Help with Stuck Bolt

OK, I managed to get the radiator out of the way. When changing the pump I also changed the tensioner and managed to break off both bolts. I was able to extract one, but I couldn't get the one on the drivers side out, in fact, the tip of the extractor bit I was using broke off inside the bolt.

I'm not having much luck getting the extractor tip out, so I thought I might drill on both sides of the tip into the bolt and get the tip out that way. This way, I'll probably mess up the threads of the bolt hole, but I remember Richard writing:

As for the tensioner, I have found that they strip very easily, so be careful! I also found that if you do strip the tensioner mounting bolt on the driver's side, you can drill all the way thru and install a bolt that is long enough to through bolt it with bolt and nut.

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I just wanted to make sure that this is possible on a 2006 2500 before I make this an even worse problem (again). Is it difficult to get to the back of the bolt hole to put a nut on? Will I have to remove anything else?

Right now I'm stuck in a Walmart parking lot. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill

Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Is there enough of the extractor exposed that a welder can tig onto?

Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

The extractor broke off flush with the bolt which is also flush with the engine. However, There is a small piece of the extractor sticking up. Doesn't seem to be enough to weld on to.

Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

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Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Just trying to find someone who has drilled through the right bolt hole for the tensioner and put a nut on the other side. I dont want to try this unless I can get more info on it. Ive already painted myself into a corner here. Any feeback would be very helpfull.

Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

I can't help you with the drilling through question.

I can say that in similar situations I have welded a nut to the bolt stub. Even with it broke off flush the weld will still often flow and grab the bolt. The heat of the weld often lets the bolt spin right out.

I have also welded a small (#10) screw to broken bolts as well.

If you can find a local tool supplier a left hand drill bit (preferable cobalt steel) may enable you to extract the bolt.

Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

lndlyb4 said:

Just trying to find someone who has drilled through the right bolt hole for the tensioner and put a nut on the other side. I dont want to try this unless I can get more info on it. Ive already painted myself into a corner here. Any feeback would be very helpfull.

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Would it matter whether you can add that nut in the backside? What option do you have if you don't find out whether you can add a nut to the backside?

It looks like there's enough material surrounding the broken bolt that you can tap it, but install a bigger bolt in its place. Destroying the threads might not be a bad idea just to get you going.

Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Midwestdrifter (Chuck?),

Thanks for the suggestions. I'd probably start with the cobalt drill bit. I tried a titanium bit, but it had no affect on the stuck extractor tip. Since the extractor bit is stuck in there, do you think I should go with a right hand drill bit which might loosen it, then I could use the left hand bit on the bolt?

I also like the weld a number 10 screw on there. I've never welded though. Seems like I could rent a welder, not too expensive. Would this be too tricky of a welding job for a totally inexperienced welder (I've got to learn someday.)

Bill

Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

lndlyb4 said:

Midwestdrifter (Chuck?),

Thanks for the suggestions. I'd probably start with the cobalt drill bit. I tried a titanium bit, but it had no affect on the stuck extractor tip. Since the extractor bit is stuck in there, do you think I should go with a right hand drill bit which might loosen it, then I could use the left hand bit on the bolt?

I also like the weld a number 10 screw on there. I've never welded though. Seems like I could rent a welder, not too expensive. Would this be too tricky of a welding job for a totally inexperienced welder (I've got to learn someday.)

Bill

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Yes, too difficult for a newby. I would use left handed bits if you can find them. you might try MSC Industrial or Mc master-Carr

Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Thanks sikwan,
There seems to be enough space between the bolt hole and the extractor bit to get a very small drill bit in and cut into the bolt surrounding the extractor bit. I was going to try this next, but was afraid to mess up the threads in the hole. It seems from what you are saying, if I can't get a nut on the other side, I can still tap the hole. I think I would try this if I can't drill it out with the cobalt drill bit. Like I said, I'm trying not to created any more problems for myself.

Bill

Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Since I'm stranded here and would rather not wait for the mail. Can you buy a decent cobalt bit at Home Depot? Dewalts, etc. Walmart where I'm parked has Irwin brand. Will that work?

Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

lndlyb4 said:

Since I'm stranded here and would rather not wait for the mail. Can you buy a decent cobalt bit at Home Depot? Dewalts, etc. Walmart where I'm parked has Irwin brand. Will that work?

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You can give it a try. Go slow and use lube. Cobalt steel bits should be harder than normal High speed steel, which Is what the easy out is likely made of.

If there is a harbor freight near you they might have a left handed/extractor kit in the store.

Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Can you get a pointed grinding bit for a Dremel tool and grind a slot in the bolt? Then heat the aluminum boss around the bolt and let it cool. Do that a few times (heating and cooling) and use a screwdriver to loosen the bolt?

Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

lndlyb4 said:

Thanks sikwan,
It seems from what you are saying, if I can't get a nut on the other side, I can still tap the hole.

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Yes.

The first thing to do is to extract that broken bolt without damaging the threads. If damaging threads is a must, then try either a nut behind or a newly tapped hole. Anything to avoid prolonging your ordeal in the parking lot.

Which Walmart are you at? Maybe we can locate a Home Depot or Lowes that is close by or someone in the area might be able to help you.

Im at Walmart South Towne Parkway, virginia road and damonte parkway, south reno. walked a couple miles to H Depot and picked up some cobalt bits and another extractor. if i cant get the old extractor bit out with cobalt bits, will try to drill on side of the broken extractor tip into the bolt to try to loosen it that way. that will probably ruin the threads. then i would tap or drill through and put nut on back. I have been heating with blow torch and spraying with pb blaster. thought it might help. rain/snow today slowing me down. 1 week out of hospital for 4th stint in heart. Murphy been following me around.

Home Depot and Lowes are in the same area, which I think you already knew that. Not the best selection, but there is an O'Reily's near the Walmart. At least you're not stuck in the boonies. There are options for you.

Best of luck to you at getting that bolt out. Rain just went over the bay area and heading over to your area.

snow coming down pretty good now. Fired up my genny and Big Buddy heater. Waitin' it out.

I'm sure many on this forum are rooting for you as I am. It's always nerve racking when faced with sprinter problems, let alone when your on the road away from home. GOOD LUCK


Howboutcha-

That is a large bolt to break off. I do not think that heating and cooling will loosen it. It is probably due to the different metals. You must find a way to remove the broken extractor. Then you could as suggested carefully drill the bolt a little at a time. I can't see by the picture if the extractor is dead center or not. Can you try tapping the tip of the extractor sideways a little at a time to loosen it?

Thanks One Call