airtronicD2 high-alt kit install-question

howzit all...

have read thru as much as could find, but cant think of what to do but put up a new thread...

anyone out here performed an install of the airtronicD2 high-altitude kit (pt# 22 1000 33 23 00 )

my d2 was mfg'd wk37of 2015, so assume its the latest model and 'ready' for this add-on.

unfortunately the instructions that come with it couldnt possibly be more vague.
a simple diagram that illustrates exactly how it connects to the heater (showing all components) would be nice,
but no dice.

found these:
http://www.esparofmichigan.com/manu.../High Altitude Compensator Manual 10-2011.pdf

which indicate, or seem to anyway - that the heater 'diagnostic port' plugs straight into the high-alt box, but of course it doesnt ?

one would think that for what they charge for these things that IT WOULD:
simply plug right in to some connector on the heater, without having to decipher what goes where -
but no dice.

(and i wont even get into wondren why its necessary to purchase an add'l $200 gizmo to allow the thing to run/burn right above el4600, but hey...)

i gotta believe that its simpler than the instructions make it appear - and hey, i've been doing this sort of stuff on boats for 25+ years - but 1st time on one of these - so am stuck - at simply trying to discern how it all connects together

there's the box itself, plus an wiring adapter/connector assy

anyone?

I can't help with your installation but I can say that the diesel air heaters were originally designed for boats so that's likely why they dont have altitude compensation although I know for as many that they sell for commercial trucking it would seem that they should.

I've attached the PDF of what you actually need to do, rather than what the stupid manual says to do. I got this sent to me by Espar USA.

The problem is caused by Espar having a couple of different controllers for the D2. The one that comes with it most of the time (the Digimax) has a completely different connector setup than the one the alt. kit is designed to work with. You will end up cutting wires, taping half of them out of the way, and then inserting the others in nonsensical positions. And don't get me started on why you'd possibly ever need a switch in the system on the diagnostic line.

You can actually add the alt. sensor close to the D2 or close to the Digimax - your choice of where you cut the cables.

And it's much easier to crimp those pins with the proper tool than with a pair of pliers. I bought a Delphi Packard Weatherpack crimper for another job, but it works well for these pins too.

thanks for the comeback DF !

was pressed for time last week - prep'g for a roadtrip - and never did come back to see if my question might've been addressed - got that same diagram the next day from the techsupp guy at esparNA (in ontario somewhere) - he confirmed my observation/? that simply connecting the same wire colors from the hi-alt box onto the main harness TO the heater - preferably at the control head - is all that needs to be done - he also mentioned that 'due to communication problems between NA and germany' along with several different control heads, that they havent quite got round to making these hi-alt kits 'plug n play' (which seems absurd to me, that something that costs as much as these things do, that it wasnt PnP in the first place!)

and altho the thing seems to be working OK - at least it runs and kept us warm at el8000-10000 (up at A-basin, camping 23mi down the road at el8000, night temps into the 30's) - it doesnt seem to be firing-up&burning quite as 'smooth' as it did w/o the hi-alt box ?? (more puffing smoke and 'popping' noise at startup than i seem to recall prev)

and the techsupp guy said that the SPDT (single pole, double throw) switch is recommended for 'diagnostics' via the control head, since only ONE device can be connected to the D2 at one time.

other than all that, the D2 seems to be working quite nicely and was well worth the trouble (for someone like me, who considers 'room temp' to be appx 75degF)

next question:

i installed the heater in the pedestal beneath the starbd-side front seat
(pardon my use of boat terminology; its more logical/descriptive on things like vehicles, than 'passenger' side)
with the output duct facing aft into the 'salon'

am considering closing-in the top of the pedestal and putting an intake duct/hose thru the fwd side of the pedestal, to contain/reduce the noise -
any reason why this wouldnt be OK?

That's a good way to feed it and it should quiet it a little. I've only had issues on mine when the intake was sucking some warm air from the cabin and caused an overheat code and shutdown.