help me interpret my scanner data please

Ok guys you know i have been chasing a 2016 Low fuel rail pressure code after having a local shop install new injectors and HP pump on my 05 T1N. This apparently puts the van into a mild LHM where it feels like the boost is removed, causing slow acceleration and top speed of maybe 62 on flat ground. I can cycle the key and the van runs fine for the first few seconds of brisk acceleration, then it decides to put it into the mild LHM, or whatever it is doing.
So I bought an Autel MD802($221 shipped, beat that I dare you) and have been fooling around. Firstly, I cleared the transmission related dash lights and also the SRS light. That right there tickled me pink. Then I cleared the codes in my other van, also an 05. The other van is a beater mobile garage for me that will probably never see a tag office again, but it runs like a jet. So I took both around the block this morning, and here's what I have found:
1. I don't think my rail pressure is low. At all rpms the two vans had similar pressures. It hit 1300 bar and was probably climbing when the van went into theLHM. My beater got 1363 or so before I slowed to avoid complete neighbor hate of me. Keep in mind, the scanner is difficult to read on the fly and the data takes several tenths of a second to update, I'm guessing. So the numbers are rough estimates.
So, why would one van trigger the 2016 code and the other not? And is the 2016 code what is causing the van to de-power itself?
2. The beater jet made 2300 or so mbar of boost under acceleration. The problem child made about 2200 or so before it de-powered, then I couldnt get more than 1900 after that. Would that 400 mbar differnce really slow it down as much as it does, or is something else at work here? Isn't 400 mbar only about 5-6 lbs of boost?
3. The beater jet, upon turning off the engine, dropped its rail pressure to 9 bar and held it there until I grew tired of looking at it, about 2 minutes or so. The problem van dropped down to 2 bar in about 30 seconds. Is this discrepancy an issue?
Guys thanks for reading all my posts and being patient while I learn. I know, I know, 2 vans + a scanner, a good mechanic would fix it by accident

random,
OK 2300 millibar MAP/Boost =33.35868 PSIA (Absolute Pressure here...NOT PSI) but at what RPM and what % engine Load?
Not quite the normal 35-36 PSIA MAP pressure one would expect at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) on an OM-647m but pretty
good boost just the same.
1900 millibar MAP/Boost =27.55717 PSIA. What RPM is this at....can your fancy scanner give you the RPM and % engine Load?
Not nearly enough boost @ WOT to keep engine management computer from seeing low boost vs higher demand.
Sounds to me like you may NOT have a fuel supply or fuel pressure related issue, but are simply going into LHM due to
a MAP/Boost leak that opens up @~27.5 PSIA MAP pressure.
Have you checked your turbocharger resonator (TR) very carefully?
Sounds like the TR may have a seam issue that dumps your boost ~27.5 PSIA.
Could also be a turbo hose or turbo hose joint issue, but what ever is dumping the
pressure signals your ECM that you are at a lower than specified boost pressure profile
for the current demand (% engine Load and RPM).
Still could be fuel related, but this sounds so much like a common TR seam failure issue.
Hope this helps,
Roger

I agree with Roger. Carefully check your Charge Air system for leaks. Charge Air boost leaks can often set LHM with no resulting DTC's.

I don't know the details of how LHM power limits are accomplished. One thing for certain is that it disables the turbo vane controller. Some LHM scenarios limit RPM. That could involve fuel pressure control.

One *possible* scenario is that as the ECM enables a non-fuel rail pressure LHM event, something during the transition from normal operation affects your fuel rail pressures and sets the code. I suppose that could be related to some fuel component being on the edge of acceptable range, setting the code, but not necessarily contributing to or being the cause of your present problem(s). Note *possible* and "suppose".

Sorry I can't offer more.

vic

Thanks guys!
First, keep in mind that it was running fine before the great sugar incident and subsequent new pump and injectors. That fact alone points me to the fuel system as suspect.
The first thing i suspected for the boost loss( this was before I had scanner) was a leak in the charge plumbing. I replaced the resonator with a doorman unit and removed, cleaned, and checked the hoses. Hoses and old resonator looked fine. Also, the plumbing will hold 2300mbars until the power de-rates, then I can't get more than 1750-1800 out of it. Until i cycle the key. So it makes me think that the turbo and associated plumbing CAN make the power if the ecm let's it.
Slapped new fuel filter on( and will continue to do so as the mood hits me ).
Water pump went out. This was just an added holiday bonus I guess. Replaced it and douched everything with distilled water a couple of heat cycles. Fresh G05.
Got scanner and saw the 2016 low fuel rail DTC. Injector leak off test shows they are fine. Today I have seen that my HP pump is fine as well. In fact, my rail pressure is exactly same as my test pig van, a 118 flattop that could pull a wheelie with a fat chick on the rear bumper. HOWEVER, my 118 doesn't throw a low pressure code. This seems like a groovy clue.
I swapped fuel pressure sensors( at front of fuel rail) between vans; no change.
I guess my next step is testing the rail pressure solenoid, maybe this is dropping just enpugh pressure at the right rate to trigger the code. EDIT. Winner winner chicken dinner!!!I can't find anything in the manual but searching on here I think I know what to do, but if someone has a link feel free to post it.
Monday I will go to the shop that did pump and injextors and ask them what all they fiddled with. I do know they had talked of replacing the regulator, the thing I have since learned shouldn't be removed. Also, there is a new sensor on the front of the engine, the round metal one under the vacuum pump and to left of HP pump. What is it? And what is the tiny sensor just an inch or so to the right of it? Is one of these the fuel temperature sensor? Groovy Clue #2: the van ran noticeably better on one day when it was in the 20s a couple of weeks ago. ( normally it has been in 60's). It stayed out of the LHM, or whatever it goes into, for about a 10 mile highway drive, lots of power and would even downshift upon mashing the pedal, something it will not do when it goes into the LHM. So I am thinking about fuel tempreature a lot.
Thanks again for the help!

Well there it is right in front of me and what i have been building up to mentally. Went to test the fuel rail solenoid and I noticed a non Mercedes hose clamp. Tested solenoid and I have about ten inches of fuel in the 3\8" ID hose. So they removed my solenoid going for a cheap fix first, I thought it sounded like a great idea at the time too. I will call Dr A as he alluded he may know more than the factory wants us to know about this. The factory wants us to buy a $1600 fuel rail assembly.

Surprised we can even remove our valve stem caps on our tires without having to purchase a new center carrier bearing.

random,
Why not remove the fuel rail from your "beater" Sprinter (in the engines are the same) and see if that solves all your issues.
You aren't legal on the road with the beater anyway, so if you decide to register it in the future, you can probably find a
junkyard or reman fuel rail.
Roger

Roger,
I have thought about that. There are some used fuel rails floating around so that is an option as well. I will wait until i speak with Dr A as he may give insight about it. I mean, we went to the moon. Surely I can reattach the solenoid better? I assume the solenoid itself is fine( i believe it is brand new)so maybe whatever was compromised whenever one is removed and installed can be fixed?
On the other hand, I would hate to be near a 23,000 psi geto repair, lol.

random,
Yes!
You would be very surprised by the number of DIY mechanics who have related that they loosened fittings on the fuel rail with
the engine running.
Guess they had no idea that 23,000 PSI/1600 BAR could cut like a knife.
Shade tree or Ghetto mechanics need to realize that they could easily loose a finger/and arm/or worse from a tiny fuel leak.
I've seen first hand what just 1,200 lbs. of steam leaking from a flange joint can do, so 23k PSI/1,600 bar is absolutely terrifying.
Roger

I didn't recall the unfortunate sugar incident as being related to your problems.

random said:

... So they removed my solenoid going for a cheap fix first, I thought it sounded like a great idea at the time too ...

Surprised we can even remove our valve stem caps on our tires without having to purchase a new center carrier bearing.

Click to expand...

It does have the threads and all to make it seem like R&R is not a problem.

Glad to hear you are narrowing things down.

vic

Edit: Not that my answers regarding this have been spot on so far...
If the new solenoid isn't OEM or at least an OEM manufacturer I wouldn't assume that it is fine off-hand. On the OM612 fuel rail solenoid with replaceable seals, leaks are internal and generally affect starting. Those internal leaks often don't set DTC's. Your situation could well be different though. Doktor A should have the answers for you.

Vic,
It is a new Bosch unit, as are my injectors and pump. GEICO did not cheap out, and they reminded me of this several times, the tight asses. I may buy a rail from T2teach that he has graciously extended to me.
Oh yes, the great sugar incident. I look at the positives, now I know a little more about how my van works and am not so scared of it. Plus I can change a fuel filter in 3 minutes and can drop the tank no sweat. I also know how to install auto glass too! I already knew how to plug a tire so that was no biggie, lol.
Thanks guys!

So what was your outcome random ? I'm have the exact same problem

Well I believe that my fuel rail solenoid is dumping too much fuel to the return loop. While my overall rail pressure is good, the computer is maybe seeing the rate at which the solenoid is dumping fuel and then throws a 2016 DTC that triggers the turbo actuator to drop boost. This is my theory at least. The rub is that it is a brand new solenoid, but, uh, I guess they aren't supposed to be R and R'd. I have a new rail with unmolested solenoid on way and will update when I install it.
What are your symptoms?

Starts and drives just fine sometimes can only get to 2800 RPM and about 70 mph turn the key off restart and it's fine sometimes happens again sometimes it doesn't. Similar problem to yours feels like no power slow acceleration.I pulled the high-pressure pump and found three of the four screws hanging out of the back it also was dripping fuel so I cleaned the threads and applied Loctite tighten the bolt back down and reinstall the pomp I thought maybe that was an off but that's doesn't seem to be my problem with the code fuel pressure low fuel pressure code. I have a new fuel filter also.

Have you replaced the high-pressure pump?

Some on here have had similar problems and replaced the pump but they had issues with the van dying I I've never had that problem

So you are getting a low fuel pressure code? I think you should do an injector leak off test and a fuel rail solenoid test to eliminate those possibilities. What year is it? I assume 04-06 as you mentioned the loose pump bolts. If those bolts were that loose and it was lewking I would not assume that it was fixed by tightening them, there may be internal seal leakage or something. I don't really know how they are put together so that's a guess.
Do you have a scan tool that can measure your rail pressure?

It's a 2006. I have a scan tool hooked up now. The fuel rail pressure seems fine as it idles as I accelerate it goes up and down as I accelerate never stalls so I'm not quite sure

Hmm. I would definitely do the inj leak off and the solenoid test before proceeding.

Is there a Solenoid test for the 2006 ? And would the injectors leaking down cause the sensor to trip but not all the time ?

One call a/c said:

Is there a Solenoid test for the 2006 ? And would the injectors leaking down cause the sensor to trip but not all the time ?

Click to expand...

Yes there is a test. Do the injector leak off while you have the engine cover off too. Really bad injectors would definitely cause a pressure drop, how much I do not know. But maybe enough to trigger a code intermittently.
Search for injector leak off test. It is in the T1N write-ups section. And search for fuel pressure solenoid test, it is kind of buried in a post, I wish I could locate it for you. Both very simple.