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View Full Version : Very close to lighting my T1N on FIRE!!!!


shop102
05-09-2015, 09:32 PM
Bought a 2003 a month ago. I knew it had issues and was prepared to fix those issues. Heres what has been done...

New air filter
Oil change and filter
new injector in #1
new copper washers in all 5 with hold down bolts
new EGR
new thermostat
cleaned MAF sensor
new MAP (boost) sensor
new battery


I have also looked into the actuator arm and vacuum actuator under turbo....all work and greased. Have checked vacuum lines for leaks, have also ran engine scan with no avail.

Heres the problem......

When I initially took the turbo off for inspection....i accidentally had the vacuum line from the brake booster to the Y fitting come off at the brake booster. Not knowing any better...i put a vacuum cap on it and it runs GREAT. Im thing awesome...problem solved. It would occasionally go into a LHM but there is no codes AND as soon as I turn it off and start it back....good to go. Wanting to stop it from going in and out of what I think is LHM, i took it to a friend and he immediately sees the vacuum line off and re installs. It stumbles....falls on its face. Unplug and put a cap on....runs great. WHAT IS HAPPENING!!!! Im not an idiot and mechanical things come quite naturally. But never having had a diesel or a turbo for that matter....im at my wits end. If someone out there wants to help out....Im all ears. You can call me at 678-756-576six so I can get this problem solved. I have a motorcycle event to do next weekend, and seeing how this is my main transpo....i need to get it resolved ASAP.

Thanks

Chad

NORTON
05-10-2015, 06:15 AM
From that "Y" junction the vacuum line goes to the recirculating door actuator alongside of the battery, check the condition of the rubber hoses and also the diaphragm on the actuator as well as the plastic pipe that runs along the firewall
Any leaks in the vacuum lines will create these symptoms.
murray

lindenengineering
05-10-2015, 03:17 PM
From that "Y" junction the vacuum line goes to the recirculating door actuator alongside of the battery, check the condition of the rubber hoses and also the diaphragm on the actuator as well as the plastic pipe that runs along the firewall
Any leaks in the vacuum lines will create these symptoms.
murray

Murray Good Post.:thumbup:
Just like to add that the wiring to the boost vacuum solenoid must not be over looked .
Connected by a fine two pin socket the wires one brown the other white are connected to the PCM (off the top of my head 3rd PCM socket, pins 42 & 43)

White has a control voltage of 3.3 volts KOEO, and brown is a constant 12v KOEO & KOER.
Due to corrosion the male pins on the boost solenoid get corrupted and the 18 gauge wires in the harness running long the front chassis X member get damaged in a collision or by clumsy radiator etc installs.
Therefore a continuity and resistance check should always be carried out if there is intermittent or infrequent operation of the system and there is a suspicion of an electrical fault causing the problem. Often fractured wiring just above the socket is a favorite discovery on high mileage vans.
Dennis

surlyoldbill
05-10-2015, 03:33 PM
Murray Good Post.:thumbup:
Just like to add that the wiring to the boost vacuum solenoid must not be over looked .
Connected by a fine two pin socket the wires one brown the other white are connected to the PCM (off the top of my head 3rd PCM socket, pins 42 & 43)

White has a control voltage of 3.3 volts KOEO, and brown is a constant 12v KOEO & KOER.
Due to corrosion the male pins on the boost solenoid get corrupted and the 18 gauge wires in the harness running long the front chassis X member get damaged in a collision or by clumsy radiator etc installs.
Therefore a continuity and resistance check should always be carried out if there is intermittent or infrequent operation of the system and there is a suspicion of an electrical fault causing the problem. Often fractured wiring just above the socket is a favorite discovery on high mileage vans.
Dennis

Thanks Dennis! I'll have to check mine to see if that's my issue with turbo sometimes not working when I start it later in the day, but a quick restart always results in it working perfectly.

shop102
05-10-2015, 06:16 PM
That could explain a lot....the guys who had it before me put in a new radiator. These were the same guys that put 11 qt. of oil in it too:thumbdown:

shop102
05-11-2015, 02:28 AM
Both connections checked out. Going to start looking at maf

pacman_34
05-11-2015, 02:58 AM
unplug maf and see if it runs better

NORTON
05-12-2015, 11:43 AM
Probably a silly question as I'm sure you would know if the Vacuum assist for the brakes was functioning properly, re-reading your post the vacuum line was disconnected from the brake booster which caused the problems but when capped off went OK ,
If the diaphragm in the brake booster or the grommet was not holding vacuum it might be the problem but a extremely hard brake pedal would result and you would be aware of this.

surlyoldbill
05-12-2015, 02:55 PM
I've heard that the rubber connectors on the vac line can rot, especially the T at the fresh air flap. I used a Mitey Mite to check if my vac lines were good.