totaled sprinter worth?

I was rear ended last week by a VW. The insurance company said it is a total loss. It's a 06 118 low roof with 246000 miles. The body has the usual rust spots. I'm trying to find an accurate price but am not sure where to start. I can't find it on Kelley blue book. Does anyone know where to find used car values on these?

Ask the insurance company what the buy back price is and there is your answer....

Tooth Fairy said:

Ask the insurance company what the buy back price is and there is your answer....

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Great idea, I'm sure the insurance company won't try to screw me. That's the salvage price anyway. I'm looking for pricing before it was in the accident. Anyone have a GOOD idea.

Calculate the parts value, including Labor to remove then maybe figure 50%? I would guess the undamaged van, with the rust and the miles might whve been worth $10$15k tops. Perhaps $5 as salvage?

Icarus

If you want the actual value of the van, you would need to try to dig into Ebay, autotrader, or Craigslist to find some like sails (or the forum). You have a sought after model, so it will be hard to peg. They will struggle to find a value for you, so you need to have ammo to get them to up the offer. Had to go through this in '09 when mine was totaled.

Chris

Here's examples of UK prices , seem to be cheaper than US ;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2005-55-R...-PX-WELCOME-/151772723656?hash=item23565bf9c8
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2007-07-R...D-NEW-SHAPE-/151705683887?hash=item23525d07af
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-...2006-56-Reg-/252047692713?hash=item3aaf3693a9
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2006-MERC...WORK-NO-VAT-/231649261687?hash=item35ef5f3877
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2006-MERC...B-HIGH-ROOF-/291547325276?hash=item43e193235c
Wasn't sure which year model you had , 2006 was the change-over year here in UK.

Rusty with high miles. I would say $8-9K tops.

Isn't the point to try to find examples which are priced high to get maximum coverage? You're trying to inflate the value, so eBay and cl are not ideal. Start calling sprinter Indy shops and see what they have for sale and for how much.

Finding good (high) comps is tough.

I actually think CL can be a very good place for comps if you can go through some of the archives and search all around your state. I have noticed great spec/price items get purchased immediately, and the overpriced stuff will sit for month(s) and get reposted. (Example: there's a guy on CL right now trying to sell a 2006 Sportsmobile RV for $58500, when a 2015 can be had for under $88000!). That's the posting you want to find to get a better cash out.

Also, do not forget LOSS OF USE. Request LOSS OF USE from the insurance company immediately. Different states handle loss of use differently. In California, it is the rental cost to replace the item while it is no longer available to you.

For my old motorcycle (1980 Honda cx500) years ago, I found a guy who wanted to sell his old motorcycle for $1000 more than the insurance company wanted to give me (less than $800), and I requested loss of use. I ended up getting paid about as much in loss of use as they paid to total the motorcycle because insurance companies take forever to finish a claim.

Edmunds seems to think $5000 is fair.

http://www.edmunds.com/dodge/sprinter-cargo/2006/tmv-appraise-results.html


also, buyback is rarely a screwjob. you are competing with what they think salvage yards will pay, and yards don't pay jack. plus, selling to you gets it out of their hair, and saves them the hassle of dealing with the auction and paying those fees.

I've bought back every car I've ever had totaled.

The value in the totaled sprinter is in the rear axle, transmission, engine, and wiring harness if they did not get damaged in the crash. If the impact was bad enough to push the axle forward it may have caused damaged to the drive line but odds are the engine is ok. If the engine is healthy thats worth $3-4k.

other things of value are doors and the hood if they are straight and rust free. I need to replace the hood on my truck and all my doors have some level of corrosion on them...If I can find a decent set of used doors and the price is right then its likely more cost effective to buy the door vs the cost of repairing the old ones.

psychoboy said:

Edmunds seems to think $5000 is fair.

http://www.edmunds.com/dodge/sprinter-cargo/2006/tmv-appraise-results.html


also, buyback is rarely a screwjob. you are competing with what they think salvage yards will pay, and yards don't pay jack. plus, selling to you gets it out of their hair, and saves them the hassle of dealing with the auction and paying those fees.

I've bought back every car I've ever had totaled.

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I've bought back every car I've ever had totaled.


Perhaps you might want to consider some higher hanging fruits....


...like not totaling your cars?








.

A question that probably needs to be asked...are you looking for what price they ought to pay you for your totaled van, in which case you won't the highest price, are are you asking what you should pay to buy back the salvage?

Icarus

OrioN said:

I've bought back every car I've ever had totaled.


Perhaps you might want to consider some higher hanging fruits....


...like not totaling your cars?
.

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I can't easily prevent drunk and/or stupid people from running into me or stealing my car.

I /could/ own cars that are valuable enough to not easily total, but if they are going to keep getting run into or stolen, I don't really see the point. my car money goes into my show cars, race cars, toys, and tow rigs, not my daily drivers.

As a pretty decent mechanic and sheet metal worker, I can fix most cars well enough to keep being my daily driver, and if I can't fix them, they become really cheap donors for whatever projects I'm working on.

stolen and recovered, running, driving CRX with a low-mileage engine swap for $88 and a $3500 check? sold.
rear ended, running, driving prelude with several mods for flat towing other cars for $250 and a $3000 check? sold.
front ended low mileage first gen crv AWD M/T for $500 and a $5600 check? sold.
my suburban collected two different $4000 checks and was bought back for less than $300 both times.
my Nissan pickup collected three checks ($3500, $2500, and $2000) and was bought back for less than $300 each time (front sheet metal and beds are expensive when the other guy's insurance buys them)




Perhaps you might want to consider sticking to subjects that you know something about....


....not that I can think of any.

icarus said:

A question that probably needs to be asked...are you looking for what price they ought to pay you for your totaled van, in which case you won't the highest price, are are you asking what you should pay to buy back the salvage?

Icarus

Click to expand...

Kmoderndesign said:

Great idea, I'm sure the insurance company won't try to screw me. That's the salvage price anyway. I'm looking for pricing before it was in the accident. Anyone have a GOOD idea.

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I went with "pricing before it was in the accident," which my Edmunds link attempts to provide. it's the only place I can find that offers NADA-esque prices for used sprinters.

psychoboy said:

I can't easily prevent drunk and/or stupid people from running into me or stealing my car.

I /could/ own cars that are valuable enough to not easily total, but if they are going to keep getting run into or stolen, I don't really see the point. my car money goes into my show cars, race cars, toys, and tow rigs, not my daily drivers.

As a pretty decent mechanic and sheet metal worker, I can fix most cars well enough to keep being my daily driver, and if I can't fix them, they become really cheap donors for whatever projects I'm working on.

stolen and recovered, running, driving CRX with a low-mileage engine swap for $88 and a $3500 check? sold.
rear ended, running, driving prelude with several mods for flat towing other cars for $250 and a $3000 check? sold.
front ended low mileage first gen crv AWD M/T for $500 and a $5600 check? sold.
my suburban collected two different $4000 checks and was bought back for less than $300 both times.
my Nissan pickup collected three checks ($3500, $2500, and $2000) and was bought back for less than $300 each time (front sheet metal and beds are expensive when the other guy's insurance buys them)




Perhaps you might want to consider sticking to subjects that you know something about....


....not that I can think of any.

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Let me help you then...


...what I know is this, I have probably live longer than you, but found a way not to expose my vehicles to the same risks or elements that seem you to be attracted, and repetitively. Like, never.

Would you like know how I achieved this? Or better yet, you could ponder on your own as to why this occurs.




.

Good defensive driving (drive a motorcycle for a while) can prevent a whole host (but no all accidents. Paying attention to what's behind you is more important than you realize. I was forced to stop short at a traffic situation once, where I probably could have stopped, I hit the shoulder to make sure and the car behind me hit the car in front of me.

Not meaning to indicting the finger at anyone, but there are lots of ways to avoid all kinds of accidents. I have been diving for a long time, nad have several million miles, including some OTR and local trucking. I have seen scores of accidents including some very bad ones. Drivers first reaction to a situation is invariably to hit the brakes, when in many cases that would do no good. Evasive action is often times a better choice, and as they taught us in drivers Ed so many years ago, leave yourself an out...but you have to be aware All the time where that out is, especially in traffic. The worst close call I ever had was a fully loaded tractor trailer crossed the median, I was albie to hit the left shoulder and partial ditch to clear the last of the trailer and stay on the road. he it two other cars, one fatally. Milliseconds earlier or later it could have been me.

I'm not trying to claim that I am the best driver, and quite frankly I have been lucky a number of times, but good skills and good habits help the odds. I did total a VW bus early on, on an empty freeway at 4 in the morning. A drunk hit me after skidding 152' before he hit me. My fault in this accident was I was driving much slower than normal (~45mph in a 55 limit) due to a mechanical issue with the van. The lesson I learned frotht experience was to pay attention to who was behind me, AND if I was slower than the bulk of the traffic, use the four ways and prepare to hit the shoulder. Other than that the only damage I have ever done to a car was backing into my 911 Porsche in my own driveway with my truck! (my niece on the other hand totaled three cars before she past 21! Her poor parents insurance must he been a killer!

Be safe out there.

Icarus

PS. And touch wood, accidents can happen anytime.

PPS. I forgot the deer I hit with the Sprinter. Leaped out of the ditch from nowhere, $24k damage to the Sprinter. I knew there were deer out there, near sunset, I should have slowed down!

OrioN said:

Let me help you then...


...what I know is this, I have probably live longer than you, but found a way not to expose my vehicles to the same risks or elements that seem you to be attracted, and repetitively. Like, never.

Would you like know how I achieved this? Or better yet, you could ponder on your own as to why this occurs.




.

Click to expand...

gee, dad, thanks for the insight.

congratulations on your perfection.

meanwhile, I've made a fair amount of money getting just far enough out of the way to avoid injury, but not quite far enough to keep from collecting a decent payout on a nearly worthless car.

I'm one who believes stupidity should be costly. and...for those who stupidly drive into me, it is.

The 98 year old woman who runs a light and pulls out in front of me is getting hit. I wisely choose to hit her somewhere other than driver's door, but I make sure her family will seriously consider letting her get another car.

The teenager who changes lanes without looking isn't going to scare me out of my lane, and he's going to get to explain to dad why the whole side of the car is screwed up.

The drunk that blew a stop sign in front of my wife probably would have run had the impact not crammed his front wheel into the inner structure. as it was, the cops had no problem arresting him.

the redneck that was busy choking on his chaw or something when he failed to notice that I was stopped for a turn (and had been...waiting for a break in traffic). I heard and saw him coming, I was ready for the impact, I'd let off the brake and unwound the wheel so he wouldn't push me into oncoming traffic. I got broken taillights and a scratched trunk lit, my receiver hitch wiped out his radiator. I drove away from the accident, he did not.

CRXs just get stolen....which is why I actually had full coverage on that car.


again, I usually drive older cars that are generally worth $2500 or less. Those get really easy to total, even if its all superficial damage.

Well it's all said and done. I collected 8900 and bought it back for1000. It took a couple days of haggling. There original offer was 6100 and a 5000 buy back. I hung up on them on that call. Considering I bought the van 4 months ago for 750.00 and put a total of 100 bucks into it, I'm pretty happy with the outcome. Next is fab a new rear bumper and spare tire holder, and replace the cracked tail light. How do you post pictures on here?

Not a bad deal all the way around.

Icarus