SprinterHelp
2005 Dudge Sprinter 144
How much for partial trans fluid change in 2007. Finding the thread with keywords not working.
its like searching an abandoned mine for convertef tranny fluid capacity
- Thread starter SprinterHelp
- Start date
It can vary as to how patient you are for draining. Measure what you take out and replace that amount. 8 quarts on hand should be enough for a typical TC and pan drain. Have 9 on hand for filter change and extra long drain interval.
I noticed the other day that the transmission dip sticks are around 20 bucks with shipping at Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Mercedes-722-...r=8-1&keywords=sprinter+transmission+dipstick
vic
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SprinterHelp
2005 Dudge Sprinter 144
I am not draini.g converter.
sailquik
Well-known member
SprinterHelp,
So, is your question "What is the fluid capacity of the torque converter" or "What is the fluid capacity of the torque converter AND the 5G-Tronic/NAG-1 transmission"?
Try this:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2557&highlight=trans+fluid
Looks like the Trans capacity is right around 5.5 quarts (5.2 liters and the torque convertor capacity is right around 2.5 quarts (2.36 liters).
Best to put in 7-7.5 quarts if you drained both, then run it around a bit and add the additional fluid to bring the level up to at least mid line on the transmission dipstick when at full operating temperature in Park, engine running.
If you only drain the transmission, drop the pan, and change the filter, put in 4 quarts, run it until it reaches full operating temp and
add whatever it takes to bring the level up to the correct level on the dipstick.
Hope this helps,
Roger
So, is your question "What is the fluid capacity of the torque converter" or "What is the fluid capacity of the torque converter AND the 5G-Tronic/NAG-1 transmission"?
Try this:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2557&highlight=trans+fluid
Looks like the Trans capacity is right around 5.5 quarts (5.2 liters and the torque convertor capacity is right around 2.5 quarts (2.36 liters).
Best to put in 7-7.5 quarts if you drained both, then run it around a bit and add the additional fluid to bring the level up to at least mid line on the transmission dipstick when at full operating temperature in Park, engine running.
If you only drain the transmission, drop the pan, and change the filter, put in 4 quarts, run it until it reaches full operating temp and
add whatever it takes to bring the level up to the correct level on the dipstick.
Hope this helps,
Roger
SprinterHelp
2005 Dudge Sprinter 144
I am not draini.g converter. 2008 2500
SprinterHelp
2005 Dudge Sprinter 144
I drained pan only, three quarts came out. tranny was whining
It appears you were running it a bit low on fluid. How did the stuff in the pan look?
SprinterHelp
2005 Dudge Sprinter 144
Clear, straw colored, did not appear burnt, dirty or degraded. At highway speeds getting slight surge every few se onds, more noticible, profound with speed. added 3.5 quarts lucas multi synth trans fluid. Almost all pulsing stopped whine dissapating significantly. waiting for capacity info so i dont overfill. Think I am still low as on inclines still have intermittant pulse with rumble strip noise. Before drain rumble strip noise at many times but not at high speed like now, allthough almost non existant. so partial drain, refill , 3.5 quarts, do I need more?
SprinterHelp
2005 Dudge Sprinter 144
Two more quarts?
SprinterHelp
2005 Dudge Sprinter 144
Just a pan change of 4 quarts of lucas with the rating ending in 10. Just drove 600 miles since fill. once warmed uo NOW more issues, no more intermittant high speed rumble or slightly surging rpm needle. .but have major clunk between 1-2 and maybe 2-3. Checked drive shaft and hanger, rear diff fluid all tight. Does not happenvall the time, will check with dipstick at house. Any input? This is scary loud clunk with hesitation like missing gear, i dont know. Once I am up to spped all fine.
SprinterHelp
2005 Dudge Sprinter 144
Oh to add it had a almost u.otticable clunk before. checked diff was half full. filled and dissappeared, diff was not making any whining noise like tranny. tranny whine now has dissapated about 75%. Almost like a loose motor mount. it did.. the clunk was noticed after last half quart of trans flyid was added before leaving today. not sure if its related. just filled tank will go thru some motions to see what provokes it.
SprinterHelp
2005 Dudge Sprinter 144
Noticed clunk made when starting from stop or near stop turning right on uneven surface. like from truck stop exit where road is all tore up. one time appeared to clunk from 2-3 as well. I may have hesitated and it zhifted back to first.
SprinterHelp
2005 Dudge Sprinter 144
Yes I trusted the last two sprinter dealers near Ohare and they lied thru their teeth on checking the vehicle. I am breaking out my dipstick for my 2004 sprinter, will this work on my 2007, what is the correct length schematic for my 2007 in relation to 2004 dipstick. I am very sad to say I drove 1400 miles with about 3 quarts low. Got a truck from gmotorcars in febuary, 2006 158 with 94kmiles, pulled the air filter after driving and getting sluggish acceleration, low turbo map and high lod. Air filter imploded from being incapable to pass air, 1 inch of pure beach sand running thru system unhindered. DO NOT BUY FROM THESE PEOPLE, THEY SPENT NOTHING ON THE VEHICLE FROM AUCTION. Oh yes it was Florida beach sand, advertised rust free except for the 3 inch holes i discovered after purchase. OIL was sooo thick It would not drip of the stick...seriously. Anyone have specs for 2007 dipstick, my 2004 is made from lowes drain snake coil cable. Need to check immediatly to get back to work or been screwed twice in as many months by dealers selling lies.
sailquik
Well-known member
SprinterHelp,
All 5G-Tronic/NAG-1 MB Sprinter transmissions take the same dipstick.
The length is non-critical.....the plastic measuring scale on the end of the coiled spring wire shaft is the actual measuring
device.
Notice the diamond shape at the top of the scale.
The "ears" on that diamond shape engage a tapered ring in the transmission casting (in the bored hole where the dipstick
tube is pressed in).
The fluid level is measured by the plastic scale when the "ears" stop the dipstick from going further into the transmission
pan.
The level is NOT measured from the bottom of the trans pan.
The fluid level is to be measured with the engine and transmission up to full operating temp.
Notice the scale being marked with a temp spec.
So, without the factory transmission dipstick, or a well made aftermarket facsimile, you cannot
really measure the fluid level.
Hope this helps,
Roger
All 5G-Tronic/NAG-1 MB Sprinter transmissions take the same dipstick.
The length is non-critical.....the plastic measuring scale on the end of the coiled spring wire shaft is the actual measuring
device.
Notice the diamond shape at the top of the scale.
The "ears" on that diamond shape engage a tapered ring in the transmission casting (in the bored hole where the dipstick
tube is pressed in).
The fluid level is measured by the plastic scale when the "ears" stop the dipstick from going further into the transmission
pan.
The level is NOT measured from the bottom of the trans pan.
The fluid level is to be measured with the engine and transmission up to full operating temp.
Notice the scale being marked with a temp spec.
So, without the factory transmission dipstick, or a well made aftermarket facsimile, you cannot
really measure the fluid level.
Hope this helps,
Roger
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SprinterHelp
2005 Dudge Sprinter 144
2007 Sprinter 2500 144
OK the rezults are in. engine temp 190, dipstick stops at 45 inch mark, tranny fluid just reaches the top of the three inch mark of the end of the stick. In my T1 I was happy if it was at the midway of the three inch mark. So I am overfilled a little, is this enough to cause the i.termittant drop out clunk betwn 1-3 and rumble strip when applying acceleration significantly over driving with a light foot? I think the 1400 or more driven with three quarts low before I bought has obviously created some damage. Input? Any significant factors to look for indicating total failure or on the lighter side people with same problems driving for years like this as I have read. thank you for all your replys. Have not dropped pan as of yet.
OK the rezults are in. engine temp 190, dipstick stops at 45 inch mark, tranny fluid just reaches the top of the three inch mark of the end of the stick. In my T1 I was happy if it was at the midway of the three inch mark. So I am overfilled a little, is this enough to cause the i.termittant drop out clunk betwn 1-3 and rumble strip when applying acceleration significantly over driving with a light foot? I think the 1400 or more driven with three quarts low before I bought has obviously created some damage. Input? Any significant factors to look for indicating total failure or on the lighter side people with same problems driving for years like this as I have read. thank you for all your replys. Have not dropped pan as of yet.
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lindenengineering
Well-known member
Your questions about clunk (shift quality) and what you call rumble strip vibration can be determined by looking at clutch pack filling times and the wave form signal coming off the lock up clutch. That is of course if other outside potential issues which can cause the same have been eliminated.,
Remember the suction filter determines in all auto transmissions the rate of fluid flow filling times (measured in fractions of a second) into the valve body and clutch packs. Filling delay or aeration for that matter will cause shifting comfort to be affected.
Always take into account with two speed sensors on the circuit board which in turn translate clutch pack speed to the TCM. Performance obviously will be affected if contamination is present on the perception heads, so this must always be taken into account when trying to eliminate transmission shift problems.
I see from your testimony that there is reference to LUCAS????
Are you referring to Lucas oil additives?
I stress a caution here if that is so!
Generally the trade even after market transmission parts suppliers like Trans Star Industries and Sonnek frown on using non Shell spec AT fluid for the NAG1 transmission.
Frankly I would be inclined from your text to recommend the valve body be dropped fully servicing the unit, possibly changing the circuit board and comms socket, but paying particular attention to the lock up clutch solenoid. That is the rascal on the left side of the set at the front viewing from the top side of the valve block. To level the playing field repair success game err toward using the manufacturers' specified fluid.
Now I will state this again looking at your testimony that you bought a van that was wholesaled.
I am frankly scratching my head as you why I see so many Sprinter owners limp into my shop having recently purchased a used van without having it expertly checked over.
All I can say is that you can inherit some expensive problems if you are not careful. These potential expensive problem are often overlooked by casual over checks at a purchase point that in turn in to service nightmares for its new owners.
Buyer beware please
Dennis
Remember the suction filter determines in all auto transmissions the rate of fluid flow filling times (measured in fractions of a second) into the valve body and clutch packs. Filling delay or aeration for that matter will cause shifting comfort to be affected.
Always take into account with two speed sensors on the circuit board which in turn translate clutch pack speed to the TCM. Performance obviously will be affected if contamination is present on the perception heads, so this must always be taken into account when trying to eliminate transmission shift problems.
I see from your testimony that there is reference to LUCAS????
Are you referring to Lucas oil additives?
I stress a caution here if that is so!
Generally the trade even after market transmission parts suppliers like Trans Star Industries and Sonnek frown on using non Shell spec AT fluid for the NAG1 transmission.
Frankly I would be inclined from your text to recommend the valve body be dropped fully servicing the unit, possibly changing the circuit board and comms socket, but paying particular attention to the lock up clutch solenoid. That is the rascal on the left side of the set at the front viewing from the top side of the valve block. To level the playing field repair success game err toward using the manufacturers' specified fluid.
Now I will state this again looking at your testimony that you bought a van that was wholesaled.
I am frankly scratching my head as you why I see so many Sprinter owners limp into my shop having recently purchased a used van without having it expertly checked over.
All I can say is that you can inherit some expensive problems if you are not careful. These potential expensive problem are often overlooked by casual over checks at a purchase point that in turn in to service nightmares for its new owners.
Buyer beware please
Dennis