3-way switch for LED Lightbar tied to High Beams

Jaime72

Member
So I recall a thread about using a 3-way switch to run a LED lightbar tied to the high beam relay, a search isn't giving me the results I was looking for!

Problem solve using a 3-way switch to run a RIGID Industries 20" LED Lightbar (roads are dark here in Alaska in the winter!) through both AUX battery system as well as the high beam relay.

position 1 - Light Bar ON run through AUX or house battery (vehicle off, camping, etc)
position 2 - Light Bar OFF
position 3 - Light bar ON only when high beams are activated

2014 with the Xenon lights.

Idea's? I thought it shouldn't be too difficult, though the installer brains I have asked just aren't sure. It didn't instill confidence!
 

ECU

2006 T1n 118 Sprinter
You could have a relay under the hood that would turn on only when the high beams are active.
a SPDT with off in the middle would do for the switch.
 
Use an automotive 12V relay to control the light bar (ON-OFF).

Control the relay thru your SPDT switch (ON-OFF-ON). The power to the switch will be acting like a control signal with little current. Wire it with (ignition or continuous, your choice) 12V feeding one end of the switch, 12 from the high beams feeding the other end and the output (Common) going to the relay coil.

Using a relay lets you do 2 things. Use a low current switch - more choices since current doesnt matter - which is more reliable, and it lets you feed the light bar directly from the battery thru a fuse, which means a shorter wire and less losses. It doesnt hurt that 12V automotive relays are cheap, widely available (should it fail) and easy to replace, depending on where you locate it.
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
position 1 - Light Bar ON run through AUX or house battery (vehicle off, camping, etc)
position 2 - Light Bar OFF
position 3 - Light bar ON only when high beams are activated
Here's what the other folks have been saying, as a schematic diagram:

LEDbar.jpg

If the wire colors are the same as a 2007, the Left Hi Beam is a White/Black wire, and the Right Hi Beam is a White/Red wire... they come from the Body Control Module and go to their individual lamp units.
Either one could serve as the "tap".

If you use your house battery, it will probably be coupled to your starting battery (for charging) when you're under way, so it won't be drained when driving.

--dick
("White/Red" means a white wire with a red stripe running along its length)
("spdt" means "single pole, double throw" in switch-speak. "cent off" is "off in the center position")
 
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Jaime72

Member
OK, back to the project. 18 hours + of daylight in Alaska during the summer and I wasn't too motivated to get this underway in May! Installed yesterday by a Rigid Lightbar Dealer. They do alot of our Emergency Vehicle lighting and systems, I trust their work. 2014 2500 144" with Xenon headlamps.

Ended up having a Rigid Industries SR-20 Combo 20" LED Lightbar installed on the front step above the license plate mount. I went with the single row lightbar as opposed to the dual row to allow adequate air-flow past the lightbar. They used a Rigid mounting bracket for $50 to avoid fabricating a bracket @ $90/hr.

They installed a SPDT 3-way switch mounted in one of the switch blanks just left of the headlamp switch. There is a relay behind the dash which leads to a solenoid in the engine compartment. Switch up runs the lightbar of the 450aHr house battery system. Middle position is OFF. Down position ties into High Beam Headlamps. Haven't tested yet with the Auto High Beam OFF feature. Everything else works perfect. I bit of a "clunk" from the relay I imagine behind the dash. I can live with that for now.

I'll post a picture of the lights turned on once it gets dark enough! Off to drive the Alaska Highway south next week, returning in October, these should be a nice addition!




 
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avanti

2022 Ford Transit 3500
Nice.

So, is there any chance you can find the manufacturer and model number of that rocker switch that fits so nicely in the Sprinter dash opening?
 

pattonsr

New member
Jaime72,

What Rigid Lightbar Dealer did you use in Anchorage?

I also noticed that you have a Rigid SR2 20" - Combo (you said you had the Rigid SR 20" - Combo). The SR2 has 26 LED's versus the 20 LED's of the SR.
 
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Jaime72

Member
Jaime72,

What Rigid Lightbar Dealer did you use in Anchorage?

I also noticed that you have a Rigid SR2 20" - Combo (you said you had the Rigid SR 20" - Combo). The SR2 has 26 LED's versus the 20 LED's of the SR.

I used Alaska Safety on Gambell St south of Tudor. Great service, smart guys. You are correct, the bar I have is actually the SR2. Just a little more flood than the SR.

I will edit with the switch later.
 

hein

Van Guru
Nice install and looks like it will light up the road very well. Might be a bit overkill to have a switch > relay > solenoid > lights (load) setup. 80 watts/12V DC = ~7 amps. An automotive relay would have been fine and the clunk you hear is likely that solenoid attached to the firewall. Maybe I don't understand the wiring completely.

I like how your switch fits. I designed a switch adapter that I released to Shapeways for those interested:
https://www.shapeways.com/model/1738828/sprinter-switch-blank.html?materialId=25
 
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Jaime72

Member
I like how your switch fits. I designed a switch adapter that I released to Shapeways for those interested:
https://www.shapeways.com/model/1738828/sprinter-switch-blank.html?materialId=25

I actually had 4 of those blanks of Shapeways that I couldn't locate when install time came around! They were a great fit and look! I think I will maybe replace what I have once I locate. On a side note, the SPDT switch that is linked for that blank is no longer available through Amazon.

I think the wiring was set-up without the relay (just solenoid) but they had a few problems with the high beam. Adding the relay fixed the problem. I think this installer typically overbuilds (think Emergency Services and North Slope Oil Fields).
 

220629

Well-known member
I know that this is an old post.

... On a side note, the SPDT switch that is linked for that blank is no longer available through Amazon.

...
:bash:
There 's already a bunch of previous discussion about switch adapters here.
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=310371#post310371

Adapters are available here.

NCV3-Sprinter-Dash-switch-adapter-with-switch
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NCV3-Sprinter-Dash-switch-adapter-with-switch-/141859343063

Back to my reply.

There may still be Uxcel or other switches to fit the adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-SPDT-...493120489&sr=1-17&keywords=uxcell+boat+switch

https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a1506...1493120489&sr=1-5&keywords=uxcell+boat+switch

https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a1301...493120726&sr=1-30&keywords=uxcell+boat+switch

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Posit...493120769&sr=1-35&keywords=uxcell+boat+switch

Another possible brand.

https://www.amazon.com/Conwork-10pc...=1-76-spons&keywords=uxcell+boat+switch&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Conwork-20pc...=1-98-spons&keywords=uxcell+boat+switch&psc=1

"Boat" switches may have some standard sizes. I didn't see any inner dimensions for the adapter. That would help determine whether a switch will fit.

vic
 
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