Won't crank

Hello fellow sprinters. Can someone help me with this problem. I have av 04 2500. With the ignition key In the on position the electric fan on the outside of the radiator comes on....and won't go off. The glow plug light stays lit. The oil temp and fuel indicator lights also stay on. The engine won't crank. At first prom was intermittent . Now, well it's worse. I'm using Valvoline 5w 40 full synthetic diesel H D.

Its the fuse block that hangs underneath the steering column, it gets worn/bad connections and does the weird things you have described.

I have had a no crank, no start issue for the last 4 years.
It suddenly manifested itself very intermittently at first, and progressivly worsened.
I have wasted many manhours trying to resolve the problem. ( but, fortunately wasted no money)
I am retired now, but have a background in electronics. I have checked and tested everything, but replaced nothing. The only thing I found was a dry solder joint in fuse block 1 which was affecting my wipers. Fixed that, but had no effect on the main problem. I have now given up. I'll live with it, and hope somebody smarter than me comes up with the answer one day. My opinion is ..... its just a case of "the computer says no ! " ( for reasons that I don't understand )
How do I start the engine ?
I took the exact same route as LuckyDawgz Jim .
Positive battery feed via 30 amp fuse and relay, direct to starter solonoid.
My start button is located on the side of the seat base near the handbrake. It does not take it's power feed via the key, just in case the ignition switch is faulty. At this stage .... I trust nothing! The button is out of sight, and may even help prevent the Sprinter from being stolen.
I start mine by holding the key in the starting position, then press my home made start button. ( requires both hands ) ALWAYS 100 % successful. Occasionally the Sprinter starts before I get to press my magic button. Probably happens only about 2 - 3 times in every hundred starts, usually takes me by surprise, as I have got used to it not starting without extra help.
Easy way to try yours, have somebody hold the key in the start position ( position 3 against the spring tension ) whilst you jump start the solenoid by applying positive direct from the battery to the solenoid terminal on the starter motor .
This may give you a work around to start the vehicle reliably whilst you try and track down the problem.
Good luck.
Steve.

Thanks guys. I have a 55 Chevy nomad ( pro street) which has an extra ford solenoid mounted on the firewall. Additionally, a key and push button start set up. So, this get it running now and continue to troubleshoot is in my wheelhouse. I am a remodeler getting the shaft part of the mine in a divorce. Funds are tight. Thanks again.

Nearly all of the time when it won't crank but the elec fan comes on, it's a bad fuse block. $100 and includes all new fuses and relays. I'd think the relays alone would be worth almost that much from a dealer.

You can try wiggling the ECU relay while trying to start, or swapping it with the turn signal relay (identical). Someone posted that they would push the ECU relay a particular direction and contact was made, so they just put a wedge in there to hold it in that position! Hopefully they eventually got a new fuse block.

Silver,

I just went thru this - you can search for my posts using the SEARCH function in the blue bar. Lots of useful info. I recommend searching for "No Crank" and "Auxiliary Fan" as it appears you do not have the common SKREEM "no start" condition. You will get lots of good info.

Also - You will have better luck whenever you post asking for help in the future if you also fill out your bio info or signature line (or both) so us folks (who like to help) can know what year /model van you drive.

Good luck!

Thanks all. On a few occasions my turn signals stopped working. My interior lights are gone. No radio. I have spent some time tracing.... Sounds like , time for a fuse block. Hulagun, I did fill out my bio. I will look again. As described in the first line of my post, I have a 04' 2500' I did leave off its A 158 high roof . 180k on the clock. I have been buying parts out of San Diego, name is eluding me at the moment. Any preference for electrical parts? Thanks again.

I think Hulagan means to fill out a "signature" line that automatically sows at the bottom of each post; like what you see below......

A quick update. I did replace the fuse block. Dealer item, $145. This did resolve several issues. Unfortunately, the no crank demon still lingers. Hula gun, I will be searching your posts today. Hulagun and surlyoldbill, where do I fill out a signature line. I do have the parts ( no relay yet) for the 'end around' repair accomplished by skippy and emu. Just hesitant!!

Silver158 said:

A quick update. I did replace the fuse block. Dealer item, $145. This did resolve several issues. Unfortunately, the no crank demon still lingers. Hula gun, I will be searching your posts today. Hulagun and surlyoldbill, where do I fill out a signature line. I do have the parts ( no relay yet) for the 'end around' repair accomplished by skippy and emu. Just hesitant!!

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I have sent you a PM. Give it a try... you have nothing to lose and a LOT to gain.

I start mine by holding the key in the starting position, then press my home made start button. ( requires both hands ) ALWAYS 100 % successful. Occasionally the Sprinter starts before I get to press my magic button. Probably happens only about 2 - 3 times in every hundred starts, usually takes me by surprise, as I have got used to it not starting without extra help.
Easy way to try yours, have somebody hold the key in the start position ( position 3 against the spring tension ) whilst you jump start the solenoid by applying positive direct from the battery to the solenoid terminal on the starter motor .
This may give you a work around to start the vehicle reliably whilst you try and track down the problem.

Steve

Some days, the bear eat you! So, the new fuse block is in...helped with radio among other items. Did the end around push button start. Cranks like crazy������. Yet, it won't fire. They must have added another level of protection after 03. Hulagun, I did search your posts,and am working thru them. With this my busiest season... Leaving it w a mechanic , well some aren't as. 'Tuned up' as this group. Any further help would be greatly appreciated. Quick fix now.... Pamper old silver next month��

I did install the push button FIX. It does crank yet won't fire. Key held in the start n crank positions. The problem has gotten worse. Last time it started I took the van to a sprinter mechanic. He said he tried his usual tricks but the computer needed to be replaced. I hope to have the van back today. $800.00 to replace and program the nemesis. Thanks to everyone for their help. I did learn a bit while on this mission.

Any update on this? I am experiencing similar issues with no crank, no start, aux fan on during no crank and glow plug light won't go out. When it does finally start the ECU indicator light is on. I have tried a few solutions posted around here and elsewhere to no avail. Starts eventually after 1-20 minutes with many tries and doesn't seem to hesitate when it does start. Did replacing the ECU work? I know that has been the pricey solution for a few people with similar issues and I'm not against having it done and forking over the cash for it, just want my van to work consistently!

Does anybody know the part number for the number one fuse block "the one under the steering wheel" and where to get it for a 2005 Dodge sprinter freightliner with Mercedes-Benz diesel
Thanks in advance

Ratking said:

Does anybody know the part number for the number one fuse block "the one under the steering wheel" and where to get it for a 2005 Dodge sprinter freightliner with Mercedes-Benz diesel
Thanks in advance

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Europarts SD has everything you could want

http://europarts-sd.com/item.asp?cID=97&PID=3638

Teeny quibble: it's either a Dodge or a Freightliner .... these days the companies are separate (and Freightliner is still owned by MB).

MB will perform free recall work on a Freightliner. They probably won't on a Dodge.

--dick
p.s. "probably" ... there's always the 1-in-a-thousand chance they'll take pity on you (or succumb to bribery)