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e_szalay
07-27-2014, 02:49 PM
I posted a thread about this once already but here goes again as a few things have changed. I have a 06 2.7ltr van with scan gauge 2 hooked up and doing all the neat things it can do. When climbing big hills the van heats up and turbo kicks out out I pull over restart the van and good to go. I have been running around 180-200 in temps. 18-20psi of boost sometimes it jumps to 22psi of boost on the uphill grades. Downshifting etc to keep engine revving but it just slowly starts to poop out and when I let off gas it's all done. It was 95 deg here yesterday with long gradual uphill grades and the temps were running around the 200 mark consistantly but no turbo loss on that portion only really steep inclines. I'm not sure how much boost I should be making etc. I am thinking the turbo is maybe not Boosting enough then getting hot and the thermo switch kicks out then I lose boost. System has been gone over for holes leaks etc and it holds boost just driving etc. any help would be great. Also no codes thrown

GREYGHOST
07-27-2014, 03:39 PM
I had an issue where the turbo would boost but power was way down and downshifting manually helped but didn't give me the power I remembered. I finally removed the cats and replaced with a "test pipe" with great results. Make sure that whoever removes the cats does job that is reversible . Also sprayed the backside hot side of the turbo with seafoam spray and deep creep. I believe it is the same thing. Because iof the cats being plugged up or worn out or whatever the case may be. The exciter ring had gotten coked up or full of soot and was not working properly. John

Aqua Puttana
07-27-2014, 03:59 PM
So many times the loss of boost as you describe with no DTC's traces to boost system air leaks. I'd re-inspect all the hoses and TR for evidence of oil leaking out. That may help find any charge air system leaks.

If you are set to Boost Pressure PSI then the pressures you mention sound typical to my experience.

vic

e_szalay
07-27-2014, 05:36 PM
Yes I have boost set to psi and yes I have felt the power is down in this thing since I bought it. The cats would make sense it has 493k on it and those are original and that would point to why I have soot build up do fast on the egr as well as the heat issues. I will be yanking it next week, I will just have to register it as a commercial vehicle to bypass any emissions testing. I will just punch a hole through cat and remount it

lindenengineering
07-28-2014, 02:44 PM
These days as T1n models age I see more and more with turbo problems traced to exhaust system issues!

Even simple insertion of the flex joint following a failure needs to be done with care. Any reduction in size will restrict gas flow and cause boost pressure problems and engine response/turbo spool up times.

Then of course the other is a complete system replacement by some moron in an exhaust repair shop. Using exhaust tube and a bender to demonstrate their "bending skills" plus using a gasoline muffler will more often than not result in poor performance, lack of boost, engine damage poor fuel consumption.

You can do a back pressure test with some simple materials making up a U tube H20 manometer and connecting it the O2 sensor port. Back pressure MUST NOT exceed 15" of H20 on full boost.

As for punching out the cat matrix and all the time it takes to gain access to it and then clear out the debris so that it DOESN"T plug up the system why not buy a new Cat unit?
Frankly why bother to go to all that time loss?
Retailing from the MB dealer at about $750 it will restore your Tinney to "as new" performance levels and the fuel saved will quickly return the investment at current pump prices. The cat back tail pipe can be made at a muffler shop for about $150 installed.
Smilesville for about $1000.:thumbup:
Dennis

e_szalay
08-05-2014, 02:40 AM
problem with going to a shop here and removing the cat is that it is illegal for them to do so. Why drop 750 when I can remove the whole exhaust cut the pipe punch them out and dump debris any small stuff will exit but its so brittle it will all dump out. pay a guy to weld the pipe and only have 100.00 into it and a little time and guarantee no problems in the future. I now see why the turbo is new when I bought this they thought it was turbo related but after talking with a few guys I am certain this is it.

e_szalay
08-06-2014, 03:03 AM
well I have it all welded back together and can immediately see a difference for sure. The engine is running 10-15 deg cooler on reg driving around town I am going on a road trip tomorrow so I will post results but the egr is still not the greatest it has some lag on the bottom due to the egr not holding closed and spring being whooped