thebitmaster
Active member
So I'm dealing with a recurrent Low Turbo Boost in a different thread and am now looking at sensors after first concentrating on pressure integrity. That thread is here:
https://sprinter-source.com/experi/index.php?threads/47844/
I'm posting this here because it's a more general question and might help others.
1) How do I clean my MAF sensor? It's a Bosch, but it *doesn't* have Torx security screws on the bottom to allow removal of the naughty bits for cleaning. It looks like one welded piece, or maybe snapped together. The Interwebz has no answers.
I'm assuming the wires and/or plates are inside that box in the middle? I have my MAF cleaner, and am getting it in there the best I can, but is that the best I can do with this MAF? Is this even the right MAF for the vehicle? Isn't is supposed to have those screws?
2) I've read elsewhere on the forums that if the T1N MAF was disconnected, the ECM would provide "plausible values" in its place, and that this could be used to diagnose MAF problems. Does that also work with my 2007 NCV3? For instance, if the low turbo boost code I'm getting is being caused by the real MAF reading being out of whack, would disconnecting it make the problem go away (temporarily for testing only) if it were the only bad sensor in the bunch?
Thanks!
https://sprinter-source.com/experi/index.php?threads/47844/
I'm posting this here because it's a more general question and might help others.
1) How do I clean my MAF sensor? It's a Bosch, but it *doesn't* have Torx security screws on the bottom to allow removal of the naughty bits for cleaning. It looks like one welded piece, or maybe snapped together. The Interwebz has no answers.
I'm assuming the wires and/or plates are inside that box in the middle? I have my MAF cleaner, and am getting it in there the best I can, but is that the best I can do with this MAF? Is this even the right MAF for the vehicle? Isn't is supposed to have those screws?
2) I've read elsewhere on the forums that if the T1N MAF was disconnected, the ECM would provide "plausible values" in its place, and that this could be used to diagnose MAF problems. Does that also work with my 2007 NCV3? For instance, if the low turbo boost code I'm getting is being caused by the real MAF reading being out of whack, would disconnecting it make the problem go away (temporarily for testing only) if it were the only bad sensor in the bunch?
Thanks!