Just bought a 2012 Passenger, Do's and Don't

So finally we were able to find a van for our group and this being our first Diesel vehicle, I'd like to know the Do's and the Don't to keep the van running for as long as possible.

Its got 48K miles, 2500 170 Model with 15 seats.

The van will be primarily used for cross country travel for our group which on average is about 2K miles once a month or so.

Thanks

Fairly easy...

Do:
The required maintenance (oil, filter, fluids) per your manual.

Don't:
Drive it like you stole it

Do:
Enjoy the drive

Don't:
Forget to smell roses, etc.

Don't use the gas nozzle when filling up.

Good luck and enjoy

Make sure to feed it with right oil preferably not from Jiffy Lube.

haha, every time i get out of the van, i remind my self Diesel, even if im not filling it up.

How easy is it to do the oil change yourself. We just dropped off the van at a local mechanic who works on Sprinter to do an oil change, but obviously I cannot guarantee that he will use the proper oil. I've done countless oil change on vehicle and was wondering if the process is similar on the diesel engines. Do I need any special tools? I'm hoping to do it myself for next time.

Also is there a generally accepted Diesel Fuel additive that I can use to keep the internals clean?

Thanks!!

Oil changes on a Sprinter are about as easy as could be. The is a commonly available tool to remove the oil filter cap, and beyond that the only thing to be careful of is to install the oil cap o-rings properly. You can save a lot of money doing this simple job yourself, and it's also about the only way you can be sure the correct oil was used.

thanks, I think i will do the next oil change myself.

If the van is going to be parked for a month and not driven, is it a good idea to disconnect the batteries to avoid them going dead or will disconnecting the batteries lead to other problems when they are reconnected?

One month? Not really necessary to disconnect the battery.

nc3vseeker said:

We just dropped off the van at a local mechanic who works on Sprinter to do an oil change, but obviously I cannot guarantee that he will use the proper oil.

Click to expand...

I'd be finding a different mechanic.

Not to be all doom and gloom, but are you aware of how much a replacement engine costs (and apparently they are not rebuildable)? Those pesky emissions components- DPF in particular?

I'd be getting the correct oil and filter. Give them to your mechanic if he/she can't be bothered to source the correct stuff to do the job properly.

Disconnecting the battery is simply a matter of looking up by the accelerator pedal, nd removing the ground cable simply with the snap on clip provided. A month, I probably wouldn't bother.

Icarus

PS. Ditto in the oil...make sure it is correct! Changing is a breeze, especailly if you use an vacuum pump (oil extractor) as you don't even have to climb under the van, and (IMHO) it does a better job with no risk of stripping the drain plug. The filter is on top, and with a vacuum pump you can drain the cup or so from the filter housing as well. Make sure you use a new filter cap O ring, as well as the filter O rings.

Thanks for the info on Oil change. I will definitely do the next oil change myself.

So we recently went on 2600 mile trip during thanksgiving and the van drove great without any problems except for a CEL light that came after I filled up on diesel at a low key gas station early into our trip. Don't recall what brand the gas station was, but it had no marking as far as how much BioDiesel they used and if the Diesel was Ultra Low Sulfer. Then van drove without any issues, but the CEL remained on until we got to our destination.

I went to a local mechanic and he said it was a DEF system error code and he cleared it. I should have but I forgot to get the exact code from him. Can bad Diesel cause DEF problems or could this be related to the unknown Oil that the other mechanic might have used. or both?

I've read few posts on using fuel additives such as Redline 85+, but there doesn't seem to be an consensus on if they help or not. I am just curious if I have to stop at the generic Gas station to fill up, is there anything i can do to improve the Diesel ?

Also , should I go ahead and do the oil change myself now or would it be ok to just wait until the next oil change in 7000 miles?

nc3vseeker said:

Also , should I go ahead and do the oil change myself now or would it be ok to just wait until the next oil change in 7000 miles?

Click to expand...

Given that an oil change is <$200.00 and easily DIY as long as the drain pan is big enough... I would have changed the oil *immediately*.

An engine will set you back well into 4 figures, 5 figures for a crate engine and installation.

If your "mechanic" did not use low ash oil, you run the risk of plugging the DPF and probably damaging the DEF catalyst. The DPF may be salvageable, even in a brick oven, but the catalyst probably isn't. I'm sure that either of those parts is 4 figures plus installation and ECM coding.

If your "mechanic" is incapable of using the correct oil, I doubt that he/she is capable of any of those repairs.

You are being penny wise and pound foolish. Stepping over $20 bills to pick up pennies.

Change the oil now (and the filter, too).

Sprinters do have some quirks. Many are similar with both T1N and NCV3 models. Some T1N info is here.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23409

vic

danski0224 said:

Given that an oil change is <$200.00 and easily DIY as long as the drain pan is big enough... I would have changed the oil *immediately*.

An engine will set you back well into 4 figures, 5 figures for a crate engine and installation.

If your "mechanic" did not use low ash oil, you run the risk of plugging the DPF and probably damaging the DEF catalyst. The DPF may be salvageable, even in a brick oven, but the catalyst probably isn't. I'm sure that either of those parts is 4 figures plus installation and ECM coding.

If your "mechanic" is incapable of using the correct oil, I doubt that he/she is capable of any of those repairs.

You are being penny wise and pound foolish. Stepping over $20 bills to pick up pennies.

Change the oil now (and the filter, too).

Click to expand...

Point taken on the oil!! Is there an amazon link to which oil and filter we need to use. I've found few, but since this is my first time, i'd rather not take a chance and get eh wrong one.

I've searched for mb 229.51 Mobil-1 on amazon, but the descriptoin doesn't really state the 229.51.



Do you have any thoughts on diesel additives to clean up the fuel system?

If there is a Mercedes dealer close by, I'd just get the oil change stuff there. The receipts give proof of buying the right product. The cost, all things considered, isn't much more or different.

I find it entertaining to read about people trying to save a couple of bucks a quart of oil when the engine is like $10k... sort of like driving across town to save $0.04 on a gallon of diesel...

I would not trust listings or descriptions on the Amazon site for particulars.

Mobil 1 is a popular choice. I'd start at the manufacturer website and find the oil that meets the proper specs and get the product number and description. Mann is the likely OEM for the oil filter, so check over there. Once you have the part numbers and descriptions, then shop.

I'd be leery of any fuel system "clean up" stuff that doesn't have the blessings of Mother Mercedes. Check your owners manual. "Clean up" stuff shouldn't be needed. It must be labeled as compatible with low ash, DPF and low sulphur diesel engines. The only stuff I add to mine is cold flow improver (aka anti-gel).

If there are no records of the fuel filter being changed within the recommended interval, get that too and replace it.

Lots of fuel additives are snake oil. Buyer beware.

If money isn't an object...

danski0224 said:

...

I find it entertaining to read about people trying to save a couple of bucks a quart of oil when the engine is like $10k... sort of like driving across town to save $0.04 on a gallon of diesel...

...

Click to expand...

Paying more for the same product doesn't make it a better product. If you believe in the science of MB BEVO then why would you pay more for the proper spec oil? I watch for sales and deals and stockpile. A very worthwhile effort for some people.

The engines are very expensive to replace. Using good quality diesel engine oil which isn't MB approved does not guarantee failure any more than using only MB spec oil guarantees longevity.

I chuckle sometimes when a engine disaster failure gets a question of "Was proper MB oil used" with a reply of "always dealership serviced". No guarantee of longevity.

Not all good quality, appropriate for Sprinters diesel oil gets submitted for MB BEVO approval. Mother Mercedes requires a tribute from the oil companies for the privilege of being listed for their rather small market share sales in North American. Return of investment applies.

That said, if you have an NCV3 model look for the proper MB approval to be listed on the label.

vic

Aqua Puttana said:

If money isn't an object...


Paying more for the same product doesn't make it a better product. If you believe in the science of MB BEVO then why would you pay more for the proper spec oil? I watch for sales and deals and stockpile. A very worthwhile effort for some people.

The engines are very expensive to replace. Using good quality diesel engine oil which isn't MB approved does not guarantee failure any more than using only MB spec oil guarantees longevity.

I chuckle sometimes when a engine disaster failure gets a question of "Was proper MB oil used" with a reply of "always dealership serviced". No guarantee of longevity.

Not all good quality, appropriate for Sprinters diesel oil gets submitted for MB BEVO approval. Mother Mercedes requires a tribute from the oil companies for the privilege of being listed for their rather small market share sales in North American. Return of investment applies.

That said, if you have an NCV3 model look for the proper MB approval to be listed on the label.

vic

Click to expand...

While I do appreciate your added depth to the oil (conun)drum...

My reply was geared to someone that seems to be having a difficult time searching for the proper spec oil online.

Given the potential damage scenario, it would be far more expedient to go to the MB dealership (if one is nearby) and buy the supplies. At that point, you could be sure of obtaining the proper product. There are 4 Mercedes dealerships within a 40 minute drive around me (depending on traffic), and one of them is very aggressive in pursuing Sprinter service business. Others may not be as fortunate.

Once the correct oil is in the van, you would have at least 10,000 miles to search for a cheaper source of approved supplies.

nc3vseeker said:

Point taken on the oil!! Is there an amazon link to which oil and filter we need to use. I've found few, but since this is my first time, i'd rather not take a chance and get eh wrong one.

I've searched for mb 229.51 Mobil-1 on amazon, but the descriptoin doesn't really state the 229.51.



Do you have any thoughts on diesel additives to clean up the fuel system?

Click to expand...

This is what I buy for my 2012 and I do buy it from Amazon. Valvolne 966 does meet MB229.51
Testimonies of v6 sprinters going over 800,000 miles with this oil. I buy it from Napa when it goes on sale for 5.99 per quart but that is only once a year and was a couple months ago.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ue&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_28&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ue&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_65&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ue&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_43&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ue&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_45&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

The most common DEF error code for the Blue Tec V-6 seems to be the DEF tank heater failure. Not a big issue if your in a warm climate . You need to get the error codes and if it is the tank heater it should be covered under the emissions warranty.

As a newby myself in the Sprinter world, what brand of oil evacuation pump would the experienced owners suggest?