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fleetmaint
03-05-2015, 03:00 AM
2004 2500 dodge sprinter. It almost seems as if the apps is not functioning correctly. When you take off from a stop, it will accelerate as if you have the pedal at about 20% or less at any pedal position above that. Meaning if you have it floored, it will still accelerate like you have the pedal at 20%. I only have a genisys scan tool so my diagnostic abilities are limited, but throttle position goes to 100% on the scan tool, and sits at 0% when off the pedal. All pedal positions seem accurate on the sensor. The only reason I think it's something to do with the pedal is because I also get no kickdown when floored at any speed. And if I manually downshift with the pedal to the floor, it will decelerate.

I did have about 30 codes so I assumed a ground issue and ran new grounds from the battery to chassis, battery to block, and block to chassis, just to make sure. All to the same points to avoid ground loops. After clearing the codes, All I have is ones for the 2 glow plugs which are disconnected currently because they're broke and seized in the bores, and EGR faults which I haven't looked into yet.

What do you guys think my next step should be?

CDI203
03-05-2015, 07:09 PM
2004 2500 dodge sprinter. It almost seems as if the apps is not functioning correctly. When you take off from a stop, it will accelerate as if you have the pedal at about 20% or less at any pedal position above that. Meaning if you have it floored, it will still accelerate like you have the pedal at 20%. I only have a genisys scan tool so my diagnostic abilities are limited, but throttle position goes to 100% on the scan tool, and sits at 0% when off the pedal. All pedal positions seem accurate on the sensor. The only reason I think it's something to do with the pedal is because I also get no kickdown when floored at any speed. And if I manually downshift with the pedal to the floor, it will decelerate.

I did have about 30 codes so I assumed a ground issue and ran new grounds from the battery to chassis, battery to block, and block to chassis, just to make sure. All to the same points to avoid ground loops. After clearing the codes, All I have is ones for the 2 glow plugs which are disconnected currently because they're broke and seized in the bores, and EGR faults which I haven't looked into yet.

What do you guys think my next step should be?

Chek egr,
have you car is dpf if have chek difrential sensor(some times is give meny other sensor error)
best is if you can go some plase wher is mark tester

NelsonSprinter
03-05-2015, 09:46 PM
When accelerating is there a cloud of black smoke behind you?
If so you may have a turbo hose leak, or activation problem

fleetmaint
03-05-2015, 11:29 PM
When accelerating is there a cloud of black smoke behind you?
If so you may have a turbo hose leak, or activation problem

No, I forgot to mention, no black smoke. I thought turbo initially too and so did the driver.

autostaretx
03-06-2015, 02:35 AM
Can your scanner report the IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor?
(the ScanGauge, DashDaq and UltraGauge can)
See if it is "sane" (outside air temp at idle, up to 40 F hotter than outside when the turbo is at full tilt)
I had similar "no power" performance when my IAT sensor was reporting far too high (145F on a 40F day).

--dick

p.s. and i'll add a +1 (or more) on oilburner's "could be the wiring harness" :thumbup:

riskydnb
03-06-2015, 05:26 AM
2004 2500 dodge sprinter. It almost seems as if the apps is not functioning correctly. When you take off from a stop, it will accelerate as if you have the pedal at about 20% or less at any pedal position above that. Meaning if you have it floored, it will still accelerate like you have the pedal at 20%. I only have a genisys scan tool so my diagnostic abilities are limited, but throttle position goes to 100% on the scan tool, and sits at 0% when off the pedal. All pedal positions seem accurate on the sensor. The only reason I think it's something to do with the pedal is because I also get no kickdown when floored at any speed. And if I manually downshift with the pedal to the floor, it will decelerate.

I did have about 30 codes so I assumed a ground issue and ran new grounds from the battery to chassis, battery to block, and block to chassis, just to make sure. All to the same points to avoid ground loops. After clearing the codes, All I have is ones for the 2 glow plugs which are disconnected currently because they're broke and seized in the bores, and EGR faults which I haven't looked into yet.

What do you guys think my next step should be?

No doubt its 100% your egr valve, I sell Oem ones cheaper than anyone else, if interested call me @ 760-622-0148 -Randy

Oilburner
03-06-2015, 12:19 PM
If you have so many codes, your wire harness can be chafed, I had this problem with chafed wires touching ground near fuel filter. I had 10-12 codes, and had idle only, accelerator pedal was unresponsive. Don't assume EGR is the problem, sounds that is not.

jmoller99
03-06-2015, 02:39 PM
Here is one place to look for Chaffed wires (I wrapped it with 1/8 inch thick - approx 3mm - rubber). The metal bar that this wire bundle is strapped to can get rusty/sharp edges develop over time - introducing a short in random wires).

Cut the straps, wrap with electrical tape and re-strap with wire ties (but not as tight as the originals)

Here are my Before and After pictures.

skill3
03-06-2015, 06:55 PM
I'm guessing the accelerator pedal. I had similar problems. My van threw a code. When I scanned it, it was the TPS sensor, which is in the pedal. The pedal is about $300, so I would have a scan done to make sure.

Ciprian
03-07-2015, 01:06 PM
Those are the symptoms of Limp Home Mode. And like Randy said, it is most likely your EGR that is causing it.

Glass Man
03-12-2015, 12:13 AM
Having the same issue with an 06, quarter throttle drives normal.. Full throttle drives the same.

fleetmaint
03-12-2015, 10:24 PM
Thanks for the replies so far. I have not yet had a chance to look at the van again, but I hope to get to it next week so having some different things to check is a great help. I will check the harness, egr, and iat temps and report back what I find. As far as the EGR, are they ones I can pull apart and clean, or do they usually require replacement?