View Full Version : limp mode after egr leak behind turbo, drove 350 miles limp

03-03-2016, 04:47 AM
2007 2500 3.0
NOW.., repaired egr tube leak but still have low boost 0 or neg .01 at idle to about 3 ocassionally.

BEFORE...EGR leak was intermittant after Midas failed miserably and went into limp mode after o few hundred miles with noticable leak but while running normal mpg, lod, boost. Had engine compartment exhaust, light smoke.

Last night went into limp, drove 350 slow miles, did I dirty the O2...to cause limp after leak repair? Have had same codes with O2 and dpf for a month now.

Turbo actuator cycling when running, off.
Getting dash symbol looks like [-]O kinda and appears in odometer position, will not go into cruise control when this symbol is lit, stays on just a minute ocassionally. Is this O2 sensor, cant find any reference.

IM baffled as all hoses OK, turbo cycling, ... seems O2 bad..will this limp turbo? Will actuator cycle turbo but stick? Read all the threads but help is nice, eyes bleeding.
Any input on least expensive O2 sensor replacement, I am solder iron capable.
Where is this sensor located?

03-03-2016, 12:49 PM
The goods news no solder iron in need for 99.5 % of all repairs on Sprinter emssions.

The bad news one of the those codes is the intake manifold swirl valves. These valves are related to the EGR, they are part of the intake manifold, they get sticky or freeze usually with higher mileage. The real fix is manifold replacement, it is a big job 9-11 hours and $$$$. There was a post that claimed a solvent injection into the manifold could clean the swirl valves over time. There are risks and unknown if it works. Done wrong it would be possible to destroy the engine !!! If the gears on the swirl valves have failed cleaning would not help. sWirl valves will cause LIMP.

The other code is EGR temp sensor related. There are two EGR temp sensors. Given the swirl valve problem the temp sensor should be addressed at that larger repair.

The last code is likely DPF related, likely plugged or not regen ( just a guess).

Sorry for the bad news........The above is based on the codes you gave and assumes they are accurate. Given the recent history the codes are likey correct. It appears you need an experienced Sprinter repair shop as these a huge and complex repairs.

03-03-2016, 02:51 PM
Thanks for reply, it may seem the turbo initiates on new start but shuts back to limp mode very fast, i cang get 8 worth of boost on scanguage before shutdown, in limp 0 to 3 maybe at high rev.

I have searched for the illusive swirl mechanism but cannot identify....
Have found no pics on site just crude drawing that seems useless.

I need to get this unit up or i will be living in street:drool:. Can a BG flush help this? , besides slight egr leak last 700 miles turbo worked fine, just a little less PEP IN acceleration. Turbo inspection tight bearings, little to no play like new, actuator cycles in on off positions.

Will read again swirl threads, need OOSR OUT OF SHOP REPAIR.... all i find is croooks in commercial shops.

Is the swirl actuator (i read its mechanical arms moving the vanes and accessible) arms under the manifold? :thinking::thinking::thinking::thinking::thinking:

03-03-2016, 02:55 PM
There is a ton of info so swirl valve .....Search line is your friend:


The above link will get you 108 posts on the swirl valve. There many posts that explain what others have done on swirl valves. Swirl valves are inside the intake manifolds. The vanes are in the manifold the linkage is out side the manifold. The manifolds are sold with the swirl valves in place.

Slide 66 of 105 in this link shows the swirl valve:


Link to service manual on swirl valve service / replacing the intake:


BG treatment is not likely to fix your problem. It is possible just not likely or long term. Several of the post explain swirl valve sticky or clogging Similar to heart problems with clogged veins or arteries around the heart. Not easy to fix without major surgery. Then .............There still the DPF issue to deal with after the swirl valves. DPF issue will cause LIMP or low power as well. Plugged DPF is like having a colon issue if we are relating to medical term. None of these issues are pleasant, quick or cheap to fix.

03-03-2016, 04:23 PM
Has anyone else successfully used the SeaFoam/Diesel injection method to turbo intake?
Can once I find the swirl valve arms, they be moved or worked free as explained in the above method without disconnecting the motor/servo?

I am victim of being loaded with Hazmat ..sulfuric acid, loaded by Bolt Contract and sold me fraud insurance...FCMSA or whatever refused to investigate beyond reading BOL of cargo to verify hazmat, NOT CONTAINER CLEANING PROCESS even when company admits and insurance that metal containers afe washed with Sulfuric Acid.... think a little corruption involved here. Anyways need fix as i am slowly loosing oxygen saturation capacity -8% in 6 months, permenent chemical pneumonia, Wish i could buy new parts...this is a pitch for attorney ????

03-03-2016, 07:41 PM
I am going to try the Diesel/Seafoam injection repair. I would like to know where in his description he is pulling and pushing to loosen the valves. (Move the assembly back n forth,:thinking: loose)

Dont think I dont search and read, I always ask because many times the best, easiest, efficient fix is hard to find.

Rob S
03-04-2016, 03:20 PM
Looks like might be a primne candidate for GDE eco tune, but you need $600 (695 minus forum member discount)


It deletes EGR and Swirl Valve function in 2007 - 2009 models, Of course it can't fix defective sensors.

Otherwise the swirl valve fix if required is the most expensive/difficult bit.

03-05-2016, 01:13 AM
Met with Todd today author of the SeaFoam swirl valve fix. He checked vehicle and confirmed stuck swirls and released them. Actuator was moving full motion and returning briskly to spring loaded return position. After long talk I started up and no power. He thinks i may have bad linkage, I played with the linkage and broke driver side clip. :yell: Sooo I ordered two clips here tomorrow, I think motor is badbut no one has confirmed a bench test for this part. I plugged in swithed vehicle on off many times with no movement of actuator. Started motor but for some reason could not rev, so no movement. I think actuator is bad, anyone have bench test.

I read in jeep post that the actuator can be connected to its clips by removing fuel filter assembly and tilting to access reconnection of clips to arm runners.

Hopefully motor is bad, dont want bad runner arms.

03-05-2016, 01:57 AM
I will be frank will you--You are peeing into the wind!
I would hazard a guess from the mileage you have on your Sprinter engine the EKAS links are worn out!
Heat is one of the culprits that ovals the pivot holes.
Bench testing might produce some a few interesting exercises in actuator operation but the only practical way to deal with the issue is to fix it.

Apart from the need to buy the air intake runners I also bet you the inlet ports are choked with carbon together with the EGR cooler and the particulate filter.
I see my fair share of customers who limp into the shop looking for a miracle fix, but frankly there isn't one.
As one of my Mex Mechs says "Senor Milagros No Hay con carros Mercedes" !

The runners are $1450 a pair and they come with a new actuator.
You will need about $60 of gaskets and about 13 to 16 hours of labor to get the thing to run as it should.
All in all expect to pay about $3500 up if you use a shop to fix it!
Best of luck

03-05-2016, 02:39 AM
I am alive thanks to at least 20 miracles, 2 kidnappings and attempted third by fine mass murderers who work for our government politicians keeping the drug trade at full throttle. Yes you may be right odds are, will install new clips and go from there.

When you make millions let me assure you their are people in every town who you will find in your local courthouse behind the bench and in prosecuting positions who will kill and even when caught no one will process. If you dont join when they offer in their local lodge you will be eliminated or stripped of any wealth or rights or both.

Short of my rambling the sprinter or newer ones are underbuilt and just like a drug fastracked by the FDA and cause more illnesses than they fix. But as stated the same people described above are not promoting user satisfaction but forcing ultimate profit with less and less choice every day.

Should never have sold my T1

So the big problem is that the little ball joint connectors wear oval hindering free movement. How come we have to burn such cheap fuel and then add emmisions to clean the impurities. Smart people forging stupidity.:bow:
Thanks Dennis your help in the past has been priceless.

03-06-2016, 07:39 PM
Removed swirl actuator in 30 minutes, just remove fuel filter and bracket, push aside wires. Undo bracket above and actuator bolts. Ball swivels allow tilting, moving of actuator to release clips. You can move it forward backward, up and down while tilting to obtain access to clips. Just do no force!! I used small screwdriver and hemostat to remove clip(s) or whatever substitutes. Took about 3 minutes or less. Your not using these tools as designed but simply to press on the connector insert wings that lock the ball swivel in the square actuator arms. When reinserting clips a total other process using super glue and maybe dental floss may work as I read in a thread about removing from a jeep with same motor. Their sure seems to be plenty of space to do this. I have limited material to manufacture custom wands that could reinsert these very easy if you did this enough to justify. Its a puzzle, not a hard one just time consuming.

Flip actuator over and apply round peg round hole, square peg square hole training, flip turn you will find its exit angle after a few tries, it will easily come out. Actuator swivel arms may get in way, just move them a little it will come out effortlessly.

One clip was black one white. The white a much less robust clip, it was dry and brittle an broke. The black clips were much thicker and not dried out. So do not use white clips around ball, use black.

Inspection, actuator was dry of any significant oil, mechanism cycles smooth no abnormal sound, no sound of interior contamination, with strong spring return.

Inspection swirl runners found passenger side well stuck. At first thought clip connector broke at runners but with some back and forth movement it released. Moved runners on both sides checking for full travel. Appears to be moving full open/closed on both sided. When open has feel of crisp clean stop at end travel. At closed side you can feel the build up inside as it closes with soft muted feel and sound. I guess to be expected.

Cleaned all clips, ball sockets , connector pins and reassembly now. Glad its warm here in kenosha, wisconsin today 46.

Rob S
03-06-2016, 11:06 PM
You could probably go ahead and make up the special tools, and purchase a small plane.

Then you could fly all over USA and Canada to free up and repair stuck swirl valves for half of the normal shop price, and make a fortune!!!

ps Let us know how long the fix lasts, so we can decide if this is worthwhile....

03-07-2016, 07:02 AM
I started at noon or so, first clip went on driver side in three minutes, passsenger side ohh about 8 hours:yell:
Everything working freely wrapped it up and still no turbo. I think turbo starts for about five seconds then shuts down, idle goes to .5 on scangauge for a few seconds. Then to 0 or -.1 Got it up to five 5 on one start but not sure if It was anything. Not enough time to tell

Got scanguage O2 sensor code and 2015 swirl and 242F I guess DPF, any input? Can rail sensors be replaced? Could that be it? Can O2 sensor cause limp mode.
actuator motor......


03-07-2016, 09:30 PM
Checked swirl motor for movement, started vehicle reved up down, nada. Took probe moved actuator arms, nothing frozen, no movement.
Checked egr valve, was pr8bably not moving easily, cleaned. Accelerated better, no miracle.

EGR had dry tiny spots of coked oil.

Drove 15 miles


Codes still
P2015 actuator swirl system
P0675 glow plug
P2032 O2 sensor which one, so many different opinions what sensors are what and where.

Time to buy new actuator.

03-10-2016, 04:38 AM
Replaced swirl actuator twice in three days but today with new one. Sprinter running very very good full power, cleaned sensors very good mpg.:cheers:

I was still experimenting with replacement procedure and it took only two hours fifteen minutes to remove and install. :thumbup:

Let me tell you if you made terrorists do this repair in Guantanamo before they could eat their meals they would gladly tell you everything they know. it would be a breeze for a watch builder.

I am glad to get back to work, 3 week late on truck pay, 8 days on rent.

Next job is to clean dpf, in my shower, lo no dollar, he he

Yes I will change your Swirl motor for $600 ha ha. :2cents:

Only piss into the rear of fan. Too tired to explain procedure riight now. :professor:

03-14-2016, 03:41 AM
"Heat is one of the culprits that ovals the pivot holes." Ovalizing via (easily anticipated) repeated actuation marks crude engineering.


03-14-2016, 04:16 AM