View Full Version : Not start when hot 2002 sprinter

08-05-2016, 01:24 AM
My 2002 is having hard to start problems and it's going worst lately.
I did recently some work to see if I could fix it:
High pressure solenoid Oring (found some clear sludge insight it)
Run injector leak test and the 3/8 clear probe hoses fill up like 1/4 inch.
New MAF sensor
GDE tune up.Thank Keith.
Glow plugs and module.
Changed all the clear fuel lines. Europarts kit.
Fuel filter without water sensor. ( no more bubbles on hoses so far)
Grease on turbo actuator.
Crankshaft position sensor year and half ago.

The only way to start when hot is to make the glow plugs warm from 10 to 20 times, and start time is very long.
In the morning it starts right away.
I have MBII car soft and torque app. So far unable to read rail pressure.
My mechanic did check it with snap on reader and told me is good.
Thank you for your help.
Next is a solenoid test....

08-05-2016, 03:52 AM
Next step might be a compression test--You must have 360 psi minimum.

Its not enough under that compression figure alone to light a fire without the glows active.
I bet you get a cloud of white when it eventually runs.

08-05-2016, 04:12 AM
No no smoke, and it start right up in the morning at first cycle .?
Also it feels strong,
If oil gets thinner when it gets hot and affect compression I should be able to pour thicker oil and the problem be fixed momentarily, my father told me to put and oil additive and see what happens as a cheap compression test.
Running mobil1 0-40

Missouri Blue
08-05-2016, 04:33 AM
What about the camshaft position sensor? When that goes bad will it cause a no start when hot situation?

Two days ago my sprinter would not start when hot, turn over and immediately shut down. Using the carsoft II I pulled "p1354" and thanks to the forum search decided to try the camshaft... replaced it with another sensor I had on hand and it is starting when hot.

08-05-2016, 12:10 PM
Forgot to mention I think my mechanic changed the crankshaft position sensor year and half ago (let me add it to the list) , I have car soft MBII no codes so far since I installed GDE tune, will run de van to work today and see if it develop any codes.
Should I change camshaft position sensor also if no codes show up?
I'm starting to think I need to plug a das before I keep changing thing.

08-05-2016, 01:53 PM
Remember if the sensors show no codes then you have to do wave form analysis of the components involved.
In this case Cam and Crank sensor and synchronization.

If it all check outs then its time to base line the engine.
In short a health check!
There are two methods , the lazy clean hands way using a scanner, but it doesn't come close to doing an actual & physical old fashioned compression test.

Its then time to do what no-one likes to do in this post de-industrialized western world in this 21st century--get your hands dirty!

The engine target pressure on cranking is 400 psi, but it will still start easily with reductions to 360 psi.
Once lower than that its on the downhill skids to non staring without aids --like glow plugs!
In short it will have difficulty in lighting a fire!

Putting thicker oil in it is granddad's Oldsmobile repair era stuff!
With the much higher compression in a diesel putting thicker oil in it will hardly make a difference.

Target compression Turbo diesel 400 psi--Non turbo (normally aspirated) is 450
Gasoline (petrol,engine) low compression 125 psi higher compression 175 psi tops.
Hope that helps

08-05-2016, 04:47 PM
It pulled codes:
Common raíl:


CR common raíl :


08-05-2016, 07:06 PM
I did change the glow plugs myself i Can check comprensión too. Someone has a comprensión. Test tool i Can borrough
My diesel mechanic , that works in the school buses told me that the engine sounds good to take it to the dealer,
That would hurt my feelings 😠

08-06-2016, 04:37 PM
So I went to see Joel here in Philadelphia connected the dad and it showed 2900 psi rail pressure at crank
Next solenoid leak test if fine high pressure pump rebuild , right?

08-06-2016, 04:50 PM
I thought 2900psi was high enough to allow start?

My HP pump showed signs of failure by leaking fuel onto the serpentine belt when cold. I don't know if they fail internally causing low pressure; but you have 2900psi, so it's not causing low pressure. It sounds like fuel isn't a problem, maybe the wiring to the injectors has been frayed? Try checking the wiring harness, and particularly the wiring to each injector.

08-06-2016, 07:23 PM
We got the info from here http://oregonfuelinjection.com/index.php?page=sec/sprinter-diesel-diagnostic-info.htm

And thank you I never thought of that.
Anyone else know about minimum pressure to start.
The thing it's sometimes starts if I leave it siting for more then then minutes it won't start

08-07-2016, 01:15 AM
The target injection pressure at cranking is 351 to 359 bar.

08-07-2016, 04:37 AM
The target injection pressure at cranking is 351 to 359 bar.

2900psi is 200 bar, so maybe it isn't high enough. It sure acts like my old "no start when hot" issue that turned out to be an injector leaking fuel back to the return line.

Aqua Puttana
08-07-2016, 01:08 PM
I thought 2900psi was high enough to allow start?

The published material which I've seen indicates that 2900 psi during cranking is the minimum required for reliable starting. Higher pressures than that are typical.


08-07-2016, 03:01 PM
That would say why its just in the treshold and starts when cold and whith glow pkyg help when hot, injector leak test was good,

08-07-2016, 03:24 PM
Again this emphasizes the need to base line the engine.

I have come across several T1N vans with this symptom a couple were fuel related and the rest were lack of compression causes.

When cold you have max fuel output and glow plug operation to get a fire going.
When hot you rely solely on compression only unless you force glow plug operation!
Of course extend cranking will usually get the beast to fire when hot simply because you will pump enough fuel into the pots to saturation.

The other is fuel delivery pressures and we go back to the eternal triangle of fire! i.e Heat Fuel and Air.
As I mentioned you need about 350 bar to get as a target figure!
Yes the thing will start to murmur and maybe catch when you have only say 250 bar 2600 psi as mentioned in your attachment. For constant reliable starting (which these engines are famous for) you need to have some essential elements working to spec.

With today's electronically controlled engines it is easy to forget/overlook the essentials immediately pointing to a faulty sensor and such when the real issue is purely mechanical! As it was in the old days with a traditional injector pump and pipes.

08-07-2016, 06:15 PM
I understand that, so you are saying a healthy engine would start with 2900 psi?
That was my injector lack test

09-26-2016, 11:29 PM
Compression test done it went pass 400 psi I made a video http://youtu.be/Qf7ZQgUN4Zc

09-28-2016, 07:41 PM
To update connected the van to a Das and the crank pressure was 2900 psi The van Used to start in cold but not hot now it does not starts in cold either, now i atart it with a little spry of mineral spirits , like it would be just on the treshold to not start.