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View Full Version : Intermittent gauges... Temp dependent at that...


NetDoc
10-13-2015, 05:34 PM
I've had this problem since I've owned this vehicle. Sometimes, all the gauges simply go out on me. Then, when it either warms up or cools down, I get them back. It's kinda hinky. I just replaced the negative cables (Negative terminal to body, body to engine)with marine grade, so, I don't believe it's that. When I was up in High Springs a couple of weeks ago, the temps were way cooler than here in the Keys. Most often, they worked just fine, but not always. Now that I'm back in the Keys, they haven't come on until just this morning when I finished replacing the fuel filter and Fuel Pressure Sensor. I liked seeing all the lights come on (especially the glow plug light) and after about twenty seconds, they all went out again. My Scan gauge fills in a lot of information, but not how much gas I have left. I need that fuel gauge.

In the past, I've notice that if I disconnect/connect the two bulkhead connectors on the back of the gauge panel, I get them back for a while. Not today. I took apart every connector and put them back together several times in an effort to isolate which multi connector it might be. No joy. The gauges are DOA.

Anyone run into this? I'll be going back through the fuses under the seat and will probably clean up that box and replace all the fuses while I'm there. I already did that with the fuse box under the steering wheel and even re-soldered a few of those joints that looked bad. I'm going to look at the wiring diagrams and try to suss out which wire(s) bring in 12V and which provide a ground. With all the gauges going in or out, I think it has to be that fundamental. I do see the light on the odometer and that appears to work, but nothing else.

FWIW, it's almost fall here in the Keys. I almost don't sweat when I walk outside. Almost. :D

NetDoc
10-13-2015, 06:50 PM
I'm taking that fuse block #1 is under the steering wheel and fuse block #2 is under the seat?

NetDoc
10-13-2015, 07:01 PM
This is so frustrating... how do I delineate between C1 and C2. Which one is white???

NetDoc
10-13-2015, 07:56 PM
So far... My guess is that White is C2. It has both a brown and a black wire coming from it as the diagram shows.

I have checked for power at C2-3, C2-10, C2-15 using C2-6 as the ground. Everything came up 12+V. This confirms my suspicion that it's C2.

What am I missing? Do I need a instrument cluster???

NetDoc
10-15-2015, 12:01 PM
Sat and cogitated on this a bit. I put my cluster in the freezer over night, plugged it in and started the car. It worked for less than thirty minutes before all the gauges gave up the ghost again. While I had it out, I carefully looked over the circuitry to see if I could ID a cold solder joint or a hot spot, but it all looked clean. Cluster ordered and should be here on Monday. It's coming from a used Mercedes Parts dealer out of Ft Lauderdale. I might have to go up and look his place over.

Aqua Puttana
10-15-2015, 02:50 PM
Sat and cogitated on this a bit. I put my cluster in the freezer over night, plugged it in and started the car. It worked for less than thirty minutes before all the gauges gave up the ghost again. While I had it out, I carefully looked over the circuitry to see if I could ID a cold solder joint or a hot spot, but it all looked clean. Cluster ordered and should be here on Monday. It's coming from a used Mercedes Parts dealer out of Ft Lauderdale. I might have to go up and look his place over.
Interesting.

:thumbup::thumbup: for thinking to put it in the freezer as a troubleshooting method.

Sometimes components themselves can become temperature sensitive.

I believe that I read where a used IC Instrument Cluster needs to be introduced to the new vehicle. A search should verity that. If not, I don't recall any ill affects mentioned from just trying the donor part.

Do be aware that when a donor part module is installed it can bring DTC's related to the donor vehicle problems with it. The IC is a module in the truest sense in that it does communicate with other modules and provides information to them. So new DTC's showing up may not apply to your vehicle, but may be from the original.

Good luck. vic

NetDoc
10-15-2015, 07:06 PM
It's a trick I picked up during my stint as a Network Consultant. Putting a hard drive in the freezer sometimes allowed it to spin up so I could retrieve the data before I replaced it.

Thanks for the info on the cluster. I'm surprised to hear it stores the codes, although I know it saves the mileage. Is there somewhere that can reset all this?

NetDoc
10-15-2015, 08:19 PM
I hate when people don't keep their promises. They promised to have my used cluster here on Monday, but they goofed up and it came today! :D :D :D Yay!!!

So, everything works. More over, I have some additional lights here. One, I now have a check engine light. It had been removed on the previous cluster. I also see a light that looks like a rotating wheel as well as an ABS light and another one I can't remember. I'll take pictures in a bit and display. It's nice to have a working speedometer again and there are no stored codes.

Now the bad part: I've added an additional 115,000 miles and my Scan Gauge is acting really weird. It's only showing the top two lines of data, not four.

NetDoc
10-16-2015, 02:57 AM
As I promised:

http://www.scubaboard.com/gallery/data/500/medium/2015SprinerInstrumentCluster.jpg

See the bars on the lower line of the Scan Gauge? They won't come up for anything.

Also, what does "ESP" refer to??? I've got no clue... and the Rotating Tire icon all the way to the right is new for me as well.