T1N Passenger owners, please chime in!

Panzer Kaptin

Haulin' Mass
Hoping someone may have this info at their fingertips...?

Does anyone know what the distance is between each row of seats in a passenger T1N?

Also, anyone know the distance between the back of the last seat row, and the back of the van itself, on a 140" T1N?

Thanks!
 

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
Geez, I don't know this off the top of my head, but I do know that I can fit a 24" deep, 24" tall tool bin behind the last seat. I have also put one of the bench seats behind it, to haul it so I would have it with me for people after camping my way to meet family in Las Vegas. It fits facing backwards, I forget if I took the headrests off or not.

I just went outside and measured. I only have one bench in right now, but we can extrapolate.
The forward pin to forward pin length is about 33".
The seat front is 7" past the forward pin.
I held a box where the next bench front would be, and there is about 10-11" between padded seat front and hard seat rear in front of it.

There is 8' behind the front bench seat to the rear doors, up to about 10" or so because the seat base angles back. I tried hauling 20 pieces of plywood and found that the top layers were pushed back by the seat frame and the rear doors wouldn't close; that's how I know!
 

Panzer Kaptin

Haulin' Mass
Thanks very much! I appreciate all the effort. Would you say there is approx 36" of floor space between the back of the first and front of the third row of seats, then?

I am trying to determine the best way to configure a 140" passenger for long-distance family + dogs haulin'. Big dogs (100-110lbs each, quantity 2). I was thinking about leaving the first bench in, and then removing the middle 2-seat bench, to make room for dog beds. I would prefer to leave the last bench in, to give them some sort of boundary - but want to make sure there is enough room behind the last bench for luggage and whatever other stuff is brought along.

We do travel pretty light, it's only 3 of us and the dogs.

Any tips would be great. The measurements are a great help, thank you again.
 

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
I think there would be 3' of space.

What I would do, move the rear seat up to the middle, create some sort of partition behind it so the dogs can't crawl under, and put in a combo box/table in front of that seat for luggage/gear storage. If you move your seats around like that, you'd be surprised how much room there is. (need to work on the floor to allow moving third mounting rail to middle seat position, I've done it)

People will chime in about allowing dogs to be loose in the vehicle, it really is unsafe for them if there's an accident, crates that are tied down are safest. The same goes for the storage box/table, it should be securely fastened to the floor so it doesn't become a projectile within the van in the event of an accident. If you decide on crates, you can also put them behind a seat in the middle position and put luggage/gear around them.
 

Panzer Kaptin

Haulin' Mass
Yep, we have hauled our big dog(s) all over the world, literally, for years. We are aware of how to do it properly. It's my first Sprinter, not my first rodeo. All I'm looking for is dimensions and maybe some "This is what I've done..."

Thanks for the info, I appreciate the effort.
 

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
My dogs pretty much free-range inside the van, and are 20-30lbs, so I can't provide much practical info other than the measurements.

Have you seen pics of my rear platform? I think it's in the write-ups. The platform pieces sit on ledgerboards a couple inches below the window. There is nearly 3' space underneath, and they are strong enough to support people on a mattress above. I did the panels in depths that allow use with rear seat in place, second but no rear seat, and a full 6' for a mattress with just the front bench in place. They can be stacked or put on the floor, or even attached to the side above the wheel well. I used 3/4" unistrut for the ledgers, and made several movable tie-down points with the unistrut mounts. I have a lower ledger toward the front that puts one of the panels at bench height, for a rear-facing table and bench, or an improptu seat for unexpected extra passengers. The panels also hide everything underneath, so you have a LITTLE more security and peace of mind.
 

cahaak

New member
I haul one dog a lot in our van - about 80 lbs. (7 kids and the wife too). Dogs need to be kenneled. You can leave the first two rows in and then easily get two kennels in the back along with all of your other gear. Our dog sleeps/ stays in the kennel on long trips for hours at a time. To be honest, if it is only three of you, I would just go with one bench seat in and leave the rest of the space for dogs and stuff. With all the seats in the dog kennel in the back, I have done 850 mile days, so you can make some time.

Chris
 

Panzer Kaptin

Haulin' Mass
My dogs pretty much free-range inside the van, and are 20-30lbs, so I can't provide much practical info other than the measurements.

Have you seen pics of my rear platform? I think it's in the write-ups. The platform pieces sit on ledgerboards a couple inches below the window. There is nearly 3' space underneath, and they are strong enough to support people on a mattress above. I did the panels in depths that allow use with rear seat in place, second but no rear seat, and a full 6' for a mattress with just the front bench in place. They can be stacked or put on the floor, or even attached to the side above the wheel well. I used 3/4" unistrut for the ledgers, and made several movable tie-down points with the unistrut mounts. I have a lower ledger toward the front that puts one of the panels at bench height, for a rear-facing table and bench, or an improptu seat for unexpected extra passengers. The panels also hide everything underneath, so you have a LITTLE more security and peace of mind.


Interesting. What did you attach the unistrut to? Did you brace it from behind as well? How did you attach it?

I will look for your write-up.
 

Panzer Kaptin

Haulin' Mass
I haul one dog a lot in our van - about 80 lbs. (7 kids and the wife too). Dogs need to be kenneled. You can leave the first two rows in and then easily get two kennels in the back along with all of your other gear. Our dog sleeps/ stays in the kennel on long trips for hours at a time. To be honest, if it is only three of you, I would just go with one bench seat in and leave the rest of the space for dogs and stuff. With all the seats in the dog kennel in the back, I have done 850 mile days, so you can make some time.

Chris

Now that's cool! 9 people and a big dog - I love it!

What are you using to secure your dog's kennel in the back? Did you add your own tie-down points, or using something on the van already?

My daughter's still in her booster, and I'd like to be able to keep her in the middle of the van (far from any impact point) so that pretty much takes up the whole 3-seat front row :)

With the dog kennel in back, what method are you using to secure your remaining stuff?

Also... how well does it tow that pop-up camper trailer you have?
 

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
I made 1/2" ply panels to cover the factory cloth/vinyl panels to protect them (I throw a variety of stuff in the back). They go from the floor to 3" above the window lip, and an upper piece can be attached to cover the windows to the headliner as well. These were originally attached to the structural frame under the plastic molding that surrounds the OEM panels with self tapping sheet metal screws. The removed result was tiny holes in the plastic. I later evolved to using rivnuts, rivets that are threaded to accept bolts (1/4x20). The unistrut is through-bolted to these panels. However, there is no reason that the unistrut can't be bolted directly to the structural panels. If doing that, it would be best to remove the factory panels and bolt using locknuts, then put panels back on. There are some other modular extruded aluminum pieces that people use like erector sets for making interior parts, but I already had the unistrut sitting around, and the fittings to make connectors, tiedown points, etc. can be bought at any Home Depot, along with the unistrut itself. You can paint it to match your exterior if you want. The 1.5" unistrut would stick out too far, and press into the seat sides on the driver side. I have no problem putting seats in any position with the 1/2" ply and 3/4" unistrut. I'll try to remember to take a pic of my messy van to show you.
 

cahaak

New member
The kennel that I have is pretty big, so when it is placed behind the rear seat, it fits in pretty snug and really can't move around much at all front to back and even up and down.(it is one of the plastic double clam shell types) It could move side to side a bit as it does not take up the entire back. Each kid has a duffle bag or backpack that fits under the seats and that is their "car stuff", or in the case of just traveling, that is their clothes and stuff. The bags fit under the seats well, so it leaves the van pretty orderly. Some other stuff can go in the back where the extra room is along the length of the kennel.

The pop up tows well, although it is wider than the van, so it does not tuck in as well as it could behind the van from an aerodynamic point of view. Weight wise, it is fine and we are around 3K lbs or so and it is a big 14' box. We will take a two week trip with it this summer and it will be fun.

Chris
 

Rod E

Big Red Hightop
My dogs pretty much free-range inside the van, and are 20-30lbs, so I can't provide much practical info other than the measurements.

Have you seen pics of my rear platform? I think it's in the write-ups. The platform pieces sit on ledgerboards a couple inches below the window. There is nearly 3' space underneath, and they are strong enough to support people on a mattress above. I did the panels in depths that allow use with rear seat in place, second but no rear seat, and a full 6' for a mattress with just the front bench in place. They can be stacked or put on the floor, or even attached to the side above the wheel well. I used 3/4" unistrut for the ledgers, and made several movable tie-down points with the unistrut mounts. I have a lower ledger toward the front that puts one of the panels at bench height, for a rear-facing table and bench, or an improptu seat for unexpected extra passengers. The panels also hide everything underneath, so you have a LITTLE more security and peace of mind.
I am considering installing a platform in my 10 passenger High top 2006. I would like to see the pictures of your ledger setup. I was unable to find them.
Thanks rod
 

mtnick

Member
We have a 2004 158"WB Passenger Van. Had it for about a year now. We have two kids and a small dog. For the past year we have mainly used it with only the front bench seat for the kids. I built some cabinets that go where the third row of seats would be and a bed behind the cabinet. Our bikes go under the bed.The problem we have found with using the front seat is room to move around the cabin. And the lack of floor space when not driving. It is difficult to get from the front seats to the back of the van when you have to squeeze around that front bench(and we are small people). So now I am in the process of converting us to the "standard" camper van layout. Kids will sit in the third row while driving. There will be a small galley cabinet behind the drivers seat. Bed and bikes behind third row. Bed has a leaf that flips over the bench to make it full length. One kid sleeps on the bench seat. Other kid will sleep on a hanging bed across the front seats. Good luck! -Nick
 

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
Next van, I'm putting in second row of swivel reclining captain's chairs. I may get an additional bench seat for the few times I need to transport more than 4 people.
 

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
Rod E, here's a bad pic of the panel system I put in. There is 1/2" ply from the floor to about 3" above window ledge, 34" from floor, making a nice channel to set things in. They are attached via 1/4-20 rivnuts. I have upper sections to cover the windows as well. The 3/4" unistrut is attached to the plywood only, with through bolts. I have two levels of unistrut, the tops at 16" and 28". The panels were made out of some extra construction stuff, so they aren't too precious. Horizontal 2x4 and 1/2" ply for the rear two, and 3/4 hardwood ply with 2x ripped down 1/4" so the panels are the same thickness. The lower ledger (unistrut) allows a seat height for unexpected overflow. Or, with a panel on the top ledger and another on the lower ledger, a rear facing bench and table. With all three panels in place on the top, there is room for gear underneath and a bed on top; or vice versa. The panels are only 1/16" shorter than the width, and can be placed by holding them diagonally and then resting the other end down. I did have to chamfer the upper edge on one side so they could be loaded. I wanted them to be a tight fit so they would not rattle or slide. The rear panel is not as deep as the other two, I made it to fit over the space in the back when the bench seats are installed. All three panels combined make a 6'+ platform. In this pic, I have one of the platforms mounted on the side with 2 legs, with the rear panel making an L shape. Unistrut L-brackets and screws hold it to the wall. I've found this setup most useful because I can load panel goods (like that sheetrock) and still walk into the back when empty. The red boxes in the back are plastic Ikea shoe bins that fold open, they are nearly the same depth as the wheel wells, but needed to be shimmed out a little to fit with the angled rear door trim and still sit on the floor.
 

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mtnick

Member
Here is a photo of my bed platform. I wanted my bed higher so I could fit bikes underneath. The plywood "walls" allow me to have the bed at mid window level. Now that I am neck deep in my conversion, I can see the advantage of starting with a "blank canvas" or a cargo van. But it would also be a ton of work to make nice finishes throughout, where as I have plastic, foam or glass everywhere... Good luck. -Nick
 

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