction but not another - depending on how it may have gotten wedged in there.

You could have them pop the pots out of the caliper on the pass. side and see if it needs to be replaced / rebuilt.

I *was* sure the parking brake wasn't the issue, but it turns it mad max you were right.

Years ago, the previous owner had a parking brake melt down, and local non-sprinter mechanic replaced the parts with non-mercedes. Since I got it, the parking brake never worked, and I diagnosed my passenger rear jingle rattle to be the parking brake. Maybe the 10 millionth bounce on the highway was too much, and the whole thing got wedged in there and exploded.

Took the rotor off today (not stuck! came right off!), and all the parking brake stuff fell out in a pile. All the stuff in the picture fell out after I removed the rotor.

Sensor wires all look intact. Will the ABS/ESP/Traction lights reset on their own, or do I have to reset them?

I'm considering if it is worth it to fix the parking brake... I chock the wheel if it is on a hill. I could even setup the parking brake to use just the driver side. The whole system seems more of a liability now...

Oy, well atleast you know it's not something internal to the axle. I would think that the lights would reset themselves after whatever conditions are met (mileage, days, # of starts, etc?). That's assuming the sensors are still working correctly.

If it were me I would replace both seals and both parking brakes. Not worth messing around with that stuff especially when you consider that the parking brake is also a last resort option in the case of a service brake failure.

Finished (hopefully) dealing with my current issue:

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50756

Followed so much of the great advice on this thread.

Would like to add:

1. Removed inner bearing by using a pair of prybars on the inner most bearing. Putting strong, even pressure allowed me to slide it off a little at a time.

2. Removed outer bearing with a drift and hammer, one side at a time. Moved a microscopic amount at first....

3. To install bearing, I cut the inner bearing race in half with a angle grinder. A little bit of emery cloth to clean up the inside cut edge, and voila, you have a bearing press adapter. See picture.

4. I had an old chain link fence post. Cut the end off even with a pipe cutter. Was the perfect side to use a slide hammer with the home made bearing press adapter. If you buy one, it's cheaper than a pipe.

5. I purchased the special wheel bearing nut tool 460 589 01 07 00. Oddly, it comes with a 1/2" square drive. With that much torque, I'd expect a 3/4" drive. I own both a 1/2 USA craftsman breaker bar, and a 3/4" China Craftsman breaker bar. Used the giant fence post as an extension to both get the nut off and on. At near maximum torque, I stopped and put my safety glasses on. The 1/2 breaker bar had a good amount of flex in the head, and I was scared it might explode. I tried the 3/4", but the cheap harbor freight adapter I had did get a little bit of permanent bend to it.

I kept pushing with the 1/2 and it did work to get it both on and off.

6. If I had to do it all over again, I would have purchased new both the locking washer you bend up into the tabs, and the dust shield. For the locking washer, bending the tabs down to unscrew, and bending them back up again in a similar location caused a piece to chip off. The dust shield was bent up on one side, and I had to adjust with a hammer to not rub the rotor. On the other, it looks like the side had been off before, and there was some type of RTV/silicone on it that had to be removed. Was a pain to sand it all off.

7. There are several different tone rings. Get the right one!

8. Use grease to install the tone ring.

There was a rough feeling after installing both spindles. Could feel it by hand. I attributed it to maybe a piece of dirt that got inside during outdoor install, or maybe the fact the spindles were all dry. I hope I didn't damage the bearings somehow during install.

I topped off the diff fluid, installed the wheels and went for a test drive. Everything felt smooth and fine. So I think maybe the oil just had to get in.

MY 2002 SPRINTER HAVE THE ABS AND TRACTION LIGHT ON.

Van drives perfectly,no issues at all,just the lights ON all the time.

Checked sensors ,reading OHMS 1.63 and 1.65
No loose wires,etc.
Checked fuses OK
Brake Lights ,OK
Third Light OK
Brake Light switch, seems OK, it works
Brakes are OK
Tires are OK (size match)
Tire Pressure,OK

GUYS ANY IDEA ???? PLEASE,I'M GETTING CRAZY WITH THE LIGTHS LOOK AT ME ALL THE TIME

Peluka said:

...

GUYS ANY IDEA ???? PLEASE,I'M GETTING CRAZY WITH THE LIGTHS LOOK AT ME ALL THE TIME

Click to expand...

Get it scanned for codes with a Sprinter specific scan tool. That may reveal a direction.

vic

nutterbutter said:

Finished (hopefully) dealing with my current issue:

...
There was a rough feeling after installing both spindles. Could feel it by hand. I attributed it to maybe a piece of dirt that got inside during outdoor install, or maybe the fact the spindles were all dry. I hope I didn't damage the bearings somehow during install.

I topped off the diff fluid, installed the wheels and went for a test drive. Everything felt smooth and fine. So I think maybe the oil just had to get in.

Click to expand...

No consequences of the "rough feeling"?

I added your tips to my more complex method thread. Thanks.

2004 T1N Rear Axle Bearing and Seal DIY Change
http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28817

vic

Here's the update:

1. After over 100 miles of driving, the slightly rough feeling in spots in still there. I jacked up the van, and spun the rear wheels. It's more on the driver's side. I think I might have damaged a bearing during install, because a piece of dirt or something would have worked its way out by now. I did feel a similar rough spot a few times after driving the race down. Hard to imagine driving the race down while slowly turning the bearing would have damaged it, but it is possible.

I may have installed the lock nut on too tightly. I put a similar amount of force as it took to remove the nut, but without a torque wrench, it's hard to know. The final resting place of the notch out washer was about 1/2 notch PAST the original, so I got the nut on a little further. That could also be due to differences in bearing race thickness...

2. Temperatures left and right rear are both low after pulling off the highway. I can't hear any noise while driving or coasting. There is no leaking. So I guess I'm going to just leave it.

3. Wish there was a reasonable torque wrench to purchase for this job...

4. There's enough grease on the bearings that it will take some time before the diff fluid makes its way to flow in there.

5. If I ever have to take the spindles out again, I will get new dust shield and notchy washer, but I'm sure gonna regret using the RTV...