Check Engine Light on and Have Codes

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fink1741

New member
I took my 2007 and had the ECU read and it's coding.

Codes are: Right EKAS B90/3 2953 code.
Left EKAS B90/3 2952 code.

I'm thinking it could be from the intake swirl port actuator because some time ago I had an oil leak and some got on it. Do you think this may be the problem?

Even though my check engine light is on the truck is running absolutely perfect and I'm still getting the fuel mileage I've always got. By the way the mechanic I took my Sprinter to did work for a Mercedes dealer and is not Sprinter certified.

Thank you
 
L

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Fink
Yes sound like ding ding ding your EKAS actuator is sticking or not actuating a full sweep.
Each time you switch on the actuator does a sweep sometimes you can hear it.
You can force actuate it with the scanner.
In doing so two proximity sensors pick up the movement and this is translated into a movement calculation .

In most cases I see that the problem is caused by carbon build up it the inlet manifolds.
Or B, the actuator as lost its return spring effect and the seesaw actuator arm is floating about like a fairy!

I usually remove the cover and have someone turn the ignition key on and off to see the thing work.
If it works OK then I use my BG upper cylinder cleaner kit to purge out the carbon before resorting to wrench work. That latter wrenching bit is about 12 hours on average shop time to fix. Did one last week and two to have a go at this week!
No blueturds though!:lol: (Lovely expression by a fellow contributor FFS :rolleyes:) All 2007 'n 8's
Cheers Dennis
 
F

fink1741

New member
lindenengineering said:
Fink
Yes sound like ding ding ding your EKAS actuator is sticking or not actuating a full sweep.
Each time you switch on the actuator does a sweep sometimes you can hear it.
You can force actuate it with the scanner.
In doing so two proximity sensors pick up the movement and this is translated into a movement calculation .

In most cases I see that the problem is caused by carbon build up it the inlet manifolds.
Or B, the actuator as lost its return spring effect and the seesaw actuator arm is floating about like a fairy!

I usually remove the cover and have someone turn the ignition key on and off to see the thing work.
If it works OK then I use my BG upper cylinder cleaner kit to purge out the carbon before resorting to wrench work. That latter wrenching bit is about 12 hours on average shop time to fix. Did one last week and two to have a go at this week!
No blueturds though!:lol: (Lovely expression by a fellow contributor FFS :rolleyes:) All 2007 'n 8's
Cheers Dennis
Click to expand...
Dennis, do you have the part number for the intake swirl port actuator?

It should be an easy replacement on my part, right?

Thank you
 
L

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Dennis, do you have the part number for the intake swirl port actuator?

It should be an easy replacement on my part, right?

Yes I have the pt# for the actuator and the leggo block ball joints which it works to.
I can shoot you the numbers tomorrow.

As for a quick whip out well that another story.
It means removing the turbo and it can be just squeezed out past the manifolding, but I would recommend a total tear out and clean the manifolding/porting etc and that includes the EKAS butterfly ands link system etc.
My first line of attack is to do the upper clean purge with a special tool kit which scours the inlet tract with nasty chemicals and blows it all out the zorst!
See:-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4ABTo42tKA

Dennis
 
F

fink1741

New member
lindenengineering said:
Dennis, do you have the part number for the intake swirl port actuator?

It should be an easy replacement on my part, right?

Yes I have the pt# for the actuator and the leggo block ball joints which it works to.
I can shoot you the numbers tomorrow.

As for a quick whip out well that another story.
It means removing the turbo and it can be just squeezed out past the manifolding, but I would recommend a total tear out and clean the manifolding/porting etc and that includes the EKAS butterfly ands link system etc.
My first line of attack is to do the upper clean purge with a special tool kit which scours the inlet tract with nasty chemicals and blows it all out the zorst!
See:-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4ABTo42tKA

Dennis
Click to expand...
Sorry about that Dennis, I thought you were talking about the black plastic box that sits just above the engine "V" right by the fuel filter.

Thanks for the video. Where do you think that I should start looking in my Pennsylvania area for this upper clean purge system? Better question yet, this pressure system the gentleman used in the video, is it popular amongst diesel engine repair shops?

Thanks again, Mike
 
L

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Mike
Yes its fairly well known amongst the Ford guys !
6,00 litre Powerstroke is renown for choking itself up especially the EGR transfer tube.
Give a few Independents a call.

OR spent Christmastide in Colorado! I will dispense for than just the magic de-coke yum yum but stuff which comes in bottles but No Coors ok!:lol:
Dennis
 
F

fink1741

New member
lindenengineering said:
Mike
Yes its fairly well known amongst the Ford guys !
6,00 litre Powerstroke is renown for choking itself up especially the EGR transfer tube.
Give a few Independents a call.

OR spent Christmastide in Colorado! I will dispense for than just the magic de-coke yum yum but stuff which comes in bottles but No Coors ok!:lol:
Dennis
Click to expand...
It's a shame this didn't happen last year at this time because I was in Colorado with the Sprinter.

I'll call some Ford dealers tomorrow and let you know how I make out.

Thanks for all your help!!!
 
F

fink1741

New member
Dennis, I contacted a Ford dealer in my area that does something similar in the video. What they do is basically the same as in the video but instead of a pressurized container from the air compressor they hook up some type of a atomizer to the vehicle's battery. They hook up the atomizer with cleaner to the intake and let the vehicle run for about an hour and a half. Then they hook up to the EGR and then let that run with cleaner for an hour and a half.

So what do you think about this procedure?

Thank you
 
L

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Well In the case of my tool kit from BG it goes into the vacant aperture of the EGR valve since it has to be removed not only for cleaning but to allow flow through the EGR cooler during purge out!
.Dennis
 
F

fink1741

New member
lindenengineering said:
Well In the case of my tool kit from BG it goes into the vacant aperture of the EGR valve since it has to be removed not only for cleaning but to allow flow through the EGR cooler during purge out!
.Dennis
Click to expand...
The Ford service dealer wants to hook it up to two inlets. One being the EGR and the other I don't know. I will go over there today and just talk and I'll let you know about the other inlet. It just may be a Ford thing but I want to be sure.

Thank for being there Dennis!!!
 
F

fink1741

New member
Here I go again Dennis asking you another question. I found a guy in my area who does the BG cleaning with the pressurized canister as in the video.
The thing is that he goes through the throttle body instead of the EGR.

Is it possible that they can hook up the atomizer to the throttle body on my 2007 Sprinter?

Thank you for your patience.
 
F

fink1741

New member
lindenengineering said:
Yes basically the same thing.
I do it through the EGR becuase its easy to remove and in most acses needs cleaning anyway.
Dennis
Click to expand...

I'll see if I can get him to go throw the EGR but if not the throttle body will work as you say.

Thanks again Dennis for answering another one of my many questions.

I'll let you know as soon as it is done this Thursday.
 
F

fink1741

New member
Hello Dennis. To give you a rundown what went on today. I took my vehicle to a very good service station who had the equipment in the video along with the BG cleaner.
I stood outside and watched the tailpipe as they performed the BG cleaning and noticed very, very little white smoke coming out. I was expecting a lot of white smoke.

When the mechanic was done he hooked his computer up to my vehicle and cleared the codes. After only two start ups the check engine light came back on again.

I have a few questions for you if you would not mind answering them for me.
You had said in your original reply to me. "Or B, the actuator as lost its return spring effect and the seesaw actuator arm is floating about like a fairy". Where exactly is this spring located at?

You also said.
“EKAS actuator is sticking or not actuating a full sweep”. Is that the M72 in the picture?




Thank you so much Dennis for taking the time when us stew nods!!!
 
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