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doctorzaius
07-01-2014, 10:54 PM
My 2008 has been displaying its engine check light for months. The Scan Gauge indicated a code of P0675 which is attributable to the #5 Glow Plug or its control circuit. This is what I did to fix it. I've never worked on this motor except to change oil so a lot of this will be obvious to many.

First off, here's the engine bay for context. The airbox has to be removed and doing that requires removing the hose clamp and two electrical connectors indicated in red.

doctorzaius
07-01-2014, 10:56 PM
The electrical post also has to be removed as well (slides out of the airbox)

doctorzaius
07-01-2014, 10:57 PM
Lift the front of the airbox and yank it out.

doctorzaius
07-01-2014, 10:59 PM
With the airbox removed, the engine looks like this. The engine cover then has to be removed by loosening the five Torx fasteners shown in red.

doctorzaius
07-01-2014, 11:00 PM
Without the engine cover, the motor looks like this.

doctorzaius
07-01-2014, 11:03 PM
To get to the #5 plug, you have to remove the Aluminum pipe attached to the turbocharger and what I believe is the turbo resonator.

doctorzaius
07-01-2014, 11:06 PM
The pipe is retained with a single screw (not shown). The resonator is retained by three screws (in red) and a clip retained by a screw (in blue).

doctorzaius
07-01-2014, 11:10 PM
With that stuff gone, you still can't see the #5 plug (at least not well enough for photos). Here it is with an 8mm socket attached to it.

doctorzaius
07-01-2014, 11:12 PM
Here's a picture of the #2 plug just to show the connector.

doctorzaius
07-01-2014, 11:14 PM
The engine was warm (not hot) when I did this and the #5 plug came right out using the 8mm socket. I used the special tool from Amazon to remove the connector and applied anti-seize on the new plug (not trying to start another religious war). If I were doing this over, I'd replace the gasket between the turbo and the hard pipe.

doctorzaius
07-01-2014, 11:17 PM
This is the glow plug that I removed. My guess is that the light corrosion around the connector was responsible for the P0675 fault (which has gone away).

doctorzaius
07-01-2014, 11:17 PM
In general, this was a very easy task. There's no way I'd bother taking this to the dealer. I bought six replacement plugs on the theory that I'd replace them all as long as I was in there, but it turns out to be so easy that I'm comfortable holding them as spares until replacement is actually required.


Hope this helps someone.

doctorzaius
07-02-2014, 05:58 AM
glow plugs purchased here: http://europarts-sd.com/glowplug2007-2009.asp
glow plug tool: http://www.amazon.com/Mercedes-Benz-Glow-Plug-Connector-Pliers/dp/B0031EFXY0/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1404280638&sr=1-7&keywords=sprinter+glow+plug

smiller
07-02-2014, 06:09 AM
Great write-up, thanks. Are the glow plug connectors captive in any way (i.e. any tabs to release, etc.) or do they just pull off?

doctorzaius
07-02-2014, 06:13 AM
There's a catch mechanism which you could possibly work around. But the tool ($40 on Amazon) makes removal easy.

awaywego
07-02-2014, 04:38 PM
very helpful writeup and the level of detail will help ambitious beginners like myself who want to maintain their vehicle on their own. Thanks.

smiller
07-02-2014, 08:00 PM
I'm glad that you didn't have to include a section about what to do when the glow plug breaks!

doctorzaius
07-02-2014, 08:06 PM
I'm glad that you didn't have to include a section about what to do when the glow plug breaks!

Me too, but like I said it came right out. If there had been any resistance, I would have stopped and taken it to the dealer.

RonP
11-16-2014, 04:40 PM
I changed #6 glow plug and had trouble getting the connector off. I removed the resonator and tube, still couldn't get the connector off. Put it back together and messed up the o-ring - would bog down to 30 mph on hills, got P0299 code. Ordered the tool from Amazon $40 plus $7 shipping. Tried again, tool kept slipping! Finally got connector off with fingers. Glow plug removed easily and went in nicely. Was able to save o-ring. Life is Good! No codes, can accelerate on hills.

Mib4840
11-20-2014, 04:21 PM
My #5 GP just went out so I am going to try and replace it my self. I've been reading as many posts as possible on this but have not seen a photo of the connector and how or when it is removed. I assume it has to be removed before the GP can be unscrewed. Does any one have a photo and or description on how the connector is clipped onto the GP and what you have to do to remove it without the tool?

sprintguy
11-20-2014, 09:30 PM
Quick tip... replace that o-ring seal everytime you take the pipe off from the turbo to the resonator, This o-ring is been a cause of many intake manifold replacements... see other threads on this forum. Oh and for #5 you don not have to remove the charge piping to replace it. (hint.. use the MB special socket tool # 001589800900).

Good luck

rb3232
11-25-2014, 06:50 PM
Thanks! I just got the same codes for #5 glow plug. 2007 with 28,000 miles.

rb3232
11-25-2014, 07:43 PM
btw did you happen to confirm the glow plug you removed failed and it wasn't just a bad connection or whatever? Thanks, Ross

sprintguy
11-26-2014, 02:59 PM
btw did you happen to confirm the glow plug you removed failed and it wasn't just a bad connection or whatever? Thanks, Ross

resistance check at the plug should be no more than 2.5 ohms to ground, besides the connections barely are the problem even when they don't want to release from the plug.

Carl

synergy_58
11-30-2014, 10:57 PM
Ok, this may seem easy to some of you, but for me, it's ALL a new experience! I just got a scan gauge code 0675 after having to rinse down my engine compartment with a light spray of water (oil spill). As I understand all of this, an 0675 code indicates a bad glow plug, right?

BUT...how do you know which glow plug?
How did you know it was glow plug #5, by the code?

My engine still starts just fine, and the squiggly dash indicator for the glow plug goes out after every start. The problem is that the ck engine light won't clear, and I don't know how to clear it, aside from trying to clear it on the scan gauge, which hasn't worked.

I really hate to take it to the dealer!

Terdchaser
12-02-2014, 01:02 AM
O.K. I'm throwing the WAY curve Ball! Y'all pay attention!!!!!
2007 with 231Kmiles, error code for both gp1 and 6 circuits for over 70K miles. Extremely hard starting below 60*F, 5 tries before finally starting at 40+ degrees. Above this temp, engine starts normally. New relay and glow plugs are available in the next two days. With this amount of mileage, do I replace all six and the relay/controller, or pick-and-choose which ones get replaced? Keep in mind, this P.O.S. was a Ryder rental truck abused for it's first 147K miles of life.
On a side bar, have reservations on warming up the engine to replace the glow plugs. If the engine is cold, tolerances should be larger due to the temperature, this should make the removal of the glow plugs easier. Don't have any problem with spraying carb cleaner down the threads to loosen the plugs. If the engine is warm, the tolerances would be tighter, increasing the amount of torque required to remove the glow plug.
Please with someone with experience advise!:bash:

lindenengineering
12-02-2014, 01:28 PM
O.K. I'm throwing the WAY curve Ball! Y'all pay attention!!!!!
2007 with 231Kmiles, error code for both gp1 and 6 circuits for over 70K miles. Extremely hard starting below 60*F, 5 tries before finally starting at 40+ degrees. Above this temp, engine starts normally. New relay and glow plugs are available in the next two days. With this amount of mileage, do I replace all six and the relay/controller, or pick-and-choose which ones get replaced? Keep in mind, this P.O.S. was a Ryder rental truck abused for it's first 147K miles of life.
On a side bar, have reservations on warming up the engine to replace the glow plugs. If the engine is cold, tolerances should be larger due to the temperature, this should make the removal of the glow plugs easier. Don't have any problem with spraying carb cleaner down the threads to loosen the plugs. If the engine is warm, the tolerances would be tighter, increasing the amount of torque required to remove the glow plug.
Please with someone with experience advise!:bash:

Well first of all I hate doing things twice! or more for that matter!
So from my perspective I would go in and toss out all six of them.
If it had the old style glow plug controller it would get binned as well, especially at that mileage you have. Glows are about $35 a pop and the latest & greatest controller is $200 .

On the V6 hot or cold doesn't seem to matter, when spinning them out that's more of a 5 cylinder issue. Now that stated I have had to drill out busted glow plugs due to ham fisted installs and less than a modicum of mechanical sympathy upon attempted removal.
The last one I did had two glows busted by the owner then a shop broke the rest off !
Work that out!
Came in on the hook !---You fix this POS Mister!:rolleyes:
Tip:- Always blow this area clean with a blast of shop air!
Go easy with the sound covers over the area, especially the right back corner covering glows #5 & 6 . Sometimes it helps to loosen off the turbo transfer tube and let it float.
And be careful with the injector leak of pipe assy its very delicate and about $85 to parts change it .
Dennis

synergy_58
12-02-2014, 03:10 PM
Ok, this may seem easy to some of you, but for me, it's ALL a new experience! I just got a scan gauge code 0675 after having to rinse down my engine compartment with a light spray of water (oil spill). As I understand all of this, an 0675 code indicates a bad glow plug, right?

BUT...how do you know which glow plug?

How did you know it was glow plug #5, by the code?

My engine still starts just fine, and the squiggly dash indicator for the glow plug goes out after every start. The problem is that the ck engine light won't clear, and I don't know how to clear it, aside from trying to clear it on the scan gauge, which hasn't worked.

I really hate to take it to the dealer!

The dealer wants $460.00 labor and $50 (one glow plug) parts and shop fees of $19.95, all plus tax, if the plug comes right out easily.

Hmmm?

Would anyone respond to my questions please.

Again, with an #0675 code, how do you know which glow plug needs to be replaced?



Thanks.

Mib4840
12-02-2014, 04:03 PM
Take it to an auto parts store that has a scanner and it will tell you which one. I don't know how to tell on my ScanGauge though.

Terdchaser
12-17-2014, 12:52 AM
Thank You Dennis!
Changed all 6 plugs and the controller, took about 2 hours ( give or take) and it fires up like it never has before! Got 6 Behr steel grow prugs, and a new controller that ends in.....well, didn't pay that much attention, but it IS the one for the steel grow prugs! Checked the part numbers twice before installing it compared to the beginning thread on this post.
Thanks,
Cheers!
Paul

lindenengineering
12-17-2014, 01:13 AM
Thank You Dennis!
Changed all 6 plugs and the controller, took about 2 hours ( give or take) and it fires up like it never has before! Got 6 Behr steel grow prugs, and a new controller that ends in.....well, didn't pay that much attention, but it IS the one for the steel grow prugs! Checked the part numbers twice before installing it compared to the beginning thread on this post.
Thanks,
Cheers!
Paul

Paul
Well then its :thumbup::thumbup:
And the drum roll!:thumbup:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YmMNpbFjp0

And since its late December
Merry Christmas
Dennis

nemu
12-30-2014, 06:09 PM
My Sprinter is an early 2008 3litre OM642 engine and at about 3 years of age I got the glow plug warning after starting ( at maybe 18,000 miles)


at my next service the MB techs scanned it and told me that 1, 3 & 6 plugs were faulty

but they persuaded me to leave them as they are and not to change them as I didn't have problems starting when cold (which I don't especially as I have the pre-heater ) they just said there was to much potential for trouble

My Scangauge isn't showing any codes - should it detect faulty glow plugs ? I have seen people on this forum saying that theirs does ?


anyway after reading on this brilliant forum many of the glowplug treads over the last couple of years I noticed a statement that mentioned that the re-gen wont occur if any glow plugs are dead ( something that wasn't mentioned to me by my MB dealer)

So as its coming up to 7 years of age & with only 33,000 miles I thought I would give it a go

last week I dropped some releasing fluid (GASPLUS) onto the top of each glow plug and removed the plug from the module to test the resistance which showed plugs 1,2 & 6 had resistances of around 600 Ohms but 3,4&5 where looking good at 0.7 ohm

today with engine at 88C & another dose of releasing agent I VERY easily removed 1 & 2 but 6 didn't want to budge - my original plan was to change all 6 if each one came out ok so I tried 3 which cracked with a more effort than 1&2 but not as much as I had tried on the stuck 6 , so gently twisting both ways and more releasing agent I got it out to find the thread was clogged with aluminium towards the top of the plug thread :(

now I am frightened to try 6 again !

got new plugs & installed 1&2 easily , with 3 I was more careful as it was stiffer to twist in but I got it in & it seems to be ok all I need now is to borrow a torque wrench as mine doesn't go as low as 11Nm

won't now bother changing 4 &5 as they are ok after my problems but I would like to get the faulty no 6 out as I have got this far - may have another go at that in the future (perhaps the engine had cooled off by the time I got to 6 & 3 ??)

now what about the glow plug module? - I have read on here that my original has been superseded with A 6429002800 - do I need to change it to work with the new plugs (A 001 159 71 01) or is the original compatible with the new plugs ?

CJPJ
06-21-2015, 10:06 PM
Thanks to the OP for the thread.
I changed out the #5 glow plug. Easy task, just had to purchase a 8mm deep sock.

Only difficultie being the solid wire harness (approx. 1inch diameter) and its proximity being above the glow plug:
To start the Glow plug threading in; I worked around the harness by resting the extension drivers end on the head of the deep socket @ a slight angle (10 degrees) and finger turned the extension until the Glow plug was threaded down. Once down, was able to insert the extension into tha socket with some compressive pressure to the harness and finished the tightening.

Purchased the GP: $34.50 from MB.
Also purchased and replaced the Control: 194$.

The old GP tested @ 4.5 OHMS.

Btw: ... after the repair the GP light returned to normal right away, but the engine light remained on for many start ups before going away.


:hmmm:... Because of the way I interpreted a Forum posting ... I decided to replace the working Control unit: in that the newer designed Control is a better more robust unit. There is a noticeable design difference when comparing the two!



:2cents:

Timberdog
06-21-2015, 10:21 PM
Subsribed

soofle616
07-02-2015, 05:03 PM
Complete newbie here. My dad has an 09 (winnebago conversion van) that recently popped up a cel. Had it scanned and (according to the friendly guy at autozone) the code came back saying #5 plug was bad. Got the new plug and have just been waiting for a good chance to borrow the van so I can replace it for him. Have been a little freaked out about the job having never touched a diesel before so this thread has been enormously helpful in easing my concerns. Hopefully going to get into the thing this weekend and get it fixed up so I can borrow it to travel in again :)

csnyder4
07-18-2015, 03:01 AM
Is there a torque spec for tightening the plugs?

ETA: Never mind. I found the value - 11 Nm. That's 97 in-lb.

Alex
07-20-2015, 07:19 PM
Guys
Every time after cold start engine light "On". Engine fires up without problems
DAD show me: P1482 Preglow output
Erased all errors using program DAD, during the day no problem.
Next day first crank same thing.
Engine has 100.000 miles
Shell I replace plugs, or some another things going wrong ?

Pule'sLTV
09-10-2015, 04:38 PM
The dealer wants $460.00 labor and $50 (one glow plug) parts and shop fees of $19.95, all plus tax, if the plug comes right out easily.

Hmmm?

Would anyone respond to my questions please.

Again, with an #0675 code, how do you know which glow plug needs to be replaced?



Thanks.
Doesn't the last digit in the code indicate cylinder number?

doctorzaius
09-10-2015, 05:25 PM
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0675

nemu
09-14-2015, 04:41 PM
finally got my number 6 stuck glow plug out

yippee

been dribbling PlusGas releasing oil on it on and off for months but it wouldn't budge ( didn't try to hard and only used a very small Tbar on the 8mm socket)

anyway after a 2 hour drive home I just had another go with the engine really hot , it still wouldn't budge so I soaked it in WD40 for a couple of minutes this time and tried again and out it came

The top two turns on the glow plug had aluminium in the thread from the cylinder head just like my number 3 last year but the new plug went in ok !

Coolbaldguy
09-14-2015, 10:09 PM
Glad you got it. I had a glow plug #5 code a few months ago. I cleared it to see if it would come back ....it hasn't. Thanks to all of the helpful folks in this thread, I am going to take a look at it. I plan to check it with a meter and check the connections for corrosion. If all is well I will just leave it alone. It is in a 2007 chassis Winnebago with 53k miles and only gets used about once or twice a month.

drifter3060
09-30-2015, 03:49 PM
My #6 glow plug is bad. Do I need to pull the resonator pipe to remove it? The wiring harness is tough to move and wondered if removing the tube would make it easier

CJPJ
09-30-2015, 07:16 PM
My #6 glow plug is bad. Do I need to pull the resonator pipe to remove it? The wiring harness is tough to move and wondered if removing the tube would make it easierI removed and replaced the #6 glow plug (yesterday): and didn't remove resonator pipe. All I removed was the air cleaner and the engine cover.

The #6 glow plug is in a confined space between a bracket and the common rail with the harness above.

I worked the tight wire harness loose enough; and was able to raise it and move it to the left to the bracket side ... enough to get the 8mm deep socket on the glow plug; 90% of my efforts was working that tight harness.

Care taken ... pulling the harness.
Care taken removing and rethread the glow plug.

:2cents:

Trayscott
10-02-2015, 02:45 AM
My 2008 with about 185000 on it at the time set a plug code when it went into regen. Freightliner dealer replaced the controller, no plugs needed, 350 bucks installed. 245000 miles running strong.

Mopulga
03-09-2016, 10:46 PM
Hi Folks. What is the part number for the mentioned o-ring?

Thanks!



Quick tip... replace that o-ring seal everytime you take the pipe off from the turbo to the resonator, This o-ring is been a cause of many intake manifold replacements... see other threads on this forum. Oh and for #5 you don not have to remove the charge piping to replace it. (hint.. use the MB special socket tool # 001589800900).

Good luck

hightechcoonass
05-22-2016, 01:02 AM
Hey fellows, what plug and controller would you recommend. I have a 2008 v6 I have my number 3 went out (engine light is on today and autozone ran a free scan check for me).

I am sure the controller has to meet the plug type...

CJPJ
05-22-2016, 01:57 AM
Hey fellows, what plug and controller would you recommend. I have a 2008 v6 I have my number 3 went out (engine light is on today and autozone ran a free scan check for me).

I am sure the controller has to meet the plug type...

GP part # A 001 159 71 01

New revised CONTROL UNIT; part# A 642 900 58 01 ; replaces old style control unit part# A 642 153 19 79

Purchased the GP: $34.50 from MB.
Also purchased and replaced the Control: 194$.

Aqua Puttana
05-22-2016, 02:18 AM
Hey fellows, what plug and controller would you recommend. I have a 2008 v6 I have my number 3 went out (engine light is on today and autozone ran a free scan check for me).

I am sure the controller has to meet the plug type...

Why do want to replace the controller aka module?

The older T1N glow plug modules had built in fuses. When the glow plug would draw too much current the fuse(s) would blow. The fuses were not replaceable so new module was required. (Or the module could be DIY modified.)

That module design has been changed. There are no internal fuses.

The V-6 glow plug module does not need to be replaced just because a glow plug fails. Your module may still be fine.

:cheers: vic

bcislander
05-22-2016, 05:09 AM
snip.....

The V-6 glow plug module does not need to be replaced just because a glow plug fails. Your module may still be fine.

:cheers: vic

True, but the old style NCV3 GP module is 'known' to fail at about this time in its life, especially if a GP has failed (coincidence??), the one on my van certainly did. Of course it failed while I was on a long trip, not long after I had thought about doing a pre-emptive GP module replacement after reading some GP threads on this Forum. That cost me some extra $$$ and an unscheduled delay in the trip.

So, replacing an 'old style' GP module as a preventive maintenance item is advised for the early NCV3 Sprinters. Plus it's an easy DIY job.

lindenengineering
05-22-2016, 03:35 PM
Just a note about this glow plug subject and observations.

We often get the task of removing glow plug on ALL Sprinters. Some come in broken!
No surprise there!

Some have been replaced before; and some have been so badly installed that they deserve to break.
Now if you take the time to LOOK at the seating area on the body, you might just see that those aftermarket "glows" you bought at the auto parts store do NOT have the same seating shape or chamfer!
I kid you not!:rolleyes:
In fact there is a wide variation from make to make and we have even had a set of BERU (a customer said please "fit my "glows", when in fact the BERU's in MB genuine boxes sported the same chamfer as the originals we were removing, but NOT the replacements he presented!
Now it doesn't take much of a degree in rocket science to understand that installing a glow plug that doesn't have the right seating ability will allow carbon to propagate in time up inside the glow plug area and cause you some big problems the next time you come to taking them out!
Be careful what you fit !
MB engines don't tolerate bad aftermarket stuff too well!
Dennis
Mechanic

CJPJ
05-22-2016, 04:39 PM
Just a note about this glow plug subject and observations.

Now it doesn't take much of a degree in rocket science to understand that installing a glow plug that doesn't have the right seating ability will allow carbon to propagate in time up inside the glow plug area and cause you some big problems the next time you come to taking them out!
Be careful what you fit !

Dennis
Mechanic Compareing and noting the similarity or dissimilarity between! .. its second nature to me when working on machinery/anything: I avoid aftermarket because of it.
76609:smilewink:

lindenengineering
05-22-2016, 06:25 PM
Thanks for showing that piccy!
:thumbup::thumbup: Good work!
Cheers Dennis

BillyJoe
05-25-2016, 10:56 AM
Here another pic of differences of the seat that might cause trouble. The lower was installed (Bosch but wrong part number) and the upper is the right one. Only visual difference is the seat. So be careful and do not trust only your eyes, but the part numbers too. Only one of old ones had a little leak to the body.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/MPuhis/IMG_2126_zpsqqevygkn.jpg

Coolbaldguy
09-24-2016, 12:48 AM
Thanks again for all of the good advice. I changed all six. All six came loose without a struggle. I had the engine up to full operating temp and then disassembled and removed all six. Left them sitting in their holes until next day when i would have the replacements. Put it back together and cleared code. Total time for job around 3 hrs. 1 hour of the time i spent wrestling with the resonator seal (new and not the correct part) had to reuse the old one...it seemed to be in fine shape anyways.

shanemac
09-22-2017, 02:38 PM
Lucky me, my 07 sprinter a few weeks back had a glow plug light staying on with a check engine light, also van not starting well and when it did finally start it sounded like a tractor. Brought it to my local shop they said glow plug module was bad, went to pick up the van and its doing the same thing. ( the mornings are getting cold already here) no check engine light and glow plug light seems to be working normal.... I left the van for them to recheck few days later they say they can't find anything wrong WTF :censored:...question can a glow plug on these ohm fine but yet still not function?

I have to cycle the key 3-4 times so the van will actually start.

Also i checked the glow plug module they put in and its a Dorman 904-310 red flag maybe?:thinking:

From the reading in this thread the OEM is better module A6429005801
and glow plugs A0011597101

Düsseldorfer
09-30-2017, 09:39 PM
First, a big thank you to all who have contributed knowledge to this thread over the years. I paged through it this morning before replacing the GPs in the LHS engine bank of my '08, and it was extremely helpful.

I am just posting to clarify one thing. The OP's excellent and very detailed posts -- wish we all did that well in our how-tos -- had one ambiguity. He mentions a "gasket" between the turbo outlet and the resonator connector, but it's actually an o-ring -- green 'un, which is Buna, or maybe Viton.

Speaking of o-rings, I found when I did this job that the o-ring on the outlet side of the resonator had been damaged, likely when I had the dealer do the last glow plug replacement. (That was at about 80k, now I am at around 160k miles.) It had a little bit of a leak or seep, so the resonator outlet bracket was covered in tar. Anyway, I replaced the turbo outlet o-ring, the resonator outlet o-ring, and the resonator inlet seal for peace of mind.

Also, as others have said, the plugs on the LHS cylinder bank (#4, 5, and 6) can be replaced without removing the plastic engine cover on that side. I suspect that #4 and #6 could be replaced without removing the resonator and connector pipe also.

Very straightforward job, made even easier by the helpful info on this board!

Happy Sprintering,
D

imsebastian
11-23-2017, 05:02 AM
Thanks for the great write-ups! I'm new to the scene here and trying this swap myself - where do you buy OEM parts like the turbo outlet o-ring, the resonator outlet o-ring, and the resonator inlet seal?

Cheers
Sebastian

smiller
11-23-2017, 08:47 AM
Thanks for the great write-ups! I'm new to the scene here and trying this swap myself - where do you buy OEM parts like the turbo outlet o-ring, the resonator outlet o-ring, and the resonator inlet seal?

Your local dealer (if you have a Dodge-era Sprinter you may find parts to be more available and less expensive at an MB dealer) or if you prefer mail order you can use Europarts (http://europarts-sd.com)

shanemac
01-22-2018, 09:36 PM
Ok, i thought i did a follow up with my glow plug module but i guess not....my local shop ordered the OEM module, now the van starts great in the cold mornings in fact i think the last few winters i was dealing with a messed up module because the van has never started better in very cold weather in a long time. So the OEM module may have been improved (i notice glow plug light stays on longer like it should when needed).:idunno:

Either way i was almost ready to call a wrecker and get the van out of my sight.:crazy:

dtoddrship
03-27-2019, 06:28 PM
Does anyone know which gaskets or O-rings you replace on the turbo parts you have to take off?