08 , 144 sprinter, no boost, how to find codes with no reader?

jackpinesavag

New member
145k on truck. I've replaced the air charge hoses, there was a crack in the cold one. Truck has run well for 4 weeks since I did that. Now I have lost boost and get a noticeable exhaust sound from idle on up. RPM is limited and short shifting. Low power of course goes along.
My generic code reader just gives me a P2015 intake manifold runner position sensor/switch out of position, bank 1.
I removed the egr suspecting , hoping that was all it was. EGR was quite clean and moved freely. Cleaned it anyway and reinstalled. Still have the same issue.

Took the truck into a dealer paid for a scan to see what the code problems were before I changed the hoses. Presented me with a estimate for 2700$ to replace everything up to and including both intake manifolds. They did not give me a print out of the faults they fond with the scan tool. Anyone near Rockford Il with a reader or with a similar experience?
 

NBB

Well-known member
Start by typing that code into the search box here. Probably all you need to know.

You don't need those OEM codes to fix your vehicle, IMO. The OBD ones you got from a basic reader and the ability to clear them coupled with the info on this forum should get you pretty far.

I would have had a fit at the dealer to pay for a diagnostic and not get...the diagnostic. I wouldn't have paid, keys back please.
 

jackpinesavag

New member
What does the tuning do to the swirl valves? hold them open permanently? EGR has not been an issue, its clean and working freely. I think the swirl valves are stuck only, not broken. Sometimes they do actually reset
 

smiller

2008 View J (2007 NCV3 3500)
A GDE tune will disable the EKAS (swirl valve) system and leaves the ports open at all times, and will ignore any codes generated by sticking valves. Also note that your swirl valve issue may be caused all or in part by EGR. Over periods of time EGR soot can combine with PCV gasses and create deposits in the intake system which can cause swirl valves to hang up. If this happens you will get a positioner error code and... well, you know the rest.
 
2008 Dodge Sprinter 2500, turbo 6, 112,000 miles

P2015 usually means stuck swirl valves, not fuel rail pressure. This is a common problem on Sprinters that sit for days or weeks between driving.

Fixed stuck swirl valves by injecting 90%diesel/10%Sea Foam Detergent into turbo intake, while driving. Inject through a squirt bottle (on dash board), fuel hose run through the firewall, and needle valve (normally for inflating basketballs) into black air intake hose just before the turbo. Punch a small hole with a nail and push in the needle, then secure it permanently. Squirt about one table spoon every five miles while driving for six weeks.

In the mean time, manually un-jam the swirl valve's by grabbing the linkage with a long metal hook, gently rocking free. Use a common wood paint stirring stick to lever push the linkage also. You'll need a bright flashlight to see. Manually exercise the valves full through, then insert key and start engine. (You may have to warm the engine first to loosen the sludge in the intake manifolds before the manual unjamming.) Van will run in normal mode (not limp mode) and after a few days, the check engine light will shut off. YOU WILL HAVE TO MANUALLY UN-JAM THE SWIRL VALVES A FEW TIMES BEFORE THE DIESEL/SEA FOAM SOLUTION BEGINS TO WORK. Then it is just an occasional squirt every 100 -300 miles or so the rest of the life of the van. THERE IS NO NEED TO REPLACE YOUR INTAKE MANIFOLDS. Dodge diesel mechanic says this will not do any damage to your Sprinter. It worked on my Sprinter.

Todd from Wisconsin, USA
 

jackpinesavag

New member
Thank you all for your suggestions. This is a daily driver, 150 to 250 miles every day. The EGR had a bit of soot dust on it but very clean IMHO. The swirl valve link worked freely and properly i think. after about a minute of running, a different sound could be heard from the exhaust. I had unplugged the egr so it couldn't shift to open. The error code was bank one position sensor out of range. I guess that meant the ecm couldn't tell where the valve linkage was so would default to limp home.
I gambled a little and installed the green diesel tune. The install took a bit of time waiting for the file transfers from Green Diesel support. When i go the modified file, it took me 5 minutes to flash my ecm.
I have no more issues with no boost. Fuel usage doesn't seem to have changed. The torque band seems to have gotten lower and wider. Power for passing and merging onto interstate is very noticeably improved. If i am going 50 on a ramp, I can push the pedal down and get up to 70 without any downshifting very easily.
Apart form the disabling of the epa mandated stuff I am comfortable and very satisfied with the results of this "tune"
 

japper

New member
Or spend $700 at GDE and never have a problem with EGR or swirl valves again.
That's not all, you still need to remove the manifolds and remove the seized up butterflies.
One of my customers was in limp mode due to left side seized shut and right side seized open, he couldn't afford the near $3000 intake manifolds replacement. So we disabled the EKAS only until he can afford the 10 hour procedure to remove the flaps. Overall he will save $1000 and finally enjoy full potential and reliability of this otherwise great engine (with our tune that we threw in).
 

smiller

2008 View J (2007 NCV3 3500)
That's not all, you still need to remove the manifolds and remove the seized up butterflies.
That is true, if it has gotten far enough to seize up. A good reason to not wait until it happens to install the tune.
 

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