View Full Version : How much of an undertaking is it to run speaker wires to the back on a 2016 crew?

03-09-2016, 08:14 PM
I want to run just a couple of 6x9's in the back from the stock head unit.

03-09-2016, 08:22 PM
Depends where you want to put them. I put mine into the upper rear door pockets

I fished wires from pocket through the door cable hose which was a pain. And then along the existing wire bundle above the headliner. This went down the B pillar and then under driver seat to cable bundle tray that goes up to stereo. Note the factory stereo needs the rear outputs activated.
I put in an aftermarket headunit so didnt have to deal with it

So its a big job because you have to remove a bunch of stuff. I was already in there so it was the right time to do it.

03-10-2016, 02:36 AM
I replaced my front speakers first. I then did what Sprinter Paul did only I ran my wire tucked under the headliner and down the A pillar (easy to remove) and then I spliced them into the wires that run to the doors. The Head unit is easy to remove. I was under the impression that my head unit did not have the ability to have rear speakers as I saw no fade action in the functions. I can supply the wire colour codes for left, right, -, and + if you need them. I have a 2015 4x4.

11-26-2016, 01:49 AM
So, I'm a little confused..does the stock head unit have outputs for rear speakers???

I'll take wire color codes [if you are still watching this thread :-)]

11-26-2016, 01:56 AM

After I did what I posted abouve I found out that the stock head unit does have rear Speaker outlets. You need to do two things;

Have your dealer put in the code it activate the fader fuction on the head unit.

Buy the set of pins from the parts department. These go into the head unit at the back beside the wires that go to the doors. I had this part done by a Installer as i wasn't comfortable doing this myself. I beleive there are postes on this process somewhere on the site.

I addd a 500 watt amp and a sub and i have to say it's a completely different sound experiance.

Good Luck.

11-26-2016, 01:59 AM

what did you do up front?

11-26-2016, 02:01 AM
oh, also since this thread is about running them to the back...

...any thoughts on how long the wire runs wound up being?

Walter Clark
11-26-2016, 11:18 AM
So, I'm a little confused..does the stock head unit have outputs for rear speakers???

I'll take wire color codes [if you are still watching this thread :-)]

If you want to route the speaker wires along with most of the rest of the wiring going to the rear then yes the headliner comes out and the speaker wires are strung along the roof/side junction on the drivers side.

11-26-2016, 05:14 PM
Ahh, yes I get that the headliner is removed [I also am doing a cargo van so it is already gone]. I wanted to buy the wire so I was hoping that somebody might have a guide like:

"If you go along the top and down the b pillar you will need ______________ feet of wire to reach the passenger side door [the furthest point]". [optimally for a 144]

I want to run marine speaker wire so it's around $0.50 a foot - not bad but not cheap.

BTW are people going down the "b" or the "a" pillar? and can you fish under the floor without removing it?

11-26-2016, 11:57 PM
I think I bought 60 feet total. One step that is quite hard is removing the wire boots that connect between the body and the doors. They have a bunch of clips that can snap very easily. I used a hot air gun and heated them up which made it much easier to remove them. I had to put 1/4 spacer ring between my speakers and the panel in order to keep the magnet from touching the outside door skin.

11-27-2016, 12:14 AM
I've found that for "future-tear-off", you May want to add just a little grease on thise clips, silicon etc.

In case you need to take 'em off again, the grease will help a lot, but still keeps its place firmly.

03-11-2017, 04:47 PM
So I thought I would post some lessons learned regarding this process. [And lessons I should have known]. Of course YMMV.

First off length of wire - I purchased a 100 foot roll and had 17 feet left - probably with 4-6 feet of extra tails. This was with running the wire along the factory wire chase and down the B pillar. So I think 80 feet would have been a good number. This is for a 144.

Second off, regarding the clips on rubber "tubes" - heat gun would have been a good idea. Trying to take them off in the bitter cold = bad idea. [Things you know aren't going to work but you still do them anyway - duh].

But a better idea I found was to take off the van side clip only. This can be done safely by slipping your hand inside the frame and manually releasing the clips. With the van side off a wire tape can be fed to the top of the door. With the one side off the free end can be lowered to allow for a relatively straight line. Takes a little patience to feed the snake but it is very doable. And a bit of a "milking" action on the corrugated tube seems to help. Also if the wire tape hangs up you can aid in the steering by moving that free end - I found that the tape cleared the hinge [a hanging point] when I stood on the outside of the door and fed the tape.

Since my fish tape was super long I used it to simply pull back a piece of rope. I ran two wires up [one for work lights].

Now I need to figure out this pin thing. Does anyone have the part number? The Seattle dealer wants to charge 1/2 hour PER WIRE to hook up the speakers - ontop of the 1/2 hour to reprogram the fader control. 2.5 hours!!!! No thanks.

If anyone happens to have a link or wants to give some tips for crimping the wire and the color codes on the radio that would be great. [yes, I know, "search" is my friend]

03-11-2017, 05:08 PM
Thick "Weed Whacker" nylon string makes an excellent and inexpensive "fish tape."