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windseye
11-28-2014, 09:08 PM
This is my first post but I need to thank all those who have gone before. The advice here is invaluable.

My first maintenance project on my new (to me) 2003 2500 158 SHC was to replace the fuel filter. Thought it would be a 1/2 hour job. WRONG! Of course, I had an air leak afterward. In the course of working on that the end connector for the filter to low pressure pump broke. Found one locally for $20. To put it in, I had to remove the line from the pump. Again, the end connector broke. I had read the posts here and the manual on how to remove them but they were 10 years old (OE) and practically welded to their mate fittings. Salvaged an end connector from the broken line, only to learn that it is impossible to reassemble this nylon tubing without special tools.

Bought a $40 replacement line from Europarts. This is the Tee line used in 2002-2003 and it is obvious why they redesigned the lines for 2004. There is an invisible clip under the high pressure pump that holds the lines. Found it and got the old line out but in the process of installing the new line, the Tee connector on the new line broke. Indestructible nylon tubing joined with a dime store plastic Tee fitting that isn't strong enough to use on an aquarium.

Now, I am awaiting a new line from Europarts and hoping they will replace the broken one under warranty. So far I've got over $100 and several hours into a fuel filter change. Has anyone got any hints on how to successfully finish this job?

Also, how can one get the oil filter cap off without a sledgehammer? I have a good quality cast aluminum oil cap wrench that fits but slips before the cap breaks loose. Tried some duct tape under the wrench but no success.

Windseye
Williamston, MI

sailquik
11-28-2014, 09:58 PM
Windseye,
For getting the oil filter cap off, you need the correct tool.
A clamp/strap wrench type tool will simply crush the plastic oil filter can and probably put a
hole in it.
You also need the correct tool and a torque wrench to re tighten the oil filter can.
Since you are shopping at Europarts SD, here's the T1N/OM-612/OM-647 oil filter wrench they offer:
http://europarts-sd.com/oilfiltercapwrenchdieselengine-2002-2006.asp
The torque value may be cast into the plastic cover/filter canister.
Here's a thread on the correct tool:
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19465
Roger

surlyoldbill
11-29-2014, 01:58 AM
I snapped the white plastic retainer on my fuel line at the filter the first time I changed the filter. Ordered a whole new fuel line because you can't get just that part. While waiting for it to get here, a zip tie worked just fine. Your stuff either broke because you man-handled it like I did, or because it's old and baked brittle. I have NEVER done a fuel filter change without having to re-do something in order to eliminate air leaks. I have a new filter without water sensor/drain, and that will be my next one.

There are MANY threads about the air leaks. Almost all occur at the filter.

As for the oil cap, I have some plastic tool that fits OK, but there is a little slop. I never over-tighten, so I don't have a problem. You might try using a strap wrench on the outside of your oil cap tool, it might compress and hold it tighter to the cap so it won't slip.

NelsonSprinter
11-29-2014, 02:27 AM
I hope you were not like me and turned the filter in the direction of the arrow. That is the tightening direction with torque number.
Place oil on all orings and you may get airtight connections and easier removal next time, another air leak fix is in my signature line below

windseye
11-29-2014, 12:48 PM
Found very helpful post with pictures at http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=340167#post340167