coolestmanalive
New member
I have a 2006, and the 2006 SM has TWO DIFFERENT references for this number.
the number is the "A" gap between the torque converter and the pump housing.
on page 21-60 of the "Transmission" section, it says the following regarding the Installation of the torque converter:
"INSTALLATION
(1) Coat outside of the torque converter hub with
long-term grease, install the torque converter into
the transmission.
(2) Measure distance “A” (Fig. 64) from torque converter
to transmission housing. If the torque converter
is properly installed, distance “A” will be 55
mm (2.17 in.)."
NOTE: the diagram depicts a positive distance "A" (eg that the flexplate-torque converter mating surface sticks out BEYOND/PAST the surface of the pump/bell housing.
Later, at the very very end of the "transmission" section of this same service manual.... after the full discussion of the disassembly of the transmission internals, and the entire description of the electrohydraulic operation of the transmission, as well as the fully illustrated description of the operation of the torque converter itself....
Page 21-184
(4) Insert torque converter hub into oil pump.
(5) While pushing torque converter inward, rotate
converter until converter is fully seated in the oil
pump gears.
(6) Check converter seating with a scale and
straightedge (Fig. 251). Surface of converter lugs
should be at least 19 mm (3/4 in.) to rear of straightedge
when converter is fully seated.
Note that this description, AND diagram 251, refer to a "negative" distance (recessed, inside the surface of the pump/bell housing)
There is also a video currently on youtube that comes up prominently for searches of "722.6 torque converter installation" that refers to 3/4"
Can someone definitively tell me how far the torque converter should stick out past or inside the pump housing?
Why I ask this question
1) the new rebuilt torque converter that I just got from a very reputable and knowledgable transmission rebuilder sticks out about 0.5-.75". OUT. not *in*.
2) the flex plate SEEMINGLY sits *inside* the rear housing of the engine, however the amount by which this other gap (some other sources refer to this gap as "B") seems to be a smaller value than the A gap....
I have already tried installation and I have failed thus far.
However, this is a shockingly difficult installation process.... even moreso when you realize that even with access to a fully equipped automotive shop, the process of installation would STILL be difficult (albeit easier than rolling around on the ground with a Harbor Freight tranny jack).
After several attempts I have to get back to work for the week and I need to know if I am wasting my time waiting until next weekend..... or if I somehow got the WRONG TORQUE CONVERTER?
I guess a follow up question:
does the 722.6 have various torque converter sizes? or is it a question of the pump housing being different from application to application?
This is really important as getting this bastard back into the vehicle is the last step in months of downtime. It has taught me an important lesson:
If you have a transmission failure just pay $2500 or whatever and buy a rebuild transmission.
its not worth going through the hassle, especially with Mercedes parts, of trying to source everything yourself..... especially with hard parts failures.
the number is the "A" gap between the torque converter and the pump housing.
on page 21-60 of the "Transmission" section, it says the following regarding the Installation of the torque converter:
"INSTALLATION
(1) Coat outside of the torque converter hub with
long-term grease, install the torque converter into
the transmission.
(2) Measure distance “A” (Fig. 64) from torque converter
to transmission housing. If the torque converter
is properly installed, distance “A” will be 55
mm (2.17 in.)."
NOTE: the diagram depicts a positive distance "A" (eg that the flexplate-torque converter mating surface sticks out BEYOND/PAST the surface of the pump/bell housing.
Later, at the very very end of the "transmission" section of this same service manual.... after the full discussion of the disassembly of the transmission internals, and the entire description of the electrohydraulic operation of the transmission, as well as the fully illustrated description of the operation of the torque converter itself....
Page 21-184
(4) Insert torque converter hub into oil pump.
(5) While pushing torque converter inward, rotate
converter until converter is fully seated in the oil
pump gears.
(6) Check converter seating with a scale and
straightedge (Fig. 251). Surface of converter lugs
should be at least 19 mm (3/4 in.) to rear of straightedge
when converter is fully seated.
Note that this description, AND diagram 251, refer to a "negative" distance (recessed, inside the surface of the pump/bell housing)
There is also a video currently on youtube that comes up prominently for searches of "722.6 torque converter installation" that refers to 3/4"
Can someone definitively tell me how far the torque converter should stick out past or inside the pump housing?
Why I ask this question
1) the new rebuilt torque converter that I just got from a very reputable and knowledgable transmission rebuilder sticks out about 0.5-.75". OUT. not *in*.
2) the flex plate SEEMINGLY sits *inside* the rear housing of the engine, however the amount by which this other gap (some other sources refer to this gap as "B") seems to be a smaller value than the A gap....
I have already tried installation and I have failed thus far.
However, this is a shockingly difficult installation process.... even moreso when you realize that even with access to a fully equipped automotive shop, the process of installation would STILL be difficult (albeit easier than rolling around on the ground with a Harbor Freight tranny jack).
After several attempts I have to get back to work for the week and I need to know if I am wasting my time waiting until next weekend..... or if I somehow got the WRONG TORQUE CONVERTER?
I guess a follow up question:
does the 722.6 have various torque converter sizes? or is it a question of the pump housing being different from application to application?
This is really important as getting this bastard back into the vehicle is the last step in months of downtime. It has taught me an important lesson:
If you have a transmission failure just pay $2500 or whatever and buy a rebuild transmission.
its not worth going through the hassle, especially with Mercedes parts, of trying to source everything yourself..... especially with hard parts failures.