Has anyone converted to electric cooling fans?

GaryJ

Here since 2006
If you came up with a way to have the already present electric fan in front of the radiator come on any time the temperature went over say 200 F or it could be turned on manually, the engine driven fan may engage rarely or not at all. That way the viscous engine fan could stay there as the ultimate backup, usually engaging arout 210-215 F.

Gary
 

sailquik

Well-known member
haydn28,
Are you going to simply remove the fan, or the serpentine belt that drives the fan.
You could probably remove the fan, but then you would lack the ability to really cool the
engine when it needs it most which is when the engine coolant temp has increased to the
point that the viscous clutch kicks in and makes the big engine driven fan pull lots of air
through your radiator/intercooler (CAC)/ and AC condenser.
If you remove the serpentine belt, you would have no water pump, no alternator, and no AC
compressor.
That would not work at all.
Why do you want to do this?
The schedule at which the current viscous clutch fan and the smaller electric fan (s) come on/shut off
seems very well thought out to me.
Roger
 

Rock Doc

Active member
My advice would be to take GaryJ's recommendation. I've never seen an electric fan that can come close to moving as much air as an engine-driven fan is able to. When it gets really hot, you really need (not just want) that engine-driven fan to move as much air as possible. You will see exclusively electric fans in front-wheel drive cars and in vehicles that have small engines and thus lower total heat generation, but for larger engines that can generate a lot of heat (because of burning a lot of fuel) you'll see engine-driven fans. For example, diesel-pusher motor homes with side radiators utilize hydraulic-driven fans, not electric.

I suspect you are trying to reduce mechanical power drainage on the engine by going to electric, thus to have more deliverable power to your drivetrain. However, to some degree this is a zero-sum game by the laws of thermodynamics. It will take a certain amount of energy to make a fan move a certain amount of air, and there's only so much electrical power you're going to be able to get from the alternator (which also imposes power drag on the engine to turn it) to drive an electric fan. When you cross that threshold, the engine driven fan becomes more efficient than the electric.

Thus, in a situation like our Sprinters, where it takes a lot of energy (and thus heat generation) to move a heavy vehicle, it will be more efficient to utilize the mechanical fan. The viscous clutch is used so the fan isn't taking power 100% of the time, and will be activated and take engine power only when needed. It's actually a good and proven system.

Rock Doc
 

morre

New member
other day i was working on merc m275 engine, v12 twin turbo 5.5L and OMG it doesn't have mechanical fan. because it doesn't need one. electrical fan is cable of doing all the work just fine. and lately i don't remember seeing any Mercedes vehicles with mechanical fans at all. its a thing from a past. 2005 W211 with OM648 doesn't have mech fan, why sprinter needs it. its like a hydraulic power steering, it should be abolished already, together with belt driven water pumps.
Because its cheap to manufacture and because its going to fail, so parts will be sold, win win for manufacturer.
i would love to get rid of mech fan as well.
 

haydn28

New member
I'm just removing the fan and fan clutch. During the summer here in Texas driving with the ac on loaded on road trips its hard to driving without the fan clutch kicking in. When the clutch is engaged it cuts about 3 mpg. A good dual fan setup should cool enough, I was just wondering if anyone had done it yet.
 

f5hunter

2006 158 SHC 2500 GDE
I too would like to remove the mechanical fan for the added efficiency. It may be minor,but that parasitic drag on a non-engaged clutch amounts to some energy loss that is not required for the majority of my driving conditions. I did this to my Jeep CRD and have yet to have any overheating issues so far this summer, air conditioning is working fine. What coolant temp does the electric fan for the AC turn on?

I need to replace the viscous clutch on mine as I am certain it does not engage when hot. A drive to CA thru Las Vegas in 110 degrees and long grades caused my van to get quite hot and I never heard the fan engage. This is the only time I have ever had an overheating problem. I want to be able to quickly install a functioning clutched mechanical fan in case I need it.
 

GaryJ

Here since 2006
f5hunter,
My understanding is that the T1N cooling fan is turned by a pressure sensor in the air conditioning circuit, or by engine temperature as I've seen with my motorhome up around 220F.

I'd still like to see someone with more electronics savy than me come up with a manual switch to turn it on at the bottom of a long grade or at about 200F. This would eliminate the engine fan from coming on except in a worst case situation. If you were towing for example, you'd really want that engine fan to come on since the transmission fluid is cooled in the radiator and runs close to engine temperature.

Gary
 

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