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shop102
04-28-2015, 11:25 PM
I bought this Sprinter knowing that it needed some love. I have since done all new washers and injector hold down bolts, new OEM EGR, freed the actuator arm on the turbo, and have done a time sert in #1 as well as a new injector. I also did an oil change and pulled close to 11 qts of oil out of the 9.5 qt system. All these things have helped a lot, and while it drives better each day….Im still having some issues. For starters, when I get in to start it, hot or cold, it takes it a minute to turn over. The next is that, when cold, I get the rattling, the very rough idle and the loss of power. It does go away after a while and the power does return once it gets up to operating temp. My thoughts are a hung open thermostat perhaps? I know that these diesels are reliant on temperature and if they are not getting to operating temp fast enough….could that cause all of this?

It also still appears to go into a “limp mode” every so often and won’t get above 2500 rpm.

shop102
04-28-2015, 11:26 PM
Also, what little history I have is that this rig has sat since september of last year. I have also replaced the air filter

jmoller99
04-29-2015, 01:09 PM
A regular ODBII reader will at least give you some error conditions that have been thrown. Even better would be to find someone with a DAD close by to check more subsystems, as well as pressures of the injectors. If you are throwing MAF errors, try to get some MAF cleaner from the auto parts store, pull the MAF (You'll need some grease for the o-ring to re-assemble) and spray it (only use MAF cleaner!!).

Occasional loss of Boost tends to be an air leak somewhere between the air filter/MAF and the the intake manifold. Small cracks in the rubber, or damage to the intercooler will do it. You don't have a Turbo Resonator (which is often the cause on a 2004 or later T1N). On the 2002/2003's there is a vacuum line under the air filter which connects to a PWM driven air modulator - if that vacuum line is leaking (after 12 years, probably a good idea to replace it), the Boost will not work right - take the headlight out to get to it (or the filter hardware - which is a very tight fit).

MAF Errors can indicate a turbo air leak, as the Amount of air that the turbo pulls thru it does not match what the MAP sensor is seeing. If the Manifold Intake Temp sensor is flakey or reading wrong, it can cause the Computer to turn off the turbo actuator - I set my dash to give me Ambient outside air temp. When your Turbo is working the Manifold Air intake temp should be at least 10 degrees F higher (up to 50 degrees higher than Ambient air temp). If its way high or low the ECU flags that as a problem and shuts off the Turbo (NOTE: mine was reading over 900 degrees occasionally, causing turbo shutdown - a bad sensor, or dirty sensor contacts - I replaced the $20 sensor).

A ScanGuage II or UltraGuage EM set to monitor your Boost PSI, MAP PSI and Manifold Intake Temp will tell you a lot about what is 'Normal' as you drive.

Don't discount sensors with poor electrical connections going to them - when ever you unplug a cable, spray the connectors (both parts) with electrical contact cleaner (any auto parts store should have it) before re-assembly. My Sprinter was a bundle of 'bad contact' issues when I got it (including the fuses and relays under the drivers seat and steering column). Its been very reliable after going thru these and the sensor contacts in the engine compartment.

kkanuck
04-29-2015, 11:38 PM
[QUOTE=jmoller99;372523]A regular ODBII reader will at least give you some error conditions that have been thrown. Even better would be to find someone with a DAD close by to check more subsystems, as well as pressures of the injectors.

I loaned Shop102 my DAD which I had not used in a while with my old laptop it used to work on (a panasonic tough book with serial port and windows XP), only to find it now gives a communication error, and will not connect. We tried it on both my 2004, as well as his 2003.

If we can find another computer to try it on we will but curious if you think the DAD itself can go bad somehow? I had it stored under my passenger seat and it has no visible damage of any sort.

Any ideas by chance jmoller99 what could cause the no communication error if it has worked in the past?

jmoller99
05-01-2015, 06:13 PM
I have a DAD and use with an old Dell 620 (WinXP), I get com errors if the RS232 cable is not plugged in well, and often it takes a number of tries to read some subsystems (transmission comes to mind). I always read each subsystem one at a time, because trying to read all of them at the same time (which is an option) has never worked for me (a lot of other DAD users have said the same thing). Try reading only the engine parameters (and pick the right engine type).