Aufmerksamkeit Achtung Warnung!!!!

  • Thread starter Deleted member 50714
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D

Deleted member 50714

Guest
My awesome and most exquisite 2015 Sprinter just turned 10 grand today. So, I thought would rotate the tires. However, my 30-year-old, communist manufactured Harbor Freight floor jack finally went kaput!

As a result, I broke out and un-bagged the brand new, super duper hydraulic jack that came with the Sprinter. Guess what? The piece of scheisse wouldn't work! Yes sir, Meredes-Benz real quality! My only consolation is I made this discovery while in the comfort and convenience of my laboratory (I refrain from using the term "workshop" or the word "work") and not on the side of of a remote road.

I bring this others attention as they may want to see if their jack works...er, I mean functions.
 
G

Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
Why wouldn't it work?

FYI it is a 2 stage jack.

On my 08 the lug bolt wrench supplied by Mercedes would bend before it would loosen the bolts. Had to buy a breaker bar and socket from HF.
 
L

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Bobnoxious said:
My awesome and most exquisite 2015 Sprinter just turned 10 grand today. So, I thought would rotate the tires. However, my 30-year-old, communist manufactured Harbor Freight floor jack finally went kaput!

As a result, I broke out and un-bagged the brand new, super duper hydraulic jack that came with the Sprinter. Guess what? The piece of scheisse wouldn't work! Yes sir, Meredes-Benz real quality! My only consolation is I made this discovery while in the comfort and convenience of my laboratory (I refrain from using the term "workshop" or the word "work") and not on the side of of a remote road.

I bring this others attention as they may want to see if their jack works...er, I mean functions.
Click to expand...
Bobnoxious
What are you doing ? FFS
The jack is there for MB roadside assistance or certified MB mechanics at a dealership to use ONLY!.

The only exception are Mexican mechanics who work in "talleres" also known as a patch of dirt in some areas , but definitely not "laboratorios".:hugs:
The exception might be a trash truck mechanics.
Used to working with & on rubbish related problems every day they should be able to resolve the problem for you with a few Piasters changing hands.
Best of luck & all the best.
Dennis
Mechanic
(apprenticed many yurs ago on Shelvoke & Drury trash trucks) :laughing:
 
sailquik

sailquik

Well-known member
Bobnoxious,
In what way did the OEM service jack "not work"?
If the plastic bag it comes packaged in was full of oil, then I can understand WHY it didn't work, but otherwise, since it's
a very high capacity 2 stage hydraulic jack you set it up an use it just like any other hydraulic bottle jack except:
1/ You have to close off the bleeder valve (if it's not already closed) first so the jack can build pressure under the
2 stage ram.
2/ Since it's a high capacity jack, each full stroke of the pump doesn't extend the ram very far, but it does go up.
3/ Then, when you've pumped it quite a few times and have reached the top of the first stage of the ram (and are convinced that MB
screwed up and provided a service jack that doesn't have enough range to even get the wheel off the ground (even with a 2" x 8-12" x 18-24" plank
or 2 under the base of the jack) you pump some more, the effort to pump gets a bit harder and "Voila" the 2nd stage of the jack ram (the smaller one on the
inside of the larger one) successfully lifts your Sprinter high enough to remove the wheel and tire.
4/ No need to jack the wheel any higher that just enough to take the pressure off a fully inflated tire so the lug bolts or lug studs (516/519/3500 uses lug studs)
so you don't have to lift the heavy tire/wheel, just pull it free of the studs (516/519/3500) and roll the away.
5/ New tire/wheel gets rolled into place and goes right on the studs (516/519/3500) without lifting....just slide it sideways into place.
On 316/319/2500 Sprinters with lug bolts (vs the studs on the 3500's with dual rear wheels) you do it the same way and then you can rotate the hub to align the
lug bolt holes in the wheel with the lug bolt tapped threads in the hub and install all 5 lug bolts....never having to lift a heavy wheel/tire assembly.
6/ Snug all the lug bolts or lug nuts up with a regular lug nut wrench (19 mm if I recall) and then release the valve on the jack to set the Sprinter back down on
the wheel you just changed.
7/ Get out your torque wrench and torque all the lugs to the torque specified in your Operator's Manual.
Here's the torque specifications (from the 2014 Operator's Manual:
Sprinter Wheel Tightening Torques:
Edited from the 2014 USA Spec Sprinter Operator’s Manual

316/319/2500 Series Sprinter w 5 or 6 Lug BOLTS w single rear wheels
Wheel/Lug BOLT tightening torque:
Steel wheels: 177 lb-ft (240 Nm)
Light Alloy wheels: 133 lb-ft (180 Nm)

416/516/519 3500 Series Sprinter w 6 Lug NUTS with DUAL rear wheels
Steel Wheel /Lug NUT tightening torque: 133 lb-ft (180 Nm)
If you have light alloy wheels on your 516/519/3500 Sprinter or Sprinter
based RV use the torque specifications that came with the aftermarket
light alloy wheels!
As suggested, get a 24" min. 1/2 " Drive breaker bar and a 19 mm (0.74802") socket (a 3/4" six point socket will work here) to loosen
the lug bolts (2500 series) or lug nuts (3500 series).
Here's a link to a torque wrench @ Lowe's that's up to the task of correctly and accurately tightening 2500 series Sprinter lug bolts:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_337334-22328-85602_0__?productId=3381202
Hope this helps,
Roger
 
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autostaretx

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Bobnoxious said:
My awesome and most exquisite 2015 Sprinter just turned 10 grand today.
Click to expand...
... so you're still under the "bumper-to-bumper" portion of your warranty.

Appear at your dealership and say "Please fix or replace"

--dick
p.s. a few years ago there was a thread started by someone finding out that his T1N's jack had leaked its oil into the storage well. That kicked a bunch of us to go out and test our jacks. I used mine (like you) to rotate my tires ... including a go at the lug wrench.
Unlike you, i was lucky ... the entire kit functioned properly. (i also already carried a better lug wrench in the form of my trusty 45-year-old Craftsman 1/2" ratchet, but there might be a day it got left at home)
 
D

Deleted member 50714

Guest
Tooth Fairy said:
Did you twiddle the little handle on the jack to close off the valve for pumping?

Probably not, maybe you should get your man servant to twiddle for you, report back after a twiddle.
Click to expand...

Lol! Yes by golly I not only twiddled but fiddled with it too with very strong tongue. Nope, no effect. Charles, my man-servant who prefers the title "Estate manager" had recently fired my personal mechanic, Gunther, for recommending the Sprinter. So, for the first time in my life, I decided to go out and see what it was actually like to work...er exert physical effort.
 
D

Deleted member 50714

Guest
Graphite Dave said:
Why wouldn't it work?

FYI it is a 2 stage jack.

On my 08 the lug bolt wrench supplied by Mercedes would bend before it would loosen the bolts. Had to buy a breaker bar and socket from HF.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I noticed the telescoping ram. The first ram extends fine but the second larger diameter portion continued to slip around the smaller portion. Maybe because it has been stored on its side for who knows how many years the fluid needs more time to flow to the reservoir?

I just wanted to share this with others so they won't discover this when they need it the most.
 
sailquik

sailquik

Well-known member
Ummmm..... the Sprinter 2 stage Service Jack is not designed to work without a load on the top saddle.
When the top saddle is loaded (hopefully on the recommended Sprinter jacking points clearly defined in the Operator's Manual)
the smaller 2nd stage ram will stay down inside the larger (outer) 1st stage ram until the 1st stage ram is fully extended and
is stopped from going any higher by the snap ring on the ram hitting the top ring of the jack body.
Then the 2nd stage will begin to extend.
Roger
 
D

Deleted member 50714

Guest
lindenengineering said:
Bobnoxious
What are you doing ? FFS
The jack is there for MB roadside assistance or certified MB mechanics at a dealership to use ONLY!.

The only exception are Mexican mechanics who work in "talleres" also known as a patch of dirt in some areas , but definitely not "laboratorios".:hugs:
The exception might be a trash truck mechanics.
Used to working with & on rubbish related problems every day they should be able to resolve the problem for you with a few Piasters changing hands.
Best of luck & all the best.
Dennis
Mechanic
(apprenticed many yurs ago on Shelvoke & Drury trash trucks) :laughing:
Click to expand...
Gosh, I just don't know I was thinking about using the jack. It will never happened again.
 
D

Deleted member 50714

Guest
sailquik said:
Bobnoxious,
In what way did the OEM service jack "not work"?
If the plastic bag it comes packaged in was full of oil, then I can understand WHY it didn't work, but otherwise, since it's
a very high capacity 2 stage hydraulic jack you set it up an use it just like any other hydraulic bottle jack except:
1/ You have to close off the bleeder valve (it it's not already closed) first so the jack can build pressure under the
2 stage ram.
2/ Since it's a high capacity jack, each full stroke of the pump doesn't extend the ram very far, but it does go up.
3/ Then, when you've pumped it quite a few times and have reached the top of the first stage of the ram (and are convinced that MB
screwed up and provided a service jack that doesn't have enough range to even get the wheel off the ground (even with a 2" x 8-12" x 18-24" plank
or 2 under the base of the jack) you pump some more, the effort to pump gets a bit harder and "Voila" the 2nd stage of the jack ram (the smaller one on the
inside of the larger one) successfully lifts your Sprinter high enough to remove the wheel and tire.
4/ No need to jack the wheel any higher that just enough to take the pressure off a fully inflated tire so the lug bolts or lug studs (516/519/3500 uses lug studs)
so you don't have to lift the heavy tire/wheel, just pull it free of the studs (516/519/3500) and roll the away.
5/ New tire/wheel gets rolled into place and goes right on the studs (516/519/3500) without lifting....just slide it sideways into place.
On 316/319/2500 Sprinters with lug bolts (vs the studs on the 3500's with dual rear wheels) you do it the same way and then you can rotate the hub to align the
lug bolt holes in the wheel with the lug bolt tapped threads in the hub and install all 5 lug bolts....never having to lift a heavy wheel/tire assembly.
6/ Snug all the lug bolts or lug nuts up with a regular lug nut wrench (19 mm if I recall) and then release the valve on the jack to set the Sprinter back down on
the wheel you just changed.
7/ Get out your torque wrench and torque all the lugs to the torque specified in your Operator's Manual.
Here's the torque specifications (from the 2014 Operator's Manual:
Sprinter Wheel Tightening Torques:
Edited from the 2014 USA Spec Sprinter Operator’s Manual

316/319/2500 Series Sprinter w 5 or 6 Lug BOLTS w single rear wheels
Wheel/Lug BOLT tightening torque:
Steel wheels: 177 lb-ft (240 Nm)
Light Alloy wheels: 133 lb-ft (180 Nm)

416/516/519 3500 Series Sprinter w 6 Lug NUTS with DUAL rear wheels
Steel Wheel /Lug NUT tightening torque: 133 lb-ft (180 Nm)
If you have light alloy wheels on your 516/519/3500 Sprinter or Sprinter
based RV use the torque specifications that came with the aftermarket
light alloy wheels!
As suggested, get a 24" min. 1/2 " Drive breaker bar and a 19 mm (0.74802") socket (a 3/4" six point socket will work here) to loosen
the lug bolts (2500 series) or lug nuts (3500 series).
Here's a link to a torque wrench @ Lowe's that's up to the task of correctly and accurately tightening 2500 series Sprinter lug bolts:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_337334-22328-85602_0__?productId=3381202
Hope this helps,
Roger
Click to expand...
Thank you so much Roger for the info!

I didn't notice oil in the bag. The bleeder valve was certainly closed. I noticed the smaller diameter ram extended first, then larger one. Is this backwards? I took a video and will provide a link when I can.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
L

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Sorry Guys
That jack I wouldn't have confidence in no matter what the circumstances.
Shiver me timbers!

On the roadside with a flat, wheel off and a semi go by and its weeblesville!

I did it once on 1/25 near Cheyenne on a call out and had to get a wheel off and that was enough!
I have had some close calls in almost 60 years of fixin' stuff but that jack is scary from a Pro's perspective!

As a side ditty this week we had a 2008 906 RV with a humongous body on it and just shy of its max GVW.
The rear road springs had sagged; it was getting two new ones and a Summo set.
Even on the 4 post column I insisted my guys steady the rig with a 100 ton fork truck forks placed under the rear frame section as an additional steady--just in case!

I use on a call out a 20 tonne bottle jack with a 12 inch base, its air operated or a 20 tonne floor jack.
Leave that stupid appendage in the tool box if you value life and limb.
Shivering me timbers even when I just look at it!
Dennis
Mechanic
 
sailquik

sailquik

Well-known member
Dennis/All,
If you place the jack on some 2" x 8-10" x 18-24" long hardwood (like Oak) planks it gets a lot more stable.
If you take a sander or grinding wheel and make a slightly concave depression in the center of your top plank
the jack gets very stable.
I agree with Dennis that unless you have the planks with the depression underneath the slight radius on the
cast iron base of the jack it's not really very stable and definitely not very safe or well engineered from an
operator safety perspective.
I always scratch my head about why in the world MB would accept jack bases that are not completely flat.
A slightly rough surface, perhaps with a casting parting line running through it would be acceptable, but a "designed in"
slight radius......what the heck were they thinking?
Hmmmm.....maybe put the jack in a milling machine and dust off the bottom until it's flat.
Could even do it with a grinder and get a lot closer to flat/stable than what's in the OEM MB design.
Roger
 
Last edited:
D

Deleted member 50714

Guest
lindenengineering said:
Sorry Guys
That jack I wouldn't have confidence in no matter what the circumstances.
Shiver me timbers!

On the roadside with a flat, wheel off and a semi go by and its weeblesville!

I did it once on 1/25 near Cheyenne on a call out and had to get a wheel off and that was enough!
I have had some close calls in almost 60 years of fixin' stuff but that jack is scary from a Pro's perspective!

As a side ditty this week we had a 2008 906 RV with a humongous body on it and just shy of its max GVW.
The rear road springs had sagged; it was getting two new ones and a Summo set.
Even on the 4 post column I insisted my guys steady the rig with a 100 ton fork truck forks placed under the rear frame section as an additional steady--just in case!

I use on a call out a 20 tonne bottle jack with a 12 inch base, its air operated or a 20 tonne floor jack.
Leave that stupid appendage in the tool box if you value life and limb.
Shivering me timbers even when I just look at it!
Dennis
Mechanic
Click to expand...
LOL! I certainly will take heed of you wisdom and experience! Remove the "dead weight" from the van and call AAA. Maybe I'll send the bottle jack to the CEO of Mercedez, he can use it as a paperweight.
 
D

Deleted member 50714

Guest
DUMMKOPF

Okay, I am the DUMMKOPF! The jack is not defective, I am. :yell:

I placed a 6 inch block of Doug fir under the Jack, ensured the valve was closed and actuated the lever. The large diameter ram began to rise first and when fully extended the small ram began to raise. So, the jack functions perfectly.

Also, I would like to mention I didn't have to come clean with my mistake and could have continued to proclaim the Jack was faulty. However, I am an honest and genuine person and advocate of being truthful. In addition, I am always willing to admit my mistakes and when I am wrong. So, go ahead and make fun of me because I can always laugh at myself and enjoy and never take offense to all genres of humor.

Mel Brooks said, " Tragedy is when I cut my finger. Comedy is when you slip and fall into a cesspool and die."

This has been a learning experience for me and I hope others. First, Dave mentioned his factory supplied lug wrench was of insufficient strength to break loose the wheel lugs. As a result, I have included a Craftsman half-inch breaker bar in the tool compartment. Also, Dennis articulated the hazards and dangers of jacking up a vehicle using the factory supplied Jack (or any Jack for that matter) and certainly going to take heed of his experience and wisdom. Others provided some humorous remarks. Last but not least, Roger contributed back saving tips on remounting the wheels and will include in my traveling toolbox some blocks of oak to place under the Jack as support. Boy Scout motto: Be prepared!

My thanks to you to all!!

The "Troll" Bob
 
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