Where'd they hide the horn!?

Old Crows

Calypso 2014 View Profile
Calypso has a really, really, really anemic horn... Ok for RV parks and city streets.... NOT OK for highways! Where is that sucker?

Looking for a replacement that will direct connect to existing wires. NAPA has a Fiamm slim line model tha looks interesting. Thoughts?
 

220629

Well-known member
Calypso has a really, really, really anemic horn... Ok for RV parks and city streets.... NOT OK for highways! Where is that sucker?

Looking for a replacement that will direct connect to existing wires. NAPA has a Fiamm slim line model tha looks interesting. Thoughts?
:idunno:

Are you asking for the OEM horn phyical location? Maybe have someone honk it while the hood is up with you looking?

As you mentioned, if it's like my T1N horn ear plugs will not be needed.

Harbor Freight has dual horn cheapies which I used to replace the failed horns on our 1995 Buick. They are loud enough for me.

vic
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Will the CanBus or CEL light up like a Xmas tree if I add a non OEM horn?
The only NCV3 wiring diagram i have is for the 2007, but it would appear that the horn is simply driven by a relay... so an add-on (that doesn't draw excessive current) should be "safe".

The relay is not shown as having arc-suppression devices across its contacts, so there's a small possibility of arc-welding them if your horn has a ridiculously high in-rush current.

2007horn1.jpg

--dick
 
Here is what you need, a Stebel Nautilus airhorn. I didn't replace the horn, but installed this in addition to the horn. Then I wired it so it is accessible from switches in the cab and also near the bed as a safety feature. So I don't know if the current draw of this would be too much for the OEM horn. I can't remember what the current draw is. It is loud.

http://www.amazon.com/Stebel-Nautilus-Universal-Motorcycles-Scooters/dp/B00CMX20H4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398355548&sr=8-1&keywords=nautilus+horn#productDetails
 

bcislander

'07 Mercedes-badged Dodge
Eh, Amigo.. me Deaf :lol:...need vibrations...:clapping:.. so where's the Horn?

Will the CanBus or CEL light up like a Xmas tree if I add a non OEM horn?

Cheers...
The horn is located between the headlight housing & the frame rail just below the plastic 'honeycomb' on the LHS of the van. You can feel it by reaching down from the top, or you can see it by crawling under the front of the van & looking up towards the front of the van.

I disconnected mine & added a Bad Boy Air Horn, using the relay supplied by Wolo to trigger the horn from the wire to the OEM horn. I tapped the Bad Boy power off the fused connection used by the compressor for the air suspension in my GWV. Much better sound & no CEL problems.

Edit: There is a description with pics that seems to indicate the OEM horn position was changed to just behind the grill for later model NCV3s, just search for Wolo.

I didn't mount mine just behind the grill as shown in that thread. I put mine inside the engine compartment just in front of the cabin air intake duct for a little more protection from the 'elements'. See pic.
 

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Mein Sprinter

Known member
Here is what you need, a Stebel Nautilus airhorn. I didn't replace the horn, but installed this in addition to the horn. Then I wired it so it is accessible from switches in the cab and also near the bed as a safety feature. So I don't know if the current draw of this would be too much for the OEM horn. I can't remember what the current draw is. It is loud.

http://www.amazon.com/Stebel-Nautilus-Universal-Motorcycles-Scooters/dp/B00CMX20H4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398355548&sr=8-1&keywords=nautilus+horn#productDetails
Aha...used to have this Stebel-Nautilus horn on my 1200GS/sidecar... the hearies tell me it even woke up the dead! I could feel the vibration when letting it off!





I guess this is what I am gonna get again...

cheers....
 

Cummings

Member
I copied this from some post (maybe 2 posts) found herein a while back:
.....
TIP: If you aren't crazy about the stock...meep meep horn, replace it with the Wolo or Steibel dual air horn.. I purchased the Wolo Big Boy 118 db horn because it happened to be sitting on the shelf of my motorcycle dealer. Took all of 15 minutes and it makes a huge difference. $49

Parts;

2 - 14 / 16 gauge female spade disconnectors (heat shrink variety preferred)
2 - 12" lengths of 14 gauge wire / one red and one black
2 - Posi Taps -- If you haven't used these to tap into existing connections, you are missing a very easy solution to tapping into wiring.
Shrink tubing if your connectors didn't come that way.
1- 14mm socket and stubby ratchet. No extension needed.

Good Luck.

Unplug the horn connection wires (green and brown) from the stock horn located on the driver front side of the vehicle, just next to the fog lights. Easy access under the front bumper. Press the tab on the connector and pull. Don't bother removing the stock horn. Just leave it there.

Take the two 12" lengths of wire and secure 1 spade disconnector on one side and one posi tap on the other.

Do Not attach to the horn yet. Reason is because you are going to have to use a turning motion to connect the posi tap to the stock wiring and it will twist the wires....

Now, use a dremel (or a drill if you can fit it in there) and make a hole, the size of the Wolo attachment bolt on any horizontal surface nearest the existing horn. When you get under there, it will be obvious where to do this.

Run the Wolo bolt, with a fender washer, through the top of the hole, affix the nut in the Wolo mounting bracket and tighten. I suggest you face the horn opening towards the BACK of the vehicle to avoid having rain water rush up and enter the horn.

Connect the Red wire, posi tap end, to the GREEN stock wire that you just unplugged.

Connect the Black wire, posi tap end, to the BROWN stock wire that you just unplugged. Don't cut off the stock connector. Don't need to and you may want to return it to stock some day.

The Posi tap works by sliding the wire into a slot in the tap and screwing it in so that a small needle in the posi tap pierces and wire and makes the connection.

http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html

Now, Put the red wire on the positive terminal of the Wolo and the black wire to the negative terminal of the Wolo.

Go inside,, turn on key and test the horn. It will startle you. If it doesn't work, go back under and switch the wires at the horn. If that doesn't work, check all the connections. It's very simple and you shouldn't have any issues.

A relay is included with the horn but you don't need it since you are tapping into the stock horn wires and button. The relay is used for motorcycles or where you wire to a battery and intend to use a separate horn button.

It is a little tricky to get your hands in that small work area. You will have to "feel" the bolt end to connect the nut. That took the longest time.

Good Luck

Glad the horn is working well for you, Larry, but it's my understanding that the stock horn only uses a 15 amp relay and the Wolo/Stebel horns require a 30 amp one. Supposedly you won't get the full volume of the horn unless you do so.
So, this morning I installed the Wolo ($35 at Harbor Freight). Using an L-bracket I fashioned from the flat bar off a U-bolt, I was able to install the horn using the exact same bolt and hole as the stock one, which I removed. I used 12 gauge wire and connectors, quick connects to tap into the green and brown 'trigger wires' from the stock horn, and the 30 amp relay that came with the Wolo. Took the positive feed directly from the battery, tapping right into the red cable going to the jumper tap (the red knob/spring thing enclosed in a black casing) and ran that to the 30a side of the relay. Both trigger leads went to the relay's trigger sides and the relay's output (marked with #87) went through a 30a fuse and then to the horn's + terminal. The wire from the horn's neg terminal went through the small rect. holes just to the right of the horn mount, in front of the DEF container, and past the right headlight and quick connected to one of the many brown ground wires that are harnessed and run to that grounding bolt on the side wall of the engine compartment. I'll post pics of my setup when I get the time. It's plenty loud, especially compared to the stock 'meep, meep'. You would think a vehicle that cost this much would have an awesome horn..
 

Cummings

Member
I actually took mine to the MB dealer and had them check it out because it sounds like a beep beep from a kids toy. They had just replaced one on their customer transport van but mine checked out as a wimpy AOK. We even went on the lot and beep beeped a couple new ones...just plain sorry. Mod above will be done.
 

Denny Arnold

New member
on my 2013 3500 Sprinter- the horn is (facing the vehicle) in the top right area behind the grille.

Grill comes of easily-I put a straight piece of aluminum stock( about 6 inches) on a horn-attached it to the Sprinter via an existing hole in the radiator core support, just under the existing horn. I used 2 plastic tap connectors to connect to the existing horn wiring- Both the new & Old now work.

I got a set or horns at harbor freight for $7.50- and I have one left- (and a not needed relay) So- I am done for less than $10
 

Hamish53!

Hamish
:idunno:

Are you asking for the OEM horn phyical location? Maybe have someone honk it while the hood is up with you looking?

As you mentioned, if it's like my T1N horn ear plugs will not be needed.

Harbor Freight has dual horn cheapies which I used to replace the failed horns on our 1995 Buick. They are loud enough for me.

vic
The NCV3 horns are NOT like your T1N, and sticking your head under the hood while honking won't actually help find it because they're often well hidden and not always in the same place as far as I can tell. On my 2014, the horn is behind the grille and just in front of the DEF tank filler to the left of the radiator when facing the vehicle.

Removing the grill is straightforward, but a bit tricky if you haven't done it before. Remove two torx screws along the top and 5-6 plastic rivet fasteners across the top edge (with a small screwdriver). Then pull the top of the grille away from the vehicle and reach down to the bottom, between the grille and the radiator, and push down on the long tab at one side or the other of the grille. If you do that while pulling forward on the grille, it should start to pop out and you can work your way across popping out those tabs until to the opposite side from where you started.

At that point, your stock horn should be easy to disconnect, replace, tenderize with a hammer, etc:bash:.

In terms of current draw, the stock Fiamm HK8 draws 4 amps.

And the Hella TE16 set I bought draws 2 x 6 amps, so 12 amps total which is 3x what the stock horn draws (supposedly).

Maybe someone here knows how much current the stock relay generates so it's clear whether it's necessary to add a separate relay or not?

Thanks!
 

hoosierrun

Active member
I just replaced my horn my 2016 Sprinter Serenity small motor home. Removing the grill is exactly as described in the previous post. I just used the el cheapo Harbor Freight set of 2 horns (under $10 with coupon) and now the Sprinter sounds like a regular US made car or van. I mounted the horns on the bottom of each side of the radiator using the one thru bolt (E -size head but 5/16 12 point socket works) that is down there at the bottom of each side. I bent the supplied brackets to an almost channel size arrangement and put adhesive foam strip material around the outside case of the horn to make sure they don't vibrate against the frame. I did not use the supplied relay since the Sprinter has its own and these don't look like high current draw horns. I pre-wired before mounting the horn because it is tight. I tapped into the OEM harness to the OEM horn. I even left the OEM horn in there but unplugged. The Harbor freight horns have no + or - on the terminals so it doesn't mater how you hook them up. Every wire connection or tap was soldered and covered with heat shrink or taped with electrical tape.
 

220629

Well-known member
...

Maybe someone here knows how much current the stock relay generates so it's clear whether it's necessary to add a separate relay or not?

Thanks!
:idunno:

The relay rating is not the limiting factor.

What amperage is the NCV3 horn fuse?

vic
 

Vincent van Goh

New member
Like the above, I found the stock horn wanting in umph. I've replaced mine with an old four horn Cadillac honker that combines F, A, D, C notes forming a musical cord not unlike a train. It gets the attention a horn should.
 

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