poll CEL/LHM experiences

has your sprinter experienced LHM?


  • Total voters
    23

krisinak

New member
i bought my 2005 2500 classB 4 months ago with 30k miles on the clock. since then i have put on about 7k miles. it has twice gone to limp mode. once for a blown turbo hose and again for a fuel regulator. to say the least i am not pleased with the reliability so far. it has me wondering if this is a fluke, or will this truck carry on like this? i would like to have more of a warm fuzzy feeling about the reliability. below is a poll thanks for responding.
 

NelsonSprinter

Former Nelson BC Sprinter
Both those problems could be age related. Rubber and O-rings deteriorate over time and a 10 year old machine by any maker will be subject to age . You could replace all hoses and O-rings now, for 8 years of trouble free driving, or as needed when it tells you something is wrong with a LHM
 
I'm with Nelson.... My 2005 158SRW 540 thousand miles on original everything except alternator and I think water pump. Never ever been into LHM..... I bought from original owner and knew him and the truck.... Maintenance is key for ANY vehicle. Also it's either use it or lose it...
 

flman

Well-known member
My T1Ns experienced LHM 2 to 3 times, but often and multiple times are almost the same thing, and sound like a lot more than 2 or 3 times.
 

Tulisan9k

New member
T1N '06 with only 45K miles. Went in LHM on a trip from Los Angeles to SD via 5. Symptoms: Lost power; would not go faster than 55mph, accelerator pedal had no effect beyond keeping it at 55mph. No CEL or codes thrown, so while this appears to have been a computer actuated Limp Mode the absence of codes is puzzling. I made a stop at a gas station to inspect the vehicle, and could not see any visible issues. But as I continued to poke around, noticed a hairline like line, maybe an 1.5 inches long on top of the charged air hose a couple of inches before it joins the intake manifold. I squeezed it a bit, and bingo! This was really lucky since if the crack was on the underside of the hose, I would not have found it at all, and since it had not thrown any codes, it would not have helped to get it to a dealer or repair shop, they would be guessing and replacing stuff in an effort to diagnose the problem. Due to the numerous threads here about the turbo resonator, the first thing I did, when I bought the truck used, 2 years ago, was to bite the bullet and get the solid alum resonator eliminator one less thing to worry about.

Ok, the fix: lucky I had a bicycle tire inner tube (old and discarded from too many flats), which I just happen to have for emergencies as I felt its better than take to fix busted hoses as one can tension more than, say, silicone tape or duct tape, but I do carry duct tape too. At any rate, its the perfect wrap if you are careful to overlap the tube around 50% as one would wrap it around a bike handlebar. By stretching the inner tube it provides enough tension to close the cracked hose. Once one has wrapped it beyond the crack, all one has to do is wrap it back towards the other end, cinch both ends together with a double knot and done. 5 minute repair that might be stronger than the original.

BUT this experience has warned me that those charged air hoses from the turbo upwards to the intake manifold need to be renewed. So when time and budget allows, I will be replacing them, including that MAP sensor which could also fail and trigger a LHM. Also, if you are cyclist, and have those discarded inner tubes, put one in your tool box.
Cheers!
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
My "multiple times" were based upon two failure types:
(a) 300 miles into new ownership, and once more annually for two more years: the Intake Air Temperature sensor screwed up.
They were all covered by warranty replacement (and the part number changed the first two times).
The 3rd time it happened, i didn't have the time to drop/pick-up the van, so i just bought the $30 part and did it myself, which also allowed me to analyze both the good and bad parts. It's merely a Siemens temperature sensor held in an MB plastic clip. The Siemens part itself is a little weird, and is not sold as a stand-alone electronic component here in the US. The bad one was a factor of ten "off" from the resistance it should have had at specified temperatures (should have been 6000 ohms at 68F ... it was 600 ohms). Low resistance is taken as higher temperature.

(b) my resonator finally cracked enough that turbo pressures higher than 27 psi would open it up, causing the ECU to stop trying to boost.
The Check Engine light would only occasionally come on, but performance would go into the toilet. (this is equivalent to blowing a turbo hose).
Based upon accumulated oil scum, there had been a tiny leak for years, but not enough to trigger anything.

There have also been instances when the engine would simply die. No CEL, no stored codes. Roll-start (no key action needed) usually (4 out of 5) would bring it back. Of the (perhaps) 8 or 10 times it's happened, all but once were at the same stop light, doing the same slow right turn with a bit of a tilt on the roadway. Avoiding that route avoids the problem. I suspect a stretched-wire harness kind'a cause.
--dick
 

cahaak

New member
On a camping trip shortly after I had the van (pulling the pop up camper) I noticed a loss of power. Removed the resonator at the site (220 miles from home). It had cracked at the seam and was leaking. Could not do anything to fix it there. Just babied the thing back home so that it would not turn off the turbo (which it did if you tried to run it too hard). Not too big of a deal and then replaced resonator with new one once home. No CEL or anything, but I knew what the issue was so not much of a big deal.

Chris
 

Top Bottom